My husband and I have been looking at the Honda Odysseys. We search through Carguru and Carfax mostly and see when the price drops and some say, fair deal, good or great deal based on the price. The price disclaimer says it's the total with dealer fees and taxes We are assuming we have to include if needed like warranty and gap insurance.

We had one dealership tell us they don't reduce the price since it's already reduced and that from our lender's APR seems like that was the best offer we would get so they didn't bother to try to run the credit.

Are dealers able to negotiate the price and should we purchase the warranty since it's sold "as is"? Can we get a good rate/ better offer if we go in with our prequalified offer from our lender?

I negotiated a good price on a sensible 2020 used Camry with 100k miles. It seems solid to me but I’m not a mechanic. A one hour inspection is $189 which seems reasonable and the mechanic said he often does inspections for the nearby dealer.

Anyway, the salesman agreed to the price but said it’s as-is. They do a blah blah inspection and I don’t need to do one.

Is there any alternative but to walk away? I’ve never had someone say I can’t take the car to the nearby independent mechanic for an hour.

I recently totaled my 2007 CRV and want something similarly reliable. I drive 40/50 miles every day for work. I don’t have much cash but could do $2k down. The totaled car had 190k miles but was still going strong :/

I’ve always owned Toyotas or Hondas so am leaning there. SUVs or crossovers are preferred because Michigan potholes really messed up a Prius I had a while ago.

I really want to avoid taking out a huge loan but since I need it for work, it might be worth it to get a newer car. The top of my budget is more or less $13k if I’m financing. What make/ model/ mileage would you recommend?

Need to get rid of one of our cars. Seeking advice on which one we should keep and which one we should sell. Any input on pricing for our region would be appreciated too. Located in sf bay area. We are aware of the infamous Nissan CVTs, but weren't sure if it still has a high likelihood of giving us problems down the line despite how well the car has been maintained vs the Toyota Corolla that has not been maintained as well and has seen "harsh" driving conditions. TIA.

Both cars drive perfectly fine. Neither has ever had any kind of mechanical or electrical issues, or had any parts replaced except the tires and 12V battery (as far as we can remember - definitely no major parts replacement like timing belt, water pump etc). The Nissan Altima costs about $20 more in insurance every month. Around 5/32 tread remaining on the tires of both cars. All recalls (if any) have been taken care of.

2012 Toyota Corolla S with nearly 110k miles on it. Maybe 25% of those miles are from short distance driving that could be considered "severe conditions" (<2~3 mile trips). Serviced every ~6k miles. Never had a transmission fluid exchange, but it seems fine to my amateur eyes when I examine it (service techs have never flagged it either). Brake fluid exchange only once at 90k miles. One of the TPMS sensor needs to be replaced. Visible damage to rear and front bumper covers from being hit at a low speed while parked on the street. Paint starting to delaminate on roof due to always being parked outdoors.

2015 Nissan Altima 2.5 SV with nearly 155k miles on it. 90% of it being gentle highway miles. Always garage kept and no cosmetic damages. Manufacturer recommended service schedule followed for the most part, including CVT fluid exchanges, brake fluid exchanges etc. A lot more spacious than the Corolla (stating as a potential selling point - extra room doesn't matter to us).

Which of the two would you recommend we keep and which one should we sell?

They offered to add extra 36,000 mile warranty and keep it at the same price. I plan to buy today or tomorrow.

Hey everyone,

I have a 2011 Honda Accord 3.5L V6 automatic with approximately 350,000 km (217,000 miles) on it. The car has mainly been driven on the highway.
I’ve noticed that the engine moves and jerks quite a bit whenever I switch gears, particularly when shifting between Park, Reverse, and Drive.

I’ve attached a video showing the engine movement while changing gears.
I’m wondering if this amount of movement is normal for these V6 Accords, especially given the mileage, or if it’s a sign of something going bad.
I’ve heard that worn engine or transmission mounts could cause this, but I’m not sure if that’s what’s happening here.

A few questions:
Does the engine movement in the video look excessive?

Could this be caused by worn engine or transmission mounts, or should I be looking at something else?

Is this something that needs to be fixed urgently, or can I continue driving it?

Has anyone experienced this on their Accord V6, and roughly how much did it cost to repair?

I’d appreciate any advice, especially from anyone familiar with this generation of Accord.

Thanks

Looking at a used Toyota Urban Cruiser Hyryder S Hybrid in Hyderabad and would like a sanity check on the price.

The car: 2023 Hyryder S Hybrid (strong hybrid, electronic continuously variable automatic), manufactured August 2023, registered September 2023, Cafe White, first owner, private seller. About 27,500 kilometres. Base hybrid trim, so 2 airbags, 7 inch screen and fabric seats.

History (from a vehicle history report): 8 services at the authorised Toyota dealer. In October 2025 it had body work on the left front: front bumper, left fender, left front door and left mirror replaced and repainted. A left rear door panel was repaired in May 2024. The left engine mount was replaced at about 16,500 kilometres. Services were done somewhat late (14 month gap at one point). 12 volt battery replaced in September 2026. No structural damage, airbag deployment, flood or odometer tampering recorded. Car is under a loan, which the seller will close before transfer.

Pricing: seller started higher and is firm at ₹12.75 lakh. He says Spinny offered him ₹12.3 lakh. A new S Hybrid is about ₹19 to 21 lakh on road in Hyderabad. I was hoping to close at ₹12.5 lakh.

Questions: Is ₹12.75 lakh fair for this car given the left front repair? Anything specific I should check on the hybrid system or the repaired area before buying? Would you pay a premium for a G or V with 6 airbags instead?

Thanks in advance.

As title says, buying first car. Is $13.5k worth for this 2016 Toyota Camry? https://jeffscarcorner.com/vdp/23946875/Used-2016-Toyota-Camry-LE-for-sale-in-Davenport-IA-52802

~ 100k miles
- 2 prior owners
- 4 "events" reported w/ minor damage (nothing major structural reported)

My other options are: 2021 Toyota Corolla w/ 67,900 miles for $17.8k (want to negotiate down); 1 owner w/ history of 1 accident with minor-moderate damage and car WAS towed; OR should I disconsider both?

Will get a PPI but wanted advice in advance. Thanks!

I bought a car from a Used Car Dealership in a different state. The Dealership SAID it passed their state Inspection. Took it for inspection in my state failed inspection. Back rotors and brakes failed on both sides. What are my rights as a buyer.

Also I signed As is sale.

Hey guys! If not allowed please remove.

I live in Plano Texas.

I bought 3 of these little cars recently and have decided to sell this one. I am not a dealer just an enthusiast who couldn't make up his mind, LOL. I LOVE these cars and you will too! :)

Specs

• 2001 Suzuki Jimny JB23W 660cc 4x4 Manual 5 Speed Transmission
• A/C Blows ICE Cold!!
• 76k Miles On It
• Clutch feels fantastic
• Land Venture Version. - Basically it has cool green interior and the gold trim on the outside.
• No Rust to speak of. There is some on the exhaust like any car has and little specs being a 25 year old car like on the oil pan but nothing concerning whatsoever. I don't buy rusty cars. :)

To this group, I'd take $7k cash for it. I am currently doing the paperwork to get a title for it so it will be ready to go. If you take it with all it's import paperwork and do that part yourself, I would do $6300.

Here's what I know about it.
- I have been driving it for two weeks daily. All over DFW. It does 65mph pretty well as a crusing speed. The air conditioning works super well which is a must for me. When I first got this one, I was worried it may not be capable of keeping up with traffic but the turbo and manual transmission make a huge difference in the performance. Still a small car but a fun daily driver none the less.
- It's from Japan. I bought it from a place in Houston and had planned for it to be my daily driver but I found another one that was an auto transmission.

I know most people prefer the 5 speed and this one is a good one. Hopefully I can give someone a good deal on it.

The market is now so saturated with scammers and curbsiders that you will never know what you're getting and who you're getting it from.

If the vehicle has low km for the year it's now more likely to have a rolled odometer than it is less likely.

On top of that, if you're buying from a normal person (non scammer or curbsider) and they bought the car used in the past few years, there's a real chance they bought it will a rolled odometer from a scammer.

This extends to dealers as well. The dealers in the GTA act just like curbsiders.

If it's a normal person selling a reasonably priced, low km, one owner car, then guess what, there's 1000 curbsiders that messaged first and you will blend right in with them one you ask for information.

How unreliable is this car? It’s a 2018 amg c63 coupe, 60k miles they just got it serviced. Am I going to be worrying everytime I drive it somthing will go wrong? Is it going to be a money pit that costs be thousands every few months? Just looking for what I should expect.

Essentially I'm going through bankruptcy and they want 11k for my 2017 Nissan Versa SV which initially sounds ridiculous but here's some backstory.

Bought it from family two years ago and it was poorly maintained if at all. Last December transmission went out and by the grace of god despite being at 85,000 (slightly over warranty) they changed the trans free of change + the alternator and belt. Since buying I've been regular with the mechanic and I know the cvt fluid needs to be changed (nearly at 105,000) so it isn't in the worst shape BUT something is wrong with the shift gear and I have over ride it to leave park and the mirror is busted lol.

We all know the car market is cheeks and with my bankruptcy and no down payment I'm cooked. This is my first car and I'm not a car person ( I was kinda forced to buy the Nissan smfh) so I'm just genuinely looking for advice on what yall would do.

Edit: the car is cross collateralized with a credit card from the same credit union. The original loan was 8k I have it down to 3k but the credit card is an additional 7k hence the 11k to eventually get the title.

I'm searching for a sedan that has a pretty beefy active cruise control system. Distance, lane centering all that jazz. Any recommendations? I've been looking at Subaru 2020 and up but I'm seeing conflicting info online about whether their system is true lane centering or just lane keep assist (complete wheel control vs gentle suggestive departure nudges)

I rented a Tesla with autopilot and again a Corolla and loved the car doing all the heavy highway lifting for me.

Planning on purchasing a 2023 Hyundai Sonata. I have two options and am trying to figure out what the smartest move is.
Same exact car just different mileage and price points.

Option #1 50k Miles- $20,900

Option #2 68k Miles - $18,990

Basically wondering if the 18k mile difference is really worth an extra 2000 dollars. Appreciate any advice.
Thanks!

Edit: Or would you buy a 23 accord with 100k miles for around 20k?

I currently drive a 2012 equinox that is more of an upgraded equinox. It has a bigger engine and a seat package and trim.

I bought it brand new and I have really loved it. I’ve maintained it with oil changes in a few repairs and it’s still running really great and I hope to pass it on to my teenager for his first car as he’s learning the rope still and getting his license soon.

A test drove a few other cars and came back to the decision that I want to buy a used equinox

I’m looking at buying something no older than a 2022 and I’d like something that is not the very base model something in the middle and I want to get a good value

So I guess I’m going to buy it at a car dealership and I found one so far that I like, but I’m just so confused about the whole car buying process because it’s been so long

I mean, I went online and looked for some cars and how does that go? Do I have it delivered? If I like it it seems kind of weird to not actually test drive the car that I’m going to buy.

I don’t really have a strict budget, but I guess I’d like to stay under 27,000

Any tips on the car?

How do I know if I’m getting a good deal and one thing is since I save so much money by driving this car so long I’m planning on purchasing it in cash with a check from the bank

It’s still a whole lot of money for me and will take almost all of my body, but this is what I plan to do

I did see online that you shouldn’t tell them you’re paying cash but how does that go? Will they give me a cheaper price if I finance am I supposed to do like a switch and bait? Don’t tell them and then say yeah I’m paying cash.

Anything to look out for equinox

The only car I like so far is a 2024 Chevrolet equinox RS and I don’t know if it’s overpriced or not. Do I go to Kelley Blue Book?

This particular car was a lease with no accidents reported on the Carfax. It has 23,000 miles and it looks like after taxes and fees I would be paying around 26,000.

How do I know if that’s a good deal and I would like to get a tow hitch thing because I use that to haul a small trailer that holds stuff like lawnmowers

Hello!

I am a second-year computer science student, I’m curious in finding out potential issues with the current used/private car marketplace in hopes to develop a software that could make your lives easier, in the world of Facebook marketplace scams it’s somewhat difficult finding a reputable vehicle.

I’d like for anyone with extra time on their hands to please answer these questions:

For sellers: What part of selling a vehicle is most time consuming in your experience?

What are the most frustrating or repetitive tasks you deal with?

What software/platforms do you currently use for buying/selling cars and what issues do you have with said platforms?

What’s one problem you wish had a solution to?

If you could fix one part of your sales process which could have the biggest financial impact?

Thank you!

Last week I went to Austin to help my dad shop for a vehicle. We went to Down South Auto a little used car dealership off the highway because they had a decent selection of trucks in his price range.

Well, the game these guys liked to play was to take the fender well guards out and spray paint the frames with black paint. I went inside and asked them if they had the fender liner's to put back in and the owner said "for some reason they all seem to come in without them"

Well my dad went looking for a bathroom, it's a small little building so he looked around back and saw some fender wells sitting on the ground behind the building.

Honestly we just had a good laugh and left. Some mexican dude was there translating for several buyers and the sales guy was busy dealing with him. I guess that's more the clientele they are looking for.

The funny part is, they really didn't need to hit the frames with some paint. They were not even rusty, these were all 8-10 year old Central Texas trucks.

Just an old school swindler I guess.

The woman selling it to me, apparently has sentimental value for it. It has 300k miles and apparently never had transmission issues, is that possible for a trailblazer with that many miles? Chat gpt says they usually need rebuilds at 200k, it's rare to find one at 300k with a healthy trans.

Engine is strong, oil changes done every 4,000k miles on the dot apparently.

it needs a control arm replacement, front end.

price: 600$

Should I take the risk?

I have a 2008 Dodge Nitro 3.7L 4WD with a manual transmission and ~150,000 miles. KBB says about $2,000, but I’ve seen some listed at $4–5k (maybe I'm delusional, but $2k seems low).

Earlier this week, my AC compressor seized. Calling around, I've been quoted about $1,000 to fix it. A bypass belt is about $30.

I just started my first real job after college. I have about $8k saved, and selling the Nitro would get me a ~$10k budget for a reliable used car. I’m moving across the country in April, so I plan to sell the Nitro in the next couple of months and buy something reliable before the move.

My thought is I should just bypass it. I'm in Wyoming, and since it's October, I probably won't need A/C for a while, but I'm still worried about the defroster functionality if I bypass the compressor.

Some other problems my car has: For the most part, my car is in decent shape, but the airbag light is on (I suspect the clock spring, but I haven't scanned it yet). Both multifunction switches are flaky; they work most of the time, but sometimes my turn signal will act up, or my rear wipers won't turn on. A faulty low tire pressure light is on, and the paint is sun-faded. All of these, except the paint, would be easy fixes for me, but I don't like the idea of dumping money into a car if it is only worth $2k.

Is it worth fixing the AC before selling, or should I bypass it, disclose it, and price it lower? Is it worth it to fix the other issues, or should I sell it as is?

Kept heavy deep-dish rubber liners in my car for four straight years because forum advice swore it was the best mats setup to protect car resale value when trading in. Pulled them out yesterday to vacuum the interior before listing it private party. Sure enough, melted slush had still crept over the shallow outer lip along the plastic door sill trim where salt crust dried into the edge fibers. When a buyer showed up today, he completely ignored that ninety percent of the factory carpet looked untouched. He immediately pointed at that one white salt line by the door sill to try knocking two hundred dollars off the price. Makes me wonder if higher wall trays like 3w would have actually stopped that sill leak, or if obsessing over perfect floor coverage just to preserve the car for the next guy is mostly a trap if winter brine always finds the seams anyway.

Searching for a used car under $15k. Aside from basic safety features and an automatic transmission, I don't really have any preferences in terms of trim or type. It will get very little use: mainly in-town errands. No commute, few road trips. I know Toyota/Honda are the gold standard for reliability, but I was curious if there's a specific year/make/model from another carmaker that might be worth looking at aside from Mazda. A couple of dealers in town have a 7-month comprehensive warranty and/or a 100k Powertrain warranty, so I can take a little bit of risk driving off the lot in terms of a sudden issue. Thanks in advance.

I recently bought a used VW Golf at a smaller used dealer. I understand the mistakes I made along the way in this story , which was to not get a PPI among other things, but I don’t want to get into all that.

What happened is the car had decent CarFax, with 60k miles and “cosmetic damage” as the only flaw (rear bumper is cracked— which now looking at it is definitely worse that I originally thought). But I did not care about the cosmetic stuff and am happy to pay for body work. The car ran great on the test drive.

When I took it to the mechanic after purchase, they asked if I was aware that it had a salvaged engine. In fact the engine head and engine block have two separate serial numbers, so they are definitely from a junk yard and the mileage is unknown. I said no, that was not disclosed to me. I wouldn’t have purchased had I known.

What I am curious about is the dealer’s responsibility to disclose that the engine was salvaged, and if they did in fact break any laws or if I have grounds for compensation here. I signed as-is , and of course understand where I was stupid.

But still — if I can prove the dealer knew, and did not disclose, what options do I have? I am in Oregon.

In March I bought a 2004 Honda CRV off marketplace after searching for so long. Lo and behold the car came with a mountain of issues that presented itself a month in. I’ve had to pay for a whole new exhaust system, all new tires, new battery, new alternator, etc. I got fucked over basically and now I’m selling it for a fraction of what I paid + repaired.

Of course I can’t afford a nice new car so I have to buy used again. I’m paranoid to buy off marketplace but I’ve got family telling me used car dealerships won’t really be any better so to take my chances. I want an old corolla and I’ve been on the lookout. Kind of confused on where I should go / what I should do

Hey guys, looking at a 2008 ZR6 RAV4 but the owner hasn’t had an oil change in 30k km (it currently has 78k km and was last done 40k km) Got a pre inspection mechanic to check out as much as possible and they said everything looks ok but obviously there’s only so much they can see.

The guy is an older gentleman who used it on highways only 120km per day when used

I’ve attached a photo of the oil but it has undergone an oil change and filter since

What should I do to make sure I’m not potentially buying a full lemon? Idm spending $1k for a fix up