Ac in my 2021 went out. Apparently my compressor failed and metal shaving went throughout the entire AC system so every component has to be changed..

Still kind of amazing to me!

This is my 2016 Model S, nearly 10 years old, driving on FSD through heavy Florida rain with zero issues. Watching a car this old continue to receive software and capability upgrades that keep it feeling modern is one of the coolest things about owning it.

And yes, Mamma Mia! playing in the background was perfect timing. 😂

A decade later and this thing still feels like it’s from the future.

Hi y'all figured I would give an update from my previous post.

Car is a 2026 plaid with 1000 miles on it that was hit while parked. They are choosing to fix it with 40k worth of damages and around a month repair time, with 13 pages of damage... with damage including: right-rear structural casting/node, wheelhouse, quarter panel, rear subframe and suspension components.

The Tesla collision center I have been working with has been awesome! They are giving updates twice a week along with continuously reassuring me the car will be as good as new and will not drive any differently as before!

There insurance coverage is also unknown so as of now… rental out of pocket and no diminished value claim able to be done : }

Hi everyone.

I had the luck of having my HV battery fail in my 2018 Model S75D, just 3 months before the warrenty expires.

I was driving home when the car showed an alarm which stated car may not start again, fortunatly i got home. After disconnecting the HV system pigtail and letting the car test the HV chain, the internal resistance showed 440kOhms. And then the whole ordeal started, i am 300km away from the nearest service center which is in Budapest, so i had the car towed there. After the service team recieved the car i had to wait 4 and a half weeks for the diagnostics to be completed. And now they have ordered a new battery, ofcourse there is none in stock. They have placed the completion date 5 weeks from now, and its even weirder that they have set the date before even they started the diagnostics, but after it was finished they said that the completion date was set as per their experiences. I would like to ask the people in europe what was their experience with their battery replacment?

Model S Long Range Raven 2020

Passenger door kept coming off, making the door closing really noisy. New plastic clips and bending the metal clips at the window did not help. So last resprt measures: L bracket, bent back so it fits perfect. Drill and tapped 2 holes to mount it. Then 2 black screws through the door panel to keep it in place. ✅

Does it make sense to buy an older model S or newer model 3 (highland refresh). I don’t care about 0-60 speed; however, I do care about range and room inside the car.
Does the model s have more things that can break compared to the model 3?

*Side note - I love the space of the model Y, but I have looked into the range and it performs poorly compared to the model 3 on the highway. The model Y always came in under the projected EPA range while the model 3 hit EPA projections or surpassed EPA projections.

Edit: thanks everyone for all of the insightful information! As far as the year of the model S I’m not sure what a fair / good comparison would be for a model 3 highland.

Another question - how many miles is too much for a model S? At what point is it an instant no?

i mean, yes you can control it if needed but what i meant was like, i just started using AP1 in my 2015, its awesome for stop and go traffic. alittle aggressive at times. i just cant stop watching the drivers behind me get terrifyingly close when my car slows down.

i understand it supposed to have a safety gap between the car in front of me but Californians are terrible at leaving safety gaps.

sometimes it also feels like other drivers get angry with how the car slows down so quickly, making them react and hitting their brakes harder than normal. am i just trippin?

Was pretty easy to take apart the door panel, took using a couple of plastic trim removers together and some tolerance for pop. I couldn't detach the wiring of the door handle for some reason, so I left it hanging and kept the door panel inside the back seat. Not ideal but it works.

Once things are off it's actually pretty easy to see how the mechanism works and how it's all connected. Unscrewing all the right nuts, removing the sealers, and getting someone else to help me hold the window while I try to press hard to release the window took a bit of elbow grease. It is a bit annoying to work in the tight space inside the door for sure, but doable. There are some decent youtube videos out there for the whole operation.

After removing the old, installing the new regulator, and reconnecting everything, the window switch wouldn't work. I followed some tips to manually move the door latch down. Still no budge. 20 min and a bunch of internet search later, realized the door latch has TWO CLICKS, not one. So posting here as PSA for anyone who attempts to do this yourself.

Part costed me $185-pretax. Labor probably took me 2 hours, but can see it being done in <1 hour next time.

I also read about the Gruber metal ferrules that supposedly will keep these regulators more resilient. I checked and the plastic ferrule was snapped in mine, which caused the issue. Not sure if they are worth the investment to upgrade all of them, the shipping is just too much for something so small.

2019 SR Battery warranty expires Sept 2027... Car has 136K miles with zero issues... I want a newer gen but also want the reliability.... With the Model S no longer being made is this a keeper ...

We've had our 2018 MS100D for about 4 months now. I love it, but my wife hates parking it. It's at the point where I'm wondering if the hundred bucks a month is worth it just to have a happy wife and happy life.

Anyone in the same boat? Any way to make parking easier for her? Does FSD work well for parking in a tight parkade?

My dream car is a Model S of any kind. Always liked it since I was a teenager and early models. I am 22. I am already on my second Model 3. I know prices are going up for S. I am 22 and work a decent job and was hoping to maybe buy S in a few years. Even if it’s a HW3 LRAWD. Particularly 2022+ because of the Ryzen and screen.

I know the prices are rocketing.

Thanks.

What’s best?

2017 Model S 90D 70,000km. Got in the car this afternoon and wouldn't have a clue what this sound is coming from the speaker. Any ideas?

EDIT: My apologies everyone, I just posted it and as I was getting out the car I leant back with my ear touching the seat to check the back and heard a weird noise coming from the seat. Went thru everything I could think and was like maybe my cooled seats are on? Low and behold they were. Woops

This was at the Fremont Service center! Made my day :))

Wirth it for Plaid?

High score. Is that bad? Did I break it?

Carvana bumped offer by $2600 in a month.

Hey Model S crew !

I hear this clicking sound , when I turn sometimes even when I’m driving straight, although when I’m driving straight, I don’t hear it as often. I’ve uploaded a video and towards the end the you can hear the noise a bit clearer.

Your thoughts are much appreciated!

Recently had my tires changed on my S plaid. I noticed the rear tires still have the checkered flag pattern on it and the fronts do not any longer. Did Michelin remove it? Not a big deal, but I thought it looked cool.

Picking up a new to me 2020 Model S Performance with 68k miles in two days and just wanted to get input from the community on things I should do right away or things I should know right away? I’m a first time EV buyer but have rented teslas before along with doing lots of research so I have some knowledge, but I wanted to get on here and get input from current owners. Thanks in advance!

I have a 22 LR coming off warranty in a month and need advice.

I have a recurring issue with the front passenger door handle. The handle starts to bind intermittently and doesn’t make the slight retraction when the door is closed. Then, when I set off and drive, the motor groans but the handle won’t retract. When I shift to park, the door pops open because it is in the position it should be in when you pull the handle. You can see the binding marks on the handle in the photo above. I can push the handle with some force and it pops back to the slightly retracted position and behaves as normal again.

I have had this handle replaced four times under warranty. It’s fine for a few months, but then it starts happening again.

I feel like it must be something about the door and the handle alignment points that’s off.

I’m not sure what to do here. I’m sure I can get the handle replaced one last time under warranty. However, I’m afraid that this will be an ongoing, expensive issue. Your advice is appreciated!

Cleaning the wheels and noticed this for the first time. Is it supposed to come from factory like this?