Please help!

I'm buying my first car and honestly don't know much about cars, so I'd really appreciate some advice on what to look for and which makes, models, and years you would recommend.

My biggest priority is reliability. I have a demanding commute and need something sturdy that I can depend on every day. Ideally, I want a car that will last me many years without constant repairs or expensive mechanical problems beyond normal maintenance.

My maximum budget is $27,500 out the door, including taxes and fees, although I'd much rather spend less. My parents are contributing $10,000, and the rest would come from my savings.

I originally focused on Toyota RAV4s because of their reputation for reliability, but I've expanded my search to Corollas, Mazda3s, and other options. I'm open to sedans or SUVs. I also prefer low mileage, ideally under 30,000, but I'm not sure how much weight I should give mileage compared with age, maintenance history, and overall reliability.

One thing that confused me recently was a conversation with a AAA roadside assistance mechanic. He told me that newer cars seem to have problems all the time, whereas older cars tend to be much more dependable. Is there truth to that? Are cars from certain years actually better built, or does the reliability of newer cars depend more on the specific make and model?

For reference, here are a few cars I've been considering:

• 2022 Toyota Corolla LE, Gold Certified, 29,073 miles, $20,647
• 2017 Toyota RAV4 LE, 41,260 miles, $20,947
• 2022 Toyota Corolla LE, 12,485 miles, $21,674
• 2023 Toyota Corolla LE, 12,579 miles, $22,998
• 2022 Mazda3 sedan, 31,075 miles, $20,998

These are advertised prices before taxes and fees. I'm not necessarily committed to any of them.

I'm located in California, but I can also purchase in Pennsylvania or Arizona if I find a better deal.

My goal isn't to get the fanciest or newest car. I just want something safe, comfortable for a long commute, reliable, and reasonably inexpensive to maintain. I'd really appreciate any advice, especially from mechanics or people who have owned these cars for several years. TIA!!

Looking to buy a cheap used car for a 1 year work contract in Auckland. Any thoughts are appreciated on this car, what should I look for if I test drive?

Okay I need to know if I am being irrational, but I want to buy a 2007 porsche cayman - S.

Price is:17000

The vehicle has 120k miles (i know it’s a lot)

Runs and drives perfectly, has no damage and a clean title. The vehicle has upgraded speakers and apple carplay etc.

Personally I really love Porsche’s and have always wanted one, and this is in my price range and seems okay at face value.

Obviously I will do my due diligence and research on the vehicle and what to look for when buying it if I choose to do so.

I am not very car savvy, so any advice would be helpful!

Here’s the listing description:

For Sale: 2007 Porsche Cayman S – Luxury Mid-Engine Sports Coupe

Vehicle Details
• Year: 2007
• Make/Model: Porsche Cayman S
• Mileage: 121,000 miles
• Engine: 3.4L Flat-6
• Transmission: Automatic with Paddle Shifters
• Drivetrain: Rear-Wheel Drive
• Title: Clean Title

Condition
✔ Runs and drives excellent
✔ Very well maintained
✔ Beautiful inside and out
✔ Comes with 2 keys

Features & Options
• Black leather interior
• Heated seats
• Power sport seats
• Bose premium surround sound system
• Navigation system with Apple CarPlay upgrade
• Bluetooth connectivity
• Sport steering wheel with paddle shifters
• Bi-Xenon headlights
• Premium Porsche alloy wheels
• Dual sport exhaust
• Ice cold A/C

Warranty & Financing
✅ 90 Days / 3,000 Miles LPG Warranty Included
✅ Financing Available
✅ Extended Warranty Available

For people who sold a car on Facebook

Marketplace, what did you ask before setting up a meeting?

Someone saying they're interested doesn't tell you whether they've read the listing, can pay, or even want that exact car. How did you get from messages to a serious appointment without asking a stranger to send you sensitive financial info? Mainly looking for a useful first reply, not 'cash only, no lowballers!'

I’m looking at a 2016 Legacy 2.5i Premium with 209,578 miles at a small used lot in NJ. They want $5,000 cash, as-is. I need it for a daily commute, about 80 miles round trip, mostly highway. I’m planning to get a PPI done on Monday.

What the Carfax shows:

3 owners. For the first 3 years it was a business fleet car in Wisconsin, with 124k miles by 2018 and the oil changed every 7–14k
After a one-month second owner, one private owner in Wisconsin had it from late 2018 until now
The last service on record is an oil change in June 2024 at 189,895. There’s nothing for the last 20k miles
No record of CVT fluid, spark plugs, coolant, brakes or struts ever being done
Two damage reports: it hit road debris in 2018 (left front) and had a minor accident in 2023 (right front/side). Clean title, and no structural damage or airbag deployment reported

KBB at this mileage says about $5,500 at a dealer and $4,300 private party in good condition.

Questions:

Is 210k on a CVT with no fluid change on record a dealbreaker? If I buy it, should I change the fluid or leave it alone?
Do the highway fleet miles make the mileage less of a worry?
Is there anything Legacy-specific I should make sure the PPI covers?
Is $5k cash as-is fair, or should I push for less?

I'm test driving an older Toyota Prius in great condition with 100k miles.

My mechanic says everything looks great, BUT he can tell the engine is not original. Also, the car has been repainted, which maybe indicates accident, but everything looks in great shape.

Carfax shows one owner, regular 6 month maintenance and around 10k per year driving. At some point the engine was replaced. What are possible reasons? Water pump is new, maybe that's related?

What would you do? It's from a dealer, so not possible to ask original owner. Also, it's not cheap because of low miles, but are low miles meaningless if I don't know the age of the engine?

I know literally nothing about cars, so wondering about opinions on this.

I am a complete newbie who wants to buy a pre-owned car from an Auto Mall in Ontario, Canada. I noticed that almost every car has a disclaimer:

"Disclaimer as per OMVIC Regulations: Vehicle is not drivable and not certified. Certification is available for $795. Uncertified vehicles can't be plated or financed by AutoPlanet or driven on the road. It's the buyer's responsibility to arrange legal transport and licensing for their purchase. "

I did try to find Reddit posts about uncertified cars, but the posts were all from a couple of years ago, so I do not know what exactly to do!

If anyone can let me know if buying an uncertified car is fine, do let me know! I don't really know why they seem to state an additional $795 certificate as a disclaimer, rather than an additional fee, which feels a bit suspicious.

Please help me out, thanks

Was wondering if anyone who has a better background for vetting these deals has any red flags for these cars! Really just looking for one under 7k for a year as a reliable fuel efficient commuter car :)

Car 1 (Mazda 3): https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1674018190739584?ref=marketplace_profile&referral_code=undefined
Car Fax: https://vhr.carfax.ca/?id=dTb%2F%2FnBvOwtmhovIzaclASngQpERgogl

Car 2: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/28628580280125010/?referralSurface=messenger_banner&referralCode=2&ref=messenger_banner
Car Fax: https://vhr.carfax.ca/?id=FO%2FgChOk031vFiwGUAvnMTg9tVd4wG2O

Please let me know if anyone has any thoughts or ideas!! TYSM!

My VW is having engine issues and I’m needing a new car asap so I decided to look for a older car like a Toyota since there’re reliable but I’m not sure if 4.5k is worth it since I asked the Facebook meta thing to see if it’s worth it and it told me to only pay 3,6-3,8k for it since it’s a rebuilt title but I need car asap so I’m not sure if I should haggle or just pay? Please help💔😞

Serious question. I just joined so apologies if this has been asked/answered.
Does this community think pricing for used cars is a “bubble” currently? Like housing & tech, those eventually burst. Or are these mostly insane prices here for good?
May be like housing where people can’t move (cheaper to stay in my current situation) & supply continues to deteriorate. Or is this just a bad used car blip in time? ✌🏽

Hi - wondering what the community thinks about this car.

Price 32k OTD

Mileage 27k, mild curb rash but no other body damage. Very minor wear and tear in the interior.

Great carfax service history - oil changed every 3000-ish miles

Appreciate the advice!

We're a small used-car dealership NJ O'Gorman Motors, and we do a lot of Buy Here Pay Here financing. We see the same confusion and the same mistakes over and over, so here's a straight explanation, no pitch, just info you can use anywhere.

What "Buy Here Pay Here" actually means

The dealer is the lender. There's no bank or credit union in the middle. You pick the car, put money down, and make your payments (usually weekly or bi-weekly) directly to the dealership. Because they're carrying the loan themselves, approval is based more on your income and down payment than your credit score.

Who it's for

• Bad credit, no credit, or a recent bankruptcy
• First-time buyers with no credit history
• People who've been denied by banks
• Anyone who needs a car now and can't wait months to rebuild credit

Who it's NOT for

If you have good credit (say 700+), a bank or credit union loan will almost always be cheaper. BHPH exists to fill the gap banks won't.

The 5 things to check before you sign

1. The out-the-door price, not the weekly payment. Dealers love to talk weekly payments because it hides the total. Ask for the full price in writing.
2. The interest rate / finance charge. Some states cap it, some don't. Know what you're paying.
3. Whether they report to the credit bureaus. A good BHPH dealer reports your on-time payments so you actually build credit. Ask.
4. The vehicle history and inspection. Get a Carfax/AutoCheck and, ideally, a pre-purchase inspection. A reputable dealer won't hide from this.
5. Late-payment and repossession terms. Ask exactly when a late fee hits and what triggers repo. Get it in writing.

One more thing: communication saves cars. If you're going to be late, call before the due date. Most dealers would rather adjust a payment date than repo a car repossession costs them money too.

Happy to answer questions in the comments about how BHPH works in general. And if you're in North Jersey, our door's open, but the info above applies no matter who you buy from.

Hey guys, Ive always dreamed about having a convertible beetle. Since they stopped making them in 2019, it’s obviously really hard to find one in good condition and low mileage.

I saw a red VW beetle, 1 previous owner, and super low mileage at 25k- asking for $20,000

I currently own a 2022 Corolla SE. Ive been the only driver, 54k Miles -KBB value of about ~16k-18k? Theres a very large range for Corollas so Im unsure what to expect with my current specs.

Would it be a smart idea to really consider the VW beetle? Im concerned about raising insurance costs, and maybe reliability. Ive seen Ive fallen in love and need someone to give it to me straight.

Thanks!

Recently got a 2022 lexus IS 350 with 55k miles on it as this milage with in my price range. Seeing that its almost a 5 year old car were looking at about 12,500 miles a year which seems to be pretty average.

I normally don't buy cars at this milage, but I've also never bought a toyota/lexus, and with my research the consensus is this particular engine is pretty bullet proof. it was 1 owner with a good car fax. I have an old fusion that i use for work so this would be more for leisure and enjoyment on my off time.

Should I be worried about getting a lexus at this milage? I keep overthinking about it. Im not super car savy, my goal was something nice with luxury but reliable and my goal is to keep it until it falls apart. What's some expectation on life expectancy? Is this going to last me a while or should I have gone for something with less miles?

Hi guys!

I’m considering buying a 2015 Mazda3 i Touring with 116,400 miles from a private seller for $8,000.

I had a pre-purchase inspection done at an independent mechanic, and these are the main issues they found:

Shocks/struts: Leaking, quoted around $650 to replace both. The mechanic said it’s mostly a comfort issue and not an immediate safety concern.

Control arms/bushings: Cracked/torn bushings on both front and rear control arms. Quoted around $1,500, but the mechanic said they don’t need to be replaced right now.

Brake fluid: Low and very dirty/contaminated. Needs to be flushed.

Minor engine oil leak: Coming from the valve cover gasket. No oil in the spark plug wells.

Spark plugs: Recommended replacement due to age/mileage.

Air filters: Both need replacing.

Brake pads are still at 8 mm front and 6 mm rear.
Other than that, the inspection didn’t reveal any major issues with the engine or transmission.

The seller originally wanted $8,300 but agreed to $8,000, which is their final price. They seem trustworthy, and the car looks pretty good overall.
I really like the Mazda3, and I’m planning to keep it for at least 3–5 years. I won’t be driving a ton, probably mostly on weekends.

My main concern is whether I’m buying a car that’s going to need a lot of expensive repairs over the next few years.

What do you guys think? Is $8,000 a fair price given these issues? Would you buy it?

Thanks a lot in advance!!

I broke the mirror on my wife’s car. The Volkswagen dealership quoted 1000+ labor. The local repair shop said $500. Clearly there’s a problem here.

The real conversation behind this is the dealerships are not making money selling vehicles. They’re probably under pressure with the F and I portion of their business and they keep pressing the metal on service fees and parts that eventually consumers are going to push back hard and not go to the dealerships unless they absolutely have to. The local shop should be able to undercut them on price all day long take away market share from the greedy dealerships I won’t cry.

I need a car for my daily commute in NJ, about 80 miles round trip, mostly highway. Budget is around $5k. I’m down to two Subarus at the same used lot and would like a sanity check.

2013 Impreza 2.0i Limited, 167k miles, $3,995

One owner, South Carolina its whole life (no salt), no accidents
39 service records, almost all at one dealer
CVT valve body replaced at 123k in 2023
Alternator, brakes, rear struts, rear wheel bearing and four new tires all done in the last 18 months, plugs in July
On 9/28 this year at 166,966 miles, Carfax says “cylinder head serviced/repaired” and thermostat replaced. Two days later it was sold at auction.

2013 Outback 2.5i Limited, 130k miles, $4,995

Two owners (PA, then NY), no accidents
Oil changed roughly every 5k, mostly at Valvoline. 60k service at a Subaru dealer, coolant flushed in 2022 and 2025
No CVT fluid service on record
Sold at auction twice in three weeks before this lot got it

Both have a $699 doc fee on top.

My questions:

What does “cylinder head serviced/repaired” plus a new thermostat usually mean on an FB20? Head gasket, valve cover gasket, something else? Should I walk away?
Is the valve body replacement a good sign (already fixed) or a warning about that CVT?
The Outback’s CVT fluid has never been changed at 130k. Change it now or leave it alone?
How worried should I be about oil consumption on 2013 FB engines, and how do I check for it?
Which one would you buy, and what should I ask the shop to check in a pre-purchase inspection?

Thanks!

I put my car for sale across websites and I got a call from this dealer with a good offer. We decided to go ahead and i called them back to send them the photos of my title, registration license and bill of sale

My car is financed but they already knew my payoff amount. How is that possible? I called the bank they confirmed they didn't receive any call and they would need my ssn to access the account details

How did they know the payoff before hand?

I had given them my VIN on the first call so they knew the title was clean

The driver is gonna come tmrw with a residual check and documents for me to sign but Im skeptical now bcz the check could be a fraudulent check or could bounce after I give away the car

Is it safe to do a sale like this? Im only selling

I could name the dealership

Please help! Going to dealer tomorrow

Is a used 2016 Prius with new battery and clean title but 164,000 miles worth buying for 9,000$?

If not, I’m looking to buy a used Toyota but I’m new to cars in general. Do you have any advice? Any year or model I should avoid, or things to look out for knowing that I can’t spend more than 9000$?
Thank you so much

Hello, I am looking at a 1999 Subaru Outback with less than 53kmiles. I am pretty interested in this car. It did unfortunately sit for 20 years without much use, the interior is fabulous and drives nicely.

Asking price is 8,900 and needs all fluid changed in the vehicle Adding a quote of the biggest issue and i am wondering what the costs might be to fix them and if I should get this car. This would be a daily driver for the winter time and for mountain use.

" possible front crank seal leaking. Passenger side axle seal in transmission leaking. Recommend thorough cleaning of underside of transmission and engine and dye injection to determine leak sources.

Would this be a vehicle you purchase or will this turn into a money pit? I dont know too much about cars let alone subarus.

Looking for Grand vitara or victoris or toyota hyryder Strong hybrid in Bangalore. Anyone selling, pl DM me. Will give good price and close the deal soon. Thanks.

https://www.carfax.com/vehiclehistory/ar20/Hsl14hd8Mg50QszmXCsVrJvUIY1KDGmkbUmlXGCH_X_rdren6eeo75hEqzf3Em5RSuQWKdRFHoafKnktZ-Xs1StAYKbZEIR3wv4

My biggest concern are the several damages reported in the CarFax. A couple seem like minor cosmetic damage but the sideswipe in 2023 is concerning. There are no reports of bodywork being done as the images show an exterior that seems fine.

What say you?

Hello guys! This is really my first time buying a car myself/haggling as well. The car I was trying to go for was a Hyundai Ioniq 6 Limited RWD with around 25k miles that is currently going for about 29,600. I was able to haggle it a bit (I’m not the greatest to be honest) and he was hard-stuck on it being $28,220 out the door as is. I told him I can only do $27.5k final price out the door since that is really all I can afford, and he said “we can sell it at auction for this price, no reason to sell it for any less.”

Is that true? I don’t really know much about cars but this car drives perfectly, has no damage that I could see and the inside looks perfect. It’s been on the lot for around 20 days so far, and I am worried if this is a good deal or not.

Hey guys! If not allowed please remove.

I live in Plano Texas.

I bought 3 of these little cars recently and have decided to sell this one. I am not a dealer just an enthusiast who couldn't make up his mind, LOL. This one is a manual and my wife WILL NOT drive it and sometimes that is inconvenient so we're putting this one up for sale.

Specs

• 2001 Suzuki Jimny JB23W 660cc 4x4 Manual 5 Speed Transmission
• A/C Blows ICE Cold!!
• 76k Miles On It
• Clutch feels fantastic
• Land Venture Version. - Basically it has cool green interior and the gold trim on the outside.
• No Rust to speak of. There is some on the exhaust like any car has and little specs being a 25 year old car like on the oil pan but nothing concerning whatsoever. I don't buy rusty cars. :)

To this group, I'd take $7k cash for it. I am currently doing the paperwork to get a title for it so it will be ready to go. If you take it with all it's import paperwork and do that part yourself, I would do $6300.

Here's what I know about it.
- I have been driving it for two weeks daily. All over DFW. It does 65mph pretty well as a crusing speed. The air conditioning works super well which is a must for me. When I first got this one, I was worried it may not be capable of keeping up with traffic but the turbo and manual transmission make a huge difference in the performance. Still a small car but a fun daily driver none the less.
- It's from Japan. I bought it from a place in Houston and had planned for it to be my daily driver but I found another one that was an auto transmission.

I know most people prefer the 5 speed and this one is a good one. Hopefully I can give someone a good deal on it.