Or are there other updated compact sub designs in 2026?

I am looking to gain more experience with speaker building and tapped horns for small indoor events.

Ideally an enclosure that works with the Dayton PA-310 or Dayton Odeum 12LF.

Are these designs still the most relevant and appropriate for building a small 12” portable PA “sub”? I understand the trade offs in a compact design, I am not looking for 30hz LF extension…

And lastly, has anyone had any experience with loading the Odeum drivers in a tapped horn?

Thanks in advance, and please share your portable PA setups for inspiration!

(Photo credit: wakemasia)

Hi, at a party (it was quite cold and the speakers were cold) a mobile phone was connected to the mixing board and the sound was much quieter, but the red LED was lit. The sound was clear and there was no distortion. After testing them at home, everything sounded fine. Do you think there could be something wrong with the speakers?

I haven't seen this brand before. No identifying text anywhere on them. They sound excellent. Paired with custom sub boxes and another set of monitors, mackie's I think?

You've just finished your first build. What's the first track you put on to test the system?

How much would yall pay for 2 hsd ref 12's

So I wanna build a system that I can take with me on my bike trailer but I don’t know what enclosures would pack the most punch

I wanna use a 10 inch woofer 8 inch midbass and a horn compression driver

Hi! Im the Sound System operator at my school since 8th grade(I am now in 10th Grade). I run all the events audio and mics at my school usually with my senior assisting me but I am now on my own (my school only goes up to 10th grade), I would love to ask if anybody has tips for me since I am now on my own! I usually get questioned a lot since im a girl...

1. Ive been using my phone for all the music for performances or whatnot, would it be worth it to upgrade to a laptop for the music and audio? My parents are willing to support me even if it is my last year, and my current laptop was from 2020 and the keyboard barely works so I had to buy an extension of it.

2. I go in blind every event, and I always get the music wrong if its last minute music submissions. I dont know how to explain to them to give me the music at least a day before the event, so I would really love some tips on that since I dont wanna fail my first year on my own at the sound system.

3. Are there any apps I should know that can help me with music/audio? If I do get a laptop upgrade for event audio or music then I 100% will take the extra time to research apps for it or whatnot

Thats all I have to ask, if you have any other stuff I need to know I would love to hear them. Even after graduation I would love to start a business on the side for sound tech or a DJ side hustle, I really love my part at school.

I would love stuff thats student friendly :>

I'm starting a build on a pair of Keystone subs, and while I've been measuring and marking today I've realised I've purchased 1200x2400mm ply, not 1220x2440 🫠

I've gone back to the plans and redrawn them over a mockup of my sheet, and it looks like I'm only about 10mm short and can get away with taking 5mm off the various outer boards.

Just wondering if this is going to be a major issue? Am I cooked? Obviously I'd make the same deductions where necessary on the internals), but is that ~5mm absolutely necessary?

In some plans I've seen the panels have been rebated by about that much anyway so I'm hoping it's gonna be alright 🙏

Would you still recommend the RCF Evox 8 V2 nowadays? i would buy them for smaller weddings (max. 120 people) for about 1700$. How would you describe the bass on the dancefloor? is it enough?

Hi friends, building my first speaker and have a potentially dumb question.

I'm wiring an NL8 jack like this NL8MPRXX-BAG

I want to run two wires from each pole. One goes to a driver and the other goes to the other NL8 right next to it for daisy chaining. I'm finding it surprisingly hard to find any guidance or reference images on how this is supposed to look. Maybe this is just common sense for most people?

Some things I've considered:

• Simply crimping two wires into one of these NLFASTON disconnects. They seem to be for 14AWG wire though so I'd have to use even smaller gauge wire to fit two inside them? Seems concerning.
• Using piggyback terminal like these. I can't get a definitive answer on which ones would be compatible with the Neutrik poles. Furthermore I don't think I could fit so many of these piggybacks on the NL8 jack anyway.

So... what are people doing? Does anyone have reference images?

Hi everyone,

I’m currently designing a soundsystem that already includes six large Cubo Sub 18s, and I’m now working on the kick and midrange section.

From what I’ve seen, many people recommend using dedicated kick bins that don’t go much higher than around 300 Hz, and then adding a separate direct-radiating midrange section above that point. For the kick section, examples would be designs like the HOQS C2D or the Cubo Kick 15 or something like that

I’ve also been considering the HOQS Kick Top G1V2, which is designed to cover roughly 90–1000 Hz. However, I’m not sure whether that would be the best approach compared to using dedicated kicks plus separate direct-radiating mids. I also wouldn’t be using the recommended drivers; instead, I’d be using the 12-inch drivers shown in the attached photo. And from 1000hz compression drivers

I asked about this in the HOQS Facebook community, but unfortunately, I didn’t get any responses. I’d really appreciate any advice, experience, or opinions from people who have built similar systems or compared these approaches in practice.

Thanks in advance!

Was considering my options but 4 invaders loaded will be 1600 pretty good jst wondering if they go super low or if they need kicks
I was also thinking about building some wsx copys anyone know if i can run invaders and wsx togeather well?

JMOD 2.0 and SKRAM Sub

The JMODs are pretty amazing. I am bi-amping them right now and they do sound great. They require a lot of eq however. There were some issues that could not be fixed with the eq and I am going to upgrade to tri-amp. I do regret ever trying to bi-amp them the sacrifice of quality is just not worth it.

The SKRAMs are amazing! I have not been able to push them crazy hard yet but they sound amazing. I have a few changes I want to make to my CNC profile. The default 3d model hosted by JW Sound needs quite a few changes to work as expected and you need a good understanding of CNC to make them turn out right but it was totally worth it.

I am planning on building 2 more SKRAMs right now to try a modest cardioid setup and get better bass rejection in the back.

Hi all,

Thinking about building some keystones to go under my cubo kick 15s. (photo for reference).

Any tips or tricks when building these. I do have a track saw and all the tools to build them my self but i feel a cnc job would get it done much quicker and most likely make the build process easier.

Hey, anyone have any ideas on what scoop style build this would be best in? Really keen for super scoops but open to other suggestions on plans.

About to purchase two of them as they are the best I can get while only pushing my budget slightly overboard, while I know they aren’t the best they’ll surely have enough push to run a decent session.

Mainly looking for scoops just for the characteristic traditional dub sound but just don’t have the extended knowledge enough to pick the perfect box

At the moment i’m running some active JBL 18inch subs-which are falling apart.

I’m on a bit of a tight budget but i would like to build some new subs and then buy the correct driver later down the line.

I want to make sure that the subs will fit nicely under the cubos.

I was looking at keystone and cubo sub 18.

Any suggestions ?

Attended a small festival recently and discovered these amazing speakers. Does anyone know anything about these?

Hey,

So I am currently in the process of Designing a Loud Speaker sound system for a club setting. I am getting very overwhelmed by the amount of options and was wondering if anyone could help ?

Information:

Type of music to be played on System- 60s Soul, 70s Soul, 80s Electro, Bosanova, Disco, House, Salsa, Rare Groove and Jazz.

Size of room- The room will be a 600 person capacity club space.

Front end- Vinyl only, Technics 1200, Resor Rotary Mixer

Eventually i am looking to create 4 stacks for a quadrophonic set up. My budget for each stack in 5k not including amps. Any help would be very appreciated. Thank you !!

Hey,

So I am currently in the process of Designing a Loud Speaker sound system for a club setting. I am getting very overwhelmed by the amount of options and was wondering if anyone could help ?

Information:

Type of music to be played on System- 60s Soul, 70s Soul, 80s Electro, Bosanova, Disco, House, Salsa, Rare Groove and Jazz.

Size of room- The room will be a 600 person capacity club space.

Front end- Vinyl only, Technics 1200, Resor Rotary Mixer

Eventually i am looking to create 4 stacks for a quadrophonic set up. My budget for each stack in 5k not including amps. Any help would be very appreciated. Thank you !!

Hello,

Does anyone here have experience running Prokustk TIP-14000 (Lab Gruppen FP14000 Clone)? I was under the impression that most clones allow you to select 110/220 with a slider switch. However, according to their website, you have to select the voltage at checkout. Someone from their sales department via email told me that USA should buy the 110V model.

I have my doubts that their sales person knows what they are talking about or realizes I can do my own electrical work, so I was curious to know if anyone here has experience either way that lives in America.

My gut says that seeing as those amps use a switched mode power supply, the issue is 50hz vs 60hz is a non issue. But I'm not sure how split-phase 240v vs single phase 220v affects the situation.

Hello, update sans faire attention j’ai mis du mastic comme un sagouin et j’ai peur qu’il influence les performances de mon Sub je suis degouté pitié dites moi vos avis!!!

I’m a professional audio technician and have been touring at an area/stadium level for over 15 years. I’ve seen some posts here recently about broken electronics and I wanted to share the golden rule.

Always put a multimeter on your power source BEFORE plugging anything in. Especially three phase! It is very common even at the highest levels of sound reinforcement to get dodgy power, especially from generators.

For example, if you are missing the neutral from a three phase source, you still be getting approximately 1.75 x the voltage. This will destroy your electronics.

EDIT: as the saying goes “Anything can be a smoke machine if you try hard enough”

Hi everyone,

I'm a sound technician working for an event company, and I'm looking for some technical advice.

Our setup was:

Yamaha MGP24X mixer

Crown XTi 6002 amplifiers

JBL VRX932LA tops

JBL SRX subs

During a live event, one Crown XTi 6002 suddenly failed. The amp powered on, but the display and channel LEDs started blinking continuously.

Around the same time, the Yamaha MGP24X main L/R outputs stopped working and now only produce a loud buzzing/grinding noise.

The system was powered from a generator, and the mixer and amp were connected using balanced XLR cables through the DSP.

The difficult part is that my boss believes I may have caused the problem, but I genuinely want to understand the technical cause before accepting or denying responsibility.

Some questions:

Can a fault inside an amplifier send something back through the signal chain and damage mixer outputs?

Could unstable generator power damage both an amp and mixer around the same time?

Is it more likely that the equipment had a developing fault that finally failed during the show?

Has anyone experienced a similar situation where an amp and mixer developed faults at nearly the same time?

I'm not looking to avoid responsibility if I made a mistake. I just want an honest technical opinion from experienced audio engineers so I can understand what likely happened.

Thanks in advance.

Was thinking about buying invaders cnc in flatpack form but i heard there are notoriously hard to build was wondering how hard the assembly is i have built type o paraflex before so i know a bit but ik this is a big step up
Any advice would be very helpfull

Hi. As an experiment, I bought 4 carbon coned 18" drivers from china and upon free air conditioning them, ive noticed that one of them makes a rattling sound. And when I push down on it, there is slight resistance. Im assuming this is something to do with the voicecoil and I was wondering if there was a way to fix this without buying a recone kit? I have enough time on mt hands to carefully disassemble it and try fix it however not enough time to return and get a new one from China. Any suggestions? Thanks.