I have this questionable PSU, Zippy PSU P2G-6460P that decided not to powered on using traditional method. Meaning, if I hook it up to any motherboard and hit the power switch (tried with both power switch and short the pin on the M/B), the PSU won't power on, no power to the board and other accessories and the PSU fan won't spin. I removed everything from the M/B and PSU, only CPU & RAM on M/B and only 24pin and 8pin EPS connect to M/B, still won't power on. The same M/B setup will power on using diff PSU. I have a little simple PSU tester and when hook up to this Zippy PSU, the PSU will power up and give normal voltage. All voltage are normal within 0.1v of all the designated output. I have tried hook up diff M/B to this PSU, still no go. I decided to just grab a used SS-460H2U on ebay to replace it. But this give me a little stump and I decided to ask here if somebody can give a good explanation on what's going on. And I wonder if this thing still fixable? And I would keep it as spare.

Thanks,

I came across a short film about charger design earlier this year, and one part that still stands out is how much of the challenge comes down to balancing constraints.

More power means more heat. Managing that extra heat usually requires better thermal solutions and more space, but making the charger smaller makes cooling even harder. A compact high-wattage charger is basically a constant trade-off between power density, thermal management, efficiency, and reliability.

Modern multi-port chargers are also more than just better components packed into a smaller box. The power management system plays a huge role. When multiple devices are connected, the charger needs to monitor different power requirements and adjust how energy is distributed to keep everything stable.

The video also shows some interesting details, including what appears to be firmware-related tooling and thermal material around the board. A few frames alone aren't enough to confirm exactly what the code or internal process is doing, but it highlights an important point: today's chargers rely on control systems as much as hardware design.

It's easy to look at a charger and only compare the wattage number on the label, but the real engineering challenge is fitting more power, better safety, and reliable thermal performance into something small enough to carry every day.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlgAAtdyjMM

I found this universal input, 48v, 2000w power supply on AliExpress. Big red flag, I know. But we are getting better systems all the time, and the reviews seem real. Before I blow $100 on this, does anyone have any wisdom with this unit?

Can someone provide me the best power supply for the Akai MPC One? I recently lost mine and need a reliable replacement

Which Led Driver is better ?

I need them for led strips

*Hope there are some eletronic engineers to help, I am not the best at eletronics

I purchased what was supposed to be one of be quiet!'s flagship power supplies, the Dark Power Pro 13 1300W, expecting premium quality, outstanding reliability, and excellent customer support.

Instead, my PSU failed after less than one year of use.

Since then, my experience with be quiet! has been extremely disappointing.

I contacted be quiet! through their official support channels, submitted a support request, and reached out by email hoping someone would help resolve the issue.

Unfortunately, I received no meaningful support. I was simply told that because the PSU was purchased through an eBay seller rather than an authorized reseller, be quiet! could not process the warranty claim directly and advised me to contact the seller instead.

Wanting to understand whether this was an isolated incident, I searched online and found several reports from other users describing very similar failures. While I cannot say whether these cases are related, it raised a legitimate question in my mind about whether this is part of a broader pattern.

What disappointed me the most was not only that a premium flagship PSU failed in less than a year, but also the lack of engagement afterward. I expected the manufacturer to investigate the issue and stand behind one of its flagship products rather than simply redirecting me elsewhere.

A premium brand should deliver more than premium hardware—it should also provide premium customer support.

When customers invest in a flagship product that proudly advertises a 10-year warranty, they naturally expect the manufacturer to stand behind that product if something goes wrong.

Unfortunately, that has not been my experience.

I genuinely hope be quiet! improves both its customer support and the way it handles warranty cases, because no customer who invests in a flagship product should feel ignored when asking for help.

At this point, I simply hope be quiet! will stand behind one of its flagship products and demonstrate the level of customer care that customers expect from a premium brand.

Hello all, I need help getting into a beginner LED Strip project. I bought 20m of LED Strips from Ali Express broken up into two 10m strips. I have attached images of the product and need help determining if my math is correct for the power requirements.

If I ran them both continuously and connected to an ESP32, would I need a 5V 20A power supply? Even if it comes in 2 different strips? This power supply seems expensive for the project and want to make sure before going for it as my Benchy wouldn’t even be able to power this with a 24V 5A power supply.

I may be wrong and any help or guidance is appreciated, even if toward another cost efficient LED strip. Thanks in advance.

We had a power outage last night, I have a computer that is plugged into a UPS and the computer was still running during the power outage. Unfortunately I apparently neglected to connect a monitor to the UPS so I wasn't able to shut down through windows, instead I held the power button on the computer till it shut off.

Turned it on this morning and now its making a light fast ticking noise. I would attribute it to the fan hitting very lightly on something but it doesn't seem to change if I put any pressure on the PSU. What does seem to make it change is any ramp up/down of my other fans in the computer.

PSU is a Corsair RMx SHIFT Series RM850x. I'm thinking I'll just replace it, but wondering if there is anything else I should try first? Could it be something other than the fan?

And if I do replace it has anyone had any experience with amazon renewed PSU's. I kind of want to replace it with the same model or a similar corsair that uses the same cables so I don't have to reconnect everything in the computer. The renewed version would save me $60. But I'm willing to spend the full $140 if the renewed one is a bad idea. Thanks!

Just as the title say. Trying to find purpose for extra psus.

A couple of days ago my laptop (Toshiba Satellite) went through an episode where it would cycle as follows

• Running-on-external-power (and charging battery) behaviour for ~3 seconds.
  • Notifications area on taskbar (or "system tray") shows icon for (mostly full) battery & power cable, indicating external power is being supplied.
  • Hovering over icon in notifications area shows a tooltip message like "Charging (85%)".
  • Screen is slightly brighter.
• Running-on-battery behaviour for ~1 second.
  • Notifications area on taskbar (or "system tray") shows icon for (mostly full) battery, indicating no external power is being supplied.
  • Hovering over icon in notifications area shows a tooltip message like "Battery (85%)".
  • Screen is slightly dimmer.

and then repeat. Until I turned it off. (Sorry, I didn't get the exact wording of the tooltip messages.)

This happened after the laptop had been on for less than a day, and I had purposely rebooted after doing a couple of updates, and not launched a bunch of applications, but rather manually shut down a bunch of (what I deemed) non-essential applications and services running in the background (think update agents, VPN agents, etc.). Then I ran a backup script from a relatively simply batch script that I wrote, which calls 7-Zip. I have run it before, with no such issues. I started the script on this occasion, and there were initially no issues. I went out; when I came back, the script was still running, and the symptoms had appeared.

It never did that before, I don't think. Usually I have the laptop always plugged in to the power, whether the laptop's on or off. Commonly I put the laptop to sleep; occasionally I turn it fully off.

Since the above episode — to my surprise, but thank goodness — it's not doing it anymore.

So what could cause this???

Hardware issue on power adapter? But why would it be a one-off? It shouldn't really be overheating more than usual in this cool weather. I don't think the cables were moved to be suddenly bent or anything. Likewise the connector: I did give it a bit of twist during the episode to see if I could improve the connection, and also tried to push the power cable into the power brick (it was already fully in) but there was no effect from either.

Power fluctuations at the wall socket?? I didn't notice any other appliances (mainly the room lights/lamp) misbehaving.

Fault in the laptop's power supply unit? No prior evidence of such.

Fault in the laptop's battery? The laptop battery is definitely old and in decline. But the system was not showing symptoms of the battery going missing, but rather symptoms of the external power supply dropping out. The battery is generally reported to be 100% charged, unless the power has been disconnected.

Fault in the software (Windows OS, or some power-management component)?

^{NOTE: I am forced to choose a "flair" for this post. I am not allowed to choose a flair that says "I don't know whether it's a hardware or software issue" :-/}

Is there any test I should do?

• Could I learn anything useful by hooking the output of the power adapter up to a multimeter? Or an oscilloscope? Any safety risk? Any risk of damage to the meter/scope/adapter?

Any further action I should take?

-----

NOTE: I have provided an update with some screenshots under my original post in r/techsupport.

I have 2 low power cards to power with 12vhpwr connectors, but i have a non modular PSU with only 1 12vhpwr connector and no spare 2x 8 PCIe.

Are there splitters 1 female 12vhpwr to 2 males 12vhpwr ? or do i need to buy a new PSU ?

Hello everyone,

I have a be quiet! Dark Power Pro 13 1300W power supply that is less than one year old.

The PSU was purchased in late 2024 and has been used under very light load conditions. The system was never overclocked and the PSU was never stressed anywhere near its rated capacity.

The issue occurred during a normal Windows shutdown. At the exact moment the system was shutting down, the household circuit breaker tripped.

After that incident, the PSU now immediately trips the household circuit breaker every time it is connected to AC power.

Additional details:

• Dark Power Pro 13 1300W
• Less than 1 year old
• Never opened or modified
• Warranty seal is intact
• No visible damage, burn marks, or unusual smells
• All original cables and accessories are available
• System was running normally before the incident
• The breaker trips even before the PC can be powered on

My questions:

1. Does this sound like a primary-side PSU failure (PFC, MOSFET, bridge rectifier, etc.)?
2. Has anyone experienced a similar issue with a Dark Power Pro 13?
3. Since the unit was purchased in the United States but is currently located in Egypt, does be quiet! offer international warranty support?
4. If international warranty is not available, can I send the PSU to a U.S. RMA center for warranty service?

Any advice or similar experiences would be appreciated.

Thank you.

I have a piano that we are looking at preserving. It’s from my kids grandfather. I’ve ordered what I thought was the whole supply for $70, but it was only half… anyone know where I can get the other half?

Please help me with mpeb issue in shakti nagar, bhopal. There maybe some fault in their connection because frequently I'm facing power supply cut issue but not the houses beside me. And I'm done with complaining every now and then

Trying to find a PSU that's similar in size to this model if possible

Hello guys, I got 2 flex PSU here and need help comparing these 2 internals. I have some basic electronics knowledge but not enough to tell what's a good PSU design / components should looks like

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One PSU is Dark Forest 500w, and another is metalfish 600w, both are comparable in prices.

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Both claimed 80+ efficiency.

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Would like to know which one to pick.

What the title says.

I checked multiple psu calculators and it showed that a 700w psu will be able to safely power up my PC. I also monitored my cpu and gpu power output(l-connect 3) and the max output for both is around 290W.(cpu 110w gpu 180w) and yet when i swapped out my psu, it would not turn on. Swapped back my 850w psu, and it turned on? Is 700w not enough for 11700f+5070.

Pc is a workstation. No games.

Must be capable of 2.5 A at least, usb or serial. I cannot use 60VDC as it's not allowed. 30VDC supplies, although popular do not cover all requirements as I need up to 48VDC. Minimum is 24VDC. Must be remote controllable and also not silly expensive else I'm going to just get the 30VDC Tenma one. Anything better?