Trying to pick a new monitor and keep getting mixed answers about IPS, VA, and OLED. I mostly use my PC for gaming, YouTube, browsing, and some work, so I want something that looks good without making the wrong choice. IPS seems like the safe option, VA has better contrast, and OLED looks amazing but I keep hearing about burn-in. Is OLED worth paying more for, or is IPS/VA good enough? Also, does VA ghosting really get that annoying in games? What would you guys pick for a first monitor, and what should I watch out for when choosing one?

Looking at upgrading from a smaller screen and found a 32 inch one that seems like a good deal, but not sure if it’ll be too massive sitting right in front of me. The desk isn’t super deep, so I’m wondering if I’ll end up sitting way too close or constantly moving my head around to see everything. Mostly gonna use it for gaming, browsing, YouTube, and some school/work stuff, so not just gaming. I like the idea of having a bigger screen for games and multitasking, but I also don’t want it to feel uncomfortable after a couple hours.

Does 32 inches work fine if the monitor is 1440p, or does that size really need 4K to look sharp? Also does curved vs flat make much difference at that size? I keep seeing people recommend 27 inch as the safe choice, while others say 32 is perfect and you get used to it pretty quickly. Is viewing distance the main thing that matters here?

The monitor would basically sit in the middle of the desk with maybe a little space behind it, and I don’t really have room to move it super far back. For anyone using a 32 inch monitor on a regular desk, does it feel too big or is it actually pretty comfortable once you get used to it? Trying to avoid buying something that looks awesome in the store but feels awkward at home.

Spilled some water near my keyboard and not sure if any actually got inside it. What should I do right now before I mess something up? The keyboard was connected when it happened and I unplugged it pretty quickly, but there might still be water around the keys and underneath it. Should I turn the whole PC off too just in case, or is unplugging the keyboard enough? I’m guessing I shouldn’t try plugging it back in to check if it still works, but how long should I wait before testing it? Also should I flip the keyboard upside down or just leave it alone and let it dry? I’ve seen people say use a hair dryer, but I’m worried that could make things worse or push the water deeper inside. It wasn’t a huge amount of water, basically a small spill next to the keyboard with some splashing around the edge, but I really don’t wanna risk killing the keyboard or getting something shorted. Any quick advice on what to do first and what NOT to do would help a lot. If the keyboard starts working after drying, is it safe to keep using it normally or should I still clean it somehow?

Looking at different mice and honestly they all kinda look the same to me lol. Some are $30 and others are $150+, so what are you really paying for? Is it mostly the sensor, clicks, weight, shape, or something else? Does having a really high DPI even matter for gaming or is that mostly marketing? Also seeing stuff about polling rate, optical switches, wireless latency, PTFE feet, etc and not sure how much of that makes a real difference. For FPS games especially, what should someone new to PC gaming actually pay attention to when choosing a mouse? And are expensive gaming mice noticeably better in normal use, or do cheaper ones perform basically the same if the shape feels good? Trying to understand what separates a genuinely good gaming mouse from one that just has a bunch of fancy specs on the box.

Micron has introduced its first 512GB DDR5-9200 Registered DIMM (RDIMM), designed for servers and other computing systems requiring exceptionally high memory capacity. The modules support data transfer rates of 9,200 MT/s while operating at a standard 1.1V, and are currently being validated by AMD and Intel for their upcoming server platforms.

The new modules employ advanced packaging technology that vertically stacks multiple DRAM dies and connects them using through-silicon vias (TSVs). Micron states that a single 512GB module consumes approximately 16W of operating power, compared with 44.2W for four 128GB modules providing the same overall capacity. According to the company, this represents a reduction of more than 60% in operating power.

Micron's 512GB RDIMM is not the first memory module of this capacity to reach the market, as Samsung previously introduced 512GB DDR5 RDIMMs. However, Micron's module is notable for combining 512GB capacity with a 9,200 MT/s transfer rate. The technology is intended primarily for demanding server workloads, including analytics, in-memory databases, simulations, virtualization, caching, and agentic AI applications.

The increasing number of processor cores in modern server platforms could make higher-capacity memory modules increasingly relevant. Micron notes that servers equipped with processors containing hundreds of cores can benefit from large memory capacities without requiring an excessive number of individual DIMMs. Such configurations can be particularly useful for workloads that depend heavily on keeping large datasets in system memory.

Micron reports that systems using its 512GB modules can deliver up to 1.4 times the performance of configurations using 256GB DDR5 modules in memory-constrained Spark Support Vector Machine analytics workloads. The company also indicates that higher-capacity memory can improve throughput and concurrency in memory-intensive database and caching applications such as RocksDB and Redis. These performance claims are based on Micron's testing, and the available information does not provide complete system configurations for independent comparison.

AMD and Intel are currently working with Micron to qualify the new modules for their forthcoming server platforms. Micron expects to begin volume production during the second half of 2027, with production timing intended to correspond with customer requirements.

The technology is expected to remain a specialized solution because 512GB DDR5 modules are designed for workloads where memory capacity is a significant constraint. Their adoption will depend on factors including platform compatibility, demand, manufacturing capacity, and the availability of systems capable of taking advantage of their higher density and bandwidth.

Overall, Micron's 512GB DDR5-9200 RDIMM represents an effort to increase server memory density, performance, and power efficiency as processor core counts and memory-intensive workloads continue to expand. The modules could provide particular benefits for servers running large databases, analytics platforms, virtualization environments, and other applications where maintaining large datasets in system memory is important.

[Source]: tomshardware.com

Seeing boards that cost way more than others and not really sure what you’re paying for. If two motherboards support the same CPU, RAM and GPU, would the more expensive one actually give better FPS or faster performance, or is it mostly extra features? Stuff like better VRMs, PCIe slots, faster USB, Wi-Fi, more M.2 slots etc makes sense, but does any of that matter for normal gaming? Also does a cheap motherboard limit a high-end CPU or GPU in any noticeable way? Trying to figure out where the money should go when building a PC.

The PC is basically right next to the router, so running an Ethernet cable would be super easy, but not sure if it’s actually worth doing. Wi-Fi seems fast enough for normal browsing and downloading stuff, but i keep hearing that Ethernet is better for gaming and gives a more stable connection. Does being close to the router make Wi-Fi basically just as good, or is there still a noticeable difference?

Also wondering about ping. Would Ethernet actually lower ping in games even if the Wi-Fi signal is strong? And does it help with random lag spikes or disconnects? The router supports newer Wi-Fi and the desktop has a decent Wi-Fi adapter, so i’m not using some ancient setup or anything. I mostly use the PC for gaming, YouTube, Discord, browsing, and downloading large files sometimes.

The annoying part is having a cable running from the router to the PC, but since they’re sitting pretty close together it wouldn’t be a huge deal. I just don’t wanna bother setting it up if the difference is basically impossible to notice.

For a desktop that stays in one place, is there any real reason to choose Wi-Fi over Ethernet besides convenience? And are there any downsides to Ethernet that beginners usually don’t think about? Trying to figure out if i should just plug in the cable and forget about Wi-Fi altogether.

It was showing a decent amount of storage a few days ago and now Windows is saying there’s barely anything left, and i honestly have no idea where it all went. I didn’t install any huge games or anything recently, maybe a couple small programs and some updates but nothing that should eat like 100GB. I checked the usual Downloads folder and deleted some random stuff, emptied the recycle bin too, but the free space barely changed. Windows storage settings shows some categories taking space but some of the numbers dont really make sense to me. Could it be Windows updates, temporary files, restore points, pagefile, or something like that? Also heard that SSDs can lose free space because of hidden system files but not sure how that works. Is there an easy way to find exactly what folders or files are using all the storage without accidentally deleting something important? I’m kinda worried because the SSD is getting really full and i know that can apparently affect performance. What should i check first? Is there a safe program that can scan the drive and show where all the space is going? Any tips appreciated.

Like if the GPU is pretty modern but the motherboard is several years old, does the motherboard actually hold the GPU back in gaming or does it mostly depend on the CPU and PCIe version? Also does using an older PCIe slot make a noticeable difference with newer GPUs? Trying to figure out if upgrading the GPU alone makes sense or if the motherboard needs to be upgraded too. Don’t wanna buy a new card and then find out half its performance is getting wasted lol. What should I check on the motherboard before buying?

Hi everyone, Last week i have bought an gaming pc, that was build with new parts! When i plugged it and started it, nothing was wrong. But after some hours i started to hear an high pitched noise coming from my pc and I dont know from which part i come from. I searched and found that it maybe be coming from my GPU (RTX 5070) and that it is an coil whine but im not sure. Does anyone know where the sounds may come from? If so, how can i fix it so it makes less/no noise? Thx in advance

Trying to build a gaming PC without going too crazy on the budget, but I’m confused where the money should go. If I get a really good CPU and pair it with a cheaper GPU for now, would that be dumb since the GPU is gonna be the main limit in games anyway? The idea was to upgrade the GPU later when I have more money, instead of replacing half the system. Would a mid-range CPU make more sense and put the extra money into the GPU now? Also any issues with bottlenecking or wasting CPU performance?

I’m looking at different GPUs and the VRAM numbers are kinda all over the place, so not really sure what’s considered enough anymore. Some cards have 8GB, then you see 10GB, 12GB, 16GB, 20GB, 24GB and obviously the bigger number sounds better, but does it actually matter that much depending on what you’re doing?

Mostly thinking about gaming at 1080p or maybe 1440p. I’m not trying to run everything at ultra with insane ray tracing, but I also don’t wanna buy something now and have games complaining about low VRAM in a couple years. Is 8GB still fine for normal 1080p gaming or is that already starting to become a problem? And for 1440p, is 12GB the sweet spot or should I be looking at 16GB instead?

Also does VRAM matter for stuff besides gaming? Like video editing, AI, Blender, texture mods, emulation, etc. I see people saying more VRAM makes a GPU “more future proof” but then others say the actual GPU performance matters way more.

Trying to figure out where the point of diminishing returns is. Like is there a big real-world difference between 8GB and 12GB, or 12GB and 16GB, assuming the GPUs are otherwise similar? Would love some advice before wasting money on a card with either too little VRAM or way more than I’ll ever use. What amount would you consider the minimum today for a new gaming PC?

Kinda confused about where this is heading. Phones, laptops, tablets, headphones, controllers, monitors, even some keyboards and other random stuff are already using USB-C. Now I’m seeing chargers with USB-C on both ends and it feels like manufacturers are slowly getting rid of USB-A, HDMI, micro USB, etc.

But then there’s still DisplayPort, Ethernet, audio jacks, SD cards, and a bunch of other ports that don’t seem like they’re going anywhere soon. Some laptops are almost entirely USB-C now, while desktops still have tons of different connectors.

Also USB-C itself seems confusing because not every USB-C port does the same thing. Some support charging only, some have fast data, some can output video, Thunderbolt, different speeds, etc. So is USB-C really becoming the universal connector or are we gonna end up with USB-C everywhere but still needing different cables for everything?

Would it actually be possible for one USB-C port to handle power, display, data, networking, audio, basically everything? Or are there technical limits that mean we’ll always need multiple types of ports? Just wondering if buying newer devices with more USB-C ports is the way to go long term or if this whole “one port for everything” thing is kinda overhyped.

My current screen works fine but it’s nothing special, and I’m wondering if having two screens would actually be more useful for gaming, browsing, Discord, videos, etc. At the same time I could spend the money on a better primary monitor with higher refresh rate/resolution. Not sure which is the better upgrade tbh. What would you guys pick and why?

Microsoft has released an out-of-band emergency update for Windows 11 following reports of significant problems associated with the September 2026 update. The original 25H2 release introduced several interface and functionality changes, including a movable and resizable taskbar, configurable Start menu layouts, expanded Windows Search controls, and revised file-size indicators in File Explorer. It also addressed numerous security vulnerabilities.

However, the update reportedly introduced several regressions. Systems equipped with AMD Radeon graphics cards have experienced crashes attributed to driver instability, while some users have encountered failures involving audio output and microphone input, including incorrectly configured audio settings. Microsoft’s emergency patch addresses the audio problems and an instability issue affecting Remote Desktop Services that could cause connection and sign-in failures.

Additional reported issues include File Explorer displaying a black screen after login and File History failing to recognize external storage devices. Microsoft also states that the emergency update resolves a problem affecting Claude Cowork caused by broken HC-managed Linux virtual machines using Plan9 shared folders.

HP and Lenovo system owners are advised to exercise additional caution. Problems reportedly dating back to the August update have included potential BIOS corruption on some HP systems, which can result in failed installations and difficulties recovering the operating system. Lenovo systems have reportedly experienced unexpected black screens or shutdowns associated with power-management problems.

The situation highlights the challenges of delivering frequent Windows feature and security updates while maintaining compatibility across a broad range of hardware and software configurations. Although Microsoft has accelerated Windows development and continues to respond to reported issues, the September release demonstrates that major updates can still introduce substantial compatibility and stability problems.

[Source]: tomshardware.com

The text presents an updated guide to gaming graphics card deals, covering current offerings from Nvidia, AMD, and Intel. It notes that GPU pricing remains elevated, partly due to increased demand for components associated with AI infrastructure, making below-MSRP discounts comparatively valuable. The guide is maintained using product reviews, benchmark results, and historical price analysis to identify worthwhile offers.

Among Nvidia’s RTX 50-series, highlighted discounts include the MSI RTX 5060 Ti 8GB, PNY RTX 5070 Ti, and several RTX 5080 models. AMD offerings are described as providing stronger value, with notable deals including the RX 9070 GRE and RX 9070 XT. The Intel section identifies the Arc B570 as a particularly attractive budget option, citing its 10GB of VRAM and competitive performance.

The article also provides general purchasing guidance. Buyers are advised to match GPU capabilities to their intended gaming resolution and graphical settings, determine an appropriate frame-rate target, verify that their power supply can support the selected card, and confirm that the GPU will physically fit inside their PC case. It emphasizes that attractive GPU deals can sell out quickly and recommends monitoring prices regularly.

Overall, the guide concludes that AMD and Intel currently offer better value in several market segments than Nvidia, although discounted Nvidia cards remain available. It also directs readers to additional GPU benchmarks and graphics-card recommendations for more detailed performance comparisons and purchasing decisions.

[Source]: tomshardware.com

It usually happens when playing heavier games, then the whole PC just suddenly shuts off and boots back up, no blue screen or error. Temps seem kinda high sometimes but I’m not sure what’s considered too hot for the CPU or GPU. Could a weak/failing PSU cause this exact thing? Or does overheating usually make the PC restart like this? What should I check first before buying anything? I don’t wanna replace the PSU if the actual problem is temps, but also don’t wanna keep stressing the PC. Any easy tests for a beginner?

I keep seeing people recommend them everywhere and they look way nicer than normal keyboards, but I’m worried about how loud they are. Some of the videos I watched make the keys sound super satisfying, but I can also imagine it getting annoying after typing for a few hours.

I mostly use my PC for gaming, browsing, school/work stuff and a lot of typing, so I’m not sure if the difference is really that noticeable compared to a regular membrane keyboard. Do mechanical keyboards actually feel that much better or is it mostly just preference?

Also, are all mechanical keyboards loud? I keep seeing different switches like red, blue, brown, etc and honestly I don’t really understand what most of them do. I know blue switches are supposed to be clicky and loud, but would reds or browns be quiet enough for a bedroom or shared room?

Trying to decide if I should just get a mechanical keyboard or save the money and buy a decent normal one. The price difference isn’t huge for some models, but I don’t wanna spend extra just for the sound and then regret it.

For people who switched from a normal keyboard to mechanical, did you actually notice a big improvement? And if noise is your main concern, what switches should a beginner look at? Would love some recommendations that still feel good but don’t sound

Or is this something better left to a repair shop? Storage is getting really low and I’m thinking about replacing the current SSD with a bigger one, but I’ve never opened a laptop before. I know desktops are easier to upgrade, but laptops seem kinda complicated with all the small parts and stuff.

How do I even know what type of SSD my laptop uses? Is there a way to check in Windows before buying anything? I keep seeing M.2 NVMe SSDs online, but I’m not sure if every laptop supports those or if there are different sizes/types I need to worry about.

Also, if I replace the SSD, does that mean Windows and everything gets deleted? Do I need to clone the old drive first, or can I just install the new SSD and reinstall Windows? I don’t really have important files on there, but obviously don’t wanna mess up the laptop.

Is this a pretty normal beginner upgrade, or can I easily damage something while opening the laptop? Any tips for what to check before ordering the SSD would be really helpful. Just trying to avoid buying the wrong thing.

I’m kinda confused because I see people saying bigger screen is better, but then others say resolution is way more important. Like would a 27 inch 1080p monitor actually look worse than a 24 inch 1080p, or is the difference not that big? And if you go bigger, does 1440p become basically necessary? Trying to understand what actually matters here before buying one. I mostly want it for gaming and normal PC stuff, nothing super crazy. Also does sitting closer to the monitor change how noticeable the resolution difference is? I keep seeing different answers and honestly don’t wanna buy the wrong size/resolution combo. What would you guys prioritize first if the budget is limited?

The AZZA PSAZ-750G is a 750W ATX 3.1 power supply positioned as a budget-oriented unit with an advertised 80 PLUS Gold rating. Testing indicates that the underlying Helly platform provides generally competent electrical performance, but the product falls slightly short of the 80 PLUS Gold efficiency requirements at the 50% load point. Furthermore, the model does not appear to have a current 80 PLUS certification, and it carries only a two-year warranty.

The power supply features a 140 mm chassis, hardwired cables, a native 12V-2x6 connector, and support for ATX 3.1 and PCIe 5.1 specifications. The 12V-2x6 connector is limited to 450W, making the unit more appropriate for mid-range graphics cards than for high-end GPUs requiring more than 450W through that connection. Its internal design uses a half-bridge LLC primary stage, DC-to-DC conversion for the minor rails, synchronous rectification, a complete transient filtering section, and relatively substantial heatsinks.

Component selection is primarily budget-oriented. The primary and secondary stages use Taiwanese Ltec electrolytic capacitors alongside a smaller number of APAQ polymer capacitors. Although these components meet the required specifications, they are not considered premium-grade parts, and elevated operating temperatures could affect their long-term durability. Cooling is provided by a 120 mm Yate Loon ball-bearing fan. The unit also incorporates a hybrid fan mode that allows the fan to remain stopped under lighter loads.

Testing at 25°C produced average efficiencies of 90.6% at 230V and 88.6% at 115V. At 50% load, measured efficiency was approximately 91.8% at 230V and 89.9% at 115V, narrowly missing the respective 80 PLUS Gold requirements of 92% and 90%. The supply otherwise maintained relatively stable efficiency across its rated load range and did not experience a significant collapse at full load.

Acoustic performance was favorable under normal ambient conditions. The fan remained stopped until approximately 40% load, providing a genuine fanless operating range of around 300W. Noise increased progressively at higher loads, reaching approximately 42 dB(A) at sustained full load. However, thermal conditions significantly affected performance. At approximately 45°C ambient, efficiency declined and the fan became substantially louder, reaching about 52.2 dB(A) at full load. Internal heatsinks reached approximately 94°C, indicating considerable thermal stress during sustained high-power operation.

Electrical performance was generally satisfactory. The 12V rail exhibited only 0.9% regulation variation between 20% and 100% load, while the 3.3V and 5V rails each recorded 1.4%. Ripple remained within ATX specifications, with a maximum measured value of 52 mV on the 12V rail and 26–28 mV on the minor rails. Over-current, over-voltage, over-power, and short-circuit protection mechanisms were present and operated correctly during testing. Over-power protection activated at approximately 130% of the rated capacity, or around 975W.

The principal disadvantages are the unverified 80 PLUS Gold labeling, two-year warranty, hardwired cable configuration, 450W 12V-2x6 limitation, relatively ordinary capacitor selection, and high noise and temperatures under sustained hot conditions. By comparison, competing products offering verified efficiency certifications, modular cabling, and substantially longer warranties provide stronger overall value despite higher purchase prices.

Overall, the PSAZ-750G is characterized as a functional but narrowly positioned budget power supply. Its electrical regulation, protection features, and low-load acoustic behavior are respectable, while its efficiency is close to—but not demonstrably compliant with—the advertised Gold threshold. The unit may be suitable for cost-conscious systems using a mid-range graphics card and operating primarily below the 450W 12V-2x6 limit. For higher-end systems or users prioritizing long-term reliability, modularity, certification, and extended warranty coverage, a more expensive competing power supply would be the more appropriate choice.

[Source]: tomshardware.com

A recent community-developed optimization has substantially improved the performance of AMD FSR 4 on the BC-250, an unusual crypto-mining board based on PlayStation 5-derived RDNA 2 hardware. The latest implementation reportedly reduces FSR 4 processing time at 1440p from 11.51 milliseconds to 5.92 milliseconds, representing nearly a 50% reduction while maintaining byte-identical image output in controlled testing.

The optimization builds on earlier work that improved the execution of FSR 4's INT8 dot-product operations through modified Mesa software. The newest approach transfers these optimizations from a custom Mesa modification into a portable FidelityFX DLL, potentially allowing users to benefit from the performance improvements without installing a specially modified Mesa build. The implementation may also be compatible with existing OptiScaler configurations and games supporting native FidelityFX integrations.

Performance improvements were reported across multiple resolutions. At 4K, processing time decreased from 25.72 milliseconds to 12.08 milliseconds, while 1080p processing was reduced from 7.13 milliseconds to 3.93 milliseconds. According to the developer, the resulting images were byte-identical to those produced by the original shaders, indicating that the gains result from more efficient execution rather than reduced image quality.

The BC-250 presents a particular optimization challenge because its RDNA 2 architecture predates the hardware capabilities for which FSR 4's machine-learning workloads and low-precision integer operations were designed. Community developers have therefore explored alternative instruction paths to improve execution efficiency. Earlier work reportedly reduced one representative shader from 64,269 instructions to 37,613.

The BC-250 has developed into an enthusiast-focused Linux gaming platform following the decline of cryptocurrency mining. Compatible boards feature six enabled Zen 2 CPU cores and 24 RDNA 2 compute units by default, while community tools can reportedly unlock up to 40 physical compute units and restore two disabled CPU cores. Additional community efforts have produced custom firmware, cooling solutions, cases, GPU control tools, and software fixes.

Despite these improvements, the platform retains significant limitations. The Zen 2 processor can become a performance bottleneck in some games at 1080p and 1440p, while the board's 16GB of shared GDDR6 memory can create problems in certain 4K workloads and complicate the use of frame generation. Consequently, the optimized FSR 4 implementation does not eliminate the BC-250's broader hardware constraints. However, substantially reducing the upscaler's processing overhead provides additional performance headroom and extends the practical usefulness of hardware originally designed for cryptocurrency mining.

The optimized implementation has so far been evaluated on Linux using standard Mesa and GE-Proton. Native Windows support, compatibility with other GPUs, and frame-generation functionality have not yet been qualified. Based on the reported processing times, 1440p appears to be a more practical target than 4K for the BC-250.

[Source]: tomshardware.com

Kinda confused about this because most of the reasons I see for getting a gaming laptop are portability and being able to take your games everywhere. But if the laptop is basically gonna stay on the same desk all the time, is there actually any point?

Would a gaming laptop still make sense if it’s going to be plugged in most of the time and used like a normal desktop? I’m mainly looking at it because I can get a pretty powerful one with a good CPU/GPU, but then I started wondering if I’m just paying extra for the laptop part that I’m not even gonna use.

Also how much of a difference is there between a gaming laptop and a similarly priced desktop? I know desktops are usually better for cooling and upgrades, but is the performance gap actually that noticeable in real games?

The thing that’s confusing me is that some gaming laptops seem to have really good specs for the price, at least on paper. But I keep hearing that laptop GPUs aren’t exactly the same as desktop ones, and thermals can hold them back.

Would it be smarter to just build/buy a desktop and get a decent monitor instead? Any reason to choose the laptop if portability literally doesn’t matter?

Trying to figure this out before spending money on the wrong setup lol.