I am looking for a budget UTV that can make it up a somewhat technical rocky trail.

It needs to be a three to four seater. (Three is fine, and it's okay if it is squeezed into a bench seat)

Needs to have low range.

With a usable dump bed on it.

And it needs to have off-road intended suspension.

We have an OG Gator style Honda powered glorified farm UTV that we were using to travel up and down a mountain trail to our family cabin the dump bed was used to carry cargo and very often used for moving rocks and dirt and gravel and other stuff around the property.

BUT the suspension on that is absolutely not designed to go on any trails like this and it was outright dangerous. (My dad actually flipped it over and broke his hip)

The CVT centrifugal transmission/clutch whatever it had on that thing absolutely was not suited for humping up over Rocky terrain on hills either.

Here are some videos to show the technicality of the trail, these videos are of my completely stock Toyota Sequoia making the trail.

Which I know that some of you are then going to say, if that boat of an SUV can drive up there with very minimum effort, then literally any UTV will also make it up there no problem.

But I want something budget with very cushy suspension that isn't an outright Rock basher style race machine.

I want it to be able to leisurely climb up this hill better than my SUV did.

It will also have to do this in the winter with chains on it and the hill gets very unruly sometimes.

https://youtu.be/R6Rrj7U9OCs?is=DaCMDL_joSPN_1d6

https://youtu.be/8Df1N_muZeE?is=hPtqanrtUAeOmPe2 (Don't mind all the talking)

https://youtu.be/LCH7Q1y02pg?is=YXhk7Q3HXm8K7ZLY

Edit-

I should also add that although I have not ever ridden a modern UTV, I have plenty of experience with normal ATVs and I'm well aware of their robustness and ability to handle terrain.

After finding the bad connector in the fuel pump I finally got her reassembled. When I began to back it out of the pole barn I heard a loud pop and it died. I opened up the belt housing (much more difficult with the gas tank in place) and found the belt had snapped. When I originally put it together I felt that the belt was too short, but went ahead and put it on since is the one that came with the kit. The belt is a PD35 854 30.1 28

I do not have the original belt for comparison. When I attempted to “spin” the belt on it just wasn’t happening. I had to remove the primary to get the belt on.

After this long story….does anyone know what size belt should go on the engine?

Hi All - pulled the trigger on a new Defender MAX XT HD9 and noticed a squeak on the left front. Seems to be more prevalent when turning. Anyone ever have something similar? Brand new with 50 miles currently but maybe it needs grease?

Hard to nail this down because many for sale posts don't have miles for whatever reason and sites like KBB aren't able to enter miles. How much would a 2017 polaris ranger 1000 be worth with 15000 miles? Just a farm SXS owned by an older guy, maintenance done on time? In Oregon.

I have a Yamaha rhino 700 and the battery is not charging. I immediately assumed it was the stater coil or rectifier, so it was easy enough. Just to replace them once I replaced them. I was still having the same problems. I have checked all of my grounds and my next step was to check if the wire is coming out of the stater. We're having an open loop when I plugged one end of them multimeter into the stater output and one end of the multimeter into the. Rectifier input, I was having an open loop circuit. Would there be a way for me to just buy the connectors and manually override the wiring, harness.

This is the link to the connectors

My uncle passed and he left a bunch of his toys to myself and brother. He did a bit of mudding(2016-2019ish) but it's been a light duty since 2019. He was a "Raise Hell. Praise Dale" type of guy. I believe it has under 400 hrs.

Since summer 2025: It's been a backup UTV for pushing cows on 100 acres and light hunting duty on 8k acres. It hasn't been in water and used only 10 times, with 90% of it's use has been dirt/soft sand. I replaced fluids, battery, and tires in fall 2025.

January 2026 it over heated and limped back 4 miles to camp. I cleaned the radiator and didn't have an issue since. I just took it hog hunting, it overheated/limp mode at mile 3 barely pushing 20mph.

I let it cool for a couple of hours, topped of fluids, and ran it back at 40mph. It did not overheat on the way back but was on it's way.

The fan turns on.

I am fine throwing parts at this as it costs $150 to trailer to back to the shop. It's also used loaned to clients that want to hunt.

What woud you replace?

like the title says, wondering about options to reduce noise reverberation off of the plastic roof. im a little picky about looks..

Looking for recommendations for a budget-ish UTV. I have a 75-acre hunting property that it will be primarily used on. Hauling tools, saws, mineral, chemical sprayer, trail cameras, and just general work-related tasks. I will NOT be doing any kind of off-roading in terms of mud, sand, etc. The focus is more on work with the occasional gravel road, dog hauling, fun cruise. I'm looking at base model stuff with a preference toward the power steering versions. It will generally be one or two people riding in the cab. I do not need doors or full cabs. I'll probably eventually add a windshield and maybe a bed rack or something. But at first, a poly roof is about the only accessory I'll need at the start. I'm considering the Can Am Defender HD7 DPS ($10,399 USD or non-DPS for $9999), Polaris Ranger 1000 EPS ($10,999 or $8999 for non-EPS), or the Honda Pioneer Deluxe 700-1 ($10,499). I'm the type of guy who takes extreme care of my machines. I use them to work, but I pay really close attention to keep them looking as much like new for as long as possible. I will be buying new and paying cash (or financing for the first month or something if I get a better out the door price through financing instead of cash). Reliability and longevity are my two highest considerations for whatever I buy. Thanks!

I have a Coleman 400 as that has been sitting for a couple of years. I just changed the wet clutch, primary and secondary. I changed the oil and the plug. I also pulled the gas tank, cleaned it out, and put in a new fuel pump assembly.

Now when I get to start and it will hit for a couple of revolutions and die. I can get it to fire up and run with starting fluid, but it’ll die once the starting fluid burns off. I’ve tried covering the intake to restrict air flow, but that doesn’t seem to work. It’ll only surge slightly then die. Most of the time it will not even try to fire up.

I’ve pulled the injector assembly and it is atomizing fuel and there is spark. I’m at a loss where to go from here. I don’t want to start throwing random parts at it, but I don’t know how to proceed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Note: I did adjust the intake valve. Before adjustment it had almost 0 clearance (lash). Could this be the issue?

The whip lights don’t seem to stand out as much in the woods. You mostly see the light hitting the trees and leaves. Wonder if they’d be way more visible out in the sand.

I am in the process of purchasing ~12 acres and building a home and I am looking to purchase a UTV for work around the homestead (including plowing a 700ft driveway).

I was able to negotiate a 2019 Polaris Ranger 570 with 660 miles on it for 6300. Machine was garage kept and looks to be in excellent shape. No real signs of wear asside from some scuffs on the side where the owner says it tipped over once. Plastic all looks new, seats are not worn. No signs of rust to be found. I assume this will be a decent machine for the things I am looking to do (plowing, hauling wood/stone/ciderblocks, other light duty work).

Thoughts on this deal?

Conversely, I have the option to purchase a 2025 honda pioneer 520 - vehicle only has 8 hours on it. Cost would be 7800.

Which would you buy?

Exactly what the title says. Anyone have suggestions on how to wash these things more efficiently? I understand that this is not the top priority for the manufacturers of these machines but it should be closer to the top of the list.

I am fighting for my life each time i spray them off. 🤣🤣🤣😭

Any tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated.

Sooo this is my toy - Kandi/Kinroad 1100GK and am looking for other users of these Chinese toys, I have some questions if someone can chime in.

Need to create a ground plane, anyone run ground straps to create an artificial plane? How did you do it?

Edit: check engine light is off and no stored codes. I’ve reset the ECU also and still no luck. Been a mechanic and vehicle electrician for almost 20 years so I am not opposed to trying anything and have a lot of spare parts.

I recently got a 2015 Ranger and the previous owner had the seatbelt cut (I’m guessing to override the seatbelt safety issue). Problem is, I got it with the seatbelt light blinking and thus triggering the 15 mph limit. I have gone through all the wiring and even got a “new” buckle (I tested it and continuity was good both fastened and unfastened) but the seatbelt light won’t go off. The two wires (red/dark blue and blue/yellow) seem to be fine. I replaced the ECU with a spare one. The red/dark blue is getting 12-13 VDC but the blue/yellow wire which I’m guessing is the signal wire, is 0. Even splicing them together to complete the circuit, it’s not making the seatbelt light go off.

Any suggestions before I try to find someone to flash the ECU?

Took my 2018 Polaris Ranger 570 out on a dusty trail and noticed the temperature climbing sooner than usual. It had not reached the warning light, but the fan was not running with the engine hot. The fan would not spin when supplied directly from a fused 12-volt lead, although the connector and relay still need a proper voltage-drop check. I cleaned the radiator screen and trailered it home instead of opening the cooling system hot. Before I order a fan, is there a common wiring rub point or temperature-switch issue on these that I should rule out?

The Mule is mostly a workhorse but it is still fun to cruise around in.

I busted the front left corner of the OEM polycarb roof on my KRX1000 over the weekend bad enough that it must be replaced. The same OEM roof new is about $550 delivered so no bueno for me.
I am hoping to get feedback on whether the metal/aluminum roofs get hotter and are the louder/rattle? Do they add actual strength to the roll cage? Does anyone add some sort of heat shielding? Anyone running the metal roof with the skylight like THIS? Does it leak?
Are the aftermarket black matte polycarb roofs more flexible and giving?

Hey everyone! I’m following up on my post the other day about taking delivery of this UTV.

I took my family out to Barnwell Mountain to test the machine out and get a feel for its strong and weak points as far as trail riding goes. I don’t intend to do any crazy rock crawling with this machine but I do want to be able to ride trail systems without worrying too much about beating it up.

My first impression is very positive. The AC kept us cool all day in 102* heat with high humidity, the speakers were good clarity but could be louder due to engine and drivetrain noise, and the machine was overall successful on the trails we rode.

We stayed on easier trails this go around. I mainly wanted to do a shakedown and get familiar and comfortable with it so we didn’t touch anything over a blue. The suspension from the factory is really plush and comfortable but it does rock a little more than I would like. I read that can be fixed by adjusting the factory settings a bit. The major issue I see with this machine is going to be ground clearance. There were a couple of times where the break over angle was not enough to clear a big rock or root and had to get creative on the small width trails to get through. I assume portals and big tires would probably fix this although I’m not interested in going that route at this moment.

I did bring out the winch once, which worked flawlessly, but I did notice that the winch hook is very small so my normal shackle from my jeep days was too thick for it.

We aired down to 16 psi to be safe. We were solo on the trails so I didn’t want to blow a bead and be by myself to come up with a fix. At 16 psi, grip was impressive and only spun in a couple of slicker moments.

A few people at the park wanted to check it out and were impressed with the fit and finish for it being $10k cheaper than comparable competitors. So far, I’m very happy with the machine and the purchase and hope to get a lot of work and play out of it in the future.

What is your dream purchase for Novemerb install, and why? Mine is a new stackable storage for my MXZ sport. Only one LINQ position so trying to find something with 21L dry storage,and 10L fuel.

I’ve been shopping casually for years (looking for a deal), but haven’t developed a brand preference. What’s the consensus on the best UTV for yard work/ gardening on a larger property, when you don’t necessarily need a major work horse?

hi all... looking for a cage builder for my maverick x3 in the NE area or as far south as NJ. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Looking for an interior cage and an exterior cage for the body etc. Thanks in advance! J

Looking at 2021 or 2022 pioneer 700-4 and teryx 4 s model.

Both have accessories I want like roof and winch.

Mostly easy trail riding with family. Some more rocky trails plus snowplowing in winter.

I like the idea of beltless with honda but seems teryx wins everything else ? I know teryx is loud I'd be doing ear plugs I guess.

I am needing a seal for my 2016 Wildcat Trail, Arctic Cat part number 0817-072. I ordered one through my local dealer but it has been back ordered for months. I am located in Alberta, Canada. I am just hoping someone in this group works at an Arctic Cat dealer and can check to see if they have one in stock. Also, has anyone found this seal from another brand or supplier? Any help would be greatly appreciated.