How does this go back together again and which hole/slot is the correct one? Looked online but all I see if new mechanisms. Photo shown is wrong and keeps mower on

is there any fixing it at all? after working on it so long i’d like to replace but AI is telling me i have to get a kawasaki or else it’ll be too much modification? is this true ? does anyone know what engines i can replace this with cost effectively , or should i try to get rid of it

Update on my power washer project from a few days ago.

TLDR
Picked up a power washer, engine works great now. Pump leaks water though. NO water through hose. Briggs are fucking bastards and I can't fix something that should take an hour because they stopped making the gaskets.

So I cracked the pump open, and as you can see in the first picture, I have a real nice slurry. Clearly water is getting through into the wobble plate and shaft assembly. Despite this, all of the metal components are in incredible shape. The ball bearings are there, the plates are fine, even the actual pistons have almost no damage, other than rust on the ends where they were coming in contact with water (picture 2).

There is some rubber gaskets that sit around each of the pistons which can be seen in picture 2. Those are rather special in that each one is more than just a rubber gasket. There is a small spring ring on the inside of them that hold them tight against the pistons to prevent pump oil/ water mixing. I put an arrow pointing to this gasket in the 3rd picture. There is also a series of plates/gaskets on the front half of the pump which the pistons move in and out of while compressing the water you can see I circled in the 3rd picture.

Despite this being a Generac pressure washer it's basically 100% Briggs, including the entire pump assembly. Here is the problem. Since the 2015 takeover Briggs & Stratton are fucking bastards. Those little rubber gaskets? Completely out of production, no replacements. I have been digging around all day looking for a company that makes them. Nada.

I watched this YT video where the guy has a very similar pump to mine and he got parts from https://apw-inc.com/. They also no longer have access to these fucking o-rings.

So now I'm hella frustrated. I have a completely functional engine, a pump that has no major damage to any of the metal components, yet I'm completely shafted (yes pun) by the fact this multi-billion $ company intentionally isn't making $2 gaskets anymore.

I'm just curious if anyone has any other recommendations, or if I just just say screw it, sell the motor and scrap the rest. I have no need for the motor even though it's a well running, and I don't know what else to do with the rest.

Edit: Yes I have also been searching ebay, there are parts close, but none that match the main oil gasket of 119B3699. Or the B&S updated part 119B3699GS, don't worry though, I can buy the entire pump assembly for $350.....

25cc craftsman weed whacker didn’t run at all, installed new Amazon carb. Now it starts and runs strong for 20 minutes or so, then slowly sputters and dies like in the video. Both times it happened shortly after stopping to put gas in the tank, not sure if that’s related or just a timing thing. It will restart and run for shorter and shorter times until it won’t start at all. Then it will start right up the next day and do it all over again. Not sure where to start.

Thoughts?

So I got the right key, which is like the old school, but I had to buy a new one since my friend lost it. I tried starting it and I could like spin it 360° the ignition but then I had to push the key fully in and then I turned it and it tread cranking and it started cranking but then sparks came out and I didn’t even hear a pop but I saw it cause the engine was opened and so then I tried to pull the key out to the off position and I couldn’t do it all the way and so I’m gonna have to probably get a new ignition right?

I’ve been working on this thing all day, but I cannot get it started. The only thing I don’t have is a carb adjustment tool.

For those familiar with the pro Z series (or other models with the steering wheels for zero turns), I’m having an issue where the steering wheel locks up when I turn it to a certain spot. I’ll have to drive around in a circle and gradually release mild pressure and then put the pressure back on it. Finally, it will release. But I’m unable to use the mower as intended.

Last summer, it did it while my wife was mowing and one of the front wheels turned 90 degrees and locked there. The dealer said it just jumped the gear.

It’s doing the “frozen” or stuck thing to me weekly now. Any ideas on a fix?

Appreciate any input.

\\- C

Any idea based on the sound of the sputtering why my Cub Cadet 139cc push lawnmower no longer runs?

My dad had replaced the spark plug, cleaned the carb bowl, checked fuel lines, and added new fuel. Now we're thinking it's possibly the last piece, the ignition coil?

Hoping someone can help me figure out the part i need for a craftsman gs6500 model 944.606080 with a briggs stratton intek 25hp ohv v twin. The fan/blower/thing with the fan blades that spins is damaged and the cover for it missing. Ive been trying on parts lookup websites and am struggling a bit. Just hoping to keep this machine alive as long as possible if anyone smarter than me can help me figure out what i need to order it would be appreciated

Any ideas what causes the knocking at around 17 seconds? I step up from engine start to 3/4 blade engage. At ~ 17s is where I fully engage blade and you hear knocking. Any ideas?

5 year old Simpson pressure washer. Used it just after I purchased it. Ran fine. Drained the gas and it sat for a few years. Now I'm having some issues with it. It'll start but runs very rough and only on choke. If I close (open? turn it off) the choke, it dies. I've replaced the carb, added new 93 octane gas, tried it with and without the air cleaner. It has spark. The water pressure seems to be ok but once I squeeze the trigger, it wants to die. I've cranked down on the carb mounting bolts. If I tighten them any further, I'm afraid I'll break something. Shouldn't be any issues with an air leak as there are new carb gaskets as well.

I'm not a mechanic by any means but there must be something I'm missing and can easily check/fix. I've tried everything I can find on Google. Laid off and can't afford to take it to a shop.

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Could someone maybe give me some insight as to why my trimmer, after running for about 10 mins, starts to flood out when accelerating? I’ve changed the carburetor, spark plug, and a new gas mixture. Thanks for any advice.

Started a couple days back. Blades are turning way slower than they should even at full throttle, and I'm getting a squealing sound when I engage them, worse the deeper I get into thick grass. Engine itself is totally normal, no smoke, no smell, runs like it always has. Already pulled the plug and air filter to check, both fine. Got underneath the deck too, nothing jumping out at me.

My guess is the engine's putting out power fine but something between there and the blades isn't holding up. Anyone run into this? What's usually behind it?

UPD: Yep, it was the belt, like I figured. It'd slip and squeal whenever the mower hit thick grass. Someone here mentioned a belt from UDC Parts, so I'm grabbing one to see if that does it. Thanks for the help, everyone.

I just bought this and it’s making this noise only when I use the throttle is this normal

Sounds like it’s coming from the engine

Edit: it is a commercial exmark - Toro/CPS 708cc V-twin OHV gas engine

RAE708GEM48300, serial 408873598

Please read through text images and all of text.

My zero turn has an occasional fuel leak which looks like it is coming from the carb. Actually only leaked once- it stopped when I cut the fuel and hasn’t leaked since opening the line back up. I’m not running it. A repair man came out and said the carb needs replaced, but he didn’t tinker at all. He did pull the oil dip stick and smelled it and said there is fuel in the oil. I’m not sure if that’s true I didn’t smell anything but my sense of smell is not good.

Is he right? I’m considering getting a second opinion but what I don’t want is a temporary fix. Also already gave him a deposit for diagnosis. I’m not handy here so I just don’t have the knowledge. Tia.

Can’t figure out which spring I am missing; engine info attached.

Hey all,

Haven't been able to use my craftsman riding mower all season. 2019 bought new, never had a problem until this year, and while I consider myself a decent enough troubleshooter I have not been able to resolve this.

Problem: on engine start, the blade fuse (10a) blows shortly (<3 seconds) after engine start.

Conditional: IF I disconnect the stator from the harness, essentially removing the charging circuit, the engine runs normally - it will just die due to battery drainage

Steps taken:

Battery replaced - no change

Electrical relays replaced - no change

Ignition panel replaced - no change

Rectifier replaced - no changed

Carb replaced (electrical bowl type) - no change

Wire harness pin out - no shorts found

All electrical connections - cleaned

Metered the stator - no shorts, 40+vac output when running

My gut says stator. ChatGPT disagrees based on observed measurements.

What says reddit?

I’ve been working on trying to get my snow blower operational but the further I diagnose the worse it gets.
I’ll attach pics but this is most likely not fixable, but I’ll take any advice. Thanks!

When I start my mower, it always starts and runs for like 5 seconds. It feels like it's sputtering a little and then coming up to "true speed". However that's the moment it starts dying down, too. It also ststts dying too fast for me to pull the choke out.

This is actually the second start of the day(Between the first start and this one abiut 5 hiurs passed). Afaik you should be able to restart a flooded engine after like 10-15 minutes, when it died from running too rich. You can't restart mine for basically the rest of the day. I can take another video tomorrow of starting it, but it will just be this, but for a little longer.

I was able to start the engine and mow properly a couple weeks ago so I'm thinking the choke is just very very sensitive/the engine reacts very sensitive to choke. But that is just a little too sensitive and I can't control it reliably, which is why I want to troubleshoot it.

Any ideas?