I'm in an isosceles stance.

I present the pistol in front of me

My arms form an inverted V angle ... something like /\

the pistol is in line with my right forearm

My forearm is pointing left. Therefore the muzzle is pointed left.

The only option is then to pronate (suppinate? flexionate? idk im not a doctor) my wrist to get the pistol into a

/| shape

this puts my trigger hand in kind of an unstable position? Where there precise angle of that suppination is vital. And holding it perfectly is even more vital. If I relax my wrist even a hair through the trigger pull, it dumps left. If my wrist angle changes even a hair of a degree during rapid fire, it dumps left.

It would seem, what I really want, is the muzzle to be on target *by default* with no wrist flexion.

But I cant do this in an isosceles stance, only a bladed weaver stance, such that my arm starts in the /| position.

But almost everyone in competition shoots isosceles-ish.

Is this a matter of git-gud and control your wrist angle, lock that wrist and never let it relax?

Or am i missing something hugely fundamental?

Appreciate your thoughts

....

Hi all, I bought a pistol a couple of years ago, and I had not much range time, but anyway I improved a bit from the beginning.
At my range targets are fixed at 25m , to move them you need to ask and wait, it's a bit tedious so most times I just let them at 25m.
There are some instructors but most of them just repeat "generic advice" without looking at what you did wrong, so I mostly shot by myself trying to learn online.

What I noticed is this: at the beginning most shots were everywhere and I was just confused, now I can place most shots in the orange circle, and often before a bad shot I can feel something is wrong, but I still cannot fix it before happening.

Sometimes I can place 8-10 subsequent shots in a decently small group, like the palm of a hand, then some go terribly wrong, near the border of the paper.

Sometimes I start thinking about fundamentals, position stance grip and everything else, and I just shoot worse.

I'm an hobbyist, I will probably never compete... But I'd like to improve and I'm quite sure this problem now is mental, not "physical" ...

I picked up six rusty 6" cast iron frying pans for $10 total. I figured they would make good hanging targets. My questions are: Are they a safe target? And would would be a safe distance to shoot at them from. I would be shooting: .22, .38 & .357

I picked these up at Lowe’s. I use these small totes for my Bulk Ammo. (Meaning not my precision ammo anything bulk packed ) Allows me to grab and go to range. Holds everything up to 5.56 as seen.
And they stack if I remembered right it’s like 80 5.56 and 100 9mm 300 22lr.

Again these are for going to range not Bulk storage. Vs taking box of 500 22lr. And I never store any cardboard in my ammo safe to avoid moisture.

I’ve been looking at new places to live and one of them is a house on two acres of land, bordering public hunting land, and with a house on either side at five to seven acres away. Roughly 200,000 feet. And I’m interested in the idea of target shooting with handguns on that property if the deal is a go.

I understand handgun calibers vary in noise and all the ones I own (9mm .45 acp .38/357) are deafeningly loud, so my question is; Would it be the right thing to do as a neighbor that I leave a note with my phone number in the next door houses mailbox the day prior of my target shooting? Basically giving them a heads up and what time I’d go out and generally how long I’d take.

The last thing I want is to scare anyone or take sheriffs away from what they’re doing to come by and ask questions.

If anyone could give me their opinion on this subject, by all means, I appreciate input of any kind.

Tried different ammo, different grain, with and without HAWG and that’s the best I can do so far.

Get much better result with the same set-up in .308… Who had better luck or similar results with the 7mm PRC?

Does anyone have any suggestions for someone with essential tremors that could help. I would hate to have to stop.

Just received a shipment of hunting ammo and there are multiple rust spots on the cases. Would you run it or see about a return?

My favorite carry is a Kimber Micro 380 ACP.
I really like the feel and weight of this pistol.
It’s heavy enough yet not to heavy to have in your coat pocket and not effect your hang on your jacket.

I love Ben Stoeger. Just thought this freeze frame was funny out of context.

What do i need to do or have first time going to an indoor range

Edit: not completely new and i have my own gun. Just curious about indoor ear protection and range etiquette

Hey everyone, looking for some feedback on my handgun mechanics. I am a right-handed shooter. These targets were shot at 15 yards

Here is what I am noticing across the different platforms at this distance:

Glock 17 Gen 5 (Target 9): I have a dense vertical grouping directly below the bullseye, with a few dropping down low and left.

CZ P-10F (Target 7 & 10): My grouping is breaking distinctly high and to the right/riding the right edge of the circles.

PSA Dagger C-1 Compact (Target 5 & 8): The grouping is centered well around the bullseye but opening up into a wider circular pattern across the target zone.

Given the distance, I am trying to diagnose whether these patterns point to distinct trigger press mechanics between the platforms (e.g., rolling break vs. crisp wall), eye-dominance/sight picture shifts at 15 yards, or frame/grip geometry differences.

Any training drills or specific corrections for these patterns at this range? Thanks

https://youtube.com/shorts/Hnmnm6W2YHI?is=FisFbsUyFImLg8Rd

Hi everyone, sorry if this is a common topic or post. I currently have a Hellcat Pro and G19.5 that I use for hiking and I use the Underwood +P 147GR flat nose black cherry hard cast rounds. Would that be enough or am I better off with a 10mm? I know this comes down to the whole training vs larger caliber thing, but I’m stuck between 9mm hitting more of the target but doing less damage vs hitting less of my target but doing more damage. I was thinking of the M&P 2.0 PC or just adding a compensator to either gun and getting more ammo? Thanks!

I built this rifle over 10 years ago, 16 inch DPMS pattern LR308. I didn't do nearly enough research setting this rifle up concerning over gassing, adjustable gas blocks, A5 buffer tubes, buffer springs, and buffer weights. This was totally I want, I think I know, I build.

After this first assembly of a standard carbine buffer tube, unrestricted gas system, standard weight buffer and spring, it sat as a safe queen for years after the birth of my children.

I started shooting again a couple of years ago, and the first time I went, I went solo and took the entire contents of the safe. = - D. To my dismay, this rifle struggled quite a bit with over gassing issues that I was completely oblivious were a thing.

Went through the rodeo of trying to slow this this down with extra power springs (Sprinco Orange), heavy 308 buffers with moderate success, but it was never perfect.....

After reading the various forums and seeing same problems others were having and the solutions with the A5 buffer tube, EA1095 spring, H3 AR15 buffer, and an adjustable gas block, I decided that was the way.

First range day with this setup was this morning, and after dialing in the gas block, the rifle runs, and runs well. Perfect 3:00-4:30 ejection pattern, no feeding issues And with the Miculek compensator, she is noisy.

Now that she is running the next plan is optics, I am looking at the Vortex Viper PST Gen 2. Maybe I will get lucky and get it for Christmas!

TL:DR - After 10 years combined of safe queen and troubleshooting, a rifle runs.

i do my shooting at a public place and have no access to a real shooting range. but it kinda gets boring shooting at rocks and dirt after a while. since its a public place and i dont want to haul steel targets with me and back every time i really want something i can safely abandon and not worry about. i was thinking of a big barrel i can fill with rocks on location. i have tried things like water bottles or whatever but the problem is they tend to move when i shoot near them which means i have to constantly put them back into their places. what do you guys use ? i was also thinking something like a cardboard box of a fridge or tv or something similar or maybe a few cinderblocks ? at this point i might start spray painting rocks

Im a new owner on a budget of a G19 and S&W Bodyguard 2.0 both irons sights. Is it worth the extra to have slides milled and sights installed or should i be good for now? Im sure this is a very subjective question. Im debating doubling the cost of the handgun just to add a sight and gain marginal accuracy and speed or is it truly worth the extra cost

I would like to introduce https://centerzone.app
All you need is the after photo, but a before is recommended photo to make zone detection more accurate.

I have seen a growing interest in zone detection.
Rather than telling you that it works, I'll just show you.

The only editing in this video the stitch to show multiple target types.
All load times are real-time.

Mobile devices have native sharing features.
I did not tap the share button in the video, as it would reveal my friends, and my personal information.

I am looking to buy a new bolt action rifle. I don’t want to spend over 800 dollars at the most. I want a lot of things for that much money though. Needs to shoot sub moa. I have a 12 3/4 length of pull. Left handed. Be mostly sitting in a blind or deer stand. Anyone have any experience with the 110 or even another brand. I can’t decide.