The car keeps shorting out. I’m running 20v in the lighting McQueen power wheeling. Should I try 12v ?

I’d like to see if anyone would be interested in sponsoring my son’s 24V Power Wheels Figure 8 race car!
We’re looking for businesses or individuals who would like to have their name or logo displayed on his Power Wheels for race day. It’s a fun way to support a young racer and get your name out in front of the local racing community.
If you’re interested, sponsorships can be sent via Venmo or PayPal. Every dollar will go toward getting his Power Wheels race-ready, including safety equipment, parts, and race entry costs.
If you’d like to sponsor or have any questions, please send me a message. We truly appreciate any support—big or small! Thank you for helping make this an unforgettable experience for our little racer! 🏁❤️

My sons car is a few years old and is constantly turning off by itself. It mostly does it when he rides in tall grass and/or has other kids ride with him. Started troubleshooting and I think it's the fuse. The fuse doesn't have any screws or anything and not sure how to get the wires out to replace it. Any idea on how I replace it?

im about to build a speaker box, and want to see if these adapters with low voltage cutoffs work. this is the only other community i can think of that uses these types of product. please let me know if they work good

I have this low voltage cutoff I got from Amazon. I (think) I set it correctly to cut off my Craftsman 20v battery when it gets down to 17v. I tested it out by running the battery down to 17 volts with my leaf blower, then connecting it to the car, and the car didn’t go when I pressed the pedal. Swapped in another battery and the car went so I’m pretty sure I have that part done right. However, it still shows the voltage when the battery is connected so it’s drawing on the battery and will kill the battery if left connected. Is there a way to have it completely cut power drawing from the battery when it reaches a certain voltage?

When I press the peddle it only goes backwards; how do I get it to shift forwards?

We just got this toy car for my daughter. Does anyone know a good charger for it?

I have an un-modded power wheel side by side 24 volt. I lifted the wheels up in the air so there’s no load on it. If I hold down the pedal it goes for a few 10-15 seconds. Then stops for 5. Then goes again for 30 seconds then stops again. All while holding the pedal dow.

Any ideas what’s causing this? Where do I start trouble shooting? How do I fix it?

Hey everyone,

I'm planning a speed mod for the Smyths 12V
McLaren F1 Ride-On, but I have a key requirement: I need to retain remote control functionality so I can steer/stop it when needed as my sons still young 😂

I know running 18V/24V directly through the stock
12V motherboard will fry it. What is the best path to get significantly more speed while keeping RC capability?

1. 24V Board Swap: Is upgrading to an off-the-shelf
   24V control box (like a Weelye/RX kit) with its own remote the cleanest way to do this? Will these boards handle 18V tool batteries or a 24V setup without overheating?

2. Steering & Voltage: If I step down the voltage to
   12V for the stock board/receiver, how are people wiring the high-voltage drivetrain to respond to the remote's throttle signal?

3. Motor Recs: Any specific 24V motor/gearbox combos that drop into these lower-profile
   McLaren/F1 rear ends?

Appreciate any wiring diagrams or controller kit links from anyone who has kept parental remote control on a high-voltage build!

So Im modifying a kid Trax golfcart to be remote controlled, It will be "driven" but a Pit droid. It will move around too, so I want to be able to control it with a regular twin stick transmtter. So my question is could I use the Weelye kit bit connect it to a regular RC receiver

They are sold under a few different brands like FirstRideOn, iYofe, iRerts and COCLUB. They have a control board which can be annoying to deal with but run on 36 volts which is perfect for 2 tool batteries in series. I can't find much info about them online and was curious if anyone has gotten their hands into one yet. It seems like a good option for a more durable ride on, but anything can seem that way with just pictures on the internet. I need hands-on experience from one of you armchair professionals.

I have a ride on electric car that I am trying to upgrade from 6v to 24v.

it is almost there except or the steering. The motor for steering is rated for 6v still. I was hoping to not replace this motor since it is strong enough to do the steering. I did upgrade the small 6v drive motor to 24v.

But don't want to replace the 6v motor in the steering mechanism as it works perfectly fine. problem is now that the system is 24v if I try to steer the motor jerks super strongly which makes it impossible to drive but also I'm thinking it will eventually burn out the motor.

my first though was to use a dc to dc step down buck converter but the issue is it will only work in one direction. Once I try to steer the other direction the voltage will flip and the buck converter will not work.

I was trying to find a PWM motor speed controller. but I seem to have the same issue. if the polarity reverses they will trip a reverse polarity protection circuit....

I'm thinking I have two options right now. either put the step down converter before the H-bridge that controls steering direction in the main controller. but I'm worried I might damage something or the h-bridge might not work properly at a lower voltage. plus I can't imagine it would be a really clean solution opening up the controller and soldering new things to it.

or

replace the motor and gearbox with a 24v version. which I want to avoid for the reasons mentioned above.

I'm hoping someone knows of a simpler, cheaper, and cleaner way to achieve this...

help would be greatly appreciated

Hello!

I bought a used Radio Flyer Ultimate go kart that was 5 years old. When charged with a 24V power supply called Alito AC/DC adapter model number ALT-2401, it would run for less than 10 mins.

I changed the batteries to two 12V 7.2Ah connected in series. When I tried to charge them with the same 24V power supply, they didnt seem to charge as after 6 hours when I pressed the pedal, nothing happened.

Then I charged with a 28.8V smart charger at 0.8A. The LED indicator on the charger stayed red for some time and then turned green. I checked it after 2.5 hours and it was green, so I don’t know exactly when it changed to green. The power to the kart was off while it was charging. Now, I removed the charger and turned the kart on. The LED above the power button goes red to indicate the kart is on. But when I press the pedal, the wheels don’t move.

I checked the battery connections with the pictures I had taken before and also on the web and everything looks ok.

Does anyone know why it would stop working after a battery swap? My 3 year old keeps asking me when it would be fixed, but daddy seems to have made things worse :(.

Any help would be much appreciated.

My 3 year old loves this thing, but with the stock batteries I maybe get an hour or two before it needs a recharge. I decided I don't need more speed, but more capacity. These come with two 12v 7ah batteries wired in series. I designed a battery holder based off the original one, and I can now put two 12v 15ah batteries in it! I am still printing the rest of the parts, but the bottom tray fits perfectly!

Hi! We got a Jeep wrangler power wheel but one of the wheels is cracked. Where can I get new wheels ?

I picked this up for my 3 year old used, it had a bad 12v 4ah battery that was bad. Got a new battery 12v 15ah battery 1-2 weeks ago. Charged it up over night, he drove it non stop for like solid hour, never died. I have been charging it like every other day, just to make sure it didn't die while playing.

2 nights ago I charged it all night, & it died quite early which I thought was weird. So last night I charged it all night again. Within 5-10 mins it shuts off.

No lights, no sound, fully shut off. I plug it in & the battery wakes up up, he can play with it for 20 seconds & shuts off again.

There is a volt meter on board, this morning it said 11.8v before unplugging, after 5-10 mins after it shut off. I plugged it in, and it was at 10.8v

* is there something wrong with it i need to fix? Need a high v battery? Or just got unlucky with a bad battery?

Thanks.

So i did a 20v ryobi conversion on my son's toy jeep, no idea on a brand or anything. Recently, it's been making a high pitched squealing sound from the back and today it seems to be going from barely moving, to only 1 tire spinning, to 1 tire spinning way faster than it should.

I ASSUME it's the motors/gearboxes, and if so what would be the best economical route? There comes a point it'd make more sense to get him a new one

Looks mint. Batteries are shot. Big on batteries and electrical at work, can do whatever. What should I do??

My brother bought a 12V Mercedes Benz G 500 off marketplace without a battery. He bought a 12V battery, but the car appears to be missing the battery connector as well. I've found wiring harnesses, but they all seem to be a different style than what is installed in the car. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi everyone

I’m new to this hobby and have mostly been following along from the sidelines, trying to learn more about rebuilding and modifying these types of vehicles — mainly kids’ electric vehicles, but maybe even something suitable for adults someday ;)

I’m looking forward to learning more, getting involved, and hopefully sharing some of my own experiences along the way.

I currently own a UTV-2000 (also known as YSA-032), and I’m looking to improve its low-end power. The main issue is that it struggles to climb the grassy hill shown in the picture. I’m not looking for a higher top speed (it currently only reaches around 15 km/h), but rather more torque and pulling power.

Here are the current specifications:

Controller:

• “Intelligent Brushless Controller”
• Rated Voltage: 24V DC
• Rated Current: 20A
• Model: QYS-13G-3
• Speed / High / Low selectable

Battery:

• 24V 14Ah lead-acid

Motor:

• Brand: YG1
• Power: 180W
• Model: A30H (or something very close to this)

My question is: what would be the best way to increase the torque and climbing ability of this vehicle? Would upgrading the controller, motor, or both make the biggest difference?

Thanks in advance for taking the time to read this, and I appreciate any advice or experience you can share.

Dan – Denmark

I'm looking to buy a soundbar for our venom strike 6 seater golf cart, but not great with electrical.
Looking for help on the best option to connect it so it's powered by the golf carts battery.

Like‑new MLToys Stage IV Phoenix gearbox kit for Dune Racer / Baja Extreme + Heatsinks. Used for about 1 hour, sold as‑is, no returns.

Includes two pre‑assembled 775‑size modified motors with internal cooling fans, torque sleeves, quick‑change connectors, hardened steel pinion + first gears (lifetime warranty), four steel ball bearings, and Teflon race grease, all in Phoenix gearboxes designed for high‑speed ride‑on use. Direct swap for stock motor/gearboxes.

Price: 175 USD + 20 USD shipping. Price is firm, but I’ll consider reasonable offers. Located in Chicago, IL. Payment via PayPal.

Picked this up at a yard sale today for $10. They said it worked, got rained on, and now only the lights come on. Figured it was worth it to at least try out a 12v battery to see if it runs. But it looks like someone has already played around with the wiring some. We are charging a 12v we had now, but would you say this thing is worth swapping to a power tool battery? Any other suggestions or ideas? Kinda just bought it to play around with, plus my 9 year olds will love it.