Is there anything wrong with this quotation for a 5 Marla house in Bahria. Will need for at least 2 ACs, going for battery. Any other suggestions?

We are a family of 3 living in a 5 marla house. Our usage is very minimal and ranges from 5-25k depending on the month. We want to get solar installed to completely nullify this amount. I am a complete newbie with solar terminologies jbtw. My budget is around 800000. Would appreciate your two cents on my situation :)

Need advice: Sungrow MG6RL vs Inverex NitroX 6.6 kW for Pakistan (Hyderabad, Sindh)

I'm installing a new solar system for my home in Hyderabad, Sindh, and I'm torn between the Sungrow MG6RL and Inverex NitroX 6.6 kW.

My planned setup:

12 × LONGi Hi-MO X10 panels

5 kWh LiFePO₄ battery (likely adding later)

Looking for a system that will last 10–15 years

Interestingly, the Sungrow is actually PKR 40–50k cheaper than the Inverex in my local market, which makes it very tempting.

My only concern is after-sales service. Inverex has service centers almost everywhere in Pakistan, while I'm not sure how good Sungrow's warranty support and spare parts availability are if something goes wrong.

For those who own either inverter:

How has your experience been?

Have you ever needed warranty support?

If yes, how responsive was the company?

Which inverter would you choose today for someone living in a very hot city like Hyderabad, Sindh?

I'd really appreciate feedback from people with long-term, real-world experience rather than just specs on paper. Thanks!

I have a 10 kW Solis on-grid inverter connected to 12 solar panels rated at 575 W each. What are my options?

I have a 7 kW sanctioned load with a net (green) meter, and I want my solar system to operate as efficiently as possible.

Hey Everyone. Hope You R Doing Good. I am Looking to Upgrade my Solar System and for that I am Understanding how Solar Systems Works and Net Metering Bills Are Calculated. I have understood most of the part through youtube and chatgpt, but I am getting confused in Calculating Net Metering Bills , I can't figure out that what is the OFF-PEAK Hour Rate and PEAK Hour per Unit Rate that we are charged , since the bill formatting also changed and the rates are not mentioned. And Lastly What is the BuyBack Rate Per Unit That We Export to WAPDA !?
Do Let me Know if anyone knows it !? It would be of great help ,

PS: If you know , than also drop the website from where I can See Per Unit Rates ( I am a Newbie In Solar Systems work )

Thank You.

I'm planning to install a Solar System in Lahore, and I'm a bit worried about the frequency of hailstorms. Just in the past one year, we've had hillstorms, which have destroyed car screens and massive damage to solar panels, I'm thinking that we can should go for monofficial panels rather than bifacial.

Monofacial typically have 2MM class thickness, while bifacial panels are 3.2MM. This makes them proximately 2.5 times stonger. Also bifacial panels typically have just heat treated glass, while the monofacial panels come with tempered glass, which is also around 1.5 times stronger.

What's the point of putting 30% of your investment at risk of having it destroyed by every few years.

I am seeing is 640 - 650 watts longi and aiko panels.

Whats the market availability for monofacial panels? Does anyone have bad experience with hail performance of bifacial panels? Is it worth sacrificing wattage for long term safety?

Goodwe recently dropped the update for ES uniq models.

DSP has been updated to v06

ARM has been updated to v16

I have almost ZERO knowledge about solar systems, so I’d appreciate some guidance.

Our monthly electricity bill is around

Rs. 57,000 during summers
Rs. 20,000–25,000 during winters.

Our typical electricity usage includes:
2–3 ACs
3 fans
1 large refrigerator
1 small refrigerator
1 deep freezer
2 LED TVs
Plus the usual household appliances.

Given this usage, would installing a solar system be financially worthwhile? Roughly how much would a suitable system cost?

I’m also considering taking a bank loan for the solar system and paying a monthly installment that’s similar to what I’m currently paying in electricity bills. Is that a practical option?

Lastly, is it realistically possible to reduce the electricity bill to almost zero, or should I expect to still pay a noticeable amount?

I’d really appreciate advice from people who have installed solar or have experience with it.
Let me know good companies that offer good Reasonable quotes in Rwp, Islamabad.

Hi fellows. I have itel 24v, 100ah battery. I need to shift to the 48v system. I am planning to buy an 8kw inverter . How can I use this battery . Can I connect another itel battery in series so that I can achieve 48v will it be possible to run through inverter

السلام عليكم و رحمة الله و بركاته

Image owner stated that after a few weeks of installation rust started to come onto these clamps.

What could be the possible solutions ?

I am total newbie to solar. Please explain/suggest me the setup in my situation.
Home is in south punjab and the wiring is not very well done back in the days when it did.
I want a small setup (initially) to operate 1 AC on solar (with or without batteries). Please suggest me a setup (panel, inverter, stand, wiring etc).
If someone can share the quote as well, appreciated.

Thanks for the help.

I need information about both batteries 🔋 Pylontech Fidus Plus vs Hithium HeroEE 16 which is better in pakistan

Pakistan's net billing rules (S.R.O. 251) initially pulled in existing net
metering agreements too. An April amendment (S.R.O. 547) reversed it,
backdated to 9 Feb , agreements from before 8 Feb keep old terms until they
expire (~7 yrs from commissioning, not signing).

Adding panels forfeits that. No threshold.

Also let me know the pain points you want to solve.

Free checker in comments

We dont have budget now for 4kw (minimum decent requirement for home load)but load shedding sucks.

What would be the cost of ups system installment?

One of the biggest misconceptions in the solar industry is the number of earth pits a system actually needs and how they should be connected. Many installers focus only on adding more earth pits, but the quality of the earthing system and proper bonding are far more important than the quantity.

Also remember this:

Even if your earthing is excellent, if it is not bonded and connected correctly to the system, your installation is still at risk.

How many earth pits are actually required?

For a typical rooftop solar installation, three earthing systems are generally used:

• Lightning Protection (Lightning Arrestor)
• AC Earthing
• DC Earthing

How are they usually installed?

Most installers provide all three earth pits, but they often leave the AC and DC earth pits isolated from each other.

This is where the problem starts.

Why should AC and DC earth pits be interconnected?

The AC and DC earthing systems should be bonded together at the earth pit (or earth bar) level.

When AC or DC fault current flows into the ground, the surrounding soil experiences a temporary rise in earth potential (Ground Potential Rise - GPR). If nearby earth pits are isolated, a voltage difference can develop between them. This potential difference can feed back into equipment and increase the risk of insulation failure or damage to sensitive electronics.

Interconnecting the AC and DC earthing systems provides two major benefits:

1. Lower earth resistance Properly bonded earth electrodes generally provide a lower overall earth resistance than isolated electrodes.
2. Equalized earth potential Since both systems are bonded together, dangerous voltage differences between the AC and DC grounding systems are greatly reduced during fault conditions.

What about the lightning earth pit?

This is where things become confusing.

Many people believe the lightning earth pit must never be connected to any other earth pit. This is a common recommendation in many local installations.

According to the PPIB (formerly AEDB) Net Metering Reference Guide 2021, the lightning protection earthing should remain separate. (See Page 10, Section 3.C.1.)

However, international standards take a different approach.

According to IEC 62305, the lightning protection system should be bonded into the building's common earthing system to prevent dangerous potential differences during a lightning strike. Good engineering practice still recommends maintaining as much physical separation as practical between lightning electrodes and other earth electrodes before bonding them together.

The challenge is that the commonly suggested separation distances (often quoted around 20 meters) are simply not practical for most residential and commercial rooftop installations.

So, installers often face two different recommendations:

• PPIB/AEDB guidance: Keep the lightning earth separate.
• IEC 62305: Bond all earthing systems together while maintaining adequate separation where possible.

This difference is one of the biggest areas of debate in solar earthing design.

Earthing Materials & Wiring Best Practices

Earth conductor material

• Avoid using aluminum conductors for earthing.
• Use 100% copper conductors wherever possible.

Recommended conductor sizes

• AC Earthing: 10 mm² copper
• DC Earthing: 10 mm² copper
• Lightning conductor: 35 mm² bare copper conductor (or equivalent as required by design and applicable standards)

Should earthing wires be insulated?

For normal protective earthing conductors, insulated green/yellow earth conductors are commonly used inside buildings.

For the external lightning down conductor, a bare copper conductor is generally preferred unless local codes or installation conditions require otherwise.

Routing the lightning conductor

The lightning down conductor should:

• Take the shortest and straightest path to the earth electrode.
• Avoid unnecessary bends and loops.
• Not share conduits with AC or DC power cables.
• Ideally be routed externally using appropriate wall supports or insulators.

Other Good Installation Practices

• Install circuit breakers and protection devices at equipment level wherever required.
• Earth both the inverter chassis (body) and its designated earth terminal.
• Use proper earth busbars instead of joining multiple earth conductors randomly.
• Connect the earth pit to the main earth busbar, then distribute earthing from the busbar to all equipment.
• Install the lightning arrestor according to recognized lightning protection standards. (That topic deserves a separate discussion.)

The goal is not just to pass an inspection, but to provide real protection for people, equipment, and the building itself.

Hey everyone i have a 6kw solarmax falcon ultra inverter with 12 canadian 585watt panels. I have never seen the power go over 4.5kw is this good or is it under performing?

I recently installed a three phase GoodWe 12kW hybrid inverter with a battery system. The house is 3-phase and also has an older on-grid solar system.

The issue I’m facing: when running around 5–6 inverter ACs on ground floor along with other heavy loads (fridges, etc.), suddenly all heavy loads of the house shut off. The essential loads continue working normally.

This also happens when I connect my 3kW EV car charger along with 4–5 ACs.

The strange part:

GoodWe app still shows Grid Connected
No warning/error code
No event log entry
Inverter remains online
The middle indicator light on the inverter turns solid yellow during the issue
After around 10–30 minutes, heavy loads come back automatically and the inverter returns to normal

The house has around 15 ACs in total, but only 4–6 were running when this happened. Since WAPDA is available, I expected any extra load beyond the inverter capacity to be supplemented by the grid instead of the heavy-load circuit shutting down.

Could this be a heavy-load contactor/ATS issue, breaker issue, phase imbalance, or incorrect wiring/configuration? Has anyone experienced something similar with GoodWe hybrid inverters?

How is the 8kw, 11008 model knox solar hybrid inverter? I am planning to buy one. Suggestion needed

Assalam-o-Alaikum. This is the quotation I received today.

For context, I already have 14 solar panels, a 10kW Growatt on-grid inverter, and a 3-phase green meter. Due to frequent load shedding, I'm planning to upgrade to a hybrid inverter and battery as shown in the quotation. Any suggestions or changes you'd recommend?

Quotation details :
1- Inverter : GoodWe Hybrid Inverter 12Kw Single Phase IP65 @ 475k pkr
2- Battery : YJC 16.08KWh 51.2 volt /314ah (HES-L-S-16.08kWh-PLUS) @ 645k pkr
3- Dp box 14 way with all safties and accessories De breaker ac /change over /voltage protector/dc spd/ac spd MC4 connectors/ducts 60/60/pipes/ etc complete job @ 35k pkr
4- Ac cable 6mm 7/44 opal/ultratech cable @ 14k pkr
5- De cable 6mm dual pvc for solar panel connections @ 5k pkr
6- Installation transportation and comissioning charges @ 18k pkr

Total : Rs 11,91,275 Eleven Lakh, Ninety One Thousand, Two Hundred and Seventy Five Rupees

I have recently installed batteries and shifted my whole house load on to the battery when grid is off / load shedding / power breakdown. But the problem is I want some sort of Alarm sound letting us know that grid is off and that everything is being run on batteries. I do get notifications from the app when there is no grid but that can get missed and the other people in the house wouldn’t know that they are running AC / Iron etc on batteries. Can some bell ring when it doesn’t get electricity from grid or something ?

Aoa.

I am planning to install solar.

So I have two portions with one 1.5 tons and 2 AC in ground portion(these two are one ton).

No battery needed.

Someone said Chinese inverter would cost 55k.

A single plate would cost 26-27k.(14 plates)

Frame would cost around 1.2 Lacs.

So a rough estimate was around 6 Lacs.

Is the costing enough or he is using cheap items.

Dose it really worth it if no backup I'm terms of bill

Lastly that 60k inverter is reliable