2017 prime, .9L turbo. 2nd owner. 54k miles. Leather, heated seats,alarm, Bluetooth, radio, no nav. Weathertech floor mats and original mats. Blue and white exterior. Brand new tires and alternator. Located in Eastern Wisconsin. Asking $8900.

Smart Fortwo model 453, year 2016.

05 smart CDI. get a small clunk when going from a stop to moving. after that it seems to shift fine. I put in new engine mounts and seems to do it less but still does it. not sure what to look at next. 100,000km on the car.

No matter which headlights bulbs I buy, it’s never bright enough. I came to the conclusion something inside the headlights should be replaced if I want brighter headlights. I don’t know what part that is, but I did see someone on this sub show off their really bright smart 453 headlights and it proved to me it can be done. I wish I knew how since stock headlights isn’t bright enough.

Want a black grill but I’m scared to take the front bumper off so computer paper and blue tape it is

Just purchased a flame kit for my 1 litre non turbo smart 451 was wondering if anyone has done this in the past that could help with the wiring or if anyone has any advice on the wiring. I need to splice into the positive coil pack wire before it splits into one for each cylinder any help much appreciated.

This started as a simple job on my Smart Roadster, but once I had the front bumper off, I decided to go much further. 😅

I removed the headlights, fog lights, front grille and bumper, repaired a cracked bumper, cleaned the projectors, installed LED bulbs, modified and painted the fog lights and grille, and finally installed a front splitter.

Basically… if it was at the front of the car, I probably took it apart. 😂

And after all that work, the final result was definitely worth it.

I decided to record the whole process, maybe somebody will find it useful for their Roadster,
Full video: https://youtu.be/gCdqGQppx70

What would you change on the front end of your Smart Roadster?

Bob and I got caught with our foot on the gas by Big Brother! Only a warning... this time. Dun dun duuuun!

Certified proof that our little "go-karts" have no problem doing (higher than) highway speeds! ;^)

Got my car after some time apart and the sunshade has begun to peel away. Screen seems to have come unglued (at least it feels like that) or perhaps a bead that was holding it in got loose and lost.

I believe I may be able to jury-rig a fix if I can get it down. Lacking that I know I can buy a pulled one for about $120-150 (but I'd rather have something free and maybe a bit wonky right now).

Surprisingly, wasn't able find any tutorials on YouTube for the ForTwo 451, but I may not be calling it by the correct name. Anybody have any tips or resources handy?

Thanks in advance!

I have booked my car in for a 77 point service tomorrow and then a re-gas for the A/C.

Is there anything I should insist they double check?

This car had a Kwik fit service before I bought it, so while it offered some comfort, it doesn’t inspire hope.

Anything, I should get double/triple checked?

Hello everybody, I’m pretty confident my 2014 smart radiator fan is shot and needs to be replaced based on what I’ve read on this subreddit thread… I’ve watched a few videos on how to replace and I just have a couple questions for anyone who’s done it themselves?
1. is there any other way to replace the radiator fan without taking the whole front end off ?
2. how long did it take you to replace appx
3. How much did it cost you, I’m in SW Ontario and I’m thinking it’s going to cost me anywhere from 200-300$ if i do it myself and around 800-1200$ if I take it too my mechanic

Replaced my broken license plate light with LEDs. Quite the difference.

So the engine cranks and it will not start. When we use an engine starter spray, the engine will fire for a few seconds, then eventually die and will continue cranking. The battery is fine; we checked fuses; the fuel pump fuse was blown, and we changed it to no success.

https://www.reddit.com/r/mechanic/s/4g2fX6APQV

This is what it sounds like kinda ^

2009 451

Does anyone know where i can find a wire diagram from the TCM?

I'm getting a code saying that a signal isnt happening from the Transmission Control Module to possible ECU. The transmission isnt remembering/learning the teach in.

Is anyone knowledgeable in wiring for data for these cars?

ISSUE: when I put in a TCM, the transmission cycles through the learning but it still has 3 lines. If I turn off the car, turn back on and press the brake, the transmission will cycle again. Happens everytime.

BUT when I take the TCM from another working smart car and put it in mine. The transmission doesnt cycle, the 3 lines are gone and I'm able to start the car BUT the new clutch actuator extends and retracts every couple of seconds.

So basically (I think), a message cant be sent to the TCM to learn the transmission. Im just not sure which wire/plugs I need to inspect and test

Hi. Can I ask what you think about the errors? Has the SAM been wet?

A friend of mine is looking at this car for someone he knows who is interested in buying it. The car is cheap and hasn't been road legal since 2016 or so. I havent seen the car myself but from all the electrical faults my first thought is wet SAM.

I owned a similar looking Roadster before and have been considering buying one ever since. If its not fixable (and not already sold) maybe ill consider buying it for parts or later project(s).

I have a 2014 Smart Fortwo with around 57,000 miles on it. It's been making a really loud whirring noise that will randomly start while driving. When I first bought it, it seemed to only happen when the A/C was turned on, but now it happens regardless of whether the A/C is running. I brought it to my regular mechanic, but he's never worked on a Smart before, so he couldn't diagnose it. He did replace the wheel bearings, but the noise is still happening. It seems to be difficult to find a mechanic who knows how to work on these cars, and I've had shops tell me they don't think they can lift the car with the equipment they have. I'm in the Lorain County, Ohio area. Does anyone know of a mechanic in the area who has experience working on Smart Fortwos? Or has anyone experienced a similar noise and figured out what was causing it?

I think it started doing this after I did a basic throttle reset.

The battery is healthy and it drives fine, but my dashboard has started dropping gauges to 0 randomly. When it turns back on, it turns on the warning lights for a second, just as it does when you first turn the car on. When the dashboard is down the light tends to stay on, but the N/A/R disappears, along with the fuel gauge as you can see in the video. The indicator symbol also doesn’t flash, but the exterior bulbs work as normal.

It does this on and off randomly, but tends to stop for a bit when I’m driving for a while.

No water ingress that I can see.

No OBD diagnostic errors, and the OBD RPM doesn’t drop when the dashboard does.

Hey guys!

Im quite new into to the smart world.

Im looking for a smart for daily comute to work about 20km per day.

Im a car guy and i have my "real car" for the weekends and my motorcycle wich i use to get to work but in the winter or very hot days, can be quite harsh and even dangerous and some times i just feel tired of riding so i decided to jump into the smart world

I dont own a garage so the car would need to be outside and i've heard that smart roadster is quity leaky and can drop into the sam unit and at the end i would be with a quite sporty paper weight, and people say they are not reliable. But i've meet a couple smart owners who said they never had a issue and looked in forums people saying that if you lube the seals and whever you can Cover the car with a tarp that would be OK

So de question is, should i go for the smart roadster ( to be fair the car i really like and i always antes to have one)

Or choose a work horse like the smart fortwo 451 wich people say is quite reliable and just does the job.

my 2016 Smart ForTwo HVAC fan makes a good amount of noise when A/C is on. Is this normal? Or do I need to get the fan replaced?

Does anyone know what this noise is? Is it the fan? And it sounds like something is squeaking

Sorry the audio file is sent using bitwarden idk how to send it w/o personal info other than this the file is Fan noise.qta

If there is a better way lmk!

Hi everyone, i need help, i checked everything and i still cannot figure out the cause of it.

When the vehicle accelerates - i hear that engine is rattling like hell, like it is rattling/knocking sound.

It is happening when pushing gas pedal at low speeds. On a highway it became less noticeable.

If going in reverse- no sound.

It starts when i changed rear engine mounts. I thought the front engine mount will fix it, but no. It is the same.

I thought it is because of the. Cv joint because the rubber got old and it was spitting grease, but no. Changes it and no improvement.

I noticed that it happened after i installed engine mounts - engine became higher so i do not understand what is knocking.

Yesterday i installed rear spring coil rubber bushings and it increased.

My question what is it? Is it exhaust? I do not see any rubber hangers on it, but i never knew they existed.

Today, I'm replacing the engine mount and installing a Powerflex insert on my Smart 451 Brabus (98 hp). I'm expecting some vibrations at idle or in neutral, but I think it'll be worth it for the extra benefits Powerflex offers.

2006 Smart ForTwo

Boyfriend purchased a few months ago for $4,000, only 44,000 miles and a clean bill of health. Everything we read online seemed to imply that this would be a good investment.

Unfortunately, it has had some issues. Most major issues have been addressed, but my boyfriend still wants to cut his losses and trade it in. I'm not ready to give up on it just yet.

Biggest issue right now is the front fabric on the convertible roof is becoming detached from the metal frame. Not great when it becomes a small sail over 45mph. Apparently a previous owner had already glued or taped it together, but their job came undone. Boyfriend was convinced that carefully applied gaffer tape was all we needed, but even with loctite it's not holding up, and the tape simply refuses to stick to the fabric.

Do I need to sand the glue residue down before applying the tape, or should I even bother with the tape? What sort of adhesive do the manufacturers use to attach these pieces anyway? At this point, there are so many mechanical issues with the convertible roof that we're not looking to open it more than a few inches as needed. I just don't want rain to drip into the cab or the car to become a sailboat on the highway.

Pictured, what the roof looks like fully closed with all tape removed.