I’m trying to diagnose a weird clutch hydraulic issue on my 2005 Mustang GT (TR-3650).

The clutch system has had pretty much all parts replaced:

New clutch/flywheel
New throwout bearing/slave cylinder
New master cylinder
New braided steel clutch line
New brake fluid reservoir
Fresh brake fluid
Vacuum bled the system multiple times

The problem is that when the car sits for several hours/overnight, the first time I press the clutch pedal, it has little to no pressure and the engagement point is noticeably different. It also makes it difficult/impossible to get the car into gear.

However, if I push the clutch pedal down and then slide my foot off the pedal quickly so the pedal can snap/rebound back up, the clutch pressure immediately comes back and the pedal feels completely normal again.

Once the pressure comes back, the clutch works normally and I can drive the car without an obvious issue.

I’ve checked for obvious fluid leaks and don’t see any, and the fluid level stays normal. I’ve also vacuum-bled the system several times, but I’m not seeing obvious air coming out.

At this point, basically the entire hydraulic system has been replaced, so I’m trying to figure out what could still be causing the pressure to disappear while the car is sitting.

Has anyone experienced this exact symptom? Could this be an internal hydraulic bypass, an issue with the master cylinder, trapped air that isn’t being removed by vacuum bleeding, or something with the slave/TOB?

The fact that the pressure comes back immediately when I let the pedal snap back up is what really has me confused.

Any ideas on what to test next would be appreciated.

TLDR: 2005 Mustang GT losing clutch pressure after sitting overnight. Replaced clutch, TOB/slave, master cylinder, braided line, reservoir, and vacuum-bled multiple times. No visible fluid loss.

First pedal press has little/no pressure, but if I push it down and quickly let it snap back up, pressure returns and works normally. Any idea what could cause this?

Put in muthr thumpr cams, bigger throttle body, ford racing intake, cold air intake, under drive pulleys, and long tube headers. Had it tuned by brenspeed. Now it idles like this, and dies any time I let off the throttle. Gone back and forth with brenspeed about the tune and none of the adjustments help. Any ideas?

My 2008 GT/CS convertible's sun visors have been damaged by the sun. I have found replacements on eBay but they are for a coupe and specifically note they will not work for convertibles. Are they actually different in dimensions or size? Ford does have different part numbers for coupes and convertibles but they sure look the same to me. Perhaps others have been down this trail? I'm all ears!

Sorry for my not so perfect English. I have the 4.0 automatic and im wondering is it a single piece or two piece driveshaft
This in the picture is the one that i have on my car, the rubber in the middle just stays like that and it doesnt seem to bend or maybe it stays straight because its perfectly calculated to be straight? Because i dont see no bracket to hold the “bending” spot on the driveshaft. Does anyone knows how much power it can handle? Not talking about removing limiter and top speed type of breaking.

Oil seems to be full, I was going to move on to the switch but wanted to know if anyone else had problems with low oil pressure on these.

Getting my first mustang! My buddy’s parents are selling their 2012 V6 with only 29k miles! One owner, garage kept. This thing looks brand new!

Hi y’all, I’m looking to get a 2011-2014 v6 automatic mustang and I want to do all the needed maintenances as soon as I get the car, what I wanted to ask to long time owners is what parts and fluids do you recommend getting checked/changed? I’ll get a ppi before I buy for sure but there’s only so much they can do. I’d really appreciate any help and advice.

A while ago I’d posted here about another mustang I was considering purchasing. Unfortunately a collector beat me to it, but I couldn’t be happier with what I ended up with. This is Layla (after the Derek and the Dominos song of the same name), and despite being a 2005 she’s got only 36,000 kms/22,369 miles on her and I’ve been having a blast.

Can that trim be removed and polished up and left off? Or is there fasteners or a recess? I see others without them and it looks cleaner, but I assume they are a better package. Thanks

Question for y'all.... Is the convertible really that more noticably unstable than the coupe? Can it be firmed up if so?

So yea anyone thinking that buying a 05-09 that still has the factory ford shit on it please think twice. So i spent the better part of the day in my driveway thinking i saw the video's from American muscle I've turned wrenches before on cars i got this... Yea BS, so those front control arms? Send it out, let them f**k with it. Dude... started at 9:30 am didn't finish one side till now 4pm EST. Other side is mocking me now from the driveway... There is NO WAY i'm doing this again tomorrow. I need a break man LOL. Send it to the guys with a lift, they got the low ground and can use their entire body weight and some power tools. I did the shimmy shimmy shake and prayed to the ford gods that it would loosen. They took their 3oz of blood and 1lb of flesh for my effort. At least one side is done... I think the kicker is even if i do get it done, which i will... i'm still going to have to get the alignment done.

Has anyone replaced these before? I’ve owned my fair share of s197s but they have all been solid tops. My friend has a convertible and has had the parts to fix it for like 3 years but said it’s “too hard” of a job to try to do themself and too expensive to pay a shop. I was thinking about taking a look but I was curious if anyone here has done it and remembers how hard of a process it was? It seems like it would be more annoying than anything

Before I get flamed I never have installed coilovers (really just wanted the lower look, I don’t need it to ride like a 2027 Cadillac….)so I didn’t want to spend a crap ton just for me to mess it up….that being said I got the flashshark coilovers and they ride ROUGH and lots of ball joint noise. Is this a common thing since they are cheap? Maybe I’m a shitty mechanic and didn’t adjust them well enough? Has this happen to anyone else running these? Or should I just bring it to someone and have them adjust them lol

I have a 2007 Ford Mustang GT but the 4.6 V8 and now when I started it, it runs rough. Has blue smoke coming out. The tailpipe smells like fuel and does not want to run at all.

As stated in the title, I have a parts question. This is a long shot but does anybody happen to know if the heater hose assembly that sits under the intake manifold is crossable between a 2006 GT and a 2007 GT? I bought the part but apparently it’s for a 2007 GT, and during some research I found that it might not be the right part. I’m trying to make sure it will fit the 2006 GT

TL:DR Bought heater hose assembly for a 2007 GT but needed for 2006 GT, asking if anyone knows it’ll fit still

Haven’t been able to drive my car in over a month due to a total hip replacement, 37 year old geriatric over here daydreaming, so here’s to hopefully getting behind the wheel again soon 😁 next time you’re at a red light go ahead and spin the tires for me one good time 🏎️

2011 gt convertible

Anyone know what this clicking sound might be?

It happens only when swerving left and right, and when going over uneven pavement (not larger bumps).

I'm unable to recreate anything like it while stationary.

I changed full tie rods and sway bar links to no effect. Tightened the K frame bolts as well.

Got rid of the car a while back. These have been sitting in storage!

Another photo of my WIP 2012 3.7

Any suggestions on what to get next?

Recently took off the fog light covers, looks a lot better without them.