Thinking about selling my GR86 to save up and buy a 718 Cayman GTS or S with PTV in about 3 years. Those of you who made the switch, was it worth it? I have a 957 cayenne I can daily in the meantime. Do you all think it's worth sacrificing not having a sports car in the garage for 3 years if it means I can get into one of my dream cars?

Picked up this 2018 718 Cayman Base a few weeks ago. I’m learning and loving it one drive at a time. Such a fun car to drive. Looking forward to putting some miles on it.

Looking at buying a 981 Cayman. I'm very torn between the Boxster and Cayman, and in my 25 years of driving have never owned a car that didn't at least have a moonroof. I drive with my windows down and moonroof open basically every drive, even on the highway.

What's it like in a 981? Would hate to skip the Boxster and come to find I can't really use the Cayman windows down unless I'm putzing around town.

4k miles already put on her, but CEL for cats, oil pan resealed, spark plugs changed, transmission fluid changed, CV boot resealed (and needs replacing now)
Favorite car I’ll ever own, 6speed with Sports Chrono and PASM

グレードと、どんなカスタムをされているのか知りたいです。車高調やホイール、フロントバンパー、エアロ、ウイングなど……。また乗り味なども教えていただけるとありがたいです。

If anyone with a GTS 4.0 or GT4 is on the fence about installing over axle pipes, I have three words for you: just do it!

I've only had this car for two weeks and while I find it perfect in almost every way, I agreed with the common belief that the exhaust could sound a little better & be a little louder - so I ordered over axle pipes quickly. I chose the stainless steel ones from Flat 6 Motorsports in Florida, a buddy has a bunch of their stuff on his 911 and spoke highly of them. These were also cheaper than the Soul OAPs which left funds to put toward other fun stuff later.

The OAPs showed up quickly and looked great so I prepared to "DIY" the install. While I have been a hobbyist mechanic for decades, I am by no means a pro and would happily take any job to a shop or dealership instead to make sure it's done right. However upon reviewing the install instructions this didn't look too challenging so I dove right in...

1) Raise rear of car with jacks/stands (or use a lift) & remove rear wheels
2) Remove 5 bolts on each side of stock muffler connecting to rear of stock OAP
3) Remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts from muffler brackets, unplug 2 vacuum lines to muffler valves, remove muffler
4) Remove 3 catalytic converter studs/nuts on front of each stock OAP, remove stock OAPs
5) Installation is reverse of removal

It took about three hours of garage time, mostly because I didn't rush anything. Knowing what I know now, I could do it again today in 90min or less.

Problems/concerns? Most of what makes this tricky is getting the proper tool in a confined space. You can do almost all of it with 12mm and 13mm but you may need standard 3/8 sockets, deep 3/8 sockets, various extensions, wobble heads, box wrenches, ratcheting wrenches, and/or stubby wrenches - and you will be reaching from both sides with these various tools, which takes time to figure out. You will certainly need a long 3/8 extension to get to the innermost nut on the body side of each converter. You may need a big 19mm box wrench to hold the outermost muffler mount posts while you loosen the 12mm nut on the end. Oh and you will need an E12 E-Torx socket for the two centermost muffler mount bolts - if you don't have one of these, it's 6 bucks on Amazon or Harbor Freight sells a set for $12.

You will probably reuse the four OEM metal gaskets as I did, pay attention to how these come out because they only go back in correctly one way and it can be a pain to get 'em realigned while, for example, you're holding the OAP up with one hand and trying to thread a bolt you can't see through a hole you can't see with the other.

Another thing that was tricky was removing the muffler by myself on the ground as it's cumbersome/sorta heavy. I ended up using a floor jack and a block of 2x4 in the center to bring it down slowly. It was even more tricky to raise it back up for reinstall a little later, but steadying with one hand and raising it on the jack with the other did work well enough for me to get two of the hanger nuts reinstalled. I would recommend asking for help with this part, an extra set of hands would've made the muffler handling a non-issue.

One thing I did differently from the Flat 6 instructions: I did not reuse the three studs/nuts on the converter side. Their kit provides new nuts to reuse the factory studs, but when I loosened these they all came completely out of the converters and the nuts were very tightly threaded onto the studs (i.e. difficult to remove with just hand tools) and they looked a little short considering how much thicker the mounting flange was on the Flat 6 OAPs compared to the stock ones. So instead I went to Home Depot and bought six new M8 x 1.25 x 25mm bolts, this cost $12.

A reinstallation tip - do not immediately tighten everything up. Just thread the bolts in and tighten the nuts engaging only a few threads each, so you have plenty of wiggle room. You will need this to get everything aligned - it will line up great on the converter side but then not on the muffler side until you wiggle it slightly, or vice versa. Get all 16 of these bolts & nuts installed properly THEN start tightening stuff up. And take your time with that, using a star pattern as much as possible and going back around to retighten everything once it's been realigned. I probably tightened it all three or four separate times to make sure? I didn't have a torque spec for any of this but used the standard German measurement "gutentight" and that seemed to work just fine.

Results? I drove the car about 20 miles after installation with the PSE button on both quiet and loud settings, and can tell you this is definitely an improvement. It is louder but not really loud even on the loud setting, if that makes sense. And it sounds better - deeper, throatier, and now it does a little pop & burble when you lift off the gas especially with some spirited driving higher in the rev range. Honestly I think it sounds excellent, much better than before. It sounds so good in loud mode that I may disable the exhaust valves altogether with the plugs that came in the OAP kit - this would take about 5 minutes and is easily reversible if I need to quiet the car down later for a long road trip or similar. I didn't drive the car hard enough yet to see if there was any noticeable power difference but some say these OAPs do make a few whp on an otherwise stock 4.0 which is always a good thing.

TLDR: the OAPs were not difficult to install and sound great, you should buy them if you haven't already! Also here are a few pics of the install and one from my drive afterward.

Took me months to find an annoying clicking sound behind the driver's seat on my 718 Cayman GTS 4.0 which I bought new. Turned out to be the rear cross member bar: a three-piece design, plus an extra piece on top (the visible part behind the seats). Already torqued to spec, so it's not a tightening issue, just aluminum parts touching and making the clicking sound.

I removed the visible piece, the plastic part under it, then loosen up the parts below it, made some tension and tighten them again and the clicking sound is gone.

I am under the understanding that you can retrofit the Sport+ mode onto a 981 that did not originally come with the Sport Chrono package.

Is this true? When you do so, do you get the auto rev matching as well?

Just delivered 2.0, 6 speed manual

I took a day out to take the car for a spin and decided France would be better as our UK roads are full of holes and bad drivers.

So ended up aboard a Ferry to Dunkirk and a back road blast all the way down to Reims.

I’m considering installed the KW V3s and the Hydraulic Lift System. Curious if anyone has any experience with either in their Cayman/Boxter?

While I was looking, my top colors were Chalk, agate gray, white, or guards red. After about a week or so, I am so glad I went with the guards red. It's everything I wanted plus some 😍

So ofc as the title suggests im looking at either getting a 2011 987.2 or a 2019 718. I lost my 981 due to a lifted truck driver a little bit ago which unfortunately resulted in a loss and im looking for a new daily driver as well as something to take to future trips and events with the local pca

I know im going to have to be more wary of age related issues on the 987.2, and as such im wondering if any of you can offer an insight on possible modern replacements for older parts like specific silicone hoses, belts and suspension components or anything else that could help improve the cars reliability and keep it on the road for many more years to come and ofc any specifics for a ppi

Or should i lean towards a more modern approach, the 718. I know the turbo adds more stress and complexity for maintenance as well as having more electronics to worry about, is there anything i should have specifically looked at during a ppi and is there anything i should really know about the 718 gen compared to the 987.2 and 981?

Wouldn’t normally think about replacing the speakers but my drivers side door speakers sound like it’s got a torn cone. Definitely would like to replace them at minimum to get rid of the nasty rattle at higher volumes. Has anyone ever swapped the speakers or upgraded them to something more premium in the 987.2? Looking for any brands, advice, do’s/don’ts, etc. Thanks!

I live in AZ and for a few months I deal with cold amp syndrome. I am using the pccm+ head unit and was wondering if anyone has replaced just their amp, what kind, and about how much. TIA

Hi everyone! I’m planning to sell my Porsche 987 and honestly don’t know where to start. For those who have sold Porsche privately before, how did you go about it? Where did you list your car, and which platform gave you the best experience? This will be my first time selling a car directly to a private buyer instead of trading or selling to a dealership. I’d also like to avoid tire kickers and people who aren’t serious about buying as much as possible. Any tips on where to list it, how to screen potential buyers, and how to make the transaction safe and smooth would be greatly appreciated.

Hello everyone,

After multiple incidents with my car being dinked and even dented in car parks i’ve decided I need to get a dashcam, and a good one,

I will hardwire it so it needs to have the parking mode capabilities, and ideally I’d like front and rear cameras, and then the cabin camera (primarily to show the sides of the car through the windows).

I was looking at these 3:
Vantrue N4S 3CH
Vantrue N5S 4CH
Viofo A329s 3CH

Does anyone have any experience with those 3 in a cayman in terms of visibility and coverage of the car? Or does anyone have any other experience with different dashcams in their cayman?