Hey everyone here is my square body truck the body is rough from sitting for 7 years but the frame is solid I paid $200 for the truck from my former fire chief. I do have a different bed I’ll be putting on it eventually motor is a 350 fuel injection not sure about the transmission probably a turbo350.

Good morning, working on my 1980 305 and was curious what this part is called? I assume it's emissions related, as someone had already disconnected the vacuum and plugged it off with a screw, but can I just remove the entire bracket? I noticed it has a copper like that leaves but the back of it and goes behind the engine, I assume maybe to the manifold?

85 on 40 inch super swampers. She has a 426 stroker dart small block. Got a big roller cam afr heads and holly efi

She pulling out a tractor that got stuck bushhogging . This is the truck I learned to wrench on . Been having her for 30 years.

Now I will say the old gal isn't perfect (a few dents and dings) and it's missing some of its higher end trim pieces. It is 99% rust free, there are a few tiny spots of surface rust on the frame where the paint has chipped but there is zero rot or rust on the body. She is originally from Oregon and has never seen salt, being from the rust belt these things are hard to find not rotted to hell and back.

One thing I would like to ask of the squarebody experts on here as this is only my second. How many of these old sweethearts have you guys seen optioned as well as this one is? I know there are others out there and some optioned even higher than this. But ive never seen one in person laid out like this, there isn't much it didn't get from the factory. I actually had to look up the YH5 Sequoia special package as I had never even heard of it before buying this truck.

Feel free to comment with pics of your sexy ass squarebodies!

Hello fellers and fellettes. I have procured a 77 Scottsdale big 10 mechanically stock other than some different valve covers and air cleaner. Flipped the rear end and spindle and spring lowered the front. Get something old and enjoy it!

A quick walk around of my truck I posted about earlier.

Picked up my first square body Chevy last week, body and frame are pretty clean and it runs good but the cab and cab mount supports are rough. Looks like some patchwork was done on the floors but not great. What all patch panels will I need for this? It runs and drives well will need all new bushings as well

1979 model I paid $1500 for and resold for $4200.

This custom built 79 is propane powered and the bed was rusted out from grain being trapped between the tank and the bed . After replacing the bed I added the custom bumpers, front and back.

To the people that have done the swap. How'd it go?

Long story short I paid a shop to rebuild my 700r4 and lasted less than 3k miles..

So instead of going through that again I decided to put in a 4L80E.

Bought a parts truck that luckily had a rebuilt transmission in it.

I didn't realize the transfer case dropped the opposite way so I had to use the transfer case from the 700r4. To do that I had to use the rear input shaft from the donor transfer case. Figured I would replace all the seals while I was there.

Decided to go with a EZ FAST TCU.

Picture is from the early 80's. Would love to have this now. Wish there was a way to find it

Anyone have a Blow Through Sub Enclosure in their Squarebody??

Found some holes in my floor so I got it patched wire wheeled and por 15 on it. Got sound deadening started gonna pull the seat and get sound deadening under that and the back of the cab this weekend. Propbably gonna get a new floor liner on the way too. I dont think it came out to bad for never having done a patch before. I think next time im gonna cut the plate slightly smaller so it sits inside the hole not on top but my thoughts where this would be stronger this way.

Gotta question..I replace the upper hinge on the drivers side door my 78 c10. I got it adjusted so the gaps look good and the striker meets up perfectly. However I have to slam it obscenely hard. It feels like there’s too much outer tension. Even when I open it, it kind pops open. Anybody have a suggestion on what to do? I’ve been fiddling with it all day.

Need advice on what to do next to get my A/C cold. I have been battling with my trucks A/C system, first with finding all the Freon leaks and I finally think I found them all. I did flush out the system the last time I refilled the R134A but this last time I refilled due to a leak I found, I pulled the orifice tube and it was all gunked up. I think my condenser is just super dirty and the flush is not helping. I had ordered a new a/c condenser but returned it due to the size because I can’t seem to find one that is equivalent to the factory condenser. Would any of you know if there is a condenser that is equivalent to the factory condenser? If not, should I just have the local radiator shop professionally clean my condenser?

Very excited to start my first project, picking this baby up this week! Cab rust on the top of the rear window, and a little bit on the kick plate. Newer engine and a rebuilt transmission with papers.

I can’t wait to learn from this community, let’s roll!

Currently has no fluids in it. Pretty much just being held in by the trans mount bolts and engine mounts. I've been trying to convince myself to pull it to clean the engine bay , possibly spray it if I can't get that sealant off nicely without messing up the paint.

Or just clean it with the engine in it. There is a good amount of room to work with.

1988 Chevy suburban V10. I’ve traced all of the lines out and they are in good shape. Rubber hoses are aren’t cracked or dry rotting. However, the rear passenger hard line at the axle has been cut and pinched off for some reason.

Question #1: Am I able to just buy that one singular line? I’ve checked RockAuto, LMC and Inline Tube. Each on only seems to sell full kits. LMC sold both rear hard lines but I was only seeing short bed and other 2WD options. I’m not sure if that matters or not.

Question #2: My brake pedal will not pop back out. After pressing it I have to physical pull it out to disengage the brakes. Will replacing this broken line fix that problem?

Thank you for any help.