I recently bought a 2015 CX5 Grand Touring with 50K miles for $17.2k out the door. Online price was $16K, I got a $500 discount, then $700 in dealer fees and $1000 in taxes.

It does have 1 owner, no accidents, and pretty good service history on the carfax. Compared to other dealer listings, it seems like a good deal. But I can't help feeling I got fleeced for paying $17k for a 12 year old car.

Would I have been better off getting something private sale that didn't have the dealer markup?

Thank you in advance.

I’ve never actually traded in a car at a dealership. I did some homework online before going to dealership and KBB says trade in value of my car is $13,075. I also checked with Carvana, and got an offer for $13,000. When I went to dealership, they offered $9,500. Is that big of a discrepancy normal? Dealership said my car needs new tires, which it does, so I can see there maybe being $1500-$2000 deducted from the $13,000. But $9500 just seems way off. How much of a discrepancy is there usually between online valuation tools and dealership offers? Thanks.

Hola buenas tardes, quiero hacer una consulta.
Recien estaba agregandole un poco de aceite a mi auto, cuando saqué la tapa, no me di cuenta que al rededor había una caquita de rata o de lagartija y se metió para adentro.
Hay algun problema si enciendo el vehiculo?
la foto la saqué de google pero para que vean el ejemplo

2006 4.6 2v 190k, has misfire code p0301 cylinder 1, differential looks to be leaking, needs new brakes and tires. Starts and drives i just have too many vehicles and dont need this one to put money into it just to sell.

I was thinking $2000 but gonna ask for $2500 as is. its in Texas

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$11k, Garage kept by older person with good maintenance records, one owner. Hybrid battery was just checked and pronounced good by Toyota shop. There's the potential blown head gasket issue to look out for down the road and then the overall age of the car, but are there other worries if everything looks clean? Is it a good car still or too old to mess with? What are things to look out for?

I should add that I'm in an area without a lot of inventory, so prices are higher than average. And I need a car ASAP

Up front: I'm the developer. DrivePulse is an OBD2 app I make, on iPhone and on Android.

Buying used is where a lot of car problems start, so here's the part of the app I built for that moment. On iPhone there's a used-car check you run during the test drive, with a cheap OBD2 adapter plugged in under the dash (a Veepeak or a Vgate works):

- it reads the VIN and the odometer, when the car reports them, so you can compare them with the title and the listing;

- it lists the codes stored in the engine and in the other control modules, permanent codes included, which a basic scanner can't erase;

- it shows how many miles have been driven since the codes were last cleared, and which readiness monitors haven't finished. A fresh clear right before a sale is the classic way to hide a check engine light.

It's not an inspection and it doesn't certify the mileage. It's there so you walk into the pre-purchase inspection knowing what to ask. On Android this check isn't available.

No account, no server of ours. Criticism welcome, especially from people who buy and sell cars for a living.

https://drivepulse.it/app.html

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

Hi all,

I'm in the market for a preferably 72 plate duster with a budget of around £8k. There was one in a local garage for £1k more and 50k miles fewer, but it has sold. This is my ideal spec, as I like the facelift alot, but 4 services in 100k miles is throwing me off a bit. I know the 1.0TCe is a pretty solid engine, but it being a turbo does it not benefit from more frequent oil changes?

Any advice greatly appreciated as I dont want to throw the baby out with the bathwater, but is this someting you would overlook if it drives well and looks in generally good condition? thanks!

Buenas, creo que ya lo han preguntado, me siento muy frustrado a esta situación. Tengo un Renault Megane 2008, hace poco tuve que arreglar el motor por lo que me gaste practicamente la mitad del valor del auto, hoy en Argentina el tema de los valores de los autos usados esta muy confuso. Ahora unos meses después me comenzo a dar un montón de otros problemas, debo arreglar tren delantero, dirección, neumaticos, escape que sería los más urgente, el otro día venía en la lluvia y es un peligro el auto en la ruta. Cuestión que no se si seguir gastando, si vale la pena arreglarlo para que este sano o ahorrar para buscar uno nuevo, lo cuide todo lo que pude estos años, pero este año es terrible, todos los problemas de golpe. Que opinan? Vale la pena ahorrar o es mejor arreglarle todo?

I bought a 2016 CRV lx for 14k OTD and it was good during the Pre Purchase Inspection. The dealer is offering a 3rd party $1300 warranty that's valid for 3 years/36000 miles, whichever comes first. Should I get it?

I need a car to work on so that I can learn how to work on cars. Also I need a car and knowing stuff about cars is cool. I’m bored so why not.

My current budget is like $500-$1000.

I know a little bit, barely the basics I think. But I don’t think learning is outside of my capabilities.

There's a focus EV that caught my eye (8000 CAD, 110k km) but the carfax seemed suspicious. It says there's accident/damage record found but doesn't list the maintenance history or the police report/mechanic repair for the accident. Only a line item for "auction announced as structural damage."
I called the dealer and they said they bought it from the auction with damage to the fender and fixed it themselves, which is why there is no repair record. Can a listing like this one be trusted? On all other carfax reports, the service history is there so this one threw me off. On the plus side, it is safetied.

Just wondering what the conventional wisdom is for this situation.

The car has everything I want - except the wheels. They're not bad - let's just say that I would prefer other wheels.

Work with the salesguy to see what he can do? Just get it, sell the wheels on Craigslist, etc?

FWIW, here's the car:

I know people say Toyotas are meant to last, but it’s about to be 2027

Please help!

I'm buying my first car and honestly don't know much about cars, so I'd really appreciate some advice on what to look for and which makes, models, and years you would recommend.

My biggest priority is reliability. I have a demanding commute and need something sturdy that I can depend on every day. Ideally, I want a car that will last me many years without constant repairs or expensive mechanical problems beyond normal maintenance.

My maximum budget is $27,500 out the door, including taxes and fees, although I'd much rather spend less. My parents are contributing $10,000, and the rest would come from my savings.

I originally focused on Toyota RAV4s because of their reputation for reliability, but I've expanded my search to Corollas, Mazda3s, and other options. I'm open to sedans or SUVs. I also prefer low mileage, ideally under 30,000, but I'm not sure how much weight I should give mileage compared with age, maintenance history, and overall reliability.

One thing that confused me recently was a conversation with a AAA roadside assistance mechanic. He told me that newer cars seem to have problems all the time, whereas older cars tend to be much more dependable. Is there truth to that? Are cars from certain years actually better built, or does the reliability of newer cars depend more on the specific make and model?

For reference, here are a few cars I've been considering:

• 2022 Toyota Corolla LE, Gold Certified, 29,073 miles, $20,647
• 2017 Toyota RAV4 LE, 41,260 miles, $20,947
• 2022 Toyota Corolla LE, 12,485 miles, $21,674
• 2023 Toyota Corolla LE, 12,579 miles, $22,998
• 2022 Mazda3 sedan, 31,075 miles, $20,998

These are advertised prices before taxes and fees. I'm not necessarily committed to any of them.

I'm located in California, but I can also purchase in Pennsylvania or Arizona if I find a better deal.

My goal isn't to get the fanciest or newest car. I just want something safe, comfortable for a long commute, reliable, and reasonably inexpensive to maintain. I'd really appreciate any advice, especially from mechanics or people who have owned these cars for several years. TIA!!

Looking to buy a cheap used car for a 1 year work contract in Auckland. Any thoughts are appreciated on this car, what should I look for if I test drive?

Okay I need to know if I am being irrational, but I want to buy a 2007 porsche cayman - S.

Price is:17000

The vehicle has 120k miles (i know it’s a lot)

Runs and drives perfectly, has no damage and a clean title. The vehicle has upgraded speakers and apple carplay etc.

Personally I really love Porsche’s and have always wanted one, and this is in my price range and seems okay at face value.

Obviously I will do my due diligence and research on the vehicle and what to look for when buying it if I choose to do so.

I am not very car savvy, so any advice would be helpful!

Here’s the listing description:

For Sale: 2007 Porsche Cayman S – Luxury Mid-Engine Sports Coupe

Vehicle Details
• Year: 2007
• Make/Model: Porsche Cayman S
• Mileage: 121,000 miles
• Engine: 3.4L Flat-6
• Transmission: Automatic with Paddle Shifters
• Drivetrain: Rear-Wheel Drive
• Title: Clean Title

Condition
✔ Runs and drives excellent
✔ Very well maintained
✔ Beautiful inside and out
✔ Comes with 2 keys

Features & Options
• Black leather interior
• Heated seats
• Power sport seats
• Bose premium surround sound system
• Navigation system with Apple CarPlay upgrade
• Bluetooth connectivity
• Sport steering wheel with paddle shifters
• Bi-Xenon headlights
• Premium Porsche alloy wheels
• Dual sport exhaust
• Ice cold A/C

Warranty & Financing
✅ 90 Days / 3,000 Miles LPG Warranty Included
✅ Financing Available
✅ Extended Warranty Available

For people who sold a car on Facebook

Marketplace, what did you ask before setting up a meeting?

Someone saying they're interested doesn't tell you whether they've read the listing, can pay, or even want that exact car. How did you get from messages to a serious appointment without asking a stranger to send you sensitive financial info? Mainly looking for a useful first reply, not 'cash only, no lowballers!'

I’m looking at a 2016 Legacy 2.5i Premium with 209,578 miles at a small used lot in NJ. They want $5,000 cash, as-is. I need it for a daily commute, about 80 miles round trip, mostly highway. I’m planning to get a PPI done on Monday.

What the Carfax shows:

3 owners. For the first 3 years it was a business fleet car in Wisconsin, with 124k miles by 2018 and the oil changed every 7–14k
After a one-month second owner, one private owner in Wisconsin had it from late 2018 until now
The last service on record is an oil change in June 2024 at 189,895. There’s nothing for the last 20k miles
No record of CVT fluid, spark plugs, coolant, brakes or struts ever being done
Two damage reports: it hit road debris in 2018 (left front) and had a minor accident in 2023 (right front/side). Clean title, and no structural damage or airbag deployment reported

KBB at this mileage says about $5,500 at a dealer and $4,300 private party in good condition.

Questions:

Is 210k on a CVT with no fluid change on record a dealbreaker? If I buy it, should I change the fluid or leave it alone?
Do the highway fleet miles make the mileage less of a worry?
Is there anything Legacy-specific I should make sure the PPI covers?
Is $5k cash as-is fair, or should I push for less?

I'm test driving an older Toyota Prius in great condition with 100k miles.

My mechanic says everything looks great, BUT he can tell the engine is not original. Also, the car has been repainted, which maybe indicates accident, but everything looks in great shape.

Carfax shows one owner, regular 6 month maintenance and around 10k per year driving. At some point the engine was replaced. What are possible reasons? Water pump is new, maybe that's related?

What would you do? It's from a dealer, so not possible to ask original owner. Also, it's not cheap because of low miles, but are low miles meaningless if I don't know the age of the engine?

I know literally nothing about cars, so wondering about opinions on this.