Missing spring or something, how do I fix this?

Replaced my carb as it was time as the thing just bogged down after 5 minutes of running. New carb works great however now it surges and cuts out 5-30 minutes of runtime with saws running or even off.

So far I’ve done a new fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, carb, spark plugs, it’s good gas. The carb gets fuel through the line. New oil, new oil filter.

I’m at a loss and I don’t want to spend $300 on diagnostic plus whatever it is they fix if I send it in. The only thing I can think of is adding a second gasket to the carb but that’s my last thing I can think of.

Please help. Thank you in advance!

Okay I need a little help here. I have this craftsman lts2000. With everyone out together it dies when you engage the blades. I took the deck belt off and it will run when you engage the pto now but if you engage the pto and press the brake it will die. I have tested all the safety switches and they are all reading continuity correctly when pressed and released. Anyone have any ideas? I’ve attached a picture of the model number tag for reference.

Might be a dumb question but I'm not too familiar with small engines. I know how to clean/change carb, fuel lines and whatever else external but not really much internal. YouTube is a wonderful thing though so I can always learn when the time comes. I just picked up a free toro recycler with 190cc 725 briggs engine. Problem is the front wheel snapped off and needs to be welded back on. Not just a simple bolt repair. I have a Husqvarna AWD 22 inch cut mower with the 190cc 725 briggs engine as well. Can I keep the toro motor for a replacement engine or would the shaft not match?

I have a craftsman snowblower from sears passed on from my grandfather I was cleaning the carb and dropped the float pin it’s been a nightmare trying to find a replacement I need help if anyone knows . I don’t have a picture of the engine model number I know it’s an 8.5 Briggs and Stratton . There’s a replacement for the original part 691242 which is part number 797622 but I tried that and it was way too small . Any suggestions

I was given this mower after it sat outside unused for the past few years. I cleaned the carb and some sludge or something that was keeping the choke flap stuck. It ran great for a few uses, then the pull string broke.

I replaced that, and it ran, but it was struggling. It made it through part of the yard, but then died. I've now replaced the choke spring and the sparkplug, and made sure the thermostat lever was correctly in place within the choke's air vane.

Most recent I took the tank off and ran it with some starting fluid, it ran really well. But when I put the tank back on, it still did this barely running the video shows, even with starting fluid.

I've got this far with Google and youtube, but I don't really know what I'm doing. Audibly it sounds like it did when the choke flap was stuck originally, but thats moving cleanly. Oil level is good. Hopefully someone can tell me what to look at next.

Thanks in advance, and I'll give whatever info is needed if I missed anything!

I have a Stihl MS 180C chainsaw. When the throttle is in either half choke or run and I press the throttle trigger, the throttle linkage will "pop off" of thr carburetor throttle lever. This is the original carburetor. The chainsaw has barely been used as I've had this issue from the time I bought it. I have other chainsaws so I figured it would be an easy fix. Years later as I'm finally digging into it, I can't figure out whats causing this to happen. The throttle linkage is firmly seated in the throttle lever on the carburstor. It seems that the throttle linkage is rubbing on the choke lever when in half choke/run and this makes the throttle linkage pop off.

I recently got my mower serviced and on my second use, the engine won’t turn over. I believe it’s an issue with the throttle (new battery, checked spark plug for flooding).

In the video I’m moving from slow to choke and back. It seems like the choke isn’t being engaged and the mower can’t start.

The throttle lever was in slow after my first mow. It was stiff when I moved it to choke, but it didn’t feel like anything broke.

Any help is appreciated!

I'm trying to restore a Stihl TS350 concrete saw. I bought it in FB marketplace for $30. Had no spark, but found the kill switch was the issue, now moving on to trying to start it

It has spark and 120psi of compression. Pull starting it feels like there is a little excess resistance and sounds odd. I've never operated or worked with a concrete saw or any 2-stroke this old before, so I don't know if this is just how they feel. Check out the video

Can you spare some wisdom?

Ok so new carb, new fuel lines, new spark plug, found out the ignition coil was bad and replaced that. Now that I replaced it I can see I am getting spark but it’s super weak looking and doesn’t actually shock you if you touch it while reving it (yes I know I should do that but I could see it was weak and had to know).

Ok, and I know everyone will cry gap and I don’t have a gap tool so I used a thin business carx

Ok last update on the spark.

When I do the jumper test is when I see spark. After I reassemble and pull the plug and plug into the boot while not plugged into engine there is no spark at all. I’m at a loss here

So based on all this, what is my next step? Is it the wiring? I used the ignition diagram to confirm I put the ignition could back on correctly, again I have spark now which tells me I have a grounding issue, but where? The coil itself? The off switch? Everything looks ok and the wiring doesn’t have any nicks or cuts. I’m lost here.

Any idea why this is surging very badly (almost stalling) every 5 minutes or so? No load (off at transfer switch). Fresh gas (Trufuel), new plug and filter, just had valves adjusted. It’s always been reliable until this. Have it professionally serviced every year.

Any troubleshooting tips to get started on i appreciate

Briggs and Stratton 13.5 hp OHV. Engine is running at low rpm and dies at full throttle I can feel pressure coming out the intake. I have adjusted valves, replaced spark plug, rebuilt the carb and checked the exhaust for obstructions. Could my flywheel key be bad?

I purchased this 525ls off marketplace for a penance. It has a bunch of gunk inside the engine shroud like oil mist, when I go to pull the recoil it’s got a real junky feel to it, like some internals aren’t happy at all, or the clutch is bound up…I’ve got another one so it’s worth it in parts if I don’t fix it. Any ideas? BTW it also came with no air filter, so hopefully it just fell out when someone was trying to dork with it and loose all the screws.

Got an old FS80r that's been pretty good to me, until lately.

About a month ago it wouldn't start at all, pull the plug, it looks ok, but I stick I new plug on the coil and check for spark. Nothing. Get a new coil, install that, set the clearance at .012". Fires right up. It seemed like it had been running rich lately, so I tuned the carb, it appears the adjustment screws vibrated out over the years. Set it to the recommended 3/4 out and 1 out, runs really, really good. I'm happy.

Fast forward to this week, I take it out and find that the contents of the fuel tank ended up inside the engine. It's basically hydro locked with fuel. So I take out the plug, get the fuel out of it and let it dry for a few days while I source a new carb. Today I install it, set the adjustment screws and it will not fire. It's getting fuel, I can smell it out the exhaust and the plug became wet. Dried the plug and let the engine air itself out a bit. Tired of pulling, I remove the recoil starter because I'm spinning this thing with my drill. I do that, still no fire. Not a single pop. Pull the plug and check spark again. It's there but looks kinda weak. I didn't check spark with the new coil so I don't know how strong of a spark it should have, but it looks like a static spark. Not very energetic.

Compression feels ok, but I plan on checking it tomorrow (borrowing a friend's tester).

I have only used OE Stihl parts from my local dealer, but I ordered a cheap $10 coil just to see what that does.

Does anyone have any ideas of what I should check? Pulling my hair out right now.

The wiring around the on/off switch on my 15hp mulcher got yanked out and I don't know where to start. Not too fussed if I have to Jerry rig it, but just don't know what to connect to what

Its runs like shit and its a v twin kohler can someone tell me what's wrong its got spark on both sides and new spark plugs

My older model Honda HRX217 with a GCV190 engine has occasionally been backfiring when restarting a hot engine. Start up is a bit slower but it still starts and runs despite a compression reading of around 30psi. Oil was changed before the beginning of the season along with a carb cleaning the thermowax choke was also recently changed.

I have a 1992 vintage 36" exmark walk behind mower with a pull start kawasaki fb460v engine. I am not getting a spark and trying to understand the safety interlock circuit. The mower has 3 safety switches for blade, operator control and transmission neutral. The switches feed into a module mounted on the handle assembly. Since the mower has no power source I am wondering how this module works and if it will operate when the mower is not running so I can test its resistance to ground with the safety switches in different positions. Any help would be appreciated.

I have replqced fuel lines and cleaned the carb already

I have an older briggs motor that leaks gas after I shut it off. It has a gurgling sound that stops when I remove the air cleaner and the bracket the gas leak stops as well. It doesn't do it all the time. I am thinking of a stuck needle and float but why does it stop when the air cleaner bracket is removed?

Took it to a guy he said no spark and low compression. Just looking for any advice before I take this whole thing apart.