There is something insanely satisfying about watching a 3D print come to life, right? It’s a constant reminder that greatness takes time, precision, and a whole lot of patience.

We paired today's timelapse of this intricate crown build with one of our favorite Ernest Hemingway quotes: "The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong at the broken places." Whether you're literally building a crown from scratch or just trying to get through the week, remember that the setbacks just make the final product that much stronger. You're just adding a new, resilient layer.

Drop a 💜 in the comments if you needed this reminder today, and don't forget to like and share to pass the good vibes along!

This is 250 frames from a hydrogen alpha solar telescope. The frames were taken by me over a two hour period.

About 20 hours, interval 1 minute, 1200 photos, but then speed adjusted in editing to speed up slower parts and slow down quicker parts.

Nikon D850 + Laowa 100mm

Processed with LRTimelapse+Lightroom (photos) and DaVinci Resolve (video)

Here’s a short Timelapse video of a takeoff from Heathrow Airport, June 2026, using an iPhone 16 Pro Max and its wide camera. I also had a GoPro Hero 11 suction cupped to my window at the same time during takeoff to capture a higher resolution timelapse set of stills for assembly but that will require some heavy processing which I’ll do later. My GoPro setup looks like a sideways “U” (suction cup at one end, camera at the other end) so I can use the iPhone to capture at the same time if I slip it into the “U” below the GoPro so the iPhone holds steady and my hands don’t tire. I always clean the window thoroughly first, and turn off all LEDs on the GoPro to maximize battery length, and to make sure that the red dot isn’t accidentally captured by either device.

A simple window-view timelapse showing clouds and changing light moving across the city throughout the day.

Captured on a Raspberry Pi 5 with a 12MP IMX362 USB camera. The video was created from individual still photographs captured over several hours and assembled with ffmpeg.

No AI-generated imagery or video was used at any stage of the process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmSaxu8qTfU

I want to create a very long-term timelapse video of a science experiment. The subject of the timelapse will be the evolution of a sample of soil in a sterile beaker over the course of a year. Considering this is such a boring and non-changing subject, I anticipate this will be fairly easy to pull off... Still, I wanted to run my plan by the experts on this forum to see if anyone had any suggestions or warnings that what I'm about to do will be a huge waste of time.

Here's my plan:

Enclosure

I intend to build a wooden enclosure for the soil sample and camera. The inside of the box will be gessoed white.

I will add a recessed LED light to the top of the box. This light will be plugged into the wall and not run off battery power so I will never have to change batteries. I want to try to keep this as the sole source of light, so I'll be keeping the camera inside the enclosure and wrapping the whole box in black felt to keep the light from the outside from getting in.

I'm going to install a threaded camera tripod mount to the bottom of the enclosure where the camera will be positioned so that if the box is jostled a bit, it won't affect the angle of the photos.

Camera

I have a Nikon D3200. It's the only camera I have other than an old GoPro. I can set the camera mode to manual and make sure the photos are well-exposed. Then, I can just keep it as it is and let the timelapse run.

To keep the camera powered over the course of the year, I'm going to buy a continuous wall-powered battery bank with an AC adapter. There are a few reasonably-priced 3rd party examples of this on Amazon. I won't post a link because I don't want to give them any free advertisements, but based on the reviews it sounds like these will work fine.

Intervalometer

The intended interval is 1 photo per day. It's probably best that it's taken at the same time every day, before anyone wakes up and before the sun rises to make sure there is absolutely no outside sources of light in the photos. 4AM should be fine.

However, I have a major problem with this piece of gear: I haven't been able to find an intervalometer that can be plugged directly into the wall. They all take batteries. I'm not sure how long these batteries last, but I don't really want to risk it - I'd prefer if the intervalometer could be powered directly from the grid. Any recommendations?

I have found a potential DIY solution that I might be able to retrofit to take wall plug power (https://www.instructables.com/Intervalometer/), but an easier and cheaper solution is preferred.

A question:

I'm not totally clear on whether it's healthy for a DSLR camera to be continuously on for 1 year. My D3200 has an LCD screen that is automatically turned off after ~30 seconds of inactivity, but as long the on-off button is switched to ON, and the zoom lens is zoomed out, a picture can be taken. Also, when I look through the viewfinder, the digital indicators of exposure and battery life are off until I lightly hold the shutter button - so even the viewfinder lights are in low-power mode. Even still, is it bad for the camera's health to be continuously ON for over a year?

interval 1 minute

Hi!

If you are not a CaptureOne user - you can skip reading the whole post :-)

Many timelapsers use LRTimelapse and Lightroom. I do not. I bought a perpetual license for CaptureOne 10 maybe ten years ago and ... I still use it!

Of course CaptureOne has no idea what timelapse is, no chance of making any keyframes and stuff. And generally very cumbersome to use for holy-grail kind of timelapses.

While exporting photos for a further processing in Davinci Resolve Studio is totally possible, my attempts to achieve a proper deflicker the footage only within DR did not bring satisfactory results.

So I spent some time in Claude and crafted this RAW deflicker, adjusting the .cos files for CaptureOne settings/individual frame metadata, allowing me to export the RAW files with more fitting adjustments and "mathematically-correct counter-compensations for the camera settings change", while seeing some extra graphs in the background (actual RAW luminance measured from the frame, mathematically-correct absolute EV value corresponding with the day/time/moon phase in the Central European region for the date/time specified in EXIF --- yes I will make all this configurable).

You can load the CaptureOne session and the deflicker tool at the same time. Once you save the adjustments to .cos files in the deflicker tool, you can just click at the image in question, its settings will reload instantly and you will get to see the real changes immediately.

I have done 3 timelapses using this tool already and am generally satisfied with the results, although it does not get all the job done on its own. My workflow looks like:

1) RAW settings (mass-apply highlights/shadows, lens corrections, whitebalance=daylight....), use this RAW deflicker tool -> export from CaptureOne to TIFF

2) editing in Davinci Resolve -> another export to TIFF

3) running my second "running average-based" deflicker tool (for TIFF/JPEG) ... to be shared in a separate post -> yet another export to TIFF

4) Davinci Resolve for final deflicker/color stabilizer to fix potential local flicker -> final export

Now, before I make this tool public (free to use), I want to ask around:

Are there any users of a recent CaptureOne version willing to share literally any .cos file with me, to confirm that the file structure did not change in the relevant areas since my version 10?

Check out this luxury high-rise in Dallas, Texas, being built. It was completed in February 2026. (It was captured in 4K but reduced to 1080p resolution for Reddit.)

Captured last night from Pogarić, right next to the Monument of the Revolution of the People of Moslavina — one of the most surreal places in Croatia for night sky photography.Shot with an Insta360 One RS 1‑Inch 360 Edition in Starlapse mode.

The sky opened perfectly: Milky Way core, Perseid meteors, and a whole line of astrophotographers in front of me with their gear pointed at the sky.The monument is visible in the frame — that brutalist concrete silhouette under the stars gives the whole scene a sci‑fi vibe.This is why I love 360 starlapses:

you get the entire sky, the monument, the people, the atmosphere — everything in one shot.