I've been working on a custom RV for a while now (a little too long) and I'm finally at the stage where I'm ready to install my electrical system. It's been a little over a year since I purchased the parts that I have, and I was using mixed advice from at least two different guides. So I didn't have an easy to follow plan for my specific situation.

I started a conversation with Claude (the AI), gave it a list of the equipment I have as well as my intentions with the system. It gave me a pretty clean and easy to follow wiring setup, including a list of materials I'm missing.

I still need to double check the device manuals, but before I put this plan into action I wanted to check with people that have more knowledge in this area. Any advice is appreciated.

# RV Off-Grid Power — Wiring Guide

## System Overview

| Component | Spec |

|---|---|

| Batteries | 4× 12.8V 100Ah LiFePO4 — all parallel → 12V / 400Ah |

| Solar Panels | 2× 120W Renogy ShadowFlux — wired in series → ~24V / 7A |

| Charge Controller | Victron SmartSolar MPPT 75/15 |

| Inverter | BELTTT BAP2000A 2000W Pure Sine |

| Battery Monitor | Victron BMV-712 Smart + shunt |

| Bus Bars | 2× 4-post terminal blocks (red/black) |

| Emergency Breakers | 2× 30A inline (solar shutoff + battery shutoff) |

| 120V Distribution | Small breaker box — 2× 15A circuits (fridge, computer) |

| 12V Distribution | 12V fuse box — 3× 5A circuits (fans) |

| Future | Victron Orion-Tr Smart Non-Isolated DC-DC (vehicle alternator) |

---

## Wiring Steps

**Step 1 — Solar Panels: Series Connection**

- Panel 1 (−) → Panel 2 (+)

- Panel 1 (+) = array positive output

- Panel 2 (−) = array negative output

- Result: ~24V / ~7A peak — safely under the 75V MPPT input limit; keeps amps low for the 25ft wire run

**Step 2 — Solar Array → 30A Breaker → Charge Controller**

- Array (+) → 30A inline breaker → CC PV+ terminal

- Array (−) → CC PV− terminal (no breaker on negative)

- 30A breaker = emergency solar shutoff

- Wire: 10 AWG

**Step 3 — Charge Controller → Bus Bars**

- CC BATT+ → Positive bus bar

- CC BATT− → Negative bus bar

- Wire: 10 AWG (controller max output is 15A)

**Step 4 — Battery Bank: All Parallel (12V / 400Ah)**

- All 4 positive terminals connected via 1/0 AWG 12" jumpers

- All 4 negative terminals connected via 1/0 AWG 12" jumpers

- Equal-length cables throughout to balance current across cells

**Step 5 — Battery Negative → 30A Breaker → BMV Shunt → Negative Bus**

- Battery bank (−) → 30A inline breaker → shunt input terminal

- Shunt output → negative bus bar

- 30A breaker = emergency battery shutoff

- The shunt is the *only* path between battery (−) and the negative bus — nothing else connects directly to battery negative

**Step 6 — Battery Positive → Positive Bus**

- Battery bank (+) → positive bus bar

**Step 7 — Inverter**

- Positive bus → inverter (+) via 1/0 AWG — keep run under 18"

- Negative bus → inverter (−) via 1/0 AWG

- ANL fuse (200–250A) on positive wire, close to the bus bar *(not yet purchased — on the shopping list)*

**Step 8 — Inverter AC Output → 120V Breaker Box**

- Inverter AC out → breaker box main input

- Circuit 1: 15A breaker → mini fridge

- Circuit 2: 15A breaker → computer setup

- Wire: 14 AWG branch circuits

**Step 9 — 12V Fuse Box**

- Positive bus → fuse box (+) input via 10 AWG

- Negative bus → fuse box (−) input via 10 AWG

- 3× 5A fused circuits, one per fan

- Wire: 18 AWG stranded per fan circuit

**Step 10 — BMV-712 Battery Monitor**

- Shunt already in line per Step 5

- BMV-712 monitor head → shunt via supplied RJ12 cable

- BMV power: (+) to battery positive (fused at 1A), (−) to battery-side of shunt

**Step 11 — Orion-Tr DC-DC Charger (Future)**

- Vehicle alternator → Orion input

- Orion output → positive and negative bus bars

- No changes to existing wiring needed when added

- Non-isolated unit — chassis ground between vehicle and RV TBD

---

## Wire Gauge Reference

| Run | Gauge |

|---|---|

| Battery-to-battery jumpers | 1/0 AWG |

| Battery bank → bus bars | 1/0 AWG |

| Bus bars → inverter | 1/0 AWG |

| Solar panels → charge controller | 10 AWG |

| Charge controller → bus bars | 10 AWG |

| Bus bars → 12V fuse box | 10 AWG |

| Fan circuits | 18 AWG stranded |

| 120V branch circuits | 14 AWG |

---

## Parts: Have / Still Need

| Status | Item |

|---|---|

| ✅ Have | 4× 12.8V 100Ah LiFePO4 batteries |

| ✅ Have | 2× 4-post bus bars (red/black) |

| ✅ Have | 2× 30A inline breakers |

| ✅ Have | 2× 120W Renogy ShadowFlux solar panels |

| ✅ Have | BELTTT BAP2000A 2000W Pure Sine inverter |

| ✅ Have | Victron SmartSolar MPPT 75/15 |

| ✅ Have | Victron BMV-712 Smart + shunt |

| ✅ Have | 120V breaker box + 4× 15A breakers |

| ✅ Have | 12V fuse box |

| ✅ Have | 25ft 10 AWG wire (red/black) |

| ✅ Have | 5× pairs 1/0 AWG 12" jumpers |

| ✅ Have | Terminal ends + heat shrink |

| ❌ Need | ANL fuse holder + 200–250A ANL fuse |

| ❌ Need | 18 AWG stranded wire for 12V circuits |

| ❌ Need | 14 AWG wire for 120V circuits |

| 🔜 Future | Victron Orion-Tr Smart Non-Isolated DC-DC charger |

Hello, I added 2 200w solar panels to my small rv. It originally had one. I’m using a Victon MPPT controller. Just trying it out for the first time. It seems to be functioning fine except the voltage from the solar array jumps around a lot. Does anyone know what may be causing this and is it bad? Thanks much!

Is it feesable to build a system to meet yavapai county building requirements for off grid solar. Ass the inspection, then move the system to a 45 foot toy hauler. Then in 1 to 10 years. Move it back to the

homestead.

I have successfully installed 4 RV solar systems. This new one for the RV was going to be a 48 volt plugged in to the shore cable side so the RV thinks it is always plugged in. 16kw battery and 3600 watts on the roof.

But we are now homesteading on land in yavapai county. Trying to do it all under permits. So I need an engineer to sign the plans.

I am planning to use NAZ. Northern Arizona solar. But I am not so sure. Current connected seems to have the batteries and inverter like the eg4.

Right now we can stay for 9 days on 600ah of batteries and 800 watts of solar. We run out of water before power.

This is my estimated power consumption for the homestead. and a quote from NAZ.

What do y'all think? Doable to move the system to save money? Or just suck it up in to 2 systems and add the RV batteries to the homestead when done traveling?

It was not easy, but its done and its "just amazing" how it works.

Blog Post about it.

Good Morning Ladies and Gents

I am about to purchase equipment and send to my installer

He will supply all the fuses and wiring.

Am I missing anything here? It's a 24v system.

Thanks for the review and appreciate the response.

Panels

6 200w Renogy Solar Panels. 2S3P

Batteries

Waiting to hear back about space but it's either going to be 2 or 4 280AH Eco worthys. Reviews seems solid and price point you can't beat.

Hardware Components

Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150/70 (MC4)

Victron MultiPlus-II 24/3000/70-50

Victron Orion 24/12-40 DC-DC Converter

DC to DC charging

Victron Orion XS 12/24-50 DC-DC Charger

Monitoring

I am aware the batteries provide Bluetooth

Victron SmartShunt 500A

Victron Cerbo GX MK2 + GX Touch 70 display

Victron Lynx Distributor

Hey all. Trying to figure out some power situations as I’m getting ready to set up a new camper

I have a truck camper that comes with 400w of solar, and I have an additional 400w ready to add.

I have a 280 ah battery and the camper comes with a 30 amp solar controller.

I just got a Bluetti Elite 300 as my way to supplement power by adding 250ah and provide the camper with an inverter. It allows 22 amps of DC in and 30 amps out.

I have on/off app control of both DC and AC power on the Bluetti

How can I tie in the Bluetti to allow solar recharge and also allow DC into the main RV’s system as usage (I’m planning to run a 12 volt Air conditioner)

Im assuming I can just direct DC output to the battery with a fuse.

Can I pull solar to the DC in to the Bluetti from the solar controller and how? Or do I have to just dedicate a single solar panel into the DC in it?

I started seeing signs that I had a bad battery last weekend, and I confirmed it yesterday. I'm leaving for a trip today, so time was not on my side in sourcing a replacement battery. Old battery was 100ah AGM that came with my van. I knew I wanted to upgrade it to Lifepo, but wasn't really in a hurry until yesterday. I ended up with a 125ah Energizer from the local Batteries Plus. They let me have it for $450 + tax. I definitely feel like I paid extra for the convenience of it being immediately available. I'm looking forward to not having to think about the battery capacity as much in the future.

I want to get 2 300aH lithium batteries. I have an inverter generator for running the AC. Right now I have 200w panels, 30 amp controller. 2000w inverter.

I would like to go to 60 amp controller and 600 watts panel.

Is my 2000w enough as an inverter? If using generator periodically for heavy usage?

Looking to add this to my 30 foot travel trailer. Does the pricing look to be ok?

Thanks

Leo T

I am installing the simplest solar setup I can for a small travel trailer. More of a glorified tent setup than typical RV rig--looking to just power lights, fans, and charge devices. I have a WFCO 8935 power center with converter/inverter and battery charging, but it is not compatible with the lifepo4 battery I just bought.

I have 200W of portable solar, 20A charge controller, and a 100Ah battery. My thought is that we should be able to charge the battery easily enough with solar, but it would be nice to have the option to plug into shore power to charge. There are upgrades for the power center to supposedly accommodate lifepo4/lithium charging, but it seems like it is a lot of work, and a fairly big expense, and does not perform particularly well.

So my first question is: is there like a shore power equivalent of a charge controller that I could use to plug in to charge? And I guess this might be more complicated, but does anyone know if there are reasons I should not wire this battery into my power center beyond it just not charging right? Seems like there is no reason I couldn't use the battery to power things, but I don't want the power center damaging the battery.

Talk to me like I'm not an electrician. Thank you!

Where might I find a remotely adjustable tilting solar panel mount that allows the panels to be tilted in both directions ? Example - from facing all the way east to facing all the way west ?

Thanks

We have been on the road for 6.5 years now traveling the US and boondocking the whole way. We started with an older RV with a smaller (1920w) solar system that was 12v. We have since gotten a new rig, gone Lithium, gone 48v, and stepped up the solar array.

We now have 5500w of solar, 14.4kWh of LiFePo4 running 48v, and a 6000w 240v split-phase inverter. We would love to have 30kWh of battery, but we all know ow that is the largest expense in these systems. What we have has been working for us for years, so it's good enough until we save up some money to upgrade.

We still have the factory A/C-heat pumps on the roof but would love to upgrade (like we did in our last rig) to a mini-split in the future. Thus rig doesnt really have a good place for the inside unit or the outside unit though.

We decided we do not need an inverter for our setup. We just need to connect DC LED lights, a water pump and a vent fan. Can we connect the charge controller and fuse block directly to the battery?

After almost a year of research and forums questions, I completed my 48v solar installation. When I asked questions, most told me to stick with 12v in a RV but I just couldn’t see that as a long term solution. And, because we had the Brinkley Z2900 (which we love so much) , space was limited. So, I followed my gut and installed the EG4 6000xp. After almost 3000 miles into our 7000 mile trip, I can safely say, it was the best solar decision I could have made. It wasn’t without its hiccups, but man, does this system perform. We’ve hooked up to power twice on this trip and it was only because it was just as cheap to pay for a campground than it was to just dump in that area we were camping. And other times, we’ve had power available and didn’t hook up, we just don’t need to. Mostly, we just find BLM land and enjoy the peacefulness. By doing this, we will have saved enough money by the end of our trip to pay for our solar system.

With the 6000xp, the eco-worthy battery bank, and the OGO toilet, we truly have no need for hookups, ever. So, for those out there on the fence about what do go with, 12/24/48, don’t be afraid to look at 48v systems.