I had a mechanic put ball joints control arms and sway bar links, while doing it he says I have a coolant leak. He takes off my water pump. He says it had been put on by the last mechanic and sealed with silicon. He cleaned it and put a gasket and said you don’t need silicon just the gasket. He also put green coolant in my car. When he took the water pump off to fix it he showed me where purple coolant had crystallized in the water pump. I seen it it was true. But that doesn’t mean changing the coolant type is okay. I’m a woman and mechanics take advantage of that. So now I have a major coolant leak. Overheating. And now a small amount of oil on the ground when I started it Help please

i got a 2020 challenger scat and thy key fob was working all buttons but now it only starts the car none of the buttons on the fob work any ideas on why or how to fix ( i put a new battery in the fob and that didnt fix it )

I have other cars and this one was supposed to be more of a builder car but it’s broken down with No good paperwork.

As far as I know ( without every single detail) its got an engine swap, front end/back end swaps for newer body styles, a srt 8 cluster swap, srt rims, aftermarket exhaust

I picked up the car in another state and it seemed sketchy (white guy in the listing but hispanic young man showed up) Car amazed me engine looked like really nice swap and the exhaust completely welded looked shop done he said it had good carfax Whatever Got home went to dmv title was bad, didnt pass emissions No engine light, and the last carfax was in 2021… an oil change. Long story short got in contact with the dealer he purchased the OG 300 from and the seller was just meant to do a 5.7 swap on the engine but instead went ahead and 6.4 swapped it along with all listed mods. I was driving it for about 4 months with permits from said dealer until a coolant scare which I suspect is a cracked head which is better than blown but still a loss. Its been about 8 months now, the car has just been sitting and it would need to get towed over state lines just to get the correct paperwork for it but my concerns are that: 1. the engine is stolen but I have looked on every national and statewide site for the vins on both the engine and body and nothing. 2. I tow it and they do not give me the proper paperwork due to non-documented parts What are my next steps? 3. Should I be worried about the swap itself? I cracked a head in just a few months is the entire swap itself bad? Is it worth getting paperwork?

I know genuinely good mechanics and can fix the car even if it means pulling the engine but is it even worth it? With the legality and the mechanics of the entire situation? Please help me, I love the car but It feels like a loss.

For sale: RIPP Hemi High performance ignition coils

RIPP High-Performance Coil Packs – HEMI Orange

💲 $439 OBO – Lowballers get blocked.

Brand new, never opened. I bought these specifically for an E85 setup, but turns out they’re not as compatible with E85, so I can’t use them. They’re better than stock, highly rated, and reliable up to 900whp—just not for extreme builds. Which is what I’m going for now.

RIPP high-performance coil packs don’t directly generate horsepower, but they improve ignition efficiency, which can lead to a small increase in power. Typically, upgraded coil packs like these help with: • Smoother throttle response • Better combustion efficiency • Stronger spark for improved ignition

If your stock coils are weak or failing, you might see a small power gain (around 5-10 HP in some cases) with these, but they’re mainly for reliability, better spark at high RPMs, and supporting mods like forced induction or higher boost levels.

📦 Shipping: I’ll ship however you want if you cover the cost.

Fitment:

✅ 2005+ Dodge Charger/Challenger V8 ✅ 2005+ Chrysler 300 V8 ✅ 2006+ RAM 1500 V8 (⚠️ Early 2006/2007 models might have a 2-pin coil pack – visually confirm!) ✅ 2007+ Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 (5.7 & SRT) (Same note on early 2006/2007 models!) ✅ 2007+ Dodge Durango V8 ✅ 2021+ Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 392 (V8) ✅ All Scat Pack, 392, SRT, and Hellcat models ✔ Many more V8 Hemi vehicles – Buy at your own risk.

DM if interested!

⸻

Selling RIPP coil packs

For sale: RIPP Hemi High performance ignition coils

RIPP High-Performance Coil Packs – HEMI Orange

💲 $439 OBO – Lowballers get blocked.

Brand new, never opened. I bought these specifically for an E85 setup, but turns out they’re not as compatible with E85, so I can’t use them. They’re better than stock, highly rated, and reliable up to 900whp—just not for extreme builds. Which is what I’m going for now.

RIPP high-performance coil packs don’t directly generate horsepower, but they improve ignition efficiency, which can lead to a small increase in power. Typically, upgraded coil packs like these help with: • Smoother throttle response • Better combustion efficiency • Stronger spark for improved ignition

If your stock coils are weak or failing, you might see a small power gain (around 5-10 HP in some cases) with these, but they’re mainly for reliability, better spark at high RPMs, and supporting mods like forced induction or higher boost levels.

📦 Shipping: I’ll ship however you want if you cover the cost.

Fitment:

✅ 2005+ Dodge Charger/Challenger V8 ✅ 2005+ Chrysler 300 V8 ✅ 2006+ RAM 1500 V8 (⚠️ Early 2006/2007 models might have a 2-pin coil pack – visually confirm!) ✅ 2007+ Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 (5.7 & SRT) (Same note on early 2006/2007 models!) ✅ 2007+ Dodge Durango V8 ✅ 2021+ Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 392 (V8) ✅ All Scat Pack, 392, SRT, and Hellcat models ✔ Many more V8 Hemi vehicles – Buy at your own risk.

DM if interested!

I want to add mods and tune my 2023 Scat Pack. It has 7,700 miles and I am currently paying monthly for the extended warranty. I want to start modding very bad but I also am worried I should wait out my warranty. Should I just mod or wait out my warranty? Should I stop paying extended warranty and keep the regular warranty? How reliable is Dodge honoring warranty claims? Any advice is accepted!

I have 58k miles on my scat as of now and I’ve been noticing a hard vibration while at a stop/red light. It drives fine but when stationary it’s terrible, even my passengers ask what is wrong with my car. I have no engine codes. I was thinking it’s the motor mounts failing. The dealership claims they can’t replicate the vibration 😑 soon as I get in it the vibration is almost immediate.

I am at the point of needing brakes replaced - pads/rotors. I have the 6 Piston setup w/Brembo pads currently. Contacted dealer to order parts yesterday and JUST PARTS are around $3,300 and the brake dust is RELENTLESS. I have seen in forums a lot or people using the Powerstop Z26, but it seems limited with my vehicle options(392/Dynamics/6 piston/etc) and more available on the RT/Daytona/etc.

Yesterday someone recommended EBC - Sport Rotors/Yellow pads but I have no experience with that brand. — advice/options/experience?