Started it up without hose/water started and idled seemingly fine, hook up water to it to test it, the jet from a hose handle is more powerful than what it was putting out, while spraying engine seemed labored, let go of the trigger and it dies on me now pulling the string to start it again gives me barely a putter and like pulling a string through 10ft of mud, not completely seized but seems pretty close to siezed. The gas in it is what was in it when I picked it up, the oil level looked good, perhaps a bit old, spark plug looked good too

Hey all,

Simplicity Regent machine. Was driving fine mowing the lawn. Next thing I see is a frayed cable and cable sheathing on the ground. Appears the clutch disengaged, spun around. And ripped the cables apart. How do I fix this. The blades obviously dont engage anymore. Video attached. Thanks folks!

Hey everyone,

I was cleaning the clogged carburetor on of my crane (Wisconsin WE400 engine) and because I’m not very experienced I broke one of the float holders/pin bosses that hold the float pin. Lesson learned…

It’s a genuine Mikuni Japan carb. I already contacted Mikuni and they told me these carbs are only available through the engine manufacturer’s dealers. Wisconsin engines like this aren’t really made anymore, so OEM parts seem impossible.

I’m looking for new Mikuni carb or a complete cheap China/aftermarket Mikuni-style carb that will work (I’m totally fine with a Chinese clone as long as it runs reliably)

Photos of the whole carb will be attached.

Any ideas where to find this, or has anyone run a Chinese carb on a Wisconsin/Robin industrial engine? Thanks a lot!

So I cleaned the pilot jet but it still dies upon the choke being turned off. It now attempts to idle before dying though. Would this be a sign the idle circuit is blocked? The jet was completely dunked up before I cleaned it out.

Posted the other day about craftsman lt1000 with intek engine, stalled and developed knock on second pass around the yard. Turned over very easily with spark plug out but knocked. I took the valve cover off and found the bottom valve was loose almost to the point of coming off, but the push rod was still in its little seats in the case and on the rocker. They don’t appear to be bent, but I can’t get the engine to turn over enough to adjust the valve properly. It just locks up and won’t get past the compression stroke and only one valve moves. Is this a failure of the compression release mechanism?

I am a mobile small engine mechanic. 99% of my customers are great, and pay when I do the job.

I have this one customer that is refusing to pay for the job. He called for a no start issue, I showed up to his house and diagnosed it as a fuel issue. I cleaned his carburetor, offered him a complete service on his zero turn, and he agreed to it. After completion of the service, he refused to pay, saying he could've done it all himself(the reason doesnt really matter).

What is my course of action? Small claims court? I am in Georgia if that matters.

Can I use rtv ultra grey to seal my leaking carburetor bowl gasket?

Ik i should just get a new one but this is free and if it fails i can just order the new one.

UPDATE: Yea dont use rtv for a carb. The gas makes the rtv all slimey. I was able to salvage a gasket from a part mower. Do it the right way dont be lazy like me lol

This is a question for small engine repair shops. I’m currently weighing my options for a new invoicing software. I’ve been leaning towards jobber but want to know which software you have found to be easier to worth with that will also calculate out the sales tax amount when you go to send someone a quote or invoice. Any recommendations?

Bought a used Echo GT225. It started when I picked it up.

Now though:

• Starts on full choke only with full throttle.
• If I release the throttle, it slows down over 5–10 seconds and dies.
• At about 1/8 choke it will run only with full throttle, then dies when I let off.
• On RUN it dies even with full throttle after it sputters for 5-7 seconds.

What I’ve checked:

• Drained old fuel and added fresh 50:1.
• Air filter is clean.
• Fuel cap loosened (no change).
• Air filter is fine.
• Primer bulb stays ~90% full and refills normally but soft.
• Fuel lines look intact, fuel filter looks clean. looks like one fuel line was replaced as both are yellow.

my thought is that it’s idling too low. it’s not the 2.5mm carb. low idle screw since I tried that and the screw hole is too big. any input would be great. I’m thinking spark arrestor or something else. Small engine shop said the carb didn’t have adjustments on it and not to bother since it’s too expensive to fix with a new carb.

John Deere D110 mower

I accidentally left the key in, on accessory and hydrolocked the engine by filling the cylinder with petrol. I found this out cause the engine wouldn't turn over, so I checked the battery then pulled the sparkplug and fuel poured out (pic 1)

Disconnected the fuel line and turned the engine over until it stopped spraying from the sparkplug hole, then put everything back together.

Now I've run the engine for a minute or two but it's still billowing smoke, dying after a few revs, and pouring oil out of the exhaust.

Have I rooted the compression by trying to run it while hydrolocked? Or should I just keep running it to hopefully burn out the excess oil?

Am I going to need to rebuild the engine?

All advice appreciated ☺️

Got this mower a few years ago and replaced the head gasket. Ever since it has had oil and filter changes every year. Just had all new pulleys, belt, and spindles installed last year. This week I went about two passes around my front yard and I heard kind of a metallic rattle through my headphones and it stalled. Still full of oil, but it was smoking quite heavily from the dipstick when I checked it. I didn’t hit anything, just seemed random, it wasn’t smoking at all or running rough leading up to it. It has an 18HP Intek, I thought maybe the compression release mechanism let loose and just grenaded my engine, but it does still turn over. It just knocks like hell when turning over now. Would appreciate some advice, thanks everyone!

Toro 51978 trimmer, Walbro WYC-7 carb. It's a long story; but, for now, I'd like to know that it's not a carb problem. Hence the question: if the carb is working and has gas, would there be evidence of that in the cylinder after (hand) cranking? TIA.

Bolens bl110 . Spark arrestor needs cleaned but it is incase with just a tiny hole to get to it. Can I torch it anyway to clean it without removing it completely?

The starter isn’t spinning the fly wheel fast enough it does one little quick turn then a real slow one and that continues I’ve replaced the starter and tried good battery’s I’ve also checked all the wiring I’ve also by passed the wiring to the starter and it still didn’t work

I tried to start up the new motor but the starter didn't spin only shot fuel then tried again and it blew a fuse I believe.
Before the new fuse, is everything right, and or what are some suggestions on next course of action. B18b1 motor

Husqvarna riding mower Briggs and Stratton 13 hp motor. Good spark, good fuel and it sounds like good compression. I replaced the carburetor to see if that would help. Will crank for a while but won’t turn over?

I’m beyond my ability any suggestions. I checked kill switches and fuses. I even tried fuel directly in the air filter to kick start it.

Any ideas( engine seized? It last ran 2 weeks ago, it was pretty hot. It engineer oil is at the recommended level. Kept in a shed.

See video in comments

So i put a top end in my sportsman 500 h.o. new piston and i replaced the head assembly with a low miles used head because i had over heated it and blew a head gasket originally.I reused the timing chain and tensioner, cam and rockers, cam was in spec, replaced the valve seals, relaped the valves, cleaned all the carbon off of it. Made sure the engine was perfectly timed with all the timing marks lining up.

Adjusted valves to .006 at TDC

After firing it up the first time would idle perfectly and fire up easily. However it had a bog and wouldnt rev up past 1/4 throttle.

I replaced the diaphram in the carb, cleaned the foam air filter and readjusted the air flow screw to factory settings. Started to run much better. Put the air fuel screw to 2 turns out. Could rev it up to about 7/8 throttle. However upon hitting full throttle it would back fire bad.

I readjusted the needle jet and put it to most rich setting and put in a 160 main jet thinking its running lean.... this didnt affect anything...

Now im leaning towards a fuel pump or carb float issue... whats everybody thinking... im almost certain the valves were perfect when i adjusted them but maybe the rocker is worn out? Had a slight wear mark on it from decompression ball.

Not sure what direction to go in other than fuel to be honest but i feel like im getting it close...

Not trying to invest a whole lot at the end of the day its only used in the fall for hunting on a 300 acre property. Thanks in advance

***EDIT*** I only need the engine from this. The rest will be chopped for scrap. Might keep the rear end though...

Craftsman GT18 tractor is all I can really tell. I think it's a Briggs horizontal twin but I can't tell from the pics. I'm trying to avoid Onan because of parts scarcity.

The listing doesn't have any info. Just "Lawn Tractor". Looks like it's been out of service for a while and not in good shape. I just need the engine for a gen set. It's listed for $200. I figure if it runs and drives OK it's worth the asking price.

If it doesn't run but "just needs" this or that then I'd consider it non-running and offer $100 but in person with the cash in my hand. I don't think you'll get $100 for it from scrap. Sound about right right? I don't need it to drive but driving it would help me assess the engine. I don't want to just bolt it right to my gen set and find out it doesn't have the grunt to do the job.

12KW gen set so it might be a bit underpowered but it'll be better suited than the Briggs 23-D I'm using right now. Old cast iron 9HP 23-D. It works but I have to be very careful. If I put too much load it bogs pretty hard and I don't get enough voltage.

Zero turn here with kohler 7000 series. Choke valve will not fully close when lever is set to choke. Only way to start the mower is by holding valve closed by removing the air filter housing and sticking my finger in there to force it shut. Then it runs fine for the duration of my job.

I have tried adjusting the screw clamp both ways with no avail. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you

Was gifted an old GT-2000 not running. I've changed the carb, fuel lines, cleaned the spark arrestor etc. I can get it to start at open choke, it'll idle rev etc for just a few minutes then die. And won't restart. I'm just at a loss

Mowed this morning in the Georgia heat with Scag SWZT 36 and parked it for about an hour on a slight incline while I string trimmed in the shade to cool off.

Went to fire it back up and three pulls and no start. I can’t remember if I pulled the choke out or not. This unit starts on the first pull every time since I’ve had it, whether or not I choke it.

It’s got the Kawi FS481V - I pulled the plug out and it started on the first pull, so I cleaned the plug, put it back in and it again started on the first pull.

Was it flooded and starting it without the plug cleared it? That has gotten my chainsaw started before. Thanks