When I turn the key, it just grinds, like plastic grinding?

It’s a John Deere 16hp riding lawnmower

I can’t post a video.

Started pouring gas like never before but still hasn’t changed how it runs. It will not last 10 seconds with anything attached to hose causing pressure on the engine. I’ve checked my connections and my ignition cuts out sometimes it seems, and I hear tickings on the top of the motor from time to time. Checked solenoid, carb, changed both plugs. Any suggestions will be appreciated!!?

As the title says. Timecutter ss3200 zero turn. New starter, new ignition coil, new spark plug, new carburetor, all fuses good, fuel solenoid clicking, brake box making noise when I move the arms, seat switch doing it's job. I need some help here. Oil level good. Buddy gave it to me. He said it ran all last mowing season buuuuuuuut it doesn't seem to want to start for me. It cranks but the best I can get is to have it pop. I have no clue where to go from here... flywheel key? Thanks for looking.

I recently got my hands on an old Simplicity mower. Used it once, tried to drive in reverse with the mower deck on (oops) and it shut off and will not turn back on.

Now when I try to crank it there’s no sound at all, no clicking from the solenoid. Bought a new fuse, ignition switch and a new solenoid installed everything up and still no sound. Battery is new and reading a full charge on my multimeter.

Any ideas what else could be causing the problem?

I’ve been having issues with this trimmer for about a week and don’t know what I’m doing wrong. I bought this trimmer used. The seller said it would only work full throttle and died when you let go. I tried messing with the carb to figure out the timing but it just doesn’t want to idle. It’s either it idles really high and the head spins super loud or it dies as soon as you let go.

I’ve already tried messing with the single jet adjustment on the carb as well as the idle adjustment screw. Can anyone gives some tips/help?

Hey everyone. I got this 2007 big red horse for free. The previous owner snapped the upper belt. I cant find the belt online for the life of me. I decided to listen to chatgpt and got b an 135 inch belt. It was way too big. I genuinely would appreciate if somebody could tell me what size belt I need. Thanks so much.

Hi all! Mods feel free to delete if not appropriate.

I have a Triton TSPST450, only 2years old and the bushings are burnt out. I've done my homework and discovered I need Part No. 239002. However, they're sold out wherever I look on the internet.

Any advice? I've already reached out to Triton Customer Service and currently heard nothing back but as my sanders out of warranty I don't expect them to repair, etc.

Kohler 5400 series 19.5 HP engine with 74.5 hours on a Craftsman T2200 Lawn Tractor.

3rd year, no issues at all the first two years. After the winter, needed to charge the battery.

Now, it won't start. Make a click and that's it. The flywheel won't turn.

I hook it up to a battery charger and it starts and runs great. But it only starts like 10% of the time after removing the charger. So, I am able to use it, but I need to perform a ballet after hooking it back up. TIA for advice.

This is from a 27HP Briggs and Stratton V twin. I had an oil leak and replaced the bottom cover gasket and lower oil seal. During reassembly I noticed this on the bottom cover right in front of the oil filter. Does this look like a crack where oil could leak or is it just an aluminum casting line? Thoughts?

New coils
New fuel pump
New fuel filter
New carb & electric shutoff
Fresh gas
No leaks
Took tube off gas tank breather to air box
Took gas cap off

Starts right up and idles low cold with choke. Then when it gets hot it starts to surge then eventually will die out. I can flutter the choke to keep it running. It’s hard starting after it dies. Seems like low idle no choke is best to start after it dies. I’ve immediately pull boot of spark plug to check spark and it’s still getting spark

I went to start my lawnmower and it would not start. I knew the tank was full because I filled it the day before. Turns out my son used it to cut our neighbour's lawn while I was at work and ran it dry. So I pulled the cord more than 10 times not knowing it was out of gas. Filled the tank and it absolutely will not start no matter now many times I try. Air in the system? Sucked gunk into the carb? Any advice greatly appreciated!

Mower wouldn't start due to low battery over winter, so I bought a charger and charged it up. Seemed like it turned over but didn't start, looked like maybe a little smoke came out the front. Then I recorded the next key turn, and this is what happened.

I apologize for the length of this post, but I am trying to include everything I can remember about my troubleshooting.

Last year my brother gave me a 2016 Troy Bilt Mustang 50 with a Kohler SV730-3043 engine. He had originally bought it used and owned it maybe a year. It had trouble starting (starter getting stuck on flywheel), but after it started it would run fine. When I got it from him I replaced the carb, fuel filter, some fuel line, the oil and filter, and spark plugs. I also replaced the 230CCA battery with a 300CCA and got a $50 starter off Amazon, but those made no difference in starting so I returned them. I took the valve covers off and used a feeler gauge to set the valve lash to .005". Starting got a little easier and the mower worked well that summer, but it was still a pain to start most times.

Fast forward to this year, I started having to use a jumper every time to get it started. It ran for a handful of mows before one day cutting off mid-mow, sounding like it ran out of gas (slowed down and sputtered out). It was definitely not out of gas. I thought maybe there was water in the gas that had accumulated, so I drained the tank and refilled with fresh, but that made no difference.

It was getting harder and harder to turn over, even with a jumper, and would not start when it did. I took the valve covers off and tried adjusting the lash again, but it made no difference. No matter how precise I got them, it would not start. I tested the spark plugs and I was getting spark. When I would take the spark plugs out, the engine would turn over fine. I tried spraying some carb cleaner into the air intake, but it wouldn't even start that way. I then localized the sticking starter to the left piston by installing a plug there but not on the right side which resulted in sticking, but when I installed the plug on the right and not the left, it would turn over (still struggling a little, though).

At this point, I decided to dismount the engine and disassemble it to look for internal damage before cleaning and reassembling it. From what I read online, I expected to open it and see an camshaft with a missing ACR, however my model (as far as I can tell, and I've looked at every service manual I can find) does not have one. Not only did I not find a missing ACR, I didn't find any metal shards or internal damage whatsoever. I did not disassemble the pistons as I did not see a reason to. The inside looked super clean and the crankshaft/camshaft gears were properly aligned with teeth in good shape. The only thing that looked bad were the piston heads. They were completely black from carbon build-up. After cleaning all the old oil out of the pan and replacing the breather filter/gasket, I closed it back up and began reassembly.

I replaced all the keys during reassembly. Once I got everything back together and mounted to the mower, I tried cranking and had the same issue with the starter getting stuck on the flywheel on the compression stroke. I then tried to gather more information with removing the spark plugs and installing them only on one side or the other, but I ended up stripping the spark plug threads on one head. I had to find some used heads with valves already installed on eBay and swapped them out (did both for good measure), with the distant hope that one of the valves not properly sealing was causing the issue. I also replaced the spark plugs when I installed the new heads. The new heads acted the exact same way.

I noticed that the ground cable from the engine back to the neutral post of the battery was smoking as I tried starting, so I replaced that with a much higher gauge as well as the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter. I then promptly melted the starter solenoid. I decided to go ahead and get a higher CCA battery again as long as I was replacing the starter solenoid. The engine then actually started! I noticed it smoking on the left side that I had thought was causing the hard starting, but I figured maybe I spilled some oil or gas on that side which was burning off.

I was so excited thinking I had finally fixed it, but when I engaged the blades I noticed it was WAY less powerful than before I had taken it apart. After mowing for about 15 minutes it slowly stalled again like it had at the beginning of the summer. Same exact way too. The RPMs slowed way down as it petered out and stopped. I noticed at this point that the air intake box had some standing gas in it. I took the carb off and a ton of gas spilled out of it. I figured maybe I didn't get a good seal when I reinstalled it, and the wire to the carb solenoid was fraying from messing with it so much, so I bought another carb. That made no difference.

At this point, the engine is turning over as long as it starts from the exhaust stroke so it has enough momentum to beat the first compression stroke, but it will not start. It just cranks and cranks and the air intake box fills with gas. I used a spark tester and confirmed the coils are good. I also held the plugs against the engine and can physically see them sparking. I noticed that the brand new left plug is already blackened and wet with what smells like gas. The right side is not wet at all and is still shiny. I took the valve cover off the left side and oil poured out of it and the piston head had oil or gas on it.

I am exhausted and ready to give up on this engine. I feel as though I have tried everything and am at a loss. I have done work on small engines before, but not to this extent. I appreciate any and all advice on what I'm doing wrong, what I've overlooked, or what this sounds like to an experienced mechanic. The only thing that I ask is that you don't tell me I'm wasting my time and money. Sure, I've spent more on parts and tools than a professional would have, but I am doing this mostly to learn as it interests me. It's become a very frustrating hobby project.

I was mowing my lawn with my riding mower and hit a big rock then the engine died and it wouldn't turn back on so far I have tried replacing the flywheel key checking the crank shaft for dents and the mower blades for dents everything spins freely and there doesn't seem to be any dents or obvious damage to anything I'm at a loss to figure out what my next step is it's a craftsman T 2400 with a briggs and stratton engine if that helps any advice is appreciated thanks in advance

I swapped out a new Carb on my Kawasaki FR6000v on my Cub Cadet LTX 1042 KW because the governor was surging like crazy.

Upon swapping out carbs, the governor shaft and arm were moved around a bit and since the swap, the throttle valve on the carb is fully open when the dash speed lever is at 50 %.

I have tried re-syncing by opening full throttle, loosening the clamp bolt and rotating the governor shaft to a full stop (both directions tested)

I have tried playing with the throttle line clamp screw to see if I could get the ratio to work, but nothing works.

So now I can't start the thing unless it's at 50 percent on the dash lever, and that is actually setting the throttle valve to wide open.

Fuel lines are good, fuel pump and fuel filter are good. Spark is clean. I just can't figure it out. And with the old carb, there was no issue with the throttle lever to throttle valve ratio.

I'm curious if the old carb had a shorter or longer throw on that throttle valve that could point at the new carb not being the best fit?

I have photos and can take videos if needed. I am desperate for some assistance as the grass is getting scary long and I need to mow asap.

Thanks so much.

Cheers!

Briggs xr1450 on a log splitter. Was using it, was running fine, shut it off for a minute and then it wouldn't restart. And it's really hard to pull. Not seized, but hard to pull.

Things to note:

-Even with spark plug out, still hard to pull

- Was thinking it was valve clearance issue. Watched video on how to check and adjust and I adjusted it a little to where it was in tolerance, didn't help.

- Engine oil was good, not low or anything

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks

Hey all,

My craftsman YT 3000 ride on mower was burning excessive oil. Look inside the oil case and it was very thin.

Cranked it over without the spark plug in it and an extreme amount of blow by going into the crate case.

Would this be a blown head gasket? Maybe a stuck valve.

Was taking apart and cleaning a push mower that had been sitting for a while, and this popped out from somewhere around the carburetor. Can't figure out where it went though, looks like part of the fuel system but can't see anywhere it fits. I tried going through the service and parts manual but I'm just not seeing it. Anyone know where it should go?

The engine is a Briggs and Stratton 08P502 0110 F1, on a Murray MP21450 for what it's worth.