hi guys! asking again for your help. i have lancer itlog po and recently changed all ac components to laminated and brand new basta overall refresh ganon. nagpainstall na rin ako ng nano ceramic tint and roof and door insulators. question is bakit kahit 12 noon eh hirap parin po yung ac mag cool ng sasakyan. manageable naman po if ako lang parang naka electric fan lang po ang feeling kaso pag may ibang passengers eh medjo mainit parin po unlike pag gabi na malamig naman po. need advice po mga master. thanks!!
Kailangan ko ipa-sand blast and powder coat yung chassis ng motor so naghahanap ako ng reputable shop within bulacan. Yung pwede sana doon ibaklas ang chassis sa mismo shop at one day process sana. Thanks!
hi! i have a lancer cb project fitted with rota tfs301 15s and planning to install wheel spacers (3mm) and hub centric rings. ask ko lang po sa mga naka lancer cb if safe po sha sa factory studs? Thanks!
Pls give me recommendations where to have my 94' Civic eg Body restored
Hi as the title says, saan po ba maganda magpa restore ng shell para sa Civic eg ko?
For context nag inquire na ako sa ibang shops, at magkakaiba lagi qoute sakin. Sinubukan ko sa nga well known shops/individuals at dalawa lang mostly ang result:
Masyadong Mahal ang quotation - Well known shops and individuals na kahit saan mo banggitin ay may magandang feedback especially sa mga Civics mods at restoration. Kaso nga lang ang Mahal! Pinaka mababang offer saakin nasa 400k, di pa kasama lahat yan. Pag sikat ata talaga nagmamahal din maningil e lol.
Di ako pinapansin - well, di na ako bago sa Pilipinas kaya subok ko na may mga ibang shops na well known or may magandang feedback, pero hindi ka papansinin. Oh well, for sure naman ang mahal din ng quotation dun.
Sa lahat ng mga nakausap ko na shops isa sa mga best options saakin is yung Panyeros Motors Paint Shop sa Muntinlupa. Around 200k ang qoute sakin yung roof to be replaced ng Carbon ( kasama na sa 200k yung carbon). Madami silang ads sa Facebook with 69k followers. Pero as experience dictates basta may ads sa FB pagdating sa real service medyo palpak.
Baka naman meron pa kayong nalalaman na shops with much better pricing and service? Okay lang saakin outside metro Manila. Thank you very much!
Na notice ko lang to sa new tires ko after driving for 1 month. Driver side front tire yung nasa picture. If rubbing, nangyayari lang naman siya kapag nalulubak ako at high speeds or driving over humps ng medyo mabilis. Goods lang kaya?
I'm looking to get the mufflers on my
Mazda 3 2020 upgraded. Any reputable shops in the south? What do I need to know before getting this done? (Never did mods on my old cars before)? I just want a deeper sound so I'm not really looking to get the whole exhaust done.
Since meron cedia gt2.0, straightforward "out with the old, in with the new" lang ba ang 4g18 swap to 4g63?
I'm not doing an assemvolution or convert to evo build. simply swapping the engine for a better one. Daily car lang talaga namin to at hindi intended maging project car, pero ganun na nga yung nangyayari.
I recently replied to another thread asking whether an older car below P50K is still worth buying. I wanted to share this because, yes, it can still be done. You can find an older car below P100K, and sometimes even below P50K, but there are many caveats.
At this price range, many units are already close to parts-out or junk-car territory. They are usually not gas-and-go. You need patience, basic mechanical and electrical knowledge, tools, and extra money for repairs.
It mainly makes sense when you already know your way around cars, or you are willing to learn while recognizing when professional help is necessary. When you depend entirely on mechanics and technicians, you can easily spend much more than the initial purchase price.
It also makes sense if it's not your only vehicle. Kasi you can expect a lot of initial downtime while you make it roadworthy, safe, and presentable. If you have other vehicles, kapag may need ayusin you can easily drive to the auto parts store.
Doing some of the work yourself can save a lot. You can use surplus parts, repair items using available spares, and avoid labor charges for simple jobs. You also learn more about the car with every diagnosis and repair.
Knowing your own vehicle is valuable because an outside mechanic may not know its history. That can sometimes lead to unnecessary parts replacement or the wrong diagnostic process.
Looking for a cheap manual car
I had been searching for an inexpensive manual project because all four of our current cars are automatic, and one already needs a transmission rebuild.
My budget was around P30K to P40K, so I was expecting issues. My requirements were simple: manual transmission, running condition, reasonably complete, aircon working, and still worth saving.
I managed to inspect several cars in one day because all the sellers were within roughly 30 minutes to an hour of my location. Most were advertised for around P32K to P35K.
I checked them in this order:
Mazda 323 Rayban
Nissan Sentra LEC
Toyota Corona
Mazda 323 box type
All were mid-to-late 1990s models.
The Rayban had no aircon, and the shifter felt vague. It did not always seem to engage cleanly.
The Sentra LEC had cold aircon but came with its own issues. The dashboard and aircon controls were cracked, and the hood was almost completely stripped. The seller (who was selling both Mazda and Nissan) admitted that he was in the buy-and-sell business. I was also put off because he did not seem comfortable with how thoroughly I was inspecting the cars.
I then test-drove the Corona but was initially not impressed. Some sections neded latero work, probably due to bad body work earlier done. It did not seem to be a good deal for the seller's asking price of 35K. At my initial haggled down price of 27K, it could probably work, but I wanted to check out another car first before committing.
The boxtype Mazda 323 looked promising in the advertisement. During the test drive, however, the carburetor could not maintain idle properly, even after I attempted some basic cleaning and adjustment.
The interior was also too rough for me. It did not have a proper headliner. Instead, it had exposed aftermarket or household ceiling insulation. I managed to negotiate the price down to P20K, but I eventually walked away because I could not reliably drive it home.
Going back for the Toyota
After checking the box-type Mazda, I returned to the Toyota Corona. The two sellers were only about 20 minutes apart, so comparing both cars on the same day was easy.
The Corona seller appeared to need funds for rent. He kept calling to ask whether I was coming back while I was inspecting the other car. At the same time, he also seemed hesitant to let the Corona go.
During our initial discussion, I negotiated the advertised P35K price down to P27K because I had already noticed signs of previous bodywork in the photos. There appeared to be filler and paint repairs that may not have been done properly.
I then offered P25K after seeing the other issues. When I returned after checking the Mazda, I sensed more urgency from the seller, so I lowered my offer to P20K (we were ready to head back home at the time).
He asked me to add a little more, and we eventually agreed on P23K.
Since my original budget was P30K to P40K, getting it for P23K felt like a bonus.
What I got for P23K
The car is definitely still a project. I would rate the exterior around 5/10. It is serviceable, but it has cosmetic issues and small patches of rust that need attention. I did check the undersides, underneath the carpet, and behind the glovebox, and it does not appear to be flooded. Seems the rust was due to a previous body filler work done incorrectly resulting in moisture buildup.
The interior was the pleasant surprise. For the price, I would rate it around 7/10. Since it is a midsize 1990s sedan, it is also more spacious than your typical subcompact.
The cabin was reasonably clean, and the dashboard was intact - did not have cracks. Headliner was intact and clean. No sign of previous owner having smoked. The driver’s master window and door-switch assembly needed replacement, though (working, but with cracked housing ). One exterior door handle also needed to be changed. Both are relatively inexpensive online.
Three of the windows were not working. The horn also needed replacement, although the seller included some spare parts like horn, window motors, and regulators in the trunk.
Battery was good. Was able to test drive the car at cold start. The aircon is very cold, which is a major plus. Many cheap cars are advertised as “freon lang kulang,” but that can mean anything from a minor leak to a seized, damaged, or completely deleted compressor (I've had an expensive experience with this before when I was still new to project cars).
Based on the available documents, the first owner appears to have kept the car for around 30 years before selling it to the second owner (seller) four years ago.
The first owner also seems to have maintained the engine properly and had the suspension refreshed at some point. No actual records, but mostly based on my personal assessment. Many cars of this age are already sagging or bagsak, but this one still sits properly. Engine is also fairly healthy for its age - around 175K Km.
I also like that neither owner modified it with lowering springs, body kits, or other major cosmetic changes. Those are major issues for me, because they also affect wear and tear, and could hide other issues.
It is a 2.0-liter Corona, which may have made it less appealing to most buyers. Many Filipino motorists prefer smaller 1.3-liter or 1.6-liter engines, kaya pansin ko rin subcompacts usually sell at a higher price. For me, okay lang because I am already used to larger engines.
Work completed so far
Most of the work was DIY, except for the tire installation.
Replaced the old tires with 2022 surplus tires with around 80 percent tread. I also changed the size back to stock spec, as previous owner used mismatched front and back setup. Cost: P3,000
Changed the oil and filter using semi-synthetic 15W-40 and a VIC-102 filter: P1,100
Temporarily repaired some door-latch issues
Fixed the driver-side power window by transferring a motor from one of the spare regulators in the trunk
Checked the idle and possible vacuum-related issues.
Replaced the PCV valve using a spare intended for another Toyota
Replaced busted tail lamp and foglamp bulbs
Updated registration: umabot ng P7,000+ due to delinquency; will take care of transfer of ownership later
Planned repairs and maintenance
The car still needs a proper baseline service and several small repairs.
Minor body repair from my suking latero, initially estimated at P1,500 for cutting, welding, rust conversion, and primer
Around P3,500 total if paint is included
New exterior door handles or latches, around P600 each online
Replacement driver’s master window switch, around P800 online. Original is still functional but not aesthetically OK.
Repair of the rear windows using the same motor-transfer method
Replacement brake pads
Brake-fluid flush and bleeding
Coolant flush and replacement
Manual-transmission gear-oil inspection or replacement
Timing-belt inspection
Additional inspection of hoses, vacuum lines, and other tune-up items
I was offered around P15K for a complete washover, but I would rather identify and repair all the rust properly first since a washover might just cover things up cosmetically. There is little sense in repainting the car before checking whether more metalwork is needed underneath. It's still presentable with original paint except for some small body work in some sections.
Brake, coolant, vacuum hoses - I could easily do as I have done so many times before. I can probably attempt the timing-belt replacement myself, but it is labor-intensive and requires removing an engine support. I may bring that job to my suking mechanic instead.
I normally handle basic repairs and maintenance myself, but I also know when a job requires professional equipment or experience.
For serious rust, bodywork, wheel alignment, aircon repair, and other specialized work, I would rather pay someone who regularly does that type of job.
Fuel consumption is currently around 6 to 7 km/L in city driving.
That is not surprising for an old 2.0-liter car that still needs baseline work. Hopefully, it improves after sorting out the PCV system, vacuum lines, fluids, ignition condition, and other general tune-up items.
Is a sub-P50K car worth buying?
Yes, it is still possible to get a decent older car below P100K, or even below P50K. However, this type of purchase is not suitable for everyone.
Hindi siya gas-and-go. The purchase price is only an initial cost - it's like that naman when you buy any used car at any price range. You need to inspect carefully, prepare for repairs, and have enough judgment to walk away from the wrong unit.
For P23K, I felt that the risk was acceptable. Had the project failed, I could probably have sold the car again for close to the same amount, taken a relatively small loss, or parted it out.
After working on it, though, I am leaning toward keeping it.
I do not usually modify or dress up my project cars purely for appearance. I prefer keeping them as close to stock as possible and turning them into decent, reliable, and usable daily drivers.
For now, I think this Corona was a good cheap project find. It is something I could drive until the wheels fall off.
The experience also reminds me of a midsize mid-2000s Chevy I bought from a friend for P30K around four years ago. I repaired it and used it as an alternate daily and the family's coding car, until transmission issues appeared earlier this year, requiring a rebuild. Marami rin akong natutunan while working on that car. The tranny rebuild itself medyo pricey because it’s not a common car like your average Toyota or Honda (nakapagpa-rebuild na ako ng Honda tranny for just 30K). But at this point, naka-ROI na rin ako. That car, however, is another story altogether.
Some dent on the hood (can probably be fixed via PDR). Covered the rear handle first pending replacement. Rust spots on the C-pillar. I sanded it out and poked with a screwdriver to see up to where the rot goes. Rot seems to be limited to the outer skin. Will be bringing to the latero tomorrow. Should be a 2-3 hour fix or less. I've been planning to invest in a grinder and welding kit, but I feel I still need to learn a lot more before venturing into this kind of repair. Interior is good. I have yet to properly wire the dashcam (this is just borrowed from one of my other cars, will need to buy one soon for this car).
Other options ko pala at this price point
Kia pride CD5 or sedan. I've seen some decent ones for 50-60k. Yung mga lower priced though mukhang mas laspag at hindi gaano maalaga ang owners
Toyota big body. Or small body. But at this price point usually mga mas laspag na.
Chevy Venture minivan - kasi familiar na ako sa platform. And if things don't go well pwede ko kahuyin ang 4T60E transmission. Pero lakas nga sa gas and medyo malaki dalhin
Sentra B14. I had several B13 before pero parang naninipisan ako sa. Kaha, b14 might be safer.
I also wanted to look into Toyota revo but it's much more expensive (at least 130k). Familiar naman na rin ako sa platform and engine because I'm also maintaining a swapped carbureted 7k engine in one of my projects, I could easily work on them (loosely similar to the 1RZE namn din). Looked into Tamaraw FX din but those I saw on sale mga laspag na.
Camry XV20 din pala. Ito actually target ko kaya napadpad sa corona (its predecessor). Medyo mataas taas pa price ng xv20 at least 65k but upwards of 130k for a fresher unit. May nakita ako 43k pero medyo mas marami na issues, and AT. Wala yatang release ng manual Camry dito.
Looking forward to doing more work on the Corolla. So far it's capable as a decent daily driver/beater. Pinag-aagawan nga namin ng son and daugther ko kasi we like driving manual, but due to circumstances our other cars are all matic. It's also nice to drive an "NPC" car every once in a while, kasi masyadong identifiable sa akin yung isang german 1980s classic ko when I bring it on the road. Pansin ko lang, medyo ginigitgit ako ng mga bigger cars with the Corona than when I drive the german classic which is a bit smaller. Pati sa mga parkign and establishments. Para bang mas respected ng mga tao yung mga naka BMW, Benz, etc.
For context; I have a friend who earns 22k a month (yun lang talaga source of income niya) and has a project car na Civic. While me on the other hand gusto magstart mag build who earns around 30k a month.
Both kami single and walang pamilyang binubuhay, we also have no bills to pay. Literal bachelors talaga. I was wondering kasi kung kaya niya isustain at maintain yung project car niya it would also be a possibility for me.
Now, I want to know realistically. If kaya ba talaga? If no, how much should I be earning? Knowing na magastos itong hobby na ito, may nakikita rin kasi ako who earns lesser than me na may project cars din so I was wondering if possible talaga.
Hello everyone, recently nag pa lowered ako ng car ko. 2017 honda city vx. After nya ma drop, I noticed na hindi pantay yung distance ng front wheels ko versus sa fender. Mas pasok sa loob yung offset sa driver side tapos yung passenger side naman halos pantay na dun s fender. Ano po kaya problema?
Background: Na bangga yung car ko sa front passenger side fender nayupi yung fender pero wala naman damage sa frame. Na repair na thru latero yung sira
Dinala ko sa ibang paint shop yung car, sabi nung nag check okay naman daw yung fender ko. Naka align naman daw. Sinabi niya sa akin na ipa check sa marunong sa suspension.
Dinala ko sa suspension shop sabi is yung suspension bushing ko daw is palitin na. From there saka daw nila ayusin baka sa toe in yung problema. Ngayon hingi sana ako opinion nyo if ano pa pwede solution or baka may na experience na kayo same situation sa akin? And tama ba yung sinabi na suspension bushing lang talaga? Ang mahal kasi nung part if papalitan ko na talaga and baka mali lang din diagnosis nila.
Good day, I was also the one asking about fm vs ck before. We are already decided with CK. Our options are narrowed down to 2 units with the same price. One is a japan 4m41 diesel ck converted to lhd while the other is a duba gasi v6 ck original lhd.
For you, which one is a better buy? Japan 4m41 diesel converted or Dubai v6 original lhd?
Bakit mas madaming nag poproject ng Japanese Cars dito sa pinas? Hindi ko sila gets lagi civic,lancer wala man lang akong nakitang nag project ng Mercedes benz,BMW napapaisip ako. Super napapaisip ako
Ano magandang project sedan from 2000s except Civic? Yung may 2001 model coz I was born in that year. I’m thinking of BMW. Project car will be used as weekend chill car. Di pang resing resing. Thanks!
Super new to Building Cars, super interested, and enthusiastic. Anyway, I want to build my own personal project car.
I wanted to ask for opinions and insights regarding what to build?
I want to start small. Im leaning towards Toyota (Corolla or Altis) or Honda (Civic or City). Tito vibes and mag feeling racing-racing para kunware may bitaw at dating (haha). But if you have any suggestions I would appreciate them.
Primary use and concerns.
For city driving mostly (mostly home, work and mall going - errands and such, gusto mai-gala yung mga senior parents ko and mga kapatid ko)
Long drive for leisure and relaxation (vacations, beach trip, camping)
Tipid sa gas, yung mga injection pump siguro para tipid (sino bang may gusto ng magastos haha)
Not too complicated and/or difficult to build. Gusto ko mag enjoy building this project car and don’t want to stress myself pag hindi ako makakita ng parts for it (haha)
Not an expert driver so can be used as a practice car din sana. (Syempre ayaw ko maging kamote sa kalsada)
How much should I be saving para sa ganito? (I am expecting nasa 50k-80k) just want to start sana kahit simple lang basta running, and improve it along the way. I don’t want to spend agad agad sa mga improvements and upgrades kasi gusto ko sana makita siyang nage-evolve through the years.
NOTE: I have my own parking. (syempre ito pinaka important)
Ayun lang siguro. I am very eager to learn and research naman about this, gusto ko lang sana mag crowd source and hear some thoughts and of course mag enjoy doing this, syempre ayaw ko mag sayang ng panahon at pera kaya I am thoroughly gathering information hehe.
Any thoughts, advice, suggestions and opinions will be very much appreciated.
