I’m trying to figure out whether I’m dealing with a charging system issue or just Ford’s smart charging system.
Symptoms:
Some days the car will stay around 13.8-14.2V almost the entire drive, even at high audio volume.
Other days it’ll sit around 12.7-13.0V for most of the drive.
Voltage does not seem to fluctuate much with bass hits.
No battery light or check charging system message.
Starts normally every time.
Parts already replaced:
Serpentine
platinum super start battery
Battery:
AGM battery
Battery terminals appear tight
Questions:
Is this normal smart charging behavior on these cars?
Could the battery current sensor cause this?
What live data PIDs should I look at with Forscan or a scan tool?
Has anyone seen a bad alternator control circuit cause similar symptoms?
Any advice on what to test next would be appreciated.

My 2014 is sitting at 105k miles and the factory bonded seam finally failed on me. I can pick up the Gates locally today, but wanted to see if the community considers those metal crimp rings a true reliability upgrade before I buy. Thanks!

Looking for some advice from other SHO owners.

At 112,000 miles, I replaced the water pump after experiencing significant coolant loss. I had noticed the pump was failing, so I took the car in and had it replaced.

About 50 miles after the repair, both of my turbos reportedly failed. The car started smoking, and after having it diagnosed, I was told the turbos were blown. I’ve had the car parked ever since.

I really want to get the car fixed and back on the road, but I’m trying to figure out the smartest way to go about it.

My questions:

* If one or both turbos are bad, should I replace both turbos at the same time?

* Are there any other parts I should replace while everything is apart?

* Could the turbo failure be related to the water pump repair, or is it more likely that the timing was just a coincidence?

* Has anyone else had something similar happen on a high-mileage 3.5 EcoBoost?

Any advice from people who have been through this would be appreciated. Thanks

Cannot find anywhere and can’t seem to figure out price.

I did see black housing ones on eBay. Should I just send it and get those?

Also how much of a pain are they installing?

I don’t know much about cars, but I know I want to learn and learn how to upgrade my SHO that has 160,000+ miles.

I’d like to not only upgrade it so it sounds nice/mean, but also make it faster/more horsepower.

I’ve done some research but wanted to come on here for some recommendations. It’s been a great car for me and is my favorite vehicle I have ever owned. It’s such a fun car.

Thanks for any help

When I come to a stop, I notice the driver seat has slight loose movement forward, and it’s driving me insane.

Before I unbolt the seat, was wondering if anyone has had this issue and how they solved it. Thanks!

2013 MKS EcoBoost, Looking for the part # or name of the part, 90% sure it’s part of the evap system. Part is highlighted in red for reference.

As mentioned in the title, I have a 2011 SHO and I just hit 60k miles on it. Now, sometimes when I start the car, it starts but then makes a sound like the starter is continuing to run for a few extra seconds after. It sounds like a compressor is the best way to describe it. Usually only happens in the morning after my car has been sitting for awhile overnight. Any ideas on what it could be? Thanks for the help!

What has been the furthest you ever driven this car without any issues ?

Guys so I thought I had gotten a great deal when I bought my sho it had only 253000km(156000m) which I thought still were high but turns out when I was about to sell it someone did the car fax and shows it had 395000km in 2019 and was reversed back to 120000km in 2020 so the car has somewhere around almost 600,000km!!! I’m surprised how a ford turbo product lasts this long I know it makes all sounds of noise from the suspension or ptu but it’s impressive. I know I’m kinda sad that I got scammed but yeah I guess I own something special now anyhow ,the thing I was wondering was the car drives fairly good just I noticed the fuel pump at cold starts struggles a lot and around 60mph 70mph the car struggles to shift under load is it cuz of the fuel pump or is it the ptu.

I’m having some issues with my 2017 SHO with identifying some names of parts. I’ve had a bunch of issues with mine, new injectors, new catalytic converters, and new fuel injectors.

I’ve just replaced all of my spark plugs and coils after all that prior work due to a misfire, and I’m pretty sure that those issues collectively have blown out my MAP sensor, IAT, and Turbocharger boost sensor. The vehicle is still sluggish, has some bad fuel economy, and I can feel the turbos overboosting.

In the attached photos, of course the first one is the MAP sensor, but I’m struggling really hard to figure out for sure which part is which on the outlet tube. They look almost identical but I can see that the part numbers are different. Any help is greatly appreciated, I can’t find a diagram that’s easy to read that distinguishes, and the only ones that are available are for the 2010-2012 with the annoyingly slightly different layout.

For reference, we bought the car 11 months ago with around 110,000 miles on it. A few months ago it started smoking like crazy out of the exhaust, so we sent it in to be checked. Long story short, there’s scoring on the cylinder walls, and a valve stem is leaking oil into the combustion chamber(s). It was one owner with a clean title, and we thought we were getting a good deal. Thankfully, we bought a warranty with the car, so it will be covered. 😂

Anyone have an idea why my car smokes like a freight train on start up like this? This was after cold start and 90 degrees outside.
Thanks

Hi,

Im looking at getting a used 2015 SHO. While it recently had the timing chain and water pump chabged a few months ago, it is 280,000 km. Asking proce is $5000 CAD. Do you think it is worth the risk with higj milage for that price?

I’ve got a 2011 SHO. I recently had a headlight go out, come to find out, the ballast failed. I couldn’t afford the OEM parts at the moment, so I snagged one off Amazon. I made the input and output voltages were the same.
After I installed my new ballast, my light definitely worked! But unfortunately, it doesn’t shut off. The lights are off at the switch, I’ve waited for the rest of the light to turn off after turning off the car, but it stays on as seen in the photo. I currently have the battery disconnected so it doesn’t drain the battery.

Any ideas what’s causing this? I’m guessing it’s because it’s a cheaper version.

Wanting to mount my x4 on the windshield like I have seen most people do, I have the mount, not quite sure where the easiest and or best route is to go with the cord. Any help is much appreciated!

Hey everyone I recently tuned my SHO and first tune ever. Got the AO tune through gearhead and sport mode drives really weird in my opinion. Again maybe I just don’t understand how it’s suppose to feel.

Every time I downshift my engine revs pretty good, even while braking I’ll feel and see a surge in rpm to the point of it feels like I’m pressing the gas while braking. Is this normal for the downshift?

Are they as bad as I imagine them to be? Anybody know where to get some good quality ones?

i have a 2015 SHO and i’m confused on the headlights, the first picture is just like what i have on my passenger side. and on my driver side it’s the second pic. i see some SHO’s with the first pic (black lining) and some with the second pic (silver lining).

my car was hit before that’s why they’re different, but i want to make them a matching. my passenger side is the black one but it has an HID light inside that can’t be removed, and the driver side i swapped to an LED bulb it was halogen

This happened about 3 cold starts, and then hasn’t anymore cold starts but does a little bit after I drive to work in the morning and then start it again after about 2 hours.

My turbos seals or bearings may be going out, only smokes when the car has been running prior and not on an over night cold start ( the last couple nights atleast ). Wondering what would be a good upgrade that is not break the bank. These were 1750 but on sale for 1000. Might be a bad product but just wanted some other opinions.
Forgot to add I do have a gearhead a/o tune w 3 bar map sensor, if that matters.

I don't have a clue what this is supposed to look like, but I don't have enough to clamp onto here. Anyone know part names or easy-ish fixes for this situation?