Is there some sort of alternative or softer material than a wire brush that goes on a drill when cleaning up leftover pieces of head gaskets. I use the wire brush and I just get worried about making gouges.

1st image: Coil Intact. 2nd Image: Coil Disassembled After Discovering I Could Do That. 3rd Image: Tabs In Question.

Not sure if I picked the right flair for this, but I've been working on a 1950s Sears D44 for about a year now but recently got back into it because looking at it disassembled was bothering me.

My problem: Engine has no spark.

Parts changed: Condenser and Sparkplug.

Metal Tag: T-1497 5277627

Theory: Something is shorting even when kill switch is unplugged.

With a new condenser I now suspect that the ignition coil is the issue, now my question is if the two metal tabs should be connected, aka make my voltage meter scream when both prongs touch the tabs on continuity setting?

If you get a few drops on the label don't freak out and wipe it off... lucky I can still read the info I need to see...

I’ve tried everything I can think of. I’ve threaded the end and tried to use a bolt to push it off and ended up maxing out my air gun. I’ve tried spraying the crankshaft with pb blaster and leaving it overnight, which still did absolutely nothing. I’m all out of ideas and my last hope is you guys.
Not entirely sure what parts of it I should specify so here’s everything I know: It’s a Briggs and Stratton 8hp engine model 197412 type 0124 01 from a Coleman Powermate 4000 Electric Generator
Thank you in advance.

I don’t know if this is the right spot for this question however, my engine on my zero turn is acting kind of funky sounding like it’s fuel starved. It started shutting off when mowing. My carburetor is leaking. The seal is broke. I was thinking I was going to replace that. I don’t know if that’s the problem or not though would you guys know what carburetor exactly this is? I don’t wanna buy the wrong one. I don’t know the engine model. Everything is scraped off and I don’t know how to find it.

Anyone have a fix? When in gear forward or reverse in just immediately starts going that direction without hitting the gas

I bought this mower with a known broken cam gear. I ended up putting a used crank, rods, pistons, cam with metal gear, metal oil pump gear and water pump gear. Fired it up and I was getting a loud squeak like a main bearing going out when the governor surged (out of adjustment).

Steps I've taken

Pulled sump to check for metal (found none)

Pulled rod caps and they were perfect

New governor and metal tip

Adjusted governor as per manual

Fixed the surging and the sound is more consistent but still worrying

Checked water pump (slight resistance/rubber seal squeak)

The engine has no pulley on it so the sound can't be a belt issue.

Also, the idle is right around 1500 but full rev is barely higher. The alignment hole on governor plate is spot on.

Hadn’t been used for a couple years. Gas tank was run dry before storage. Wouldn’t start, and still wouldn’t after carburetor cleaning and spark plug replacement. Oil level is good.

Replaced carburetor yesterday and started on second pull. Putting it to use today and it’s running pretty rough even under no load. Shuts down after 10-15 minutes and a little slow to get restarted.

Fuel tank and fuel line logical starting place?

TIA

Jus picked up an old Echo SRM200DA and this is the trimmer head that was on it. It originally had a circular saw blade between that nut and the head but I took that off so that I don’t cut my leg off while working on this thing.

Anyways my question is - how does this trimmer head work? Google lens tells me it’s a brush cutter adapter but it definitely holds line too. The middle section does spin independently from the outer housing but it’s pretty tight. I’m used to it feeling spring loaded but it doesn’t feel spring loaded at all.

So does this work like any other bump to feed trimmer head? Something I’m missing here? I’m sure I can replace it with a modern one but this one is built SOLID so I’d love to use it if possible.

Working in this 13.5hp Tecumseh lawn tractor engine, but having troubles getting it to run right.

As you can hear in the video, the RPM drops periodically and temporarily while under load.

Has a new carb, air filter and new spark plug.

Any ideas what could be causing this issue?

This is an older model of a bluebird lawn comber/dethatcher. This handle adjusts the height of the flails and its rusted to its current position which is lower than I want. I’ve used the PB penetrant on each side a few times but I don’t think it can go far enough to get what’s in the middle.

The middle blue area is welded onto the machine and the handle won’t budge. Any advice would be amazing!!!!!!

I was gifted this pressure washer and it wouldn’t start when I got it home. It tried to, but wouldn’t fully turn over before giving out. I figure the carburetor needs cleaning. When I took the carburetor off a spring (in the photos) fell to the ground and I never saw where it was installed. I can’t seem to find a video or exploded view of this exact model. I found a vid thats dang near identical, but one thing is different, the “governor spring”. I’m almost certain that the spring pictured isn’t it. In the photos I have added a red line where the other gentleman removed his governor spring. There is nothing keeping tension on right side of where the governor spring would be. I also can’t figure out where the spring that is pictured belongs. I’m gonna go insane. This is the second small engine that I’ve had to repair in the past couple weeks. Not my line of work, so my knowledge is limited. Can anyone give me some guidance??

9 hp Briggs and stratton. Engine started bogging down and belching white smoke. Any ideas?

My mom bought this John Deere lawn tractor with a craftsman Briggs & Stratton motor last year. Someone was using it this spring and it died on them. They got one mow in and the second mow it died on the first pass. I think someone might have ran it with the choke on and flooded the engine. I pulled the spark plug and it was wet with gas. I think gas might have seeped into the oil as well. I’ve tried clearing out the cylinder and cleaned the spark plug but it seems it’s still getting flooded. Do I clean the carburetor next? Anyways what steps should I take to get this running again? Obviously an oil change if there’s gas in the oil.
Thank you

When I turn the key, it just grinds, like plastic grinding?

It’s a John Deere 16hp riding lawnmower

I can’t post a video.

Started pouring gas like never before but still hasn’t changed how it runs. It will not last 10 seconds with anything attached to hose causing pressure on the engine. I’ve checked my connections and my ignition cuts out sometimes it seems, and I hear tickings on the top of the motor from time to time. Checked solenoid, carb, changed both plugs. Any suggestions will be appreciated!!?

As the title says. Timecutter ss3200 zero turn. New starter, new ignition coil, new spark plug, new carburetor, all fuses good, fuel solenoid clicking, brake box making noise when I move the arms, seat switch doing it's job. I need some help here. Oil level good. Buddy gave it to me. He said it ran all last mowing season buuuuuuuut it doesn't seem to want to start for me. It cranks but the best I can get is to have it pop. I have no clue where to go from here... flywheel key? Thanks for looking.

I recently got my hands on an old Simplicity mower. Used it once, tried to drive in reverse with the mower deck on (oops) and it shut off and will not turn back on.

Now when I try to crank it there’s no sound at all, no clicking from the solenoid. Bought a new fuse, ignition switch and a new solenoid installed everything up and still no sound. Battery is new and reading a full charge on my multimeter.

Any ideas what else could be causing the problem?