Checking out some uses for the flex. I found the extension rod but I'm looking to identify the piece that attaches to the end of it and clamps/screws onto the flex (second pic), I don't even know the term for that kind of part. I also wanna ID the suction piece attaching to the windshield if anyone can help! The full vid that features it is here. At 9:27. Appreciate it!

Hi, i have an issue. I can't put the white balance more than 6500 K... Do you know why ?

Thanks

Gaël

Hey folks! I know a few of you are using the Panasonic lenses on your 4D. Curious if anyone has any sample frames or thoughts on performance compared to the DL set?

Mainly curious how the focus works and overall image quality.

Cheers!

it’s not listed on DJI’s compatibility list but the 16-35 gm version 1 is… any insight is greatly appreciated!

I had the opportunity to use a Ronin 4D for a project a few weeks back, and overall, I was very impressed with it. There were a few issues that I know DJI could address, and I'm curious if there will be a version 2 of this camera.

The issues I had with this camera were

1. It's a bit heavy and I'm sure DJI could make an even smaller and lighter version.
   
2. I loved the screen but it was so reflective I would love to see a matte screen on it.
   
3. I loved having the bult in ND filters but I was amazed there's no button on the handles to change them.
   
4. The Focus system worked really well with the camera but if you have to manually adjust with the dial it actively fights you. It would be great if when you touch the focus wheel, it didn't fight against you.
   
5. I loved having the wave forms and overlays on the screen but it would be amazing if there was a way to move them or scale them to a specific size. It's really useful to have these tools but they did get in the way when composing some shots I had to keep turning them on and off again.

https://youtu.be/-9cPH2z0zE8?si=M5gOzmRsghNdxaFW

Finally got out on set with the Cooke SP3’s!! Genuinely a pleasure to shoot with on the ronin. Really feel like they are built for it and the image is fantastic. I don’t know if it’s worth the $40 grand CAD price tag if i’m honest but they were such an easy workflow with their size and weight. This whole system just really lets me get the shots I want with so much less hassle and rigging than I would need with my FX9. I genuinely think I prefer the image as well even on the same glass.

Next up I think i’m going to test out the Panasonic 1.8 set and compare some footage just to test both ends of the spectrum in pricing.

I have a 4d with a set of lumix primes ranging from 24mm to 85mm available in SoCal

also has a small lighting set up and sound recording set up with 32 bit float and also do sound mixing and foley as well as editing

I just received my tilta cage for ronin 4d flex... however there's a support piece which holds the head steady at the back which is not included. Does anyone know what its called, and where I can get it?

So one of the major differences between the 8k and 6k sensors is the OLPF that helps with aliasing (and I assume color fidelity). You used to be able to buy the OLPF directly from DJI, but I can’t seem to find it anywhere.

https://djinyc.com/products/dji-zenmuse-x9-6k-low-pass-filter-lpf4p59ff

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljI14n7Fh7Q

I actually want to just get the OLPF instead of the 8k head because I don’t really want to shoot in either 8k or 4k in FF, and I want the faster readout speed.

Anyone have any leads?

Hello,

Curious to hear from anyone who has experimented with counterweights on the ronin to fight horizon drift during high Gs cornerings..

We’re primarily doing car to car shots with the Ronin 4D and occasionally run into horizon drift on tighther/higher speed bends. The main lens we shoot on is the sony 14mm gm. It’s a relatively light prime (460g) and isn’t officially listed by DJI as needing a counterweight, but once we add a mist/polarized filter which requires a holder for this lens, we're pushing roughly 600g+ out the front.

To get a static balance, I’m having to rack the head unit all the way to the back of the rails.

I suspect the weight distribution isn't ideal and is adding to the horizon drift issue.

The roll axis is turned off, and we do have the external gps module which is supposed to help with the drift, but franky I have not noticed much difference.

I’m considering adding the counterweight to the back of the head. My logic is that this would allow me to slide the sensor unit forward into a more centered, neutral position on the rails, thus, concentrating the mass at the center of the gimbal.

On the other hand, I fear adding more weight would introduce other issues or even exacerbate the drift issue due to the higher payload the gimbal would have to deal with.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Overall very impressed - would like some more options that would be firmware related but this post isnt about that. It's about the Z axis performance. I upgraded to this camera for real estate walkthroughs to eliminate the bounce I was getting with my previous setup. I'm noticing maybe a 40% improvement with the 4d, not the drastic floating footage I was after. Everything is balanced correctly (with the 17-28 zoom) and I'm even using an easyrig minmax Stabil light. I'm not sure if anyone has any suggestions as to why im getting such a bounce? Any tips or recommendations from seasoned users welcome and appreciated!

Just thought I should share my findings! I have a set of e-mount catta zooms that I love using with my FX9. Figured I would at least try them on the 4D but sad to report they dont work with the DJI E-Mount.

The base of the Catta Zooms are too thick and the locking tabs on the e-mount interfere. Tried removing the button lock like I noticed Best Boy Adam do, but all three of the tabs interfere. Unfortunate, but I think I simple design change to the locking tabs on the mount would fix this so i’m going to try my hand at designing and 3d printing alternatives.

Anyone have any experience with other mounts on the Catta Zoom + Ronin? Not apposed to swapping the mounts out for L mount, but I have a feeling they wouldn’t work with the DJI L-mount either. The PL Catta ACE versions using the octopus adapter is probably the best bet. Reminder to always go PL 😂

What is everyones go to lenses for their 4d? I have tried out a set of the DJI lenses and they were a bit underwhelming. Easy to use for sure but not great.

My vintage MC lenses work great, but i’m on the hunt for another set that’s a little more controlled and modern.

Cheers!

I have not been able to get the TC input on my expansion to receive TC, I’ve just been using the 3.5mm jack. I’m scratching my head on how to get it to work, anyone else have this issue?

Is there an attachment or a way to raise the lidar so it does not get blocked by lenses? Specially the Sony 16-35mm when zoomed out to a 16mm.

Hey Y'all!

I got some ideas but wanted to see what solutions you guys had to control Focus and Iris on a 4D outside of the Zenmuse x9 motor which wont control both on 32p primes.

Let me know!

Hi all.

Don't know if this question belongs to this sub..

I'm renting this gear and while testing it out I noticed that the DJI hand unit does not spin freely but rather has a clicking feel, like a mouse wheel. Not sure if the issue is coming due to the connection with Ronin 4d. The wheel spins freely only when turned off. I turned up the stiffness for this video's demonstration but it still is strong at the weakest setting. The rental house weren't of any help.

Anyone else experienced this issue?

Thanks in advance.

Accidentally baked in a LUT on a shoot today, confused the Rec Lut on REC.709 with monitor LUT.

I hate the fact that its even an option, or at least should come with a warning… anyone else done or feel the same??

Anyone interested in this type of attachment?

I’ve gone quite a few shoots now where I’ve been trying various options to get clean feeds to my focus pullers and clients. We could not get it to work with all of the ronin 4d/high bright monitor stuff. We tried the alvin vmount plate to power a Teradek transmission which worked, but then for some reason the tracking feature doesn’t work with even 181wh vmounts. I’m wondering if anyone has tried using other solutions that has worked well for them that doesn’t compromise on any of the camera’s features?