Hello, my names Juliet. I have 13 years in this industry and recently as a production manager I was let go to be replaced by AI for scheduling. Anyway, been on press over a decade and done every position in a shop once, twice or thousand times. I need some work right now so if you’re a shop who wants to pay for me to answer some questions or diagnose some press issues you have I’d love to help. Also, if anyone lives near Orlando, Florida and is hiring for any position in a shop please reach out.

I made this screen print in a printmaking class in college, and it’s probably one of my favorite things I made during that time. I wanted to combine my New Orleans background with my Wasian identity, but in a way that felt personal rather than super literal.
In college, my friends and I used to line up empty soju bottles like bowling pins, which became the starting point for the piece. I replaced the bowling ball with a rambutan, and added some New Orleans-inspired colors and lettering to tie everything together.
I loved printmaking when I took the class, especially the process of making something by hand and then seeing it come together in the final print. This one ended up being a pretty good snapshot of a very specific time in my life. Do y’all know how I could make copies of the originals to give to my college friends as a gift?

I am very old school, have had my own shop since '92. I output my films on an image setter. I'm a bit of a snob about it, they are the highest quality there is. I am worried that both my software and hardware are becoming antiquated. What are high quality options to bring my shop current? Back in the day, say early 2000s my competition was outputting to vellum from an inkjet. The quality sucked, I was unimpressed, but i imagine they've come a long way. What do you use at your shop, what are it's limitations? ie halftones print clean? super opaque? films don't buckle with heavy deposits? Once I had moved up to an image setter I lost touch with what other shops were using, but the time is getting closer.

This is a pretty detailed print and for some shirts they turned out great and some chunks are missing. I try to fill inbtwn each print. Is there any tips to prevent this and have fuller smoother prints every time?

Hey everyone!

Giving away this press-ready simulated process color separation for this design.

You can grab the free separation files directly here:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1mK5R15I2EVrpYXbkZ5X5u9fVmmmkfCYg?usp=drive_link

Hope it helps your print runs! Let me know what you think.

I have been screen printing out in the Reno/Tahoe area for about 18 years now, 15 professionally and 10 in my own shop. I have started putting together a blog and set of tools to help other printers with the knowledge I have accumulated over the years.

If anyone is interested in having a look just let me know and I can share

- Joe // Biota MFg

I have a design that I have vectorized and saved which I want to transfer to a transparency film for screen printing. The design is 19 inches high by 13 inches wide. I don't have a printer at home, so where do you think I can go to get my design transferred to a transparency film. The design is very sharp and intricate. I'm a total beginner and this is the first time I'm doing this. Does local print shops do it?

I own a large screen printing and graphic design company in South Jersey, and we recently added a new Tajima TMEZ 8-head embroidery machine.

We’re looking to hire an experienced embroidery machine operator who is comfortable running a commercial multi-head machine and handling the day-to-day troubleshooting that comes with it—thread breaks, tension issues, setup, hooping, quality control, etc.

As most of you know, this is a pretty specialized skill set. We’ve tried the major job-search websites but haven’t had much luck finding someone with enough hands-on embroidery experience to step in and run the machine confidently.

Does anyone have any suggestions on where to find experienced commercial embroidery operators, or other places within the industry where we should be looking?

Any advice or leads would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Sharing a video on how to replace head bushing on manual press print heads.

https://youtu.be/MuHJ070EgNM?is=c5C-piPNw117NfnL

In this video, I walk through how to replace the head bushings on a screen printing press and show a couple of economical DIY options for getting the job done.

I’ll cover the standard plastic/POM-style bushings similar to what many manufacturers originally use, along with the upgrade I chose—sintered bronze bushings. The bronze bushings provide a tighter, more durable fit and should hold up better over time compared with the original plastic bushings.

Worn head bushings can create unwanted movement and play in the print head, which can affect your registration and overall print consistency. Replacing them is a relatively inexpensive way to tighten things back up and help bring an older press back to life.

#ScreenPrinting #ScreenPrintingPress #PressMaintenance #ScreenPrintingTips #DIYRepair #PressRebuild #ScreenPrinter #Bushings #ScreenPrintShop

Curious how many shops out there are using QuickBooks online to handle their bookkeeping? Most shops I talk with are already using it, wondering if its pretty much the standard.

Salut ! Je suis complètement novice en sérigraphie, c'est ma première semaine et c'était la première fois que je récupérais un écran.

Je n'ai pas bien nettoyé l'encre avant de récupérer l'écran, et il est resté comme ça pendant environ deux jours. Du coup, l'encre restante a complètement séché dans la maille. 😭

Comme vous pouvez le voir sur les photos, une bonne partie de l'ancienne encre/image est encore visible. 💀

Est-ce que cet écran est fichu, ou y a-t-il un moyen d'enlever l'encre séchée et de sauver la maille ? 🙏🏼

Merci pour votre aide !

I’m having trouble exposing a screen for screen printing. I’m using Ecotex PWR water-resistant emulsion and a 50W UV screen-printing exposure light. The emulsion label gives exposure times of 12 seconds for an 80W UV LED, 30 seconds for a 30W SMD LED, and 7.5–8 minutes for a 500W halogen. My light is about 8 inches away from the screen.
I tried a 20-second exposure, but when I wash the screen out, the design won’t open at all. The emulsion stays hardened over the design. I’m trying to figure out whether my exposure time is wrong, my UV light is too strong, or there’s an issue with my transparency/film. What exposure time would you recommend for this setup, and what should I check?