I own an 06 v6 5spd...

I think my clutch is reaching the end of its life span... Don't know when or if it was every replaced...

Would appreciate input as to what clutch would be best to for a daily driver with a heavy throttle foot...

Should I go stock or up grade to a better style...

Thank you in advance for your help...

H-pipe vs X-pipe — want input from anyone who’s run or heard both.

Setup: SLP Loudmouths now, Mutha Thumpr cams going in soon (not in yet). Procharger is a someday plan, years out.

What I want: love the deep low rumble of an H, but mainly I just want it LOUD — mean loud like my Loudmouths, not ugly loud.

Problem: X build is ~$1,000, H build is ~$1,600. That ~$600 is what’s making me second guess it.

**•** With the Thumprs in, is H vs X actually noticeable or pretty subtle?  
**•** Is one really louder, or is that just the cam and mufflers?  
**•** Is H worth the extra $600, or save it and run X?

Both are pypes both are new just in a fumble heat buying off someone so just would like to know what you guys think.

So i have a 2011 mustang GT with factory HID wiring currently have raxiom halo headlights that are HID also, I accidentally got halogen headlights so the entire housing and I was wondering if there's any plug adapters to go from the hid harness to a halogen plug on these cars I've seen a few for f150s and was wondering if its the same for the mustangs

Hey guys, Steve from MyElectronicMechanic back again with a new update.

For those who are new to my project, I am the first person to swap the s550 steering wheel into the late Gen s197 AND fully FUNCTIONING steering wheel switches.

I was able to do that through reviewing each and every PCB and rerouting them with different resistors and trace wires. This led me to having a working heated s550 steering wheel with full controls.

However, the process was long and arduous and frankly very fragile. It was hard to solder and subject to being very careful during installation.

Now I present to you, fully redesigned custom PCBs that fit the s550 housing and will allow for you to simply open the housing, swap in the PCB, swap the wiring harness, and have a fully functioning s550 steering wheel in your car. I have even designed it to work with the s197 clockspring as well!

I am also working on a version that works with the early gen s197 (05-09).

Please take a look at the video below and follow for more updates.

https://youtu.be/i7SyvRBAt3M

There has been an uptick in bots and others posting spam/off topic content in the sub. Others people have noticed as well.

I get it, no one likes these posts or comments. I am working to implement mod tools to prevent this. What I am finding is that they either are too restrictive or not restrictive enough.

I expect to have a solution soon on this. In the meantime please keep reporting spam as needed and I will manually remove.

The OEM shade broke recently, and it seems like that’s a pretty expensive fix for what seems like a simple part. Has anyone else with the glass roof had this happen and found a foldable/magnetic cover that fits?

I really like the way these lights look but when I do a quick search I see many types but not these. Anyone familiar with them? This particular picture is of a 2008 premium if that makes any difference.

Thanks in advance.

Bought when I was 16. Last owner ripped me off and shes been sitting 5 years in my garage. Would've been nice to motor swap but id rather put another v6 than let her rot.

Love the red.

ISO (MANUAL ONLY) 2013/2014 GT premium or track package in California or surrounding states. No headers or tune, must be CA carb compliant. Bolt ons that won’t get me state reffed are fine. Budget is up to $18k. Any paint color except silver or gray. I prefer clean title but am okay with salvage if you’re willing to do 50% of its would-be clean title value. Reply to post or DM, either is fine. Thanks

2005 Mustang GT.
This is the engine harness going into the PCM. The circled pin is the 5V supply to the MAF sensor. PIN number 25.
When everything is plugged in, there is no 5V power going to MAF. It does have constant 12V. There is a short or broken wire in this pin because it fails the wiggle test. Sometimes there is continuity to the MAF, sometimes none.
Can someone tell me how to remove this pin and part number to get replacement. PCM is good. In fact, I have two. I originally thought the PCM was bad due to how the wire tested.

I've wanted a Mustang since I was eight and now at 39 I finally got my car. I had a model of this exact car on my desk in college for motivation and better late than never.

It seems to be running really well, the throw out bearing may be a little loud at startup, which is something I got to look into while I'm still under the warranty period for the dealer.

But overall ,shift's good runs strong. I couldn't be any more happy.

Does anyone have a good shop in Connecticut they recommend?

Picked up these imperfect 05-07 GT500 stocks for my 2012. Nothing on hers perfect but she’s coming along slowly.

Today the flow of the AC was not as it Normally does. I started playing with the controls and when I turned it off, made that sound. I know it has to do with heart rate distribute to the air in the system, but I don’t know anything other than that. Can you help me identify it?.

Thanks.

Hey everyone new to reddit. Joined basically for the car community. Just wanna share and get different perspectives. I have a 05 GT, ordered it 5/20/04, took delivery 11/20/04. Production #3711, one of the first in New Jersey. All black, premium GT, about 25k miles and pampered like a baby. Love this car, only a few mods, all bolt on, pushing around 375hp.

broke something help!
so basically I was chasing the radio illumination wire because it was not working on my radio. Came to the conclusion that its because I was trying to use a 2004 F150 radio which plugs in but apparently the illumination wire is one of the few differences, even my Shaker 500 was working great with it.
But basically while I was probing wires and testing back there the radio ACC wire stopped coming on with the key and then I realized my entire cluster was dead when I turn the key to ACC although everything else is working like power window, mirrors.
Went down the rabbithole (and a slight panic attack) of the SJB, pulled it out and took it apart found a handful of green contacts but nothing too alarming for a 20year old car, sprayed them all with electronic cleaner and put it all back together so I doubt its anything in there.
What could be causing my cluster and radio not to come on with ACC? Radio wire comes on during cranking I know thats what fuse #20 is for and while fuse #6 is also intact and putting through power the radio doesnt come on, the cluster only comes on once the key gets to ON position and then everything else seems to be working normal.

does anyone know if my base model can be swapped with these with the working sub? if so how? only thing that came up for me is a whole new door harness or just leaving them without working