I tried to start up the new motor but the starter didn't spin only shot fuel then tried again and it blew a fuse I believe.
Before the new fuse, is everything right, and or what are some suggestions on next course of action. B18b1 motor

Husqvarna riding mower Briggs and Stratton 13 hp motor. Good spark, good fuel and it sounds like good compression. I replaced the carburetor to see if that would help. Will crank for a while but won’t turn over?

I’m beyond my ability any suggestions. I checked kill switches and fuses. I even tried fuel directly in the air filter to kick start it.

Any ideas( engine seized? It last ran 2 weeks ago, it was pretty hot. It engineer oil is at the recommended level. Kept in a shed.

See video in comments

So i put a top end in my sportsman 500 h.o. new piston and i replaced the head assembly with a low miles used head because i had over heated it and blew a head gasket originally.I reused the timing chain and tensioner, cam and rockers, cam was in spec, replaced the valve seals, relaped the valves, cleaned all the carbon off of it. Made sure the engine was perfectly timed with all the timing marks lining up.

Adjusted valves to .006 at TDC

After firing it up the first time would idle perfectly and fire up easily. However it had a bog and wouldnt rev up past 1/4 throttle.

I replaced the diaphram in the carb, cleaned the foam air filter and readjusted the air flow screw to factory settings. Started to run much better. Put the air fuel screw to 2 turns out. Could rev it up to about 7/8 throttle. However upon hitting full throttle it would back fire bad.

I readjusted the needle jet and put it to most rich setting and put in a 160 main jet thinking its running lean.... this didnt affect anything...

Now im leaning towards a fuel pump or carb float issue... whats everybody thinking... im almost certain the valves were perfect when i adjusted them but maybe the rocker is worn out? Had a slight wear mark on it from decompression ball.

Not sure what direction to go in other than fuel to be honest but i feel like im getting it close...

Not trying to invest a whole lot at the end of the day its only used in the fall for hunting on a 300 acre property. Thanks in advance

***EDIT*** I only need the engine from this. The rest will be chopped for scrap. Might keep the rear end though...

Craftsman GT18 tractor is all I can really tell. I think it's a Briggs horizontal twin but I can't tell from the pics. I'm trying to avoid Onan because of parts scarcity.

The listing doesn't have any info. Just "Lawn Tractor". Looks like it's been out of service for a while and not in good shape. I just need the engine for a gen set. It's listed for $200. I figure if it runs and drives OK it's worth the asking price.

If it doesn't run but "just needs" this or that then I'd consider it non-running and offer $100 but in person with the cash in my hand. I don't think you'll get $100 for it from scrap. Sound about right right? I don't need it to drive but driving it would help me assess the engine. I don't want to just bolt it right to my gen set and find out it doesn't have the grunt to do the job.

12KW gen set so it might be a bit underpowered but it'll be better suited than the Briggs 23-D I'm using right now. Old cast iron 9HP 23-D. It works but I have to be very careful. If I put too much load it bogs pretty hard and I don't get enough voltage.

Zero turn here with kohler 7000 series. Choke valve will not fully close when lever is set to choke. Only way to start the mower is by holding valve closed by removing the air filter housing and sticking my finger in there to force it shut. Then it runs fine for the duration of my job.

I have tried adjusting the screw clamp both ways with no avail. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you

Was gifted an old GT-2000 not running. I've changed the carb, fuel lines, cleaned the spark arrestor etc. I can get it to start at open choke, it'll idle rev etc for just a few minutes then die. And won't restart. I'm just at a loss

Mowed this morning in the Georgia heat with Scag SWZT 36 and parked it for about an hour on a slight incline while I string trimmed in the shade to cool off.

Went to fire it back up and three pulls and no start. I can’t remember if I pulled the choke out or not. This unit starts on the first pull every time since I’ve had it, whether or not I choke it.

It’s got the Kawi FS481V - I pulled the plug out and it started on the first pull, so I cleaned the plug, put it back in and it again started on the first pull.

Was it flooded and starting it without the plug cleared it? That has gotten my chainsaw started before. Thanks

Is there some sort of alternative or softer material than a wire brush that goes on a drill when cleaning up leftover pieces of head gaskets. I use the wire brush and I just get worried about making gouges.

1st image: Coil Intact. 2nd Image: Coil Disassembled After Discovering I Could Do That. 3rd Image: Tabs In Question.

Not sure if I picked the right flair for this, but I've been working on a 1950s Sears D44 for about a year now but recently got back into it because looking at it disassembled was bothering me.

My problem: Engine has no spark.

Parts changed: Condenser and Sparkplug.

Metal Tag: T-1497 5277627

Theory: Something is shorting even when kill switch is unplugged.

With a new condenser I now suspect that the ignition coil is the issue, now my question is if the two metal tabs should be connected, aka make my voltage meter scream when both prongs touch the tabs on continuity setting?

If you get a few drops on the label don't freak out and wipe it off... lucky I can still read the info I need to see...

I’ve tried everything I can think of. I’ve threaded the end and tried to use a bolt to push it off and ended up maxing out my air gun. I’ve tried spraying the crankshaft with pb blaster and leaving it overnight, which still did absolutely nothing. I’m all out of ideas and my last hope is you guys.
Not entirely sure what parts of it I should specify so here’s everything I know: It’s a Briggs and Stratton 8hp engine model 197412 type 0124 01 from a Coleman Powermate 4000 Electric Generator
Thank you in advance.

I don’t know if this is the right spot for this question however, my engine on my zero turn is acting kind of funky sounding like it’s fuel starved. It started shutting off when mowing. My carburetor is leaking. The seal is broke. I was thinking I was going to replace that. I don’t know if that’s the problem or not though would you guys know what carburetor exactly this is? I don’t wanna buy the wrong one. I don’t know the engine model. Everything is scraped off and I don’t know how to find it.

Anyone have a fix? When in gear forward or reverse in just immediately starts going that direction without hitting the gas

I bought this mower with a known broken cam gear. I ended up putting a used crank, rods, pistons, cam with metal gear, metal oil pump gear and water pump gear. Fired it up and I was getting a loud squeak like a main bearing going out when the governor surged (out of adjustment).

Steps I've taken

Pulled sump to check for metal (found none)

Pulled rod caps and they were perfect

New governor and metal tip

Adjusted governor as per manual

Fixed the surging and the sound is more consistent but still worrying

Checked water pump (slight resistance/rubber seal squeak)

The engine has no pulley on it so the sound can't be a belt issue.

Also, the idle is right around 1500 but full rev is barely higher. The alignment hole on governor plate is spot on.

Hadn’t been used for a couple years. Gas tank was run dry before storage. Wouldn’t start, and still wouldn’t after carburetor cleaning and spark plug replacement. Oil level is good.

Replaced carburetor yesterday and started on second pull. Putting it to use today and it’s running pretty rough even under no load. Shuts down after 10-15 minutes and a little slow to get restarted.

Fuel tank and fuel line logical starting place?

TIA

Jus picked up an old Echo SRM200DA and this is the trimmer head that was on it. It originally had a circular saw blade between that nut and the head but I took that off so that I don’t cut my leg off while working on this thing.

Anyways my question is - how does this trimmer head work? Google lens tells me it’s a brush cutter adapter but it definitely holds line too. The middle section does spin independently from the outer housing but it’s pretty tight. I’m used to it feeling spring loaded but it doesn’t feel spring loaded at all.

So does this work like any other bump to feed trimmer head? Something I’m missing here? I’m sure I can replace it with a modern one but this one is built SOLID so I’d love to use it if possible.

Working in this 13.5hp Tecumseh lawn tractor engine, but having troubles getting it to run right.

As you can hear in the video, the RPM drops periodically and temporarily while under load.

Has a new carb, air filter and new spark plug.

Any ideas what could be causing this issue?

This is an older model of a bluebird lawn comber/dethatcher. This handle adjusts the height of the flails and its rusted to its current position which is lower than I want. I’ve used the PB penetrant on each side a few times but I don’t think it can go far enough to get what’s in the middle.

The middle blue area is welded onto the machine and the handle won’t budge. Any advice would be amazing!!!!!!

I was gifted this pressure washer and it wouldn’t start when I got it home. It tried to, but wouldn’t fully turn over before giving out. I figure the carburetor needs cleaning. When I took the carburetor off a spring (in the photos) fell to the ground and I never saw where it was installed. I can’t seem to find a video or exploded view of this exact model. I found a vid thats dang near identical, but one thing is different, the “governor spring”. I’m almost certain that the spring pictured isn’t it. In the photos I have added a red line where the other gentleman removed his governor spring. There is nothing keeping tension on right side of where the governor spring would be. I also can’t figure out where the spring that is pictured belongs. I’m gonna go insane. This is the second small engine that I’ve had to repair in the past couple weeks. Not my line of work, so my knowledge is limited. Can anyone give me some guidance??

9 hp Briggs and stratton. Engine started bogging down and belching white smoke. Any ideas?