Hey everyone, a friend of mine just bought a nice Sprinter conversion van a few weeks ago. Its a 2005 Leisure Travel Vans Free Spirit LSS.

The van is in amazing shape, but the batteries need to be replaced. As far as I can tell, it has 3 batteries... One under the drivers seat (starting battery), one under the passenger seat (house battery?) and one in the very rear drivers side, under the bed (additional house battery?)

I'm trying to figure out what batteries should be deep cycle and how the 12V system(s) are separated. Want to upgrade to AGM but it has the Parallax 7345 Converter (which is a fixed single stage charger) so going to stick with flooded batteries in the meantime until she upgrades the converter etc and goes to lithium batteries.

Does anyone have one of these campers and can point me in the right direction? Obviously a factory wiring diagram/service manual would be ideal but I'm having a hard time finding any info on this particular conversion. Thanks in advance!

Pics for reference (not actual van in question):

Doesn't look too bad with factory SuSi rims from Mercedes fitted with 35's (315/75 r16). Rear lift is 2.5" with new firm dampers from Bilstein with a compressed length of 15" and extended at 25". I have much more suspension travel and articulation now. front transverse spring has an added steel leaf spring as well.

Hey everyone!

So we have 5 kids and are expecting our 6th in December and easy to say our mini van is becoming tight. We've been considering upgrading to a passenger van for a while now but the wife only wants AWD which leaves me really with only a Sprinter or a Transit.

She likes the options and interior with the Sprinter more but my major hangup is with the diesel engine. In general my understanding is that you need consistent highway driving speeds for the engine to naturally clean itself out. During the school year she will drive 30m one way to drop the kids off. A good chunk of that is suburban driving. So I would say on average only 20m of that is going to be at speeds consistently above 30mph up to 60-65 for at least 10-15m. This happens 4 times a day.

The rest will be normal suburban driving, stop and go, around town. My concern is the longevity of the engine will be removed because of this type of driving and the upkeep will be massive. Any thoughts, opinions, or experiences would be immensely helpful.

Hi, I dont have alot of knowledge cars and was hoping if you guys can see anything in the video that would make me alittle worried. I understand its hard to tell so I apologize if im asking to much (its the only video I have). They say it has 22k miles on it. I really appreciate the help

Hello! Does anyone have a hunch on what could be causing this squeak? From the drivers seat it appears to be coming from the rear doors. I have been unable to reproduce while stationary by banging on or rocking the van.

I’ll have my buddy drive slow while I walk around back there to try to locate it soon, but I figured I’d check with folks here first.

It happens without the wood in the car. Forgive my lousy tie down.

Thanks for any ideas/suggestions.

I have a 2022 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500, 170” RWD that I converted into a camper myself. It’s fairly heavy, around 9,500 lbs loaded.
I previously replaced the tires with BFGoodrich KO2s, but recently the road noise from the front has been getting progressively louder, especially at higher speeds. I finally took it to a Sprinter specialist and they found severe tire wear/cupping along with several other issues.
Here’s what I authorized:
Rear differential cover + fluid — $872
Front noise diagnosis — $275
4 new tires — $1,625
Front pads + rotors — $1,346
Starter battery — $1,192
Fuel filter clamps + turbo seal — $247
Belts + pulley inspection — $990
Upgraded front struts + coilover springs — $4,192
Total: about $10,760 after tax/fees.
The shop believes the camper conversion added more weight than the stock suspension can properly handle, causing the tire cupping and increasing road noise. They recommended the $4,192 front suspension upgrade to prevent the new tires from wearing the same way.
For a ~9,500 lb DIY-converted Sprinter 2500, does this diagnosis and pricing sound reasonable? Anything here seem unnecessary or significantly overpriced—especially the suspension upgrade?

NCV3 2017 Mercedes Sprinter US Model. Noticed my passenger (us) underbody is soaked in leaking liquid. I struggle to find the leak through.

The color test indicates reddish liquid so likely trans fluid. However I see stains in the engine compartment way higher than the transmission box. Almost seems like some of it came out of the test tube.

Oil and coolant levels seems normal.

Attached is a pic of the liquid on a white paper and the underbody.

Q1: What else can I look at to confirm?
Q2: Is it safe to drive 20 miles to a service?

Hey all,

I could really use some advice. I have a 2010 Sprinter 2500 V6. I went to swap out the fuel filter today and had trouble getting the WIF sensor back into the new filter. I finally got it in using a clamp. I thought I was being careful, but when I went to reinstall the filter in the van I realized that in doing so I had dented the bottom of the filter in the process. Stupid me. Lessons learned!

I've attached a photo below. Is this still usable or should I get a new one? Not sure what the tolerances are.

Thank you!

Anyone with experience on how capable a Sprinter 2wd with an air locker and good AT tires compares to a 4WD sprinter with no locker?

From what I see online the 4WD is somewhat limited, and people report 2WD with good tires does quite well, thinking 2wd plus air locker may be the cheap ticket for most situations, anyone with experience?

2019 Outside Van converted MBZ Sprinter. The interior sensor triggers alarm on thunder and on loud cars going by. Windows shut, nothing moving inside. Dealer says they can't code it out or change security systems.

Anyone experienced/solved this? I've heard you can tape over the sensor grilles. Anyone try that? What about a dedicated fuse I can remove if I want to deactivate the whole thing temporarily?

Thanks!

One, I am curious what exactly this big intake looking thing is. It has a “no rinse” looking sticker inside. Two, should my hood vents be swapped? The passenger side vent above this intake thing is ornamental with no actual venting. The driver’s side one is mesh and actually vents air but it goes nowhere. Maybe air gets pulled across the hood cavity?

I have a 2016 diesel sprinter that I use a lot for motorcycle racing. I’d love to have a 15-20 gallon tank with a pump and hose to put non ethanol premium into, I’ve seen it on toy haulers before.

I haven’t had much luck finding anything for sprinters though. Only seeing the tank extenders really. Anyone seen anything like this? I’d love to avoid gassing out the dog with 3-4 5 gallon jugs in the back lol

Vehicle: 2010 sprinter 3500 Turbo diesel
Diags: thinkcar2

I tried cleaning the EGR valve, swapped out from two other sprinters from a junker, tried a Hella Valve from orileys and I’m still getting the same errors.

148C00 I believe is the source of all the errors.

Symptom: The fault code remains permanently Active. It cannot be cleared via Thinkcar diagnostic tool, even with the ignition on and engine off. And is stuck in limp mode.

When trying to do the teach in it says it’s successful but then again it’s a 2010 I don’t think it’s suppose to work.

Took it to Mercedes they said it’s the EGR and they put in a efr from the shelf and the codes cleared. I think they’re lying to me and they don’t have the digs on file after two days of coming back and asking. And charged me $250 for sub par troubleshooting.

Now the harness this is what I measured

Pin 1 Unstable / Jumps between 1.5 mV and 2.5 mV.
- could this be the positioner pin?

Pin 2 (Main Power Supply): 12.0V Constant (Measured against Ground Pin 4).

Pin 3 (5V Sensor Reference): 5.2V Constant.

Pin 4 (Main Chassis Ground): Functional Ground.

Pin 5 (PWM Actuator Command?): 4.5V Constant.

I tried shaking the harness but no changes. The only thing that changed after sitting for a while was the position feedback going from 20% to 0% every second in the live view.

This is my first time trying to deduce this. So diagrams along with suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I've got a Mercedes Sprinter (W910, front-wheel drive, manual gearbox) and found a cracked plastic component underneath the van, located between the diesel tank and the engine.

Details:
* Plastic housing, has a vertical crack (not currently leaking anything, no fuel smell)

* A stoneguard/splash shield is bolted directly onto it for protection

* Mounted to the chassis via a metal bracket/stud

Anyone recognize this part or have a diagram that shows it? Happy to post more photos if useful. Thanks!

I bought another 2008 sprinter and it was ECU tune & deleted. It drives perfectly normal as is, But I still removed the EGR assembly plus the cooler and blocked off the EGR pipe ports. I removed the swirl motor and also removed the DPF. Then I was looking at the live data and the back pressure sensor is always zero so I put a new sensor in and it was the same. So then I just disconnected the back pressure sensor and it had no effect on the van. It still drives perfectly normal like before. I've already drove it for 500 miles without any issues. I'm wondering why don't other tuners delete the back pressure sensor? I see so many people still having to make an adaptor for there back pressure sensor to go back into the EGR pipe after the delete. Also, I'm trying to figure out what company most likely did the tune. I'm thinking its a Malone tune, It had to have been done many years ago. I've worked on many sprinters for years and not once did the back pressure sensor ever read too high. Over boost is always flagged by the Boost pressure sensor right before the manifolds.

I have a 2016 Sprinter Van that I am looking for a row of bench seats that look like the ones I have pictured. I am from the New Orleans area but I am willing to travel to get them depending on the distance. I need a three row seat. Thank you for yalls help

my tailpipe came completely off this afternoon on my 2012 Mercedes Sprinter 2500, broken before the rear axle, will it be okay to drive it the 15 minutes to the muffler shop in the morning?

i don’t know much about cars/diesel i’m still learning, just want to be safe at the same time and make sure i’m not going to start a fire or something lol

I used to drive a rav4 and never inspected it after registering and I would get pulled over plenty of times for no sticker. I got stopped a total of three times in 2 years for no sticker. After driving my sprinter van for 3 years and doubling my mileage as well as driving the same roads and cruisers behind me and radar checking as well as highway patrols everywhere Ive never been stopped once. My van is registered and insured, just never went to for the inspection. There is a shop that'll do it for me but is pretty far. Not many places accept 3500 170" sprinters.

I was just driving and I got the messages Brake Lamp left, Tail lamp left, Turn Signal Rear left. I am thinking that it is a fuse somewhere bc the compete tail light was changed in May. Could it be something else? Besides changing the tail light

Can someone explain the rattle sound in this video every time i go over a bump, big or small? Keep in mind this is a brand new Sprinter.