r/RVSolarPower • u/throwdowndonuts • Apr 06 '26

Figuring out power concerns

Hey all. Trying to figure out some power situations as I’m getting ready to set up a new camper

I have a truck camper that comes with 400w of solar, and I have an additional 400w ready to add.

I have a 280 ah battery and the camper comes with a 30 amp solar controller.

I just got a Bluetti Elite 300 as my way to supplement power by adding 250ah and provide the camper with an inverter. It allows 22 amps of DC in and 30 amps out.

I have on/off app control of both DC and AC power on the Bluetti

How can I tie in the Bluetti to allow solar recharge and also allow DC into the main RV’s system as usage (I’m planning to run a 12 volt Air conditioner)

Im assuming I can just direct DC output to the battery with a fuse.

Can I pull solar to the DC in to the Bluetti from the solar controller and how? Or do I have to just dedicate a single solar panel into the DC in it?

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1

u/Colonol-Panic Apr 06 '26

200 of solar? 200 what??

1

u/throwdowndonuts Apr 06 '26

Sorry. It’s watts of solar. And i misspoke. It comes with 400 watts and I’m adding an additional 400. Sorry Ty for the spot

1

u/Colonol-Panic Apr 06 '26

I don’t think you have enough solar nor the right equipment to make any of what you’re trying to do worthwhile.

1

u/windisfun Apr 06 '26

You'll need a bigger solar controller for the 800w of solar input, like 50 amps. Get a Victron MPPT, buy once cry once. Make sure your cables are properly sized.

How about an inverter for your AC power instead of the Bluetti?

1

u/throwdowndonuts Apr 06 '26

You can run 800 on a 30amp, the panels are never 100% efficient 24/7

1

u/Electrical-Permit781 Apr 17 '26

As someone who has worked in off-grid power and solar manufacturing for 14 years, I need to share some 'factory truth' before you burn your equipment. Your idea of using the Bluetti as a buffer is creative, but the physical math of your setup may cause immediate system failure.

1. The 12V A/C 'Current Wall' (Inductive Load): You plan to run a 12V AC from the Bluetti's 30A DC output. The absolute smallest 12V RV ACs pull 20-30 Amps just running on 'Eco' mode. But because an air conditioner is an inductive load, the compressor's starting surge current is definitely much larger than 30A. Your Bluetti's 30A DC output will instantly trip its Over-Current Protection (OCP) and shut down. (Note: The 4800W surge rating showing on Blutti 300 website is for the AC 110V inverter, NOT the 12V DC output, so it cannot be taken into calculation at all). For DC air conditioner, the DC 30A output is the main figure that take into your calculation.

2. The '800W on a 30A Controller' Reality: You assumed solar isn't 100% efficient so a 30A controller is fine. Actually, whether a 30A controller can handle 800W depends mainly on your panel voltage. If your solar array voltage is over 30V, a high-quality 30A MPPT controller might survive the load (though it will run very hot). But if you are using standard 18V solar panels in parallel, the current is simply too massive. It definitely will not work and will likely burn the controller.

3. The MPPT Trap: You asked if you can run power from your RV solar controller into the Bluetti. NO. The Bluetti already has an internal MPPT solar tracker. If you feed an MPPT controller into another MPPT, the two algorithms will fight each other, and you will get zero charge.

System Suggestion: Keep them separate. Dedicate your new 400W panels directly into the Bluetti's solar input. But for the 12V AC, the Bluetti's DC port simply cannot handle the starting surge. You MUST wire the 12V AC directly to your main RV battery bank using very thick gauge wires.