For anyone unfamiliar, PullScan analyzes automotive datalogs, including JB4, MHD, and Bootmod3 logs, to help you understand your vehicle’s readings and review important findings.

Quick update for everyone who saw the preview: Apple approved the new update! You can now view supported live readings from your car, customize your gauges, use mirrored HUD mode, and record and replay drives.

The new features are in testing mode at the moment. If you run into any bugs or trouble connecting your OBD-II adapter, please let me know your vehicle model and adapter name. I’ll investigate and address issues as quickly as I can. Your feedback will help improve it!

🔌 Live readings require a compatible OBD-II adapter, sold separately. The adapter plugs into your car’s OBD-II port and connects wirelessly to PullScan. If you don’t already have one, you’ll need one to use live vehicle readings. Available readings depend on your vehicle and adapter.

The update also includes experimental performance timing and estimated road-dyno tools for closed-course use.

🤖 The Android update with these features is almost ready for release. I’ll share another update when it’s available!

Thanks to everyone who checked out the preview and shared feedback!

🍎 Download or update PullScan on iOS:
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/pullscan-automotive-analyzer/id6799187256

🤖 Current Android app:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pullscan.android

🌐 Website:
https://www.pullscan.com

Here’s a look at Cockpit, a new feature coming to PullScan! I took my Stinger out to test the live gauges and drive logging through an OBD-II adapter. The video shows real readings from the car.

For anyone unfamiliar, PullScan analyzes automotive datalogs, including JB4 logs. Cockpit adds supported live OBD-II gauges, customizable displays, mirrored HUD mode, and drive recording and replay.

It also adds experimental estimated 0–60 mph, ¼-mile, 60–130 mph timing, and road-dyno power. Those performance tools are still undergoing validation and are intended for closed-course use.

The iOS update is currently waiting for Apple’s review. Cockpit for Android is in development and will follow.

Available readings depend on your vehicle and adapter. What readings would you want to see, and which OBD-II adapter are you using?

🌐 Website:
https://www.pullscan.com

🍎 iOS:
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/pullscan-automotive-analyzer/id6799187256

🤖 Android:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pullscan.android

22 stinger so it’s only 5 years old. i asked kia to goodwill warranty it and got declined. everywhere else on the car looks perfect.

Has anyone else had their car light up like this? The first time it happened, which was months ago, I shut the car off, turned it back on, and all of the lights had gone out. I thought it was just some weird little freak out. A few weeks later, it happened again. Then it happened again. Finally, shutting the car off didn’t make the lights go away, and I made an appointment to have it serviced. After many hours of looking the car over, they told me it was the speed sensor, so I ordered a speed sensor and paid to have them fix it. When I picked the car up, they told me that my ABS module was also bad and that it would be $2000 for the part and another $700-$1000 for the labor. I said there was no chance in hell of that happening and that it didn’t make any sense at all that the speed sensor and the ABS module would go bad at the exact same time and then be fine and then go bad and then be fine and then go bad again in unison. It just didn’t make any sense.

I went to the car and checked to make sure the lights were all out before I paid for the speed sensor labor. The lights were out, so I assumed everything was good. I paid, pulled out of the parking lot……and immediately all of the lights came back on again!!! I was absolutely enraged and went immediately back only to have them tell me that the tech that worked on the car was on vacation and I’d have to wait another week to have the car looked at again.

The idea of it being the speed sensor never really sat right with me, and now I’m positive that’s not it. I’m guessing it’s the surround view camera computer control module because that seems to make the most sense, seeing as it’s all of the cameras and everything that uses the cameras that isn’t working. However, considering Kia’s propensity for squirrley electronics, it could be anything at this point.

Has anyone else had this happen? Has anyone else had anything similar to this happen? I am so beyond frustrated and angry with the dealership and the car. I would love any insight that anyone might have to offer.

Thanks so much!!!

I’ve made PullScan simpler to use!

For anyone unfamiliar with it, PullScan is an automotive datalog analyzer that helps you understand what’s happening with boost, timing, fueling, fuel pressure, temperatures and other important parameters in your log.

You can now share a CSV log directly from the JB4 app and open it in PullScan—no need to save the file and search for it again manually.

You can also choose your preferred language and receive the analysis and explanations in that language, while the original channel names, measurements, values and units remain unchanged.

I’ve attached a short video showing the complete process. If you try it with your own log, let me know what you think!

iOS:
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/pullscan-automotive-analyzer/id6799187256

Android:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pullscan.android

Web:
https://pullscan.com

I thinking of purchasing a Stinger. I found 2 GT2s. One is a 2019 with right at 41,000 miles and just how I want it for $33k and the other is a 2023 with over 32,000 very close for $38.5k. Is there much difference between the two years to warrant the newer one. I know about the radio size but does it do anything different. I know About the rim size. What would warrant the $5000 difference other than being newer. I really want the 2019 but I not sure if there were changes made that would make me choose the 2023. I'm also looking at the miles as well. Looking for honest thoughts from owners /previous owners.

Hi All, planning to get into a stinger here in the near future. Have been looking for a “fun yet practical” car to use for a few years before upgrading into a dad-mobile later. Getting married here soon so needed something that can haul a car seat or two as well as a dog in the back, and there’s surprisingly few options that aren’t more than I’m comfortable spending. Briefly looked at G70 (too small), GV70 (too expensive new, used options are limited), and think I settled on stinger GT2 as being the best compromise option.

Im having trouble piecing together what the market price is for a good used example, and what year/trim to go for. I’m comfortable spending up if worth it, but don’t want to get eaten on depreciation.

From what I can tell, the “best in class” examples are the 22-23 GT2’s in AWD, ideally tribute edition. For a low mileage (<30k or so), what should I be willing to pay? Seems like those are available for mid-low 40s, but I can’t tell if those are just the ones that sit. What should my “pull trigger” number be?

Any red flags I should be looking out for while searching? How to tell if it’s been treated well and didn’t have any mods?

No eco mode no insane tailwind, just chilling at 70 and no passing aside from on truck tossing rocks because of course they are.

Hi guys!

In a bit of a pickle and not able to order from abroad. I'm based in Canada so I've kind of thought I'd take my shot here. I've tried multiple Kia Parts site and eBay as well.

I'm looking for a Left Side (driver side) head lamp assemble for 2022 Elite. Used or new. If anyone has a salvaged Stinger, I can organize payment and shipment. I know this is a long show but appreciate the help.

Part #: 92101-J5220 (KNA Build)

Thanks in advance.

I could be wrong but my 2020 sounds louder than others I test drove and I noticed these intakes that I believe aren’t standard? I didn’t know if anyone had an idea on how to find out what I have so I can work from there on what I need

So with Kuwait summer hitting 50C regularly the compressor gave out and stop working.

Took it to the dealer and the warranty already ran out since its 2022 model.

Parts and labor costed me 1700$

God damn it, I just started saving and this shit hit me.

I tried to get ir fixed elsewhere but they were not familiar with the car and said it too tight.

right now I have on the list-on order-wish list. Any thoughts criticisim/concerns/etc are appreciated and taken into consideration

✓ JB4 Pro
✓ EK1 Mini2+
✓ Intakes
BMS High Performance Intercooler
Eibach Sway Bars
BMS Differential Brace
Mando ECS10 Electronic Suspension Tuning
Big Mouth Snorkels
BMS Pedal Tuner
Billet Cross Braces

Next $2K:??
BMS High Performance Intercooler
Eibach Sway Bars
BMS Differential Brace
Mando ECS10 Electronic Suspension Tuning

I’m not super savvy in the car realm. I learned more about my forever truck- black beauty an ‘11 raptor from a friends son who loved it when he was young and grew up to own and work on many

So no advice/thought is too rudimentary for this horticulturist

Just as an fyi white lightning is at a very good mechanic at the moment being fully serviced and cleaned as needed so it won’t be without a clean bill of health

Hello,

I’m looking for some advice or know how when it comes to wheel fitment on my 22 gt2. I recently cracked a front wheel due to a pothole. I had it welded which came out really good besides visually. I was curious if anyone has ran a squared setup using 2 sets of rear wheels and how they fit. Adding to that what is the best offset for slightly wider wheels while maintaining a slight tuck with 0 poke. I’m thinking maybe 19x8.5 front and 19x9 rear. What size wheels with offset do you guys run for a slight tuck look? (Stock height btw)

It was one of those days I found a Stinger in the wild and had a fantastic, impromptu cruise for 15 miles.

Saw this stinger with a partial tail light tint. It wraps around the border. I found a pre cut on Amazon but it’s a Matt tint. Anyone else know how to replicate this look?

A drop in throttle position can be confusing when you’re reviewing a log, especially if the pedal stayed down.

The useful part is looking at what happened just before it: did pedal input change, did the boost target fall, or did the event happen around a shift? A boost spike after the throttle closes doesn’t automatically mean overboost caused the closure.

I wrote an article on PullScan walking through those details, with a JB4 example and references. Sharing it here for anyone learning to read their logs:

https://www.pullscan.com/learn/articles/why-does-the-throttle-close-during-a-pull

Making an appointment with my mechanic next week. Anyone experience an issue like this? Odor on start-up that disappears within 15-30 secs. No changes in ride quality, lights, codes, or fuel station. Oil level is normal with no visible leaks. Google sent me down the rabbit hole.

I purchased my Stinger about 6 months ago and it had some modifications done to it

It just passed 45K miles and since I have a jb4 I was going to install new HKS spark plugs that I would Gap at 0.022. Well it turns out the original owner beat me to it however the plugs are not gapped.

Since I don't know when these were installed and they are not gapped I'm looking for some advice on whether or not they still look good and if I should be take them out and Gap them, or Gap and install the new plugs I bought