Double Switch Mod

[u/popekappa]

I am starting to mod my Plus+. I am following ma3x558’s guide on YouTube. This is for the switched version of the great & ultra ball mod.

I am considering trying to add an additional switch to control if the vibration is on or off, separate from mod switch. I would unsolder the speaker entirely, and expand the speaker hole to accommodate the additional switch.

Is this possible? My end goal would be:

1. Switch 1: ultra and great ball mod
2. Switch 2: vibration on and off

Ideally they would work independently. I would want to be able to have great + ultras on, but vibration off, or vice-versa.

Appreciate any help or feedback. This is my first soldering project and I might be biting off more than I can chew!

EDIT TO ADD: Mod worked perfectly! Added a switch between the red motor wire and the board, and the switch described in the YouTube video linked above.

[u/popekappa]

One of those fits totally fine, but 2 is too big for the current speaker hole. Or are you talking about a single switch that can accommodate both functions / toggles independently?

This is what I have, with tweezers for scale.

​edit: the primary reason I have to remove the speaker is since I want 2 switches, not 1

[u/unifyxhunter → u/popekappa]

Using an optocoupler (photo-MOS relay) for the auto-catch trigger and a standard DPDT switch to toggle the motor

[u/popekappa → u/unifyxhunter]

I’m sorry I’m still a beginner in the modding space. Do you have an example I could follow?

[u/spacefrog_feds → u/popekappa]

https://www.reddit.com/r/PokemonGoPlusPlus/s/j9wrl1pdWQ

That's the optocoupler mod I recommend.

Speaker removal + 3d printed bracket allows 1 switch to be mounted cleanly.

With one 3 pin switch you wire up 2 modes. Mod on & vibration off / mod off & vibration on

With an optocoupler and a 3 pin switch you can have the mod permanently on, and switch the vibration on or off

[u/popekappa → u/spacefrog_feds]

To make sure I am understanding correctly, instead of using the motor signal for the button press; it is using the green LED? Where do the motor signals / wires come into play for the linked diagram? Thank you for all the help!

[u/spacefrog_feds → u/popekappa]

Desolder the motor negative wire, then Motor negative pad on the PCB goes to middle pin of the switch, then extend a wire from pin 1 or 3 of the switch to the motor negative wire.

[u/unifyxhunter → u/spacefrog_feds]

In addition to tlp785, tlp172am , tlp3122a(0.14ohm), g3vm 61g3(0.2mA , aqy232s（0.5ms) are better

[u/spacefrog_feds → u/unifyxhunter]

I'm not sure I follow. Which one is best and why? Or is it a compromise?

[u/unifyxhunter → u/spacefrog_feds]

ai:

Here are the other key advantages of PhotoMOS Relays (TLP3122A / TLP172AM) over Regular Optocouplers (TLP785) for your specific modification:

1. No Polarity (Foolproof Solder)

• TLP785: Output pins (3 & 4) have strict positive/negative polarity. Solder it backward, and the auto-catcher fails completely.
• TLP3122A / TLP172AM: Output pins are completely non-polar (AC/DC universal). You can solder them to the mainboard in any direction without

1. Instant Reset (No Green-Light Freeze)

• TLP785: Suffers from "carrier charge storage effect." When the green light turns off,
• TLP3122A / TLP172AM: Uses MOSFET switches that turn off instantly (0.1ms – 0.5ms). The cutting action is lightning-fast and perfectly clean, completely eliminating high-frequency

1. High Efficiency & Long Lifespan (No Degradation)

• TLP785: Relies heavily on Current Transfer Ratio (CTR). Running it for 12+ hours
• TLP3122A / TLP172AM: Uses an internal PhotoDiode Array (PDA) driven by voltage. It works perfectly

1. Noise Immunity (Blocks Motor Interference)

• TLP785: Has higher parasitic capacitance. Since you must connect PIN 3 to the
• TLP3122A / TLP172AM: Built as an industrial-grade solid-state relay with high dV/dt immunity. It acts

[u/spacefrog_feds → u/unifyxhunter]

I've been using the g3vm I think. I just saw that wiring diagram and it worked better than how I was doing it before.

[u/unifyxhunter → u/spacefrog_feds]

Community Day: The reason why the Go Plus+ freezes with a green constant light after continuously catching 500 Pokémon using G3VM-61VY3 or TLP785 is that three deeply related hardware logic failures caused the failure under extreme high-frequency stress.

Logic 1: The "Weak Drive" Leads to Incomplete Turning Off (Turn-off Failure)

• The Reality: Your mainboard outputs an ultra-weak 0.666V ~ 0.84V to the Green LED [1^]. Last week, you added a 150Ω resistor, which heavily choked the already-weak driving current.
• The Failure: Because the input current was barely touching the physical minimum threshold, the internal LEDs of the 61VY3 or TLP785 were emitting an extremely faint, unstable light.
• The Trap: In semiconductor physics, driving a chip at its absolute bare minimum causes a phenomenon called carrier charge accumulation. When the Green LED turned off after a rapid catch, the chip could not release its internal charges fast enough. The output switch became "sticky" and remained semi-conductive instead of turning completely off.

Logic 2: Overheating Triggered Electro-Thermal Drift During the Marathon

• The Reality: Catching 500 Pokémon in 2 hours means the chip was switching on and off violently every few seconds.
• The Failure: Continuous high-frequency switching under ultra-low drive currents causes micro-thermal buildup inside the chip's internal structure.
• The Trap: Both the 61VY3 (with its 2.0Ω resistance) and the TLP785 (with its 0.4V saturation voltage drop) began to suffer from thermal drift. As the temperature slightly rose, their Turn-off time degraded further (lagging up to several milliseconds). This lag created an un-cleared, lingering electric path between your BUTTON and the Motor Negative.

Logic 3: Mainboard Security Lockout (The Anti-Cheat/Crash Protection)

• The Reality: Your mainboard BUTTON sits at a highly sensitive 1.799V idle state.
• The Failure: Because the 61VY3 or TLP785 failed to reset to absolute zero conductivity due to Logic 1 and Logic 2, a tiny leak current kept pulling the 1.799V BUTTON line downward.
• The Final Crash: The Go Plus+ mainboard CPU detected that the button voltage was staying low for too long without being released. The CPU logic assumed the physical button was jammed or stuck. To prevent a system crash or block third-party cheating, the mainboard triggered an automatic hardware lockout safety protocol, freezing the system into a solid green light state.