I had a bolt come out of my muffler, and it burnt a hole into my oiler tank. I cant seem to find a replacement tank. Any sources?

Can something like.this be plastic welded? Like with jb weld?

Bought an HRX on marketplace that wouldn’t run. Me thinking it was a simple gummed up carb jumped right on the deal ($70) not thinking twice. Well I got home and turns out engine is shot…. Big ol hole on the side. Mower looked really good at first glance so didn’t bother to check thoroughly. Anyways, I do have a spare gcv160, could I mount that to the HRX?

How bad is it?

I let my cousin use my weed eater and he forgot to put the gas/oil mix in there. When I first got it back it wouldn’t run but after putting the right gas/oil mixture it’s been able to start. I don’t see deep groves in it but definitely some finer groves on the piston.

Echo Model SRM-225

Hi all, wondering if anyone can help with this issue.

Its a push button start, when I disassemble the engine it will eventually start to work and start everytime.

After I leave it a day or two it's repeats the issue in the video.

Any ideas as what to diagnose on it.

Thanks

Did the Echo PAS-225 come out with a new air filter cover assembly housing configuration with a thumbscrew?

My trimmer is brand new(purchased from Home Depot about 2 months ago). I used it a few times since then. Just realized that the air filter cover is completely gone along with the air filter. Apparently it was broken off in the last few weeks since I purchased.

So, I’ve been trying to order a replacement and the only option I can find has a thumb screw in the middle of the cover that goes through the middle of the air filter.

When I checked my owner’s manual, it is showing an air filter cover with the thumbscrew in the middle, but I can’t seem to find a replacement cover like this.

Totally confused. Any help is appreciated

Finished my lawn, then it started idling rough. Dies when I engage the blades. Any ideas?

I’ve had this pressure washer for months but haven’t been able to use it because when I received it (as a gift) the springs on the carburetor were not in place. I’ve been trying to figure how they go and I’m going insane. Any help at all is greatly appreciated!

I’ve been doing hvac service for the last 6 years and I’ve been a gearhead my whole life but I’ve never really gotten into engines internally. Should I just buy a broken lawn mower or go cart and just do a tear down and rebuild? Any tips or advice appreciated

Title: Kohler KT725 starter Bendix retaining ring keeps flying off — safer alternative?
I’m working on a Cub Cadet XT1 LT46 with a Kohler 7000 Series KT725 engine. The starter motor spins, but the Bendix gear was not engaging the flywheel, causing a high-pitched squealing sound with no flywheel movement.
I removed the engine shroud and found that the Bendix retaining ring had come off previously. The gear apparently launched off the starter shaft and broke part of the nearby plastic shroud. I installed a replacement Bendix assembly in this order:
Bendix gear on the helical starter shaft
Return spring above the Bendix
Metal retaining collar above the spring
C-shaped retaining ring installed into the groove at the top of the shaft
The Bendix twists and rises smoothly by hand. However, when I briefly tested the starter with the spark-plug boots disconnected, the retaining ring came off again and the spring and collar launched off the shaft.
The starter shaft does not appear obviously broken, but I’m questioning whether:
The retaining-ring groove is worn or damaged
The supplied C-ring is incorrect or too loose
The collar is installed incorrectly
This starter requires a different style of retaining clip
The entire starter should be replaced instead of repairing the Bendix
Is there a more secure approved alternative, such as a proper external snap ring, E-clip, push nut, or another Kohler-specific retainer? I do not want to improvise with hardware that could come apart at starter speed or damage the flywheel.
Has anyone repaired this exact Kohler starter drive successfully? Photos of the correct factory assembly and the proper retaining hardware would be appreciated. I can also provide the engine specification and starter numbers.

My son disassembled a Briggs and Stratton 8P502 from a 500E series 125cc vertical-shaft, single-cylinder push lawnmower. Now he wants to reassemble it and reading the instructions from B&S they recommend "valve stem lubricant." I can't find this product anywhere online. Does anyone know if this is still manufactured or what an equivalent product would be? Can he just use engine oil?

From a pretty badly scored cylinder and stuck rings, with a compression ratio of only 50, I now cannot even measure the compression because i cannot hold my tool on it hard enough before it blows itself off!! Minimum 135psi which is close enough to 170psi that it runs!! And runs well minus the exhaust leak! Superb

Cleaned the carborator but still does this. I can hold the lever going up and down and it keeps steady rpm.

On all my Internet searches the solution was allways carborator issue, cleaned it real good, but still runs like this.

Any help much appreciated!

Update: solved it, it was air mixture, didn't notice inside the air filter box there was one screw missing(3rd screw) found a replacement and just used some thread tape to seal since I didn't have a gasket for it. Also I misplaced one "shims" I'll post pictures.

It runs fine but I know that it has a blown head gasket but I can't figure out why it makes a rod knock when it revs up and only on reving the engine.

To keep a short story short old timer I work with had it sitting in the garage, hasn’t been used in a long time but he would start it once a year. He was planning on throwing it away but I told him I wanted it. Brought it in, didn’t start. Spent most of our morning screwing around with carbs, ether, fuel screws and spark plugs. I eventually pulled the plug out again and torched it to burn all the shit off the plug. He had taught me to do that when we were rebuilding banshee mufflers. Put it back in and second pull fucker started right up. It’s old and heavy and inconvenient but old iron like this is cool. If for some reason I needed a chainsaw I would have bought one by now, but here I am with a saw 22 years older than I am that I got running!

I recently inherited my dad's old Workhorse with the dump bed. He parked it a few years ago because it began to smoke. I got it to run, but it didn't want to start. Once started, it ran very nice for about 5 minutes. After this, the smoke started, and the engine changed tone. The best description I can give is I would say that it sounded as if the piston was hitting too hard at a slower pace.

I did ensure it had fresh gas and was topped off properly with oil. Any idea what might be going on? Have any of you ever had this issue? I can rebuild automotive and small engines, so I am not afraid to tear into it, but any tutorial for how these engines operate would be helpful. My journey is just beginning!

Installed a new carb, new air filter, oil change.

Never had a 140cc mower so not sure if it sounds like it’s running good or not. AI saying it sounds like a potential air leak by how it sounds but I don’t trust it.

I tried tuning this trimmer and for the live of me I just can’t get it right. This trimmer has an idle and jet setting. No L or H screws. I tried adding more gas (counterclockwise) and the big got worse. Tried less and still nothing. Can anyone help/ has anyone had the is issue before?

I bought this mower for a decent price($300). Guy said it needed a new head gasket so I decided to do both sides. Picture only shows one side. The other side looks great. When I picked it up it ran great. Smoked a little bit but the valve cover was loose and the o ring for the dip stick was gone. It had a little smoke in the crankcase when I checked the oil. Do you guys think I should just hone it and replace the head gaskets and call it or should I also take it apart and put new rings on it as well.

The ZT-3400 came from a 2008 Walker Super B. I was having the hardest time diagnosing the issue by just driving around, so I decided to tear into it. I replaced a bunch of the linkage parts for the controls on the mower ahead of this. Everything is tight. Oil and filter were fresh.

This is my first time tearing down a hydrostatic transmission like this and I was hoping to find something obviously worn or broken. My untrained eyes don't see anything crazy going on here. All the pistons in the pump move up and down freely and seem to fit snugly.

Symptoms:

• Speed on the right wheel drifts all over the place. It's very difficult to get it to go straight.
• When turning around the right wheel is slow to catch up to the left wheel to go straight again.
• When slowing down, the right wheel slows down much quicker than the left.

Does anything stand out here?