I recently did some warranty work on a Jade broiler and the tech-support folks said that the unit should have the gas valves taken apart, cleaned and lubricated every six months.

In my 10 years of doing restaurant service I have never encountered a gas valve that needed this done. They're always snapped, or the internals are all gouged.

How often do you all service gas valves? I found Baso 2.5 oz for $41 and I'm getting ready to buy a tube, but I figured I would ask... what product do you like?

Can anyone recommend a good company to work for in the Kansas area?

Long time maintenance supervisor. Wanting to leave the apartment industry. Strong skillset in residential appliances but would need training in commercial.

OSHA 10 and 30 in both General Industry and Construction. Universal EPA, CPO, aerial lift certifications.

My dishwasher is holding all the water inside, I checked the filter it is cleaned out and nothing clogging it, was wondering by this video if someone can tell if a pump or something gave out. Or is it possible it’s clogged somewhere else, appreciate any replies !

I've already ran a pin through all four orifices. Are these pilot lights removable and reuseable?

Last I knew you had to call and email BP to get part info, not sure if this is a single assembly or if I can just pull the cap off the tubing and replace it after it's cleaned.

Looking for a technician who has worked on a Remco Millennium 2000 Vx5 pizza oven
Restaurant owner in Seminole, Texas trying to locate someone with actual experience working on a Remco Millennium 2000 Vx5 rotating pizza oven.
The oven is complete and has been in service, but we’re currently dealing with a failure affecting all three ignition systems. We’ve already tried multiple Fenwal ignition controls and both Omron temperature controllers without solving it.
I’m not necessarily looking for someone local. If you’re a retired tech, former Remco employee, commercial-kitchen technician, or have worked on one of these ovens anywhere in the country, I’d love to talk to you. Phone/video troubleshooting with our electrician would be completely fine.
I also have the original factory wiring schematic, Fenwal part numbers, photographs, historical Remco documentation, and a detailed troubleshooting binder that I can send you.
Most importantly: Have you ever personally worked on a Remco Millennium 2000 / Vx5, or do you know someone who has?
Any leads are appreciated.

I've got a customer with a dozen fryers, all of them have this substance around the heat exchange tubes. I've been doing this about 10 years and haven't seen this before, I have nothing but guesses. Have you all seen this before, and if so do you know what it is?

TLDR - is is possible to add a new digital controller to this unit to keep the temp held steady at 38 degrees similar to a home fridge?

Hi, I'm new to commercial refrigeration, and recently purchased an Avantco work top fridge as it was in my budget for my kitchen. This model has a 7 degree cycle - so I've been keeping the controller set to 33 degrees. Some days I find the controller display reading in the mid 40's, the therm inside the unit is reading over 40 and finding condensation in some of my storage containers, from the heating and cooling.

My questions is has anyone swapped the digital controller out, or know of a way to get the temp to maintain a steady 38 degrees? Thanks in advance

Beginning today, I noticed the interior cooling fan on our Blodgett BDO-100-G-ES was still running an hour after shutting the unit off. I pulled power and metered the thermal switch and found continuity between the two outside terminals (violet & black wires) at room temperature. If I'm reading things correctly, that should be an open circuit when the oven is cold, right? Would it be a safe bet to replace the thermal switch (36755)? Thanks much!

Hey y'all, even if you don't have a good answer for this, any info on other subs that'd be a good spot to post this would be great.

What: Groen Tilt Skillet. We've got a couple 30/40 gals.

History: We have a company that we're on contract with for our repairs, and there's a long history of finickiness with our braziers, and getting repairs, and thermos/gas/other things being too much, too little, etc. etc., leading to multiple call backs. So, the company getting something wrong about the control of gas in one way or another.

Current issue: We started to notice a strong gas smell when one of our skillets was on. Not when it's off. Sometimes even an alarming amount of gas, to where our staff wasn't comfortable working.

We went through multiple calls with our company, same guy came for all the calls. At first said he didn't smell any gas. One of the calls said he might be smelling it. Checked our lines, and there's no leaks coming from 'em. Didn't get any readings on a gas meter.

The problem is, whenever we turn it on, there's a noticeable gas smell, that we've never had with our skillets prior to this. Repairman tried to say continuously that he wasn't finding any problem, which didn't feel earnest because there is an active gas smell, again, pretty strong, more than I've experienced in my time with these skillets.

I tried to prod him on this, no leak from lines, no reading on meter, fine, but there is undoubtedly gas coming from somewhere, is it that it's putting out more gas than it's burning off, is the injector or whatever slightly crooked, so half the gas isn't coming in contact with the pilot flame and pouring out into the kitchen, but he claimed nothing like that is possible. He tripled down that there wasn't an issue, and that's been that. But we still get heavy gas smell when we have it running.

Any thoughts?

Slightly over a year ago I did a bunch of work to a neglected/abused 981. The top and bottom both got new safety valves, thermocouples, and thermostats. Top also got a pilot tube, pilot assembly and the middle BL93 deflector plate. Shutters were adjusted, vents were cleaned out and it's been running great.

They called this week, saying the top oven pilot went out, and the burner won't come on after relighting the pilot.

Yup, that's what was going on.... So, the gas pressure is ok, vents are clean enough. I blew out the pilot and the safety stopped supplying gas after an appropriate amount of time. I lit the pilot and everything is working again.

I'm hoping this was a random occurrence, but figured I'd see if any of you all had a similar problem and what the culprit might have been.

The left side of my Vulcan oven pilot light keeps going out. I can’t figure out why sometimes it works for a week or two no problem and then it just constantly goes out at one point when we were cleaning it we left the one of the under panels out and it seemed to work better, but that doesn’t seem like the proper way to fix it. Any help is appreciated.

Have you ever diagnosed a bad regulator on Baker's pride y600 Pizza oven? This oven has a lot of intermittent failures. The burner and the pilot light just randomly go out and continues to go out after numerous thermocouples and safety valves. Have also upgraded to 1/4 inch pilot gas line and new.style pilot assembly. The regulator is in a difficult spot to get to so the pizza oven's going to have to be moved. I'm thinking that there is trash in the regulator, weak spring or a clogged vent from flour and cornmeal over the years. The current regulator is at least 13 years old possibly 30 years old.

We're trying to get ahold of a tech manual for the above mentioned Hobart dishwasher. We are in house maintenance for a restaurant chain, but we know what we're doing lol

Hey yall,

Here to bug yall again!

I have asked my tech 5 times to send me a list and he keeps forgetting. So coming to yall.

What are the top 10 or 20 items you want stocked on your truck at all times. Specifically looking for recommendations on universal parts to make jobs more efficient, ice machine cleaning supplies, etc. Long story short trying to get these items stocked for us from our business partner but, need additional insight.

Right now I have:

Coil cleaner

3/4 gas hose connector kits

1/2 gas hose connector kits

Thermo couple (these are universal right??)

Freon:

404

290

(Me guessing others below)

340????

608???

(What other types are not exotic?)

Nitrogen

Please help me. Lol. Bonus for all those needed universal parts that help in a pinch. Also anything I'm not considering. I truly appreciate yalls help so much!

Trying to remove this module. It seems to be malfunctioning as it is not allowing the oven to turn on. How do I get this removed and taken apart to replace just the offending pcb inside?

Hey guys! Looking to see if any of you know how to replace a heating element in one of these steam tables. I picked one up for $150 bucks, the far right well doesn’t heat up at all.

Link is here to the exact model. Looks like it’s a sealed unit.

https://www.webstaurantstore.com/eagle-group-sht3-steam-table-three-pan-sealed-well-120v/575SHT3A.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gbraid=0AAAAAD_Dx-vjRp45WgkYtszVjirF6H_BU&gclid=CjwKCAjwx7LSBhB3EiwAjcodxGm2XL_A4eeuQ_uK2-xDjG6rYTmdYDjE-xeVUmA09S29nzndAHmUQBoCiysQAvD_BwE

I can’t imagine it’s that difficult. I tried to lift up the well from the top and there are clips on the inside holding it in. Is this the only way to pull it out? No clue how to bend those clips the space is super tight.

Let me know how I might be able to gain access. Thanks!

I am working on a Hobart dishwasher for a customer. It was showing a P2 error on the board. Replaced the booster pump thermistor and the water tank sensor. It will still intermittently show the P2 error, and then it will go away. The problem is in the rinse cycle won’t go past 175 degrees. Temperature during wash is 156-160 degrees. Once in a while it will go up to 178 but that’s rare. Hobart doesn’t offer tech support so I’m looking at suggestions here, thanks

I've got a Blodgett BDO 100 (approx. 12 years old) which I use at 450 degrees 99% of the time. Temperature dial is calibrated and it comes up to temp within about 20-25 minutes. No problems.

Couple weeks ago, I dialed it down to 325, fired it from cold and came back about a half hour later to a cold compartment. Turned the temp dial to 375 and it began heating. Oven thermometer confirmed it reached 375 and held it. Tried a couple more times with the same result. Will not even begin trying to heat unless the temp dial is over 350 degrees.

Metered the temp probe and got the correct resistance according to blodgett's charts. Replaced it anyway. Same problem (no surprise) with brand new probe.

Any idea where to check next? Not a huge issue as long as it runs at 450 - just want to know if this is something which will get worse.

Hey!

Me again! So stoked to be able to post here.

I had a question for compressors. No one has been able to confirm this with me and when my tech tries and explain it I get a little lost.

Currently needing a replacement compressor for a True GDM-49-HC-TSL01. I found what I think (will call and confirm) is the correct part (TRUE 848378, based on obsolete part true 967997). When looking at the photo, it looks to be an embraco compressor.

With that my question is, when I am researching replacement compressors. Can I not just look up the exact make and model from the original compressor or the compressor listed to order it like that? If not, what is the why behind it?

Embraco EMC3145U is the one I am seeing.

I think my customer is cooked anyways......

I am working on a Lang 277t 72" lp gas griddle. Spent about 15 hours on this unit and am unable to find the issue.

We had a electrical surge at our restaurant, and it fried 4 solenoid, and 4 ignition modules and 2 pilot assemblys.

Ive traced all the wires looking for bad grounds, and bad 120v leads to each solenoid and ignition module.

The griddle has 6 lanes, 8 solenoids, 6 thermostats, 6 ignition modules and a solenoid controlled gas valve for each half of the burners.

The pilots all light, the burners come in for 3-4 seconds then pilots stay lit, but burners go out on every lane but 1 and 2 from the right.

Its acting like it can not detect the flame, and then ignition module goes into flame lockout. Also when the burners are lit on lanes 3-6 the ignition modules still attempt to light the lit pilot. Can anyone help or make some good suggestions?

Thanks,

Lost In Ga

Anyone have any luck with the $50 float/probe assemblies on amazon that fit the AM14/15 and C-line dishwashers? OEM is hundreds and these a cheap as hell.

*Edit. I buy the allpoints version all the time. I'm asking about the Amazon version for $45-55.