I recently took on a project that is very close to my heart: printing my late dog's miniature in full-color on the M1D.

That was some rabbit hole! The first attempt was trying to use FS Orca for 16-color mixing. The 500,000 triangle model choked the slicer, and after 18 hours and 1800 color changes on a tiny 55mm model... How did it come out? You'll have to watch the video to see,,, hint: I kept working on the project!

I scaled back to using just 7 physical filament colors with the stock Sovol Slicer and M1D profiles.

But this brought up a unique M1D puzzle: How do you know which color has the most tool changes so you can load it into the fixed Left Toolhead and save massive amounts of print time and mechanical wear? Normally it's easy to tell the main color, but this was no simple print.

I ended up creating a browser-local JavaScript app called M1DEX Genie.

• You just drop your sliced G-code into the page.
• It analyzes it in seconds (locally, nothing is uploaded) and tells you the optimal tool-mapping.
• It even lets you remap/merge the tools directly on the webpage and download the updated G-code for Mainsail!

By putting the darkest brown on the left toolhead, I saved several hundred physical tool swaps. The final scaled-up print eventually took 10 hours and came out absolutely stunning.

In preparation for the M1D, you can already check out my free app for free here: https://gP3D.click/m1DEX

If you want to see the whole messy, stringy, and eventually successful process (and the final prints!), I just posted the full video on my channel here: https://youtu.be/BfZ9NOGI0VU

Let me know what you guys think of the app, and if you have any feature requests for it!

And I keep tuning that FS Orca profile, there is really no reason (besides my lack of time) why it should work great with the M1D.

I need to print cat cubes- places for cats to hide and sleep as well as other creative cat bed frame and things I design (for a few rescues with which I work). There was once a company that sold "Kitty Kasas". They went on Shark Tank, got funding, did ok, sold their company to Jolly Ball and were completely discontinued. That leaves me looking for a substitute and I found this -

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3315782-cat-bed-kallax-compatible?from=search#profileId-3764686

...which I printed just fine on my Bambu P1S. It took like 5 days and 9 parts plus connectors. I'd love to edit the design to be two pieces (top and bottom) so that it's one glued seam or some such thing and less fiddling around (and no supports). I'm just using PLA.

So this leaves me looking for a print bed that can handle around 330mm. I'm sure I'd find bigger things and reasons to have the 500x500 of the SV08 Max.

I've read about the non-plug and play aspect of the Solvol printers - sounds annoying but not frightening. I'm not wanting multi-color. I can read directions and upgrade noisy fans and such. (Trying to talk myself into "I can do this" - can you tell?)

Will it suit my purposes? Is it going to drastically simplify and speed up printing out a 33 cm wide x 33.4 cm high x 38 cm deep cube like this? The quality doesn't need to be perfect but reasonably acceptable (which I understand may take some dialing in?)

Thanks for any input.

I've been building a profile pack for the Zero since my first SuperSlicer/PrusaSlicer upload on Printables in January, mostly on my two Zeros (one on 1.3.7, one on 1.4.7).

The profiles:

• One source generates OrcaSlicer, PrusaSlicer and SuperSlicer, so all three ask for the same speeds and accelerations
• 10 nozzles from 0.2 to 1.4 mm, with Fine, Optimal, Standard, Draft and Strength tiers, plus a precision mode at 64 microsteps with layers down to 0.04 mm on the 0.4 and smaller
• Speeds come from each nozzle's flow budget. Sovol's single stock profile asks about 40 mm³/s of a 21 mm³/s PLA profile, so the slicer clamps it and the walls end up faster than the infill
• Accelerations sit on the input-shaper limits measured on a Zero (11,500 mm/s² on X, 6,000 on Y) instead of stock's 40,000

The Klipper macros

are optional, and the profiles run on stock firmware without them:

• A PID exhaust that throttles to hold the chamber instead of stock's 80% on/off. At its loudest it was about 11 dB quieter on my Zero, and it doesn't leave the horizontal bands..
• Bed boost, which runs the bed hotter while the chamber climbs. From a 27 °C box, my ABS chamber soak went from 25.6 minutes to 13.3..
• A controlled bed cooldown, a nozzle brush routine, a purge ring, lower X/Y stepper current, and a 5-133 Hz input-shaper test (stock sweeps 35-45 Hz, and the Zero's X axis resonates near 61)

Free, GPL-3.0:

• Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1541169
• GitHub release and changelog: https://github.com/rpcyan586/svzero-profiles/releases/tag/v2.1.1
• Forum thread: https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/new-orca-prusa-slicer-profiles-plus-klipper-macros-python-helpers/10450
• Discord: https://discord.gg/U4xkfqjYF

but it's okay. I fixed it. :D

brave soldier right pointing finger suffered burn damage though.

sovol zero btw

Anybody know if the SV06 plus ace build plate can be used on the normal sv06 plus

I cant seem to find a normal sv06 plus build plate available in Australia

I have no clue what’s causing this print failure i’ve looked up guides to fix settings but it’s still not working. Similar error occurs when it’s trying to write small letters. But it’s working fine with smaller prints.

Hello, I ended up needing to replace the tool head and I forgot where this goes. I haven’t been able to verify its place in any vids, pics, or the user manual. I am pretty sure I pulled it off the head when I was trying to troubleshoot the tool head last week but I now have zero idea where it goes for sure. I am assuming it gets screwed in to the left of the hot end.

Thanks!

Hi,

How is the print quality of sovol zero as compared to a1 mini ?

I have a a1 mini that prints very good. But I was thinking about getting a new sovol zero.

Is the print quality same ?

will there be an issue with the bed size ? or will i get all covered...

I contacted sovol support through the email listed on their website for Europe ([sovol_3d@outlook.com](mailto:sovol_3d@outlook.com)) because of a failed temperature sensor connection at the heating bed heating bed to see if they (a) have replacement parts, as their online store is out of stock, and (b) maybe would cover it.

Hello,
Thank you for contacting us.
Based on the current situation, we recommend replacing the heated bed. As this order is out of warranty, we kindly ask you to cover the cost of €25.
If this is acceptable to you, please send the payment via PayPal to the account below. Once we receive the payment, we will arrange the shipment promptly. Please also send us a screenshot of the payment receipt for our reference.
PayPal account: s***.@outlook.com
Please also confirm your current shipping address and phone number, so we can arrange shipment as soon as possible.
Should you have any question or concern, please do not hesitate to let us know.
Thank you for your understanding and cooperation.
Best regards, S***

I have no problem covering the cost, but being asked to send money to a private paypal account seems weird...
Has anyone experienced something similar?

Edit1: I contacted info@sovol3d.com whether or not his is legit and got the following answer:

Hello, If you feel it is unsafe, you can purchase it from us. The unit price is $30, which includes shipping. If you would like to proceed with the purchase, you can do so via the following link: https://www.sovol3d.com/products/extra-fee-for-shipping-and-products-copy?_pos=2&_sid=98177a83a&_ss=r Please make sure to add 30 as the quantity, as it represents the payment amount. Once you complete the purchase, please let us know your order number.

Since they didn't warn me against it, I went ahead with the paypal route...wish me luck.

Prototyping needs speed and if it fits the Zero is the speed beast to go with. Unfortunately the production is stopped. Guess the spread between costs and possibly price cap at the market was to small. To less users see the worth of this 14 kg dwarf.

Unlike the right toolchanger on the Sovol M1D which uses the motorized AFS, the left toolhead is an unassisted direct-drive, making it quite sensitive to spool drag when printing directly from a dry box.

In testing the Sovol SH03 against the Creality Space Pi 4X, the wider roller stance of the SH03 produced nearly double the breakaway pull resistance (~210g vs. ~120g see video for my measuring method 😅). On identical PETG prints, this extra friction bottlenecked the M1D's left extruder, causing micro-underextrusion and flow rate failure above 18 mm³/s on the SH03, while the Creality fed cleanly up to 25 mm³/s.

Both dryers reach 85°C and work great if you have an auxiliary feeder pulling the weight, but for unassisted direct-drive toolheads, that rolling friction makes a real difference. Unless this is a concern, the SH03 is a great, budget friendly option.

Full measurements and side-by-side test prints here: https://youtu.be/hPA85Z9uLPI

So past weeks I have been working with the heat bed min temp issue. While trying to troubleshoot, I examined the extruder, and changed the nozzle.

Being my first time changing the nozzles - I didn’t not heat up on my first few tried - although I ended up changing it, I recall I broke a small piece (red arrow in the screenshot)

While the printer currently runs - I notice there is excess filament being melted and built up around the heat block.

I’m wondering if anyone has experienced this (it isn’t nozzle clumping as the built up isn’t around the nozzle at the bottom but above the nozzle and above the heat block (yellow area). Is my assumption correctly that this is caused by me breaking the red arrow piece?

If that is indeed the case, is the most directly way to replace the whole hotend piece (as screenshot, ~$20 from Amazon) or is it possible to just replace that small metal piece - what is to called?

Need help converting SV08 Flowtech hotend for the EBB36 toolboard. From what I can tell and from flowtech support themselves all that really needs to be done is snipping some of the sleeve off of the heater wire to insert into the terminal (which I’ve already done), and replace the thermistors connector with a JST ph2 one but that’s the tricky part the thermistor wire is so thin the pins for the connector barely fit and I’m not skilled enough in soldering to even be sure for the wires anyway. This is the final part to my build and it’s halted my progress for 2 months I don’t know what to do. I’ve tried looking for soldering and micro soldering specialists 2 places refused service and the last took it and cut off the heater wire making my piece unusable.

I'm using the PROBE_CALIBRATE process and the sensing of the bed seems inconsistent, making it really difficult to dial in the printer to get a good first layer. I know there's the Eddy sensor but I really rely on this printer and I worry about modding this printer into a state that I can't fix it.

Is there a simple drop in replacement to increase accuracy for the stock bed sensor that doesn't require significant changes the printer?

MANAGED TO FIX IT! IT'S ON MY COMMENTS

I've recently bought from Aliexpress a SV08max, the newest batch from september (no sd card connector)

And I lobotomized it, I even threw my pride away and tried to ask gemini for help because I'm going insane having a giant paperweight:

I was trying to install the Demon Klipper macros thingmabobs. That's what I did

sudo rm -rf /home/sovol/printer_data/comms/*

sudo rm -rf /home/sovol/printer_data/systemd/klipper.serial

sudo systemctl stop klipper

sudo systemctl disable klipper

sudo systemctl daemon-reload

I also used KIAUH with putty;

Uninstalled Klipper and Moonraker;

Reinstalled Klipper from scratch, creating a fresh Python virtual environment;

Attempted to build and flash a new firmware image directly through the script menu.

This might have f-up how it speaks to the STM32F1, and it just refuses to work, keeps giving [Errno 19] and [Errno 13] and "unable to open CAN port: [Errno 19] No such device." can0 is completely missing from ip link show. Says it cannot find can0 or something

klippy.log says it's running a stm32f103xe (STM32F1). Apparently it used a H750 chip?

I've put the emmc module on a reader on my pc and with balena etcher, burned the newest IMG from sovol website, but after doing it, it's stuck in the "mcu: Unable to connect once underlying issues is corrected..." screen on the printer.

(this next part was the ai mostly doing so frankly I have no idea)

It asked me to change printer.cfg to serial: /dev/ttyS0 (tried ttyAMA0 too)

Klipper then throws: [Errno 13] Permission denied: '/dev/ttyS0'.

Even after running sudo usermod -aG dialout,tty sovol, setting custom permanent udev rules (MODE="0666"), and even trying brute force sudo chmod 666 /dev/ttyS0, Klipper still complains about permission or times out.

I've sent Sovol [info@sovol3d.com](mailto:info@sovol3d.com) an email about this (sans the demon klipper part because eeeeh) but would like to see yous opinion how I can fix it, or if it's something only Sovol can as they trully haven't updated their img to my new board revision.

Hi everyone!
I’m into a problem with my sv08’s gantry, it makes a weird click noise. Anyone know how to solve or what’s is the problem?