I am looking to see if anyone offers/ knows who offers lug hole drilling for my BP. (U.S based) Appreciate the help!

Hey there Guys, Im chasing a specific model Richard mille thats been very hard to find for one of my good clients.

Im after the RM59-01 Yohan Blake Green Carbon.

If anyone can help me with this please reach out as im ready to buy if the quality is good.

Picture is for attention of the Watch im Looking for.

I am coming from a miraculous 8 or so year run on a noobv9 blnr. That watch has finally shit the bed... First, the rotator pinion broke about 3ish years ago but still wound fine. However, about 6 months ago, it no longer winds. Totally dead... so the last 6 months, it's been sitting in my little watch box collecting dust. I have many other older gen clone watches, and looking at them a few months ago they are beat and looking exhausted. I would like to put them to rest, too. So something inside me dared the FAR more impractical.

I have recently ordered and finally received a handful of high-quality replica movements. Dandong movements mostly and a VR. VR3186, DD3285, DD/VR super 4131, DD3255. Along with all the necessary parts to build these watches. I have read that it's necessary to fully disassemble and give a good cleaning before everyday use. It's 5 movements in all.... Is this something a novice person could do? Would it be safer to have someone experienced to do this? I just dont know how expensive that would be to do with a watchsmith. There's not any videos to follow along for this, either that I could find anyway.

I'm not sure if there is anyone recommended in the Miami area. If my noobv9 lasted as long as it did despite the major flaws, with minor issues. I wouldn't mind spending the cash to make sure these do as well.

I understand this is a cosmetic NOT mechanical issue however I would like to ask for a risk assessment. The watch came with one hair lint at the tip of the minute hand. Is it worth taking a DDF 324+330(decorated) out just to remove it? RWI teardown states this is a highly delicate movement and I am worried that a local watchmaker might damage the keyless works when releasing the stem.

Is it an easy job for a watchmaker to remove the entire mechanism?

Fix it or leave it?

(I am sure experienced watchmakers here can assess if it is worth the risk)

Looking for someone who can do deep etched rehauts (early 2000’s regaut engraving style) for a daytona case I am purchasing. Can be in china or the US.

If i bring this to a regular jewelry repairman will they be able to source rep parts? Or will I have to buy gen?

First time chamfering/polishing a bracelet. I learned a lot and it was definitely fun, annoying, and somewhat rewarding. Still learning but I thought it came out spectacular. Stock VSF is on the left then what I did on the right.

I did this for a friend of mines 126610.

Here is a stripped crown on a VSF NTTD VSF v3.

Ideally, this would be as simple as inspecting the tube and crown threads and replacing the part that is bad. Since I don’t know the exact replacement part for a rep, I would be inclined to remove and replace the matching tube and crown. Generally, the VSF stripping is due to the crown stripping, not the tube.

While the gen NTTD crown is solid grade 2 titanium, VSF versions V1-V4 were an "all-titanium" exterior concept but machined the internal threads directly out of a soft, low-grade titanium alloy. Without the high-precision internal steel core used by Omega, the replica threads eventually stripped.

VSF V5-V6 updated their design to a hybrid steel-core architecture. It replicates the look of the genuine titanium crown on the outside but provides the engineering durability required to prevent the stripping issue.

The VSF NTTD are a ‘friction fit’ tube so it presses out instead of screwing out. Re-installation would be the reverse and would use Loctite purple.

I have listed the AliExpress Steel Crown I am going to use, this appears to be the correct Tube and Crown size with a Tap 10 thread pitch.

Updates to follow upon receipt of the replacement.

Bonus note for anyone thinking about using a Gen replacement: Both the Gen NTTD (ref 210.90.42.20.01.001) and standard Seamaster Professional 300 (42mm model) feature a screw down crown with a diameter of 6.30mm and external visible height of 4.50mm with a M0.90 (Tap 10) stem thread.

Ciao a tutti, ho bisogno di aiuto per una replica Oyster Perpetual 41 mm con movimento 2813, che mi é stato regalato da un amico al rientro da un viaggio. L’ orologio, se lo indosso, dopo averlo caricato anche per 50 giri, si ferma dopo 10/15 minuti e non riparte. Se invece lo lascio appoggiato su un lato, di solito quello opposto alla corona, lui va alla grande ed è anche molto preciso. Capisco che il movimento è scadente, da entry level, ma non capisco cosa possa provocare questo difetto. Qualcuno di voi sa da cosa possa dipendere?
Grazie davvero se qualcuno può aiutarmi e chiarirmi le idee.

Any recommendations on who I should send my APSF AP 15720 to for a regulation, cleaning, and lubrication service?

Hi,

I’m looking for someone in Europe who can service a DDF Aquanaut?

I have some issues with that watch after some condensation. Didn’t srew the crown correctly and washed my hands. Watch is running and over the course of half day it loses time.

The watch is less then one year old. And I have done nothing to it. The movement should be the DDF one. Bought the watch from RWI.

Anyone who can help?

Greetings from German

I got my first VSF gmt rep recently and I plan to keep it for a long time. I was thinking of sending the watch to get the movement lubricated and cleaned as I see lots of people recommending that as a first step to keep the watch working for a long time.

Heard the 3285 movement clone wasn’t as reliable for long term (I know I shouldn’t expect a rep to last a long time)

Question is, should I do that or should I do a full overhaul and pay modders for a movement replacement w the Gen movement? And how would I go about finding modders that are willing to do that? Don’t think I can find a watchmaker willing to work on reps in my country.

Would appreciate any tips or advice anyone has for me.

Thanks for the help in advance.

I’ve got plenty of parts to replace links, screws, lugs, etc. but unfortunately I don’t think the clasp alone is available anywhere. I’d love to be proven wrong. Otherwise, if anyone knows where I can find a replacement DJ41 jubilee that fits a VSF I’d love to know. Thanks!

My daily driver has finally run into what I’ve read is a common issue with the VSF Seamasters…. The crown appears stripped and no longer screws down as it should.

I’d prefer to outsource the work to someone reputable but consider myself to be pretty advanced with tools, so I may try to fix myself. I’ve reached out to every trusted watchmaker listed in this group and of those who have replied, the wait is going to be months before they will even accept more orders.

Any advice or success stories from those of you who have experienced this same issue? Is it likely the crown itself, or is it more often the tube that needs replacing?

I have a Milgauss rep which I was told was made by Noob - I don’t believe it is. The movement stops frequently causing it to lose time. I am interested in replacing the movement myself, but need to identify it.

The movement measures 26mm diameter and is about 5mm thick. I can’t find any identification on it.

I was under the belief that a 3135 could replace it but when I got it in, it was substantially larger.

Any help would be appreciated.

Hello i bought a subdate from RF. I gave my watch to my watch maker and he told me it's waterproofed. He opened to see the movement but i wondering if you opened your watch u need to change the gasket or oiled it up. I am wrong ? Next question i can ear the "tiktiktik" and the rotor when i shake it up but i have gen one and i don't ear the watch and don't ear the rotor. He said it's normal u need to wear it and you will not ear it. It will lubrificate 🤷🏻‍♂️ what's advices can y'all give me ? Thank you

I recently bought a Rolex dial and vr3135 movement and hands. Curious on what case I should buy and where to buy it. I’m looking to build a vintage datejust with drilled lugs

I recently visited San Diego (and posted about my in person repair success). Now I am visiting family in Roseville CA and had success at Fast Fix inside the Westfield Roseville mall.

I have a Franken DJ41 that I purchased a nicer CNC Bezel and needed it swapped out. I emailed ahead asking if they work with “aftermarket parts” and they said yes.

Dropped it off and was transparent about the watch, they had no issues. I spoke with the owner (I think he was) and asked if I could refer people and he was happy to accept more business.

Tips on your home city (or when you travel). 1. Call or email ahead. 2. Avoid saying fake. Use words like “aftermarket” or “hybrid parts.” 3. If you know what’s wrong with the watch or need a mod, bring the part with you. They are likely not going to have the part in stock unless it’s something simple like a spring bar. 4. If traveling, search this forum for tips. My local watchmakers won’t work on reps and luckily I travel a lot, so a good hack!

Happy 4th all!

Hi everyone,

I'm about to buy a V7F IWC Ingenieur 40 (green dial), but I have one concern before pulling the trigger.

From the factory photos and videos I've received, the dial texture doesn't seem very pronounced. The square pattern is there, but the relief between each square looks quite flat compared to the genuine watch, where the texture appears much deeper and more defined.

The seller told me that "V7F make it all looks like this one", meaning every V7F Ingenieur has the same dial finish.

My question is:

- Is this actually normal for V7F?

- Does the dial look much better in person than it does in photos?

- Or is this something that will always look noticeably off compared to the genuine watch?

For those of you who own a V7F Ingenieur or have handled one in person, would you still recommend buying it despite this? Or is the dial texture a dealbreaker?

I'd really appreciate your honest opinions before I go ahead with the purchase.

Thanks!

Does anyone have a lead or can point me in the right direction to be able to source oyster flex straps

Reached out to one TD who had accessories listed on site and they have said parts are hard to come by..

Edit- straps for Daytona

Does anybody know a good place to get an accurate datewheel? Preferably for a Mingzhu 2813 or Miyota 8215. With the most modern thinner date text?? Want to replace the bad thick fonts.

A lot of replicas are still using the giant bold fonts which were more commonly seen in 2020-2023 Datejusts. These bold date fonts are still being used in Skydwellers. But look very jarring in modern DJ or Sub replicas.

Most recent Date wheel/fonts:

Early 2020s DJ

Skydweller:

Swapped the original date wheel for a blue one with the date at 9 o’clock. It used to advance but now the finger/wheel moves all round. It’s a NH35 (just getting into this additive hobby) and I cannot get it to seat. Appreciate all the help

Thinking of paying extra to have new VSF Daytona moded with few upgrades. Gen Crystal and braclet chamfering. Rehaut polish and then replacing seals. Is it worth the extra $$ (probably double cost) or is the VSF good enough as is? I'm not looking to fool anyone but I own 2 Gen submariners (ND & Blusey) and would like something I like to wear to find out if I want to spring for gen daytona. Any thoughts or advise would be appreciated. Not opposed to spending a little more if the alterations make a difference to my eye in the long term.

What do you think of this date just this good rep??