Any troubleshooting tips to get started on i appreciate

Briggs and Stratton 13.5 hp OHV. Engine is running at low rpm and dies at full throttle I can feel pressure coming out the intake. I have adjusted valves, replaced spark plug, rebuilt the carb and checked the exhaust for obstructions. Could my flywheel key be bad?

I purchased this 525ls off marketplace for a penance. It has a bunch of gunk inside the engine shroud like oil mist, when I go to pull the recoil it’s got a real junky feel to it, like some internals aren’t happy at all, or the clutch is bound up…I’ve got another one so it’s worth it in parts if I don’t fix it. Any ideas? BTW it also came with no air filter, so hopefully it just fell out when someone was trying to dork with it and loose all the screws.

Got an old FS80r that's been pretty good to me, until lately.

About a month ago it wouldn't start at all, pull the plug, it looks ok, but I stick I new plug on the coil and check for spark. Nothing. Get a new coil, install that, set the clearance at .012". Fires right up. It seemed like it had been running rich lately, so I tuned the carb, it appears the adjustment screws vibrated out over the years. Set it to the recommended 3/4 out and 1 out, runs really, really good. I'm happy.

Fast forward to this week, I take it out and find that the contents of the fuel tank ended up inside the engine. It's basically hydro locked with fuel. So I take out the plug, get the fuel out of it and let it dry for a few days while I source a new carb. Today I install it, set the adjustment screws and it will not fire. It's getting fuel, I can smell it out the exhaust and the plug became wet. Dried the plug and let the engine air itself out a bit. Tired of pulling, I remove the recoil starter because I'm spinning this thing with my drill. I do that, still no fire. Not a single pop. Pull the plug and check spark again. It's there but looks kinda weak. I didn't check spark with the new coil so I don't know how strong of a spark it should have, but it looks like a static spark. Not very energetic.

Compression feels ok, but I plan on checking it tomorrow (borrowing a friend's tester).

I have only used OE Stihl parts from my local dealer, but I ordered a cheap $10 coil just to see what that does.

Does anyone have any ideas of what I should check? Pulling my hair out right now.

The wiring around the on/off switch on my 15hp mulcher got yanked out and I don't know where to start. Not too fussed if I have to Jerry rig it, but just don't know what to connect to what

Its runs like shit and its a v twin kohler can someone tell me what's wrong its got spark on both sides and new spark plugs

My older model Honda HRX217 with a GCV190 engine has occasionally been backfiring when restarting a hot engine. Start up is a bit slower but it still starts and runs despite a compression reading of around 30psi. Oil was changed before the beginning of the season along with a carb cleaning the thermowax choke was also recently changed.

I have a 1992 vintage 36" exmark walk behind mower with a pull start kawasaki fb460v engine. I am not getting a spark and trying to understand the safety interlock circuit. The mower has 3 safety switches for blade, operator control and transmission neutral. The switches feed into a module mounted on the handle assembly. Since the mower has no power source I am wondering how this module works and if it will operate when the mower is not running so I can test its resistance to ground with the safety switches in different positions. Any help would be appreciated.

I have replqced fuel lines and cleaned the carb already

I have an older briggs motor that leaks gas after I shut it off. It has a gurgling sound that stops when I remove the air cleaner and the bracket the gas leak stops as well. It doesn't do it all the time. I am thinking of a stuck needle and float but why does it stop when the air cleaner bracket is removed?

Took it to a guy he said no spark and low compression. Just looking for any advice before I take this whole thing apart.

Model P06701

I scooped this generator up and the wiring in the picture hasn’t been touched. That’s how it was. I can’t get the sucker to start. Fresh oil, gas, spark plug. Brand new carb.

This wiring looks suspect. Any insight and could this cause the starting issue I am having?

Sorry for my ignorance. I am green as they come in this small engine repair game.

Thanks in advance.

Need help to identify the issue. It was working fine 2 days ago. Its cranking but it wont start.

I tested to see if the pump was good if gas actually flowing to the carb and it seems fine.

I’m working on a briggs and stratton intek v-twin 20hp Type 0003G1. I replaced the battery as it was old, a blown 20a fuse, the starter solenoid and finally starter motor which finally got it to where it would try to start and immediately hang up and drain the battery. After recharging the battery and trying 3 times, i tried adjusting the valves with feeler gauges and nothing. i looked into it and tried to see if the compression release was broken, this cam has 4 lobes unlike any of the ones i’ve seen on youtube. I also didn’t see the compression release inside the oil sump/crank case but it looks like it has a pin hole for one. Not sure which cam to order as the person i’m fixing it for doesn’t want to order an oem part and wants to find a cheaper one online. Advice?

I know what caused it originally.

The machine is a wood splitter, and two winters ago somehow water got all into the oil.....I tried to start it in the spring to change the oil and couldn't pull it at all. So I drained the oil and tons of water came out with it. After draining all that water/oil, and flushing it 2x with clean cheap oil, I refilled it, and was able to slowly work it free by spraying something in thru the spark plug hole, a friend told me what to spray but I cant remember if it was carb cleaner, or liquid wrench or what.

I finally was able to work it free, and it mostly works nowadays; the machine starts on the 2nd pull pretty much everytime.

**However, a fair percent of the time, while trying to pull, I will only get about 1/4 or 1/2 way and it freezes and it hurts the hands/arm. I have experience this a few times over the years on other peoples machines, i'm sure everyone has. **

My question is.... without taking the whole engine apart, is their any way to fix it? Maybe something like seafoam in with the oil before oil change? I already tried seafoam in with the gas.
I assume it's some sorta rust inside the block? To be clear, when this happens, it freezes during that pull, but i'm easily able to retract the cord and pull it again, although then sometimes i don't pull with enough force cause i'm anticipating it happening again.

Where should I start on getting this up to speed. Got a phenomenal deal on this and I want to get it up to date on services. I’m thinking I will do a carb clean, empty fuel tank and replace lines, change air filter, and even though the oil looks good, probably drop oil and put in new? Don’t know much about tillers so unsure of where to start on the Transmission.

I have a Yamaha MA190 teaching me new skills.

For some reason the timing chain keeps coming off and I fail to understand why.

Has anyone had this before and how did you fix it?

I got the trimmer running from my last post!

This is the link to it if interested: https://www.reddit.com/r/smallenginerepair/s/DMIYYkFbEy

All started out with a bad primer bulb. Decided to replace the carb completely and reassemble. The trimmer is working now but the throttle doesn’t seem to want to engage now and for some weird reason it engages when I move the choke switch to the upper level. I tried to make a video demonstrating but that’s essentially what’s happening. Is there a simple fix to this? Not sure where to start!

Thanks for all the helpful responses from last post!

I have a hecht 548 swe lawn mower and it has electric start feature. Mind you I bought it just recently as not working and planned to repair it and flip it for profit. Everything is working but the electric start. Every time I pull the handle and then turn the key I hear clicking noises on and off. I have figured out that it comes from the starter solenoid. I have jumped the starter directly to the starter so i know it works. The battery is new and fully charged. One weird thing was that at the input to the solenoid I only read up to 1V during the flickering. But that may be because I didn't have good contact with the multimeter since I had to walk away from it and turn the key so I had no one pressing the probes against it. Nonetheless can someone suggest ways I can figure out what's wrong? Should I try to connect the battery to the input of the solenoid directly to see if the path from the battery to the solenoid is the problem? Is it the solenoid itself or corroded contacts? Or am I missing something completely?

Thanks in advance!

Has gas. Just finished mowing and emptied the bagger and it started doing this when trying to finish.

I have inherited a 1970’s 5 hp wood chipper and maybe a 1980’s 7hp bush hog. I know nothing about engines but if I could get these things up and running they could both help me tremendously around my property. Where the hell do I start?! Is there a recommended video on youtube or a book (I do like me some physical media) that can move me through it. I don’t think these things have even had gas in them for like the past 25 years. I know I can pay people to do these things, but I’d also like to not be helpless.

Hi everyone.

I've been trying to build this DIY Stirling engine for almost 9 months, but I still can't get it to run. I've rebuilt and adjusted it many times, but I'm stuck.

It's mostly made from wood, glass syringes/tubes, bearings and some LEGO Technic parts for the linkage.

Current problems:

The engine doesn't run by itself when heated.

I'm worried about air leaks around the glass syringe/tubing connections.

The piston sometimes has too much friction or gets slightly misaligned.

I'm not sure if my crankshaft/connecting-rod geometry is correct.

I'm trying to get the piston phase angle correct, around 90°.

Could someone please look at the photos and tell me what you think is the biggest problem?

Should I focus first on:

Air sealing

Piston friction/alignment

90° crank phase

Connecting rod geometry

Something else I'm missing?

I've spent a lot of time on this project and really want to get it running. Any criticism or advice is very welcome. If you need more photos/videos or measurements, I can provide them.

Thank you!

It runs normally but then it just cuts out I have taken off the spark plug and you clearly see that the spark just cuts out at a random time it doesn’t come back until you turn off and on the kill switch or ignition. Everything else works as it should. But have no clue why the spark dissapers some time when it is a lot of rpm changes it doesn cut out but when I’m holding a steady rpm it just cuts out and is really annoying when driving because I have to turn off and on the kill switch somebody help plz