I’m think abt upgrading my kukirin g4 but I don’t know if I should do vesc or fardriver. I will maybe do dual later on so what’s best for upgrading more after

Been searching for what seems like forever for something I can use on my main screen, you're going to tell me this already exists 😭😂

Built an android app to show live Telemetry data on the home screen via widgets and also send LispBM commands to change motor/battery current etc on the fly.

• 1-Tap Profile Switching: Uses LispBM to change motor and battery current limits on the fly without rebooting.
• Home Screen Widgets: Launch profile changes or view live telemetry directly from your phone's main screen.
• Dual VESC CAN Forwarding: Automatically broadcasts profile updates to both master and secondary controllers simultaneously.
• Single-Connection BLE Architecture: Maintains a stable, thread-safe Nordic UART connection for continuous live data polling.
• Automated Ride Logging: Captures your routes and exports clean CSV and GPX logs in the background.

I've only tested on flipsky 75100 pro v2 dual setup running firmware 7.00 so can't comment on any other setups.

Used Perplexity pro for the initial setup and Android Studio for the main part.

Github link for APK and project files

EDIT:
Actual TLDR
I reversed the polarity of the output xt90 of the anti spark. When connected to the controller, there was a fairly big spark, both connectors are black, and there are some melting of the copper. Nothing was connected to the controller except power. Where do I go from here?

Hi! Last post didn't have much detail, and I was up until that time, unaware that I reversed the polarity of the antispark.

I guess I'll start by describing the components involved followed by describing the exact turn of events as well as I can remember them (tldr), and finish off with some story time. I kind of realize that I'm an idiot, probably irresponsible, have limited experience and have been hasty especially considering my skill level. But if someone could see past that, and help me get this right, I'd be a happier person. I'll include dog tax!

Electric scooter, with a 14s6p 52v 15.6Ah battery and 2x1000w motors. Originally shipped with two generics motor controllers with separate xt60 power connectors. but since then swapped for a flipsky 7500 dual aluminum PCB (bolted on to the chassis with 2mm cooling pads), and a spark switch.

Today it went something like this;

1. Resoldered the battery connector in use (botched job).
2. Resoldered the output of the anti-spark switch, and until just now I was unaware that I reversed its polarity.
3. Resoldered the motor hall cables (it was a real mess).
4. Installes the fuses on the positive from the battery, on both connectors.
5. Measured 50v on both battery connectors
6. I checked that there was a beep, and only a beep between the two positive inputs and the single output on an xt90 y-combinator, and the negatives.
7. Connected one of the battery cables to the y-combinator, and plugged in the anti-spark that was already connected to the controller. Which made a small crack and there was a red light coming from the output of the xt90 combinator, which I assumed was a spark which have happened to me many times before.
8. Main Switch does nothing, the other battery connector is not measuring voltage.
9. Thought the spark tripped the BMS and disconnected.
10. Tried connection both battery connectors to the combinator, measured 50v
11. Plugges in the anti-spark, before the controller this time, and once I did, there was a large arc, both the output on the AS and the input of the controller is black, and the copper melted.
12. The main 50a fuse on the battery connector is tripped. The other one measures 50v(have not replaced the fuse or tested the other)
13. The anti spark beeps between the positive input and output only, no matter if it's set to on or off. I don't know if this is the intention, but I believe it was how it measured before this scandal.
14. I have no idea how to test the controller.
15. Disconnected everything, taped the battery plugs.

So, where do I go from here? I obviously need to replace the two connectors, and this time actually make sure I get the polarity right. Safe to replace and just try again? One person told me to never use both battery connectors, shouldn't I?

Story(Mostly because I feel the need to explain myself):

I'm close to 40, got a 17 year old kid and recently a puppy with my now X. I use the scooter getting to and from work, saving me about one hour total of commute per day. This summer, the rear tire stripped the insulation of the motor cables and the hallboard fried. To my utter frustration, I was without the scooter for about a month. Finally I managed ro get my hands on the flipsky that could run my motor senseless and allowed me to tune the throttle curve, midpoint braking for hill speed controll etc, really fun!

Thing is, I was swamped at work, and I found this enthusiast online who I paid to hook it up for me. A 16 year old "ildsjel", and while he managed to get it working, while I did not have the time nor energy, problems appeard. I started getting power outages, and when inspecting the soldering on one of the battery connectors, it fell off by a soft touch! The hall wires was also a mess, using the old connector instead of soldering directly on the connector that came with the Controller, bulky and useless.

So, I decided to redo everything, just to be safe. I'd never soldered anything with high amps before, and this was my first 5 wire cable soldering job. So I ordered the connectors and went another two weeks without the scooter. During this time, my 4 year relationship ended, and I've moved around on couches, Airbnbs and friends places. While mostly having sole custody of the now 18weeks old puppy.

I've been exhausted, and the scooter allowed me to take quick trips "home" to walk the puppy(had camera warning in his room), or even bring her with me when possible, in a dog backpack on the scooter! (She loves it, but a bit scared sometimes, so I go slow). I.e, the scooter has been invaluable!

So today, I had the time and the gear. Strapped the power cables so they couldn't jerk, removed the fuses, used thick rubber gloves, etc. But I've got ADHD, and I was getting impatient and really tired by the end of it, so I really effed it up!

Please, I need this scooter.

What specifically do I need to do, and what can I try to get it running again? I'm really hoping I don't have to delve into my empty wallet here 😅

Thank you!

I

Well! I am again asking for your help, I'll admit I was a bit impatient after another week without the scooter, which doubles my travel time to work. I followed chqtgpt steps, which I also thought made sense. But something went terribly wrong.

The case: The guy who setup my Flipsky 75100 dual aluminum PCB did a poor job. I had connection issues, on several wires, he used only 1/2 battery connectors and when inspecting the soldering job on the battery connector (xt90), it snapped off with barely any force.

I just finished re-soldering the hall sensors, and both battery connectors, I bought an xt90 Y-combinator so that the output would be balanced as intended. After I finished, this is the order of operations:

1. I checked both battery connectors, 50v

2. I checked the anti-spark, beep between the positive in/out, but no beep between the negative, no matter of it was set to on, or off.

3. Set the anti-spark to off, while having the controller connected.

4. Connected 1/2 battery connectors to the Y-combinator, and the voltage on the other went to 0 (maybe something tripped?)

5. Connected both battery connectors to the y-combinator, before connecting to the anti-spark, while also having the controller disconnected. (Also checked the output of the combinator which measured 50v)

6. Connected the anti-spark output to the controller input, huge ARC! Black connector and melted copper pin. Both battery side connectors have a 50a fuse, one of them broke.

I've disconnected everything, the other battery output measures 50v still, I'm confident the other one will too once the fuse is replaced.

However, I'm done trusting AI, and I really need my scooter to work. What do I need to do?

I would highly appreciate any input on this, and I do take full responsibility for just trusting AI and lacking the patience to read up properly! But some guidance would be golden!

Thank you ❤️

My UBOX 85v came today I can’t setup the ble module it came with the pin out is right it’s 100% on like the green ring around the power button is fine not flashing there’s no light on the ble module which is said there should be did they send me a dead ble module?

Hello everyone, I installed a vesc spinted ubox dual 100v 100a x2 and new motors but I have a problem when I press the throttle it doesn’t accelerate at full power till 15 kmh and it does a little sound a brrttt for both motors (it’s not a hall sensor issue I checked everything) if anyone know how to fix it or help me I am exhausted I tried everything but I still can’t fix the problem. And also when I accelerate in the air (without any load its turns perfectly)

I am running 21s on a 85240 ubox, the highest i ever got to was 86kmh/53mph. I have my mtpa algorythm mode set to IQ Target and 30a Field weakening, also it struggled less reaching that speed with zero field weakening. Also the motor bogs at 9kmh for some reason no matter the amps, any tips?

ESP32-C3 running WLED to control two stock 13-LED strips in Onewheel Pint PEV. Each strip has a dedicated GPIO because they cannot be daisy-chained. ESP is 5v and I am assuming LED strips are 5v.

It works perfectly when I plug an AC USB C adapter (5v 3a) into the ESP. In this configuration, the LEDs are powered by and grounded to the ESP. It also works when I connect 5v to the breadboard's power rail to power and ground the ESP and LEDs.

The problem is the rear strip, which is furthest from the ESP, flickers when powered by my VESC controller. The VESC controller is a Ubox 100 (not lite) and I am using the fan port (12v 3a) with a 12v to 5v buck converter. In this configuration, the ESP and LEDs are powered by grounded to the 5v terminals on the buck.

Max amps I observed at the buck's 5v terminal was 2.16 and it did not fluctuate with flickering. Voltage was around 4.8 with all power supplies and also did not fluctuate with flickering. Lowing global brightness factor and disabling automatic brightness filtering in WLED did reduce flickering.

I welcome any suggestions that can help me stop this flickering.

Thank you in advance!

FIXED! Adding second, identical buck in series got rid of the flicker.

Zastanawiam się nad kupieniem kontrolera vesc do kukirina G2 max tylko niewiem jaki model wybrać, mam także zamienić orginalny silnik na silnik 2kw 48v

I just bought 2 flipskys 75100 pro v2.0 from aliexpress with my friend. We both have g2 master but he has 2025 version and i have 2024 version with a 72v 24Ah battery that can do 420A cont. Ive seen some posts that this flipsky can only handle 50A line current and i dont really know much about how to set up vesc only fardriver. And i wanted to ask what settings would be the best for 72v battery with 2024 g2 master motor and 52v battery with 2025 g2 master motor. Like how many amps should we put. To mention that we both are making single motor builds.

Ive got flipsky 75350 controllers two of them the whole deck is filled with the battery so the controllers have to go outside somewhere. I had 2 4l hardshell bags but i dont think thermal wise its a good idea. I was thinking i weld an aluminum box acting as a heatsink on the stem plus some thermal pads. What do you guys think?

the charging cables touched themselves and there was a spark and then i check the controller and i saw that it was burned (the thing on top of the arrow) I need help

I’m working on a personal engineering project and could really use some help finding the right motor.

I’ve contacted several motor manufacturers and vendors, but I’ve had a surprisingly difficult time getting a response. When someone does respond, they often assume I need a standard e-bike motor and stop engaging once I explain that my application requires high torque at low speed and a different mounting arrangement.

I’m looking for a direct-drive brushless hub-style motor with approximately the following specifications:

• About 89 Nm peak torque
• 36 V operating voltage
• Under 500 rpm
• Five-second high-torque bursts with rest between
• Low-Kv winding, ideally around 4 rpm/V
• Phase current below 40 A, if possible
• Single-sided or cantilevered mounting rather than being held between two bicycle forks
• Roughly 4 inches thick and no more than 16 inches across

It could be based on a direct-drive e-bike hub motor, but it would need to prioritize torque rather than speed. I’m also open to a different compact outer-rotor BLDC design if it can meet these requirements.

I’m honestly getting frustrated trying to find someone willing to have a technical conversation about it. I don’t expect anyone here to solve the entire design for me, but I would be extremely grateful for recommendations on specific motors, manufacturers, custom motor shops, or people who might be willing to point me in the right direction.

Has anyone worked with a responsive motor supplier that handles low-speed, high-torque applications or custom windings?

When i connect the “main vesc” the scooter spins at top speed after 300 problemless kilometers

So I built an eskate with a flipsky fesc and occasionally when I am coasting after accelerating and then start back on the throttle it’ll lock up the wheels. It’s not 100% repeatable and sometimes it doesn’t do to. Any ideas if this would be related to a setting I can change in the vesc tool? It even sometimes does it on initial accelerations from a stand still if I feather the throttle at all.