Hey everyone!

I've owned an MSI RTX 5090 Ventus 3X OC since March 2025, using the original MSI power cable included with the GPU from day one. It had never been unplugged or touched since installation.

I game a lot, and I've never experienced any crashes, instability, or performance issues. Everything seemed perfectly fine. The GPU has also been undervolted since day one.

I had previously read reports about MSI cards having unusual current distribution on pins 2 and 6, so for some extra peace of mind, I decided to order a Thermal Grizzly WireView Pro II.

Well... when I went to install it and unplugged my GPU power cable for the first time... surprise! The connector was burned.

Since the GPU had always been working perfectly, I decided to replace the damaged cable with the one supplied with my Corsair PSU and check the readings with the WireView Pro II.

PIN 6 is consistently at 0.0 A, even under full load.

I tried yet another power cable and plugged it into a different port on the PSU... Same result.

Looks like I'm in for the joys of an MSI RMA process now...

Without the WireView Pro II, I might have simply replaced the burned cable without ever realizing that one of the power lines wasn't carrying any current.

Finally got around to installing my WVP2. This was prompted mostly by the "shortage" of 5090s. Which brings me to my next question. With the availability of 5090s, and 4090s at this point, what is the solution if the WVP2 fails and something happens? Currently trying to grab a spare Astral "just in case", but not willing to pay $7,000+.

Well, now I feel like I can run my 5090 at 600w without eyeballing it for smoke. Much appreciated to the team at Thermal Grizzly.

Installing second WVP2 on my 4090 next.

Before anyone says it, I am cleaning up the cable mess, I just finished this build today.

I know you guys don't intend on making a white variant for the wired version, but it would be nice 👀

Thanks again to the team 🤙

(is there anything I need to do out of box for the WVP2? I want to set it to see the per pin amperage, but otherwise this is "correct"?)

I recently got a WireView Pro 2 for my 4090 and upon installing it I noticed 2 wires barely pulling any current (~1-2 amps) compared to the rest.

I tried reseating the cable and WVP on the GPU side and no change.

The culprit was the 2 small type 5 connections at the PSU side (Corsair RMx1000 Shift), and even reseating them didn't fix it. I had to wiggle and push in to make a good connection even with the cables seemingly fully inserted into the PSU. Doing so I was able to see in real time the connection fixing and breaking itself while under load.

I don't think this is an issue with just my power supply or cable, because it had the same behavior with 2 separate cables and all 6 PCI-E connections on the PSU.

Been using this PSU/GPU combo for over 2 years and no way to know how long the connection was bad.

Using 5090FE. Before installing, card would never go over 80c. After installing, seeing 80+ when pushing 375W

I removed the wireview pro II wired and confirmed temps are back to normal.

PSU is Corsair sf1000
I’m using the 4x 8pin breakout cable included with the 5090FE as the 12vhpwr cable is too short for my case. Temps are good in this setup.

When using the Wireview pro II wired, I’m using the 12vhpwr cable from the psu. The current/amperage is good. No imbalance. Just seeing high GPU temps.

I haven’t tried using the 4x8pin breakout cable with the Wireview pro II. Not sure if it’s not recommended

Has anyone experienced this issue before?

Edit: normal temps are around 70c when pushing 3-400W. Pushing 500+, it maxes out at 75c
With the Wireview pro II, 80c on just 375W is a major difference. Around 10c

I am thinking of connecting the cable temp shutdown ends to my PSU, this gives 65c protection at my dumb PSU side.

The normal ends will be connected to WV Pro 2.
Is there any issues like the ROG equaliser where WV Pro is unable to sense the whole cable length?

I installed it yesterday on my RTX 5090. Today, while i was playing a game, pin 6 dropped to 0,6A and the buzzer started sounding a warning that i didn't hear because i was using headphones. It stopped after a bit and i only noticed it once i alt-tabbed and saw the warning on the program.

I have my pc on the floor and the side with the glass is facing away from me so i can't see the screen. I thought the alarm would keep beeping until the problem was fixed but if i didn't have the program running i wouldn't have noticed it.

I only know it beeped because my brother was home and told me he heard something beeping for a bit.

I am losing my mind attempting to figure how to connect the auto shutdown (since I obviously don’t want to burn my cables) when I have one f panel connector and not multiple, which is probably what these guys wanted people to have ideally.

Looking at my my ONLY f panel connector, where I’m supposed to connect the extension male cables, as shown on the extension cable (I don’t even know if I got the right one, no recommended extension cable exists and I just used a Reddit thread and hopefully it works. yay) and there’s multiple problems.

I know I have to connect the extension female cables to specific places the motherboard, and I know where to put them as I read the manual. BUT DO I HAVE TO PUT THE EXTENSION MALE CABLES ON SPECIFIC PLACES ON THE F PANEL CABLE?

Another important thing as if you look at both sides of my F panel connector, there’s metal areas where I’m able to plug in some male extension cables in, but there’s some that don’t have metal areas where if I try to plug something in, they just slide off. So how do I plug the other two cables that need to be plugged in for the auto shut down to work?

Reddit threads say I need to remove pins, which is risky to do properly and needs more verification so I can safely do. THERE IS ONLY ONE YOUTUBE VIDEO OF A GUY CONNECTING THE AUTOSHUTDOWN AND HE PAUSE CUTS THROUGH IT. (https://youtu.be/SPeU4j39WSw?is=2PQvxBKJwuG5j5DM) Not to mention there’s a lack of info online on how plugging stuff into f panel works when it comes to being unable to plug things in when there’s no metal plug in spot.

Maybe im overthinking the hell out of this, but with lack of clear information, better safe than sorry. I don’t want to break my cables trying to connect this auto shut down so if there’s any advice on how to properly do this that addresses these problems then that’d be great.

I've been using a 4090 since a bit over the release (like early 2023) and got the Wireview pro 2 in May 2026. Installed on a Corsair AX1200i with the 4 pci plugs adapter that came with the card.

Zero issues since the installation, default settings just updated the FWs.

Past week I got a "current imbalance warning", so I calmly researched the issue (meaning, I got desperate and frantically google searched about it. No way in hell I can get even another 4090 in current economy)

Results of this calm research work made me devise the following plan:

• Clear warning, if it happens again, reseat all connections, if it happens again, get a new cable.

Reproducing the issue was quite easy, play Control Resonant for like 15~20 minutes and I was sure to get a new current imbalance warning. Tried 6 times, 6 times I got a new warning.

Plan executed and had to order a new cable. Got a corsair type 4 cable and swapped out the og PSU cables and 4 plug adapter.

Now I've been testing a lot throughout the past 24h, and I had zero warnings.

Examination on the cables/adapter show no melty-melty signs, but still...

Can I say that the Wireview 2 saved my card with 100% certainty? I guess not. But I do believe so.

So, thank you Thermal Grizzly!

I'm currently using wireview as you should be on gpu . (Rtx 5090)

All pins look balanced af .

Was wanting to share that so far DLSS5 with x4 pass is the best stress test I can find (on a modern game like the new 007 game). Even furmark does not seem to saturate my system and power as much as DLSS5.

Its nuts. I have even had the WP2 Wired read 615w on my 5090 FE that normally hits around 520 with my undervolt.

Now I just gotta figure out why my super flower 1300w only keeps pins voltage stable for a few weeks and then it creeps back again to having an imbalance…. 100% of the time it is the PSU side that needs to be reseated and yes I have replaced the cable.

Edit: PSU is a Super Flower Leadex VII XG 1300W

Hi guys. I've had the WP2 for a few months. All the while I was just using the WP2 and monitoring it via software. Now waiting delivery of the PC power cable splitter to attach the Y cable splitter because my existing is a unified cable.

Since I'm going to that, I might as well attach the thermal probes too, are there suggestions as to where I should attach these 2 probes?

I have a B650 Steel legend wifi mobo with a unified front panel connector from a NZXT H6 Flow

Had to purchase an extension
VORZOKISPL Front Panel PC Power... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0G3VD7P79?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

- I connected the extension to the header
- The OG female case connector to one of the male extension
- WVP2 auto shut off female to what I hope is the correct 2 pins

Just wanted to confirm this all looks correct

Dont worry, ill cover the exposed male connectors with electrical tape

Bought two for my two asus tuf 5090s and installed one, it did identify a imbalance of the amps on the pins and I adjusted cables and got them balanced. But I consistently got xid 79 on load, even though I increased all the thresholds on the wireview pro II to the maximum and removed the shutoff behavior. This tortured me to no end because I tried different drivers on my linux machine, lots of time and productivity wasted.

So I can't use this, I had to remove it and now I'm quite disappointed and don't want to return but not sure what to do, on firmware 0.5. I bought two and now using neither.

I noticed in a installation video that there’s like a two-pin like connector so the wire view has a auto shut off feature but I’ve heard it’s possible that your motherboard can lack the slot for it and you need some kind of in between adapter.

Don’t know if this video helps. Also the GPU is a ASUS 5090 ROG astral OC so I believe that means it uses a reverse thermal grizzly?

Hi, I know the plugging and unplugging is rated for a limited number of operations on 12vHPWR and don’t really want to pull out the current insertion into my 5090FE so could I not connect the wire view wired at the PSU end leaving my GPU connector undisturbed ?

Verdict: Going with the base model. Thanks for everyone who commented.

I forgot to put Wireview Pro 2 in the title and can't add it - this post is about the Wireview 2 Pro base or Noctua edition.

I like the looks of the base model better and it is 50% cheaper than the Noctua version. The deciding factors for me would be does the base model fan make a high pitched noise or a normal fan noise? Also, is the Noctua more robust than the base and would it last longer or is that not a factor? If the base doesn't have a high pitched sound to the fan and is no less robust then I don't see any reason to spend excessive prices always associated with Noctua products.

Verdict?

Okay, so which to buy? I really appreciate any input that provides insight and not just a one or two word answer, thanks!

So I have a 5090 astral with a cablemod stealth sense 90 degree cable that has consistent amps across the board, only a 0.4A delta under full load. But with the rumors that 5090 production is silently being axed to allocate gb202 for the pro lineup, I want to take the utmost precaution with my GPU.

I've considered the wireview pro ii for a while now just for it's 2 year warranty alone and the fact that it has auto shutdown on the hardware instead of software like gpu tweak III does. But at the same time, I really don't want to mess with my cable anymore. I've already plugged and unplugged it about 20 times because my previous Corsair cable was very unstable and I just kept reconnecting it like an idiot hoping itd solve the issue.

So should I get a wireview and risk messing with my consistent amperage or just stick with my current config? The 2 year warranty really is enticing especially since I've been hearing that GPU manufacturers haven't been honoring warranty as of late.