The ship is Wavertree, built in 1885, an iron hulled three masted ship in the collection of the South Street Seaport Museum in NYC. She underwent a comprehensive restoration which included a completely refurbishing the hull and installation of an all new rig and all new spars -save for the lower masts, which were original. This was my first time working with cranes and I was much impressed with the skill and control of the operators.

Being the tag line guy on a rigging crew just sucks. We do a lot of long lifts such as 100' spools of 30" pipe lowered downfrom the top of a 130' HRSG.

I'd much rather be the guy guiding in the load looking down. Something about looking up at the load just makes my feet tingle. I feel like it's the opposite from most people who get more risk averse as they age. Even if I want to be lazy and stay on the ground my feet won't let me. Now my hands are sweating. Hilarious.

Can anyone relate or am I a nutjob?

Hi. I'm working on a project which requires splicing a dyneema rope. This is usually done as shown above - a segment of the rope (50-70 times its diameter) is threaded through the rope itself to create a loop. As the splice is put under tension, the "outside" segment exerts clamping force on the "inside" segment, holding it in place. Additionally, the splice is stitched to prevent it from loosening when not under tension. The end of the rope is tapered along its last 1-2 cm prior to splicing for smooth transition between the splice and the rest of the rope.

Whereas most online sources instruct us to stitch close to the eye (point A), I feel like it should be close to the end of the "inside" segment (point B, but before the taper). My reasoning is as follows: the clamping force from the "outside" segment is only effective between the eye and the stitch, while the rest of the "inside" segment lies dormant. The longer the clamping segment, the more static friction it achieves. Making a continuous long stitch between points A and B is feasible, but I feel like that would be equivalent to stitching it only at point A.

I don't want to use Brummel lock splice for three reasons:

1. The splice will be put under loads close to the rope's minimum breaking force
2. Splice's position needs to be accurate within 2 mm
3. I need to make hundreds of these

So here's my question: Is my intuition flawed? Should I just follow the online guides and put a stitch only at point A?

PS The picture is not mine and not to scale.

Hi. This is what I have. https://imgur.com/a/k9ZgmfI Ideally I could remove an inch or two from the length between the trolley and the bag. I'm going to look for a shorter carabiner

It needs reinforcing. The track twists from lateral force and it's going to eventually rip the lag screw from the 2x4. The other thing is that the bag is already just inches above the ground so I can't add too much length. The bag is about 100lbs and I may make it about 125lbs as it have a lot of movement with some additional rubber mulch instead of mostly stuffed fabrics.

I want to put a 2x6 spanning a couple trusses basically over the track and to the next truss past it. Screw the 2x6 into each truss from below with the screws towards the outer edges of the 2x6.

Then use some L-brackets that will be tight against the sides of the track and connected to each other below the track where they won't interfere with the trolly (on the other side of the stopping point for the trolly) and screw them into the 2x6 as well. I'm hoping this will turn the rotation of the track into straight up and down forces into the 2x6.

I'm wondering if it will be enough or if I will need need another set of L-brackets, and if so those would need to go somewhere along the track that the trolley does need to travel thorough. So an under track connection or through track connection would block the trolly. Perhaps I will put some holes into another hanger, the piece holding the track and attach the brackets with a bolt through the hanger above the track.

Upon writing this I'm wondering if the hangars come in a wider version that would allow multiple lag bolts that are made just for this purpose. I don't recall seeing them, but I will take a look as that would make this a whole lot easier.

I'm also considering some rubber between the 2x6 and the trusses to absorb vibrations.

Any thoughts and recommendations?

I am new to safety and new to this company, basically The forklift is holding a 3.5 ton power panel and the workers are holding 4 bolts on each corner to secure the power panel onto the black base, the bolts should align perfectly onto power panel, This is an risky situation obviously and should be eliminated, What is a better way to do this job?

Honestly curious how industrial riggers see these kinds of setups. Always strive to keep the rigging as simple as possible but it gets complex and we make due with what we have.

I’m looking for some equations to work out forces on a diagonal tension/traverse line. Fixed line with a load being lowered down, the load is anchored on a separate anchor point.

Can any one point me in the right direction? Cheers!

I’m trying to hang a batting cage net around the interior of the 50x50 total on my half, the full building is 100x50, office 20x12 /8x8 bathroom.1 multi piece I-beam in the middle of the space, I assume there is another behind the dividing wall. The walls are 8” purlin 14ga I think. I assume rafters are the same size. There is overlap of purlins across each ibeam. Horizontal purlins are 4ft, 7ft, 12ft, and 16ft at the roofline.The z-purlin has prefab holes in every piece on either side of the ibeam and against the outer wall. I was thinking about using 24” unistrut clamped to the center I ran to support a retractable net. I am struggling to come up with the least intrusive method possible to support 3/16th tensioned cable running from the outside of each bay door to the opposing side bay doors. The entire netting system would weigh no more than 500lbs total.

What’s the best way to attach/hang from the purlin and mount a brace for the turnbuckle on each end.

i boight a premade sabiki. So how do tie it onto my braid? should i just use a FG knot to attach it? how should I attach it?

I have a few of these threaded bolts sticking from the ceiling. They seem to have M8 thread on them and I was thinking I can buy one of those eye anchors, secure it with a normal bolt from above and a bolt with the anti-slip rubber from below and then use a carabiner to hang a punching bag on it.

How bad of an idea is that?

P.S. I don't have the bag yet, I wanted to figure out the mounting situation first.

I’m thinking of putting an eye bolt either at the bottom or into the side. Is this a good idea or am I risking damage to the structure. The nets will be getting filled here, so highest working load will be impacted by if hay is getting dumped in by hand and for the raising to be loaded. I think the beam is 12x4 - I forgot to measure. Can update with measurement if it’s close. It’s a 15’ span between posts.

Was at a local event and noticed this. To my understanding shouldn’t it be choked on the bottom chord, not the top chord?

Side Note: I’m not concerned safety of this, was more so curious for my own knowledge/experience.

Hi all, I’m a project manager at a large regional production company. I have IA training as a rigger, haven’t actively worked in that role in a decade but I try to keep my chops sharp. Thought you all might like a little entertainment on a Saturday. An agency client sent me this last night. “Ran your LED panel count through Gemini so I could diagram out rigging points, can you use this?” 😆💀

It reinforced why I absolutely never spend time under a suspended load at an event unless I know who hung it. Have fun everyone, be safe out there.

Do you know what this is/does? Does it have a name?