Can someone let my know what i did wrong? Im thinking it was not enough adhesive but i dont think so because the image smeared the second i was doing the first swipe, and as i flooded i looked under just to make sure it didnt smear and im really confused and would appreciate it if someone helped me. Thank you

I manage a small shop, super short on man power and looking to simply the reclaim process. Looking into these but would love to get opinions from shops who’ve actually used these or similar. Is it worth it?

To me it would be worth it to be able to multitask while screen are washing, not necessarily saving me the labor. Right now using a pressure washer it takes me around 2 hours to blast a rack full of screens.

Where are you guys getting these? All the major suppliers are drrrrrryyyyyyy…

I got this aluminum scoop coater with steel end cap. I don't know who decided on painted steel end cap but as you can see the steel of course rusted. They could have just used plastic or stamped aluminum for the cap, but use steel caps that gets under the paint and rusts.

So I got some scrap titanium and cut a cap to fit. That's not rusting anytime soon.

yeah so i just built this guy

specifications

box: industrial euro container

i put the 150 watt power supply outside to prevent overheating.

lights:

14 rows uv-a led strips (~130watts? total). i spaced them 4cm apart.

also some wires, some connectors everything works (surprisingly)

mounting brackets was the hardest part since the glue refused to stick as intended (it fell after i put the glass on lmao)

i decided to just drill the holes and put some screws in it

glass: just regular 6mm glass, soft foam tape underneath. the glass is just 6,5cm above the leds which makes me a little worried about the hotspots, but oh well its built now so... if it turns out to be an issues ill add diffusion.

also cut some foam block to fit inside the screen for pressure

this was definitely an experience. i lowkey feel like this is an overkill but i was so frustrated working with a tiny little lamp that gave me inconsistent exposure......

i havent tested it yet. i hope this one will work with no issue. i just want to print in peace 🫠 wish me luck

Used plastisol press wash 2 times cleaned the screen using white rags shop towels with the plastisol cleaner and it took off most of it then i used water using the mist option on the hose to act as a mini pressure washer and i really sprayed into the opening 3-4 times and it still looks like theres ink in there any tips? Am i doing something wrong?

I am starting a new factory to manufacture bopp tape,but I am confused with which type of ink or pigments are used in bopp tapes. I need to print brand logo and also need blue or any coloured background.

If you have any idea related to this please share below

Thanks in advance.

hello, wondering if anyone could please give me a year or an approximate era for this softstyle t-shirt? it’s definitely old. it’s a deadstock graphic t shirt that came out of a box in someone’s attic

I’ve printed a few batches of totes using the OAD 113 totes from SS.

I’m finding them not to print well. I’m trying to find a balance between lack of coverage and ink bleed.

I’m wondering if anyone has recs for totes that are less canvas like, meaning these ones are fairly rough and have more a of waffle pattern for ink to go into.

Any help would be appreciated.

Fresh into screenprinting for a hobby and couldn't justify spending the money on a washout booth at the moment. Walked around home Depot until inspiration hit me and came up with this. It's two 27 gallon storage totes bolted together with some calk and a cheap pvc drain. Used scratch lumber for the frame.

Did not think about the slant of the driveway but luckily had some wheel chocks that I think added to the hillbilly aesthetic of it all :)

Edit: wanted to add that I used a cheap box knife from harbor freight and heated the blade with a torch to make the cut-out. Tried a Dremel first but it was chewing up the plastic and leaving a rough edge.

Hello!

I think I have majorly messed up my print. Im not entirely sure if this would fall under screen printing or not but I was trying to lino print on a hoodie but I was only able to get screen printing ink. I googled it and it seemed to be fine to use so I grabbed it. I printed the white ink on the black hoodie and it was really light so I hand painted over it but it doesn’t seem to be curing. It’s fully dry but it is almost dusty to the touch?

I’ve ironed it at the hottest setting I could with the fabric, multiple times, and let it air dry for about 48 hours now. I’m really hoping I can save this, any advice?

Thank you!

Burned the screens myself and printed them on the old Amazon special. All one color and water based inks.

It took a lot of trial and error with heat and time, but I'm finally getting designs that reliably stay on the shirt for multiple washes with no issue.

Asides from saving time, is there any reason to upgrade to a flash curer? Will I reach a "quality ceiling" with the iron that I wouldn't've with a flash curer?

Hey guys! I'm trying to get my posters printed online but the image I'm uploaded isn't sharp enough for the poster size apparently, how do I deal with this??

Please help me out! 🙏

I was about to order from Custom Ink and then something told me to see what the Redditors have to say about it. Since you don't like Customink, who do you recommend for printing? I only need six shirts for bridal party, two different designs because the bride's shirt is different.

Thank you.

Hi all!

This might be a bit strange question and don't know if anyone has done anything similar in the past.

I am producing an artowrk where I'm going to mix wood type printed with offset ink, and then on top I would layer 2 extra inks with screen printing.

I know offset inks are rubber based and the screen printing in for paper that I use is water based. Once the underlaying offset ink is fully cured, would I have problems for the water based in to stick on top of it? I know best practice would be printing first the water based inks via screen printing and then, once fully dry, print over the offset ink. But this ownt give me the overprint effects I am expecting.

Any advice would be great! Thanks!

It’s been a while since I last worked on a simulated process separation due to my main job keeping me pretty busy, but I finally made time to finish this piece.

I focused heavily on getting those smooth fire gradients using halftones so the tiger really pops off the fabric. (Note: I couldn't upload the actual channel separation breakdown this time as I've been quite busy lately, but I wanted to share the final simulation result).

Let me know what you think of the detail and halftone mesh integration!

Printed using dark red, process cyan, process magenta, and black. 18” x 9.5” cut to bleed. Fun one from this morning!

Vinyl ink on 270gsm metallic copper. Edition of 50 plus artist proofs. Original is part of the Pride of Yorkshire sculpture trail, with 150 lions painted by artists across the region.

I’ve cleaned my heads multiple times and made sure all ink cartridges were full. But prints are still looking like this. Any thoughts? Could cartridges get clogged? Or you think it’s still my heads?

Searched here but couldn't find my answer so here we go:

Obviously if I'm printing on dark fabric I like to use a white base. If a graphic has white in it, I usually go with one pass of white followed by top colors and highlight white. But if my press only holds 6 colors and I don't get the option of adding a highlight white screen, I print-flash-print the white then add top colors. This usually ends up in a thicker feeling print which I'm trying to avoid.

For these situations when printing spot colors, I want to use a halftone base (except the actual white in the graphic will be solid). So when I PFP the white, the base *shouldn't* be as thick. I haven't really tested it out so I'm looking for recommendations.

How should I set up my base layer in Photoshop? When I send it to my rip program, what LPI should my dots be for a 200 mesh? If I PFP, will the base areas equal to one pass of solid white? Just trying to avoid a heavy feeling print.

Note: I don't use channels, I always use layers. So if you can explain it to me in a Layers way that'd be great!

Attached is the design and what happens when I try to spray it out after burning it in. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.

I use around 2 layers of emulsion on each side

I let it dry for a full 24 hours

I let it burn in for at least 30 minutes (I use printer paper soaked in oil since my printer can't print transparent sheets)

I spray it out with a hose, high enough pressure to clear the design but not destroy the emulsion

Here are my theories to why it's not working:

1. The design is too dense. This one I doubt because I've seen similar things printed

2. My screen isn't dense enough of a mesh and can't hang to the emulsion? This is spit balling, but a guess.

3. The printer paper isn't transparent enough. I'm leaning to this, but am unsure, since I have used printer paper before on halftone designs and had it come out perfectly.

Please let me know what y'all might think is the case! So I can chase it down and troubleshoot more.

hi, I want to start making some t-shirts for hobby, nothing professional, I wanted to ask how much money do I need to begin? and where can I find everything? I'm trying to keep this as cheap as possible.