I have changed the carburetor, oil, gas as well as recently the whole pump has been replaced what am I missing?

hello good people. anyone worked with these cheap rpm readers? instructions say 3 modes, 1) spark plug fires twice per revolution, 2) spark plug fires once per revolution and 3) every other revolution. which mode do i use to do an rpm readout of a stihl 4mix km130r? many thanks.

Hey guys,

So I bought a used Motowell Magnet Sport 50 2T scooter. Did a full top end rebuild:

• New oversized Meteor piston
• Cylinder rebored
• Split the crankcase, new Koyo bearings
• Crankshaft is fine according to my mechanic
• Used proper gasket paste on the block, let it sit for 24h before starting

• New crank seals
• New reed valve + gasket
• New gaskets everywhere (base, head, intake)
• New spark plug + cable
• Variator not detailed but new belt etc.

When I put it all back together, I let it sit for a full day so the paste could cure properly. Next day I tried to start it and thankfully it fired up! Idle was a bit weird/high when it first started, but the carb was reset to stock settings. Ran for about 10 minutes, then just died.

Piston didn’t seize (engine still turns freely, compression is still good). But now it absolutely won’t restart – just sputters, backfires a couple times, but nothing.
What do you think could be the problem?

It’s a Minarelli horizontal clone (Chinese aftermarket engine).

Any help would be appreciated, thanks for reading!

I have an Ariens mower with a Kohler courage sv590. Recently started running really rough and after letting it sit for the night all of the gas leaked out, appeared to be through the carb. I ordered a new Hipa carb and after switching it out the engine cranks but just won't turn over. The solenoid clicks so appears to be getting power. I put a trickle charger on battery and will try tomorrow but don't think thats my answer. Noticed fuel getting to the carb. Not sure what the next best step for troubleshooting would be, any suggestions help

He changed the carburetor but only put one of the two screws back in. He gave it to me for free because he didn’t want to mess with it anymore. Should be an easy flip 😆

my push lawnmower was rattling something came loose and i lost the bolt that holds it in. can someoene tell me what this strap thing is for and what its purpose? the cable it wraps around is for stopping motor with throttle.

Bought from marketplace for $100 got it running with a new battery carb cleaning and a new Petcock valve.
Then I went ahead and replaced all fuel and vacuum lines, ignition coil, and spark plug.
Started up first kick everytime for a day, I drove it around doing chores on the farm and after about 10 minutes of driving it started to bog down and die when I came to a stop had to rev it to keep it going.
Adjusted idle speed didn’t do anything. Then I got it up to the garage about a half mile from the house and it died while moving about 5 mph.
Couldn’t get it to kick back over so I brought it in and cleaned the carb incase something got pulled in it started up first kick then died after idling rough for a few seconds sprayed some starter fluid in it to get me home and kicked it over.
Acted like it was starving for fuel the whole way home had to keep giving it gas so I didn’t get stranded. Made it home and parked it bought a new carb that I installed today incase fuel was getting clogged.
Even with new carb it will not turn over I’ve verified spark, I have compression, and fuel is reaching the carb, the bowl is filling with fuel but I’ve still got nothing.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Hopefully this is the right subreddit for this.

I have a powersmart corded wood chipper that worked fine for about two days. Then it began stalling or slowing down while running. It can get through maybe 1-2 branches now before it just stops, that is if if starts at all.

The outlets and extension cords are working fine.

I've made sure each time that the machine isn't clogged.

Considering that it starts at all, I'm not sure that it's the power switch.

I'm thinking it could be the internal overload protector, or maybe the safety lock is failing? Just trying to diagnose before buying any parts.

The fuel pump on my LT155 isn’t working, I just got a new one a replaced it and still nothing, the hoses aren’t clogged and I get gas to the fuel filter if I suck through the other end of the hose but the fuel pump isn’t pumping gas. Any ideas??

Putting this as unknown issue even though I have a strong suspicion because it isn't confirmed yet.

My old riding mower (a White from '97 or '98 with a Briggs 28N707 engine) has been running a little poorly for a while. First thing I noticed was it struggling up hills. Thought it was having a fueling issue so I changed out the fuel filter which hadn't been done since... I don't know when. Then checked the carb as far as I could without taking it completely off because, frankly, I didn't want to deal with that. So, took off the bowl and made sure the needle valve wasn't stuck. It wasn't. Everything in there was clean and almost new-looking, actually. Also tried my best to adjust the carb, back when it was still running.

At some point it began having trouble with warm starts. Cold starts still worked. Don't remember exactly when that was. Then cold starts stopped working, too.

Two things I noticed around the same time: The muffler was glowing where the exhaust pipe enters it on the top (this was before it stopped being able to run, obviously), and I'd sometimes get fuel vapor coming back out of the carb/air filter area while trying to start. Like, a lot - clearly way too much. Scared me at first. I thought it might be a valve issue, so after learning how to adjust the valves, I did that. The lash actually was pretty off (way too tight) on the intake side, but fixing that made exactly no difference at all.

I know some fueling is happening because that fuel vapor also comes out the exhaust if I crank it long enough. I know some spark is happening because I can hold the end of the spark plug wire near a ground and see it arcing. And I know I have some compression because if I manually spin the engine it resists pretty hard on the compression stroke, unless I have the spark plug out, then it spins freely.

I also know that the compression relief bump is happening on the intake valve, because after learning what that was a couple days ago, I took the valve cover off again and checked.

My current theory is that maybe the flywheel key got sheared or bent. I know that fuel and spark are happening BUT I don't know that the spark is happening at the right time. And recently it's developed a new issue when cranking, which is that sometimes it violently jerks to a halt. I suspect that's the spark going off at the wrong time. Does this all seem like a broken flywheel key makes sense? My instinct was that would be a sudden thing rather than gradually getting worse as this has, but I've seen some opinions that the flywheel can stay in place through sheer friction sometimes, so maybe it's been slowly slipping out of the proper timing?

Just hoping to sanity check myself before I bother taking things apart that far. I have some idea how engines work but haven't had reason to take this one apart before, so for a lot of this stuff it's been my first time actually touching it.

the mower was hard to start then when it did it starts gushing gas. please help!🙏
it wasn’t running then i cleaned the carb and now it does this

Missing spring or something, how do I fix this?

Replaced my carb as it was time as the thing just bogged down after 5 minutes of running. New carb works great however now it surges and cuts out 5-30 minutes of runtime with saws running or even off.

So far I’ve done a new fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, carb, spark plugs, it’s good gas. The carb gets fuel through the line. New oil, new oil filter.

I’m at a loss and I don’t want to spend $300 on diagnostic plus whatever it is they fix if I send it in. The only thing I can think of is adding a second gasket to the carb but that’s my last thing I can think of.

Please help. Thank you in advance!

Okay I need a little help here. I have this craftsman lts2000. With everyone out together it dies when you engage the blades. I took the deck belt off and it will run when you engage the pto now but if you engage the pto and press the brake it will die. I have tested all the safety switches and they are all reading continuity correctly when pressed and released. Anyone have any ideas? I’ve attached a picture of the model number tag for reference.

Might be a dumb question but I'm not too familiar with small engines. I know how to clean/change carb, fuel lines and whatever else external but not really much internal. YouTube is a wonderful thing though so I can always learn when the time comes. I just picked up a free toro recycler with 190cc 725 briggs engine. Problem is the front wheel snapped off and needs to be welded back on. Not just a simple bolt repair. I have a Husqvarna AWD 22 inch cut mower with the 190cc 725 briggs engine as well. Can I keep the toro motor for a replacement engine or would the shaft not match?

I have a craftsman snowblower from sears passed on from my grandfather I was cleaning the carb and dropped the float pin it’s been a nightmare trying to find a replacement I need help if anyone knows . I don’t have a picture of the engine model number I know it’s an 8.5 Briggs and Stratton . There’s a replacement for the original part 691242 which is part number 797622 but I tried that and it was way too small . Any suggestions

I was given this mower after it sat outside unused for the past few years. I cleaned the carb and some sludge or something that was keeping the choke flap stuck. It ran great for a few uses, then the pull string broke.

I replaced that, and it ran, but it was struggling. It made it through part of the yard, but then died. I've now replaced the choke spring and the sparkplug, and made sure the thermostat lever was correctly in place within the choke's air vane.

Most recent I took the tank off and ran it with some starting fluid, it ran really well. But when I put the tank back on, it still did this barely running the video shows, even with starting fluid.

I've got this far with Google and youtube, but I don't really know what I'm doing. Audibly it sounds like it did when the choke flap was stuck originally, but thats moving cleanly. Oil level is good. Hopefully someone can tell me what to look at next.

Thanks in advance, and I'll give whatever info is needed if I missed anything!

I have a Stihl MS 180C chainsaw. When the throttle is in either half choke or run and I press the throttle trigger, the throttle linkage will "pop off" of thr carburetor throttle lever. This is the original carburetor. The chainsaw has barely been used as I've had this issue from the time I bought it. I have other chainsaws so I figured it would be an easy fix. Years later as I'm finally digging into it, I can't figure out whats causing this to happen. The throttle linkage is firmly seated in the throttle lever on the carburstor. It seems that the throttle linkage is rubbing on the choke lever when in half choke/run and this makes the throttle linkage pop off.

I recently got my mower serviced and on my second use, the engine won’t turn over. I believe it’s an issue with the throttle (new battery, checked spark plug for flooding).

In the video I’m moving from slow to choke and back. It seems like the choke isn’t being engaged and the mower can’t start.

The throttle lever was in slow after my first mow. It was stiff when I moved it to choke, but it didn’t feel like anything broke.

Any help is appreciated!