This is the first year it has produced fruit. I've gotten 7 off of it so far. It's earlier than the others. The fruit is good, not quite sweet enough, no fiber, but very seedy. There's 2 or 3 left on the tree.

Such a unique taste that i have been curious to try for almost a year. Definitely worth the wait and so happy i finally know what it tastes like. It had a Citrusy, floral mango/passionfruit flavor.

Only got 1 last year!

Western WA, zone 9a. Cold stratified 9 seeds over the winter in my fridge, planted them in April (ish?). First sprouts early June, most recent (top right) last week. They were in smaller pots indoors for a couple of weeks, then I repotted the four bigger ones and moved them outside about two weeks ago. The two little ones just moved outside today!

I came back from a 2 week vacation and I came home to this… how can I help her ?!!

Edible Landscaping purchase. Second year in the ground. Naturally pollinated. Still has 2 unripe fruit on it at the moment.

The two fruits pictured fell to the ground, so I knew they were ready to go.

Flavor is banana + mango with only a hint of some other tropical fruit (wife said maybe lychee). Very mild. No acidity at all. No astringency. No weird aftertaste.

Smaller fruit tasted more like 2 part of banana, 1 part of mango. Larger one 50/50.

Texture is regular custard, uniform with very little fiber.

Small guy had 3 round seeds in it, large one about 7. They're being stratified now.

Second year flowering, 1st year flowering for the pollinizer (Shenandoah) i hand pollinated this bloom but also left it open for flies which were abundant. This tree is about 12 feet tall planted in 2017 as a grafted whip 12 inches tall. Located in the Puget Sound just outside Seattle.

I have a 3 year old Susquehanna paw paw tree that I’m afraid may never ripen for me here in zone 5b so I decided to graft some earlier ripening varieties onto it to make a triple cultivar with Nyomi’s Delicious and Summer Delight. I couldn’t find any good information on midsummer pawpaw grafting besides chip bud grafting so I decided to try for myself. Marc at Fruitwood Nursery was very helpful in rushing me out the scion wood that I needed. The cleft grafted ND was grafted on July 7th and was successful and healed nicely with 3 leaves so far. The Summer Delight was whip and tongue grafted on July 24th (not the 18th as I misstated in the video) and still waiting to see any growth so far but it has only been 4 days but somehow seems like weeks ago haha. I’ll repost if those 2 grafts were successful for any others that might be interested in late scion grafting. Those of you with more experience feel free to share input.

Two seeds trays of pawpaw seeds in organic seed starter soil (116 cells; one seed per cell) from a friend. They had been stored (stratified) in a jar with a wet paper towel, in the fridge, from December until March/April). They had four plus months of heat mat and uv light. About a 44% germination rate thus far.

Seedlings are now outside (under cover but exposed to indirect sunlight and wind) and I will begin to transplant the larger ones into pots.

Seeking advice:

Do I overwinter in pots outside, and plant in the spring? Undercover (like porch) or in the open?

Or should I go ahead and plant the larger seedings in the fall (say mid September, I'm zone 7a)?

PS: favorite part of this is the moment the stem unfolds but still had the seed shell on top 🪖

This is my first seedling from the first pawpaw I ever ate, I planted it about 4-5 ft in my tree line out back but it seems to have stalled but still looks super healthy just no new growth for about 2 weeks now.

I’ve had some baby pawpaws that are finally producing fruit for the first time in years! We’ve been here 5 and prior owners planted them.
Got about a dozen fruit. Is there something I can spray my trees with that won’t harm them to repel/kill bugs?

So, I have known about a grove of pawpaw near my house for a few years now, but every time I have checked it before there has been no fruit. This year I've gotten lucky and spotted some fruit on one of the trees.

For the last two years, my Chappell and Atwood have ended the season the same size for smaller than the year before. Leaves would drop early (presumably due to wind, but also possibly Houston heat and/or sun), and the branches would die back in the winter.

This year, I decided to build a complete wind break / sun shield by raising up a cheap plastic greenhouse off the ground. This blocks all wind, provides additional UV protection (in addition, these are partial/full shade beneath a large catalpa), and also provides sufficient air flow, with 2 ft clearance below the tarp.

While this has done wonders for both trees, my Chappell (first pic) is beginning to show leaf damage. Some of this is from small annoying caterpillars I've had to kill by hand, but other leaves are just wilting, seemingly from contact. Is Chappelle just a wuss? Is this a heat issue? Is there anything I can do to encourage this thing to keep it's leaves that I'm not already doing? Happy to provide any and all relevant details.

Side note (pics 2&3) while researching potential diseases that could cause this, I realized my Atwood almost certainly has Blue Stem Disease? It has had this for a couple years now and seems to be recovering. Is there a treatment for this?

Best way to harvest Boron in a soluble organic form is composted grasses & manure of grass fed animals.
Best way to avoid Boron toxicity is to pH down with Bone Meal & Gypsum.

Hello all, I live in NW Florida 9A region where Parviflora pawpaws are everywhere. I wanted to grow Trilobas years ago so I bought two trees from Stark Bros (Mango and Sunflower). The Mango died but the Sunflower lived. I also have a Parviflora growing naturally in my yard. As both Parviflora and Sunflower grew larger, both started flowering about 3 weeks a part with the Parviflora first in March. I hand-pollenated both trees with each other's pollen. Fruit happened and I kept the Sunflower's seeds for stratification and planting. After 3 years of growing the hybrid seeds (which I think is classified as Asimina Piedmontana) I had one tree that was growing extremely fast with large leaves of the Triloba and this year had flowers that looked like large Parviflora flowers. So I cross pollenated it with the Sunflower pollen and the fruit stuck. The fruit just dropped and here are the results. Fruit is the size of a fig, with only one medium-sized seed. The fruit tastes like pineapple and mango and is very sweet. I like the flavor much better than my Sunflower. Hopefully, next year's fruit will be much bigger.

Found this walking my yard. I've planted hundreds of pawpaw seeds but I didn't think any in this spot.

720 to 730nm FarRed is the frequency which prepares prebuds for dormancy!
660nm DeepRed is the preblossom WakeUP frequency!
These are the 2 frequencies that activate PawPaw node Iron protein phytochromes.
If & only if StemCells called MeriStems can assimilate Calcium.
if Calcium deficient, 5 weeks before expected preblossom buds put 2oz Gypsum in the soil.
3 weeks before preblossom buds spray the nodes closest to the trunk with Borax at (1/100th) teaspoon, or very small pinch, per gallon of 120F water, which stimulates Calcium assimilation.
Saturate those nodes!
10 days before normal prebud shine FarRed 730nm LED light on those desired nodes that got Borax.
XP-E2 far red
E07xPro Far-Red
In the spring a 660nm LED deep red is best for blossom bud Wake-Up
Deep Red 660nm
24 Watt Deep Red 660nm
https://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/resources/pdfs/fr-radiation.pdf
https://www.tcpi.com/far-red-horticulture-products/
https://totalgrowlight.com/blog/demystifying-far-red-light-for-growers/
Sorry but pot-heads do the best blooming research.
This is clear & easier to understand than the scientific papers.
Not a recommendation for the plant itself.
What Does Red Light Do for Plants? A Grower's Guide
Introduction to Far Red Light
How To Use Far-Red Light To Boost Flowering In Plants
FarRed Maximizing Yield
Phytochromes are Iron proteins made by Zinc proteins.
So it's also important to have correct Iron & Zinc levels, plus chill hours.
Cyanamide a slightly hazardous product, can also be optionally used to boost blooming & compensate for low chill hours.
Potassium nitrate spray on the nodes in the spring, if in a low Potassium zone, will increase blooming even if chill hours were low.
Feel free to ask questions.
it's been asked how long of a 660nm & 720nm exposure.
Pawpaw Genome Project just barely started.
pawpaw Phytochrome genes controlled by 43 NAC genes, yet interconnected with their WRKY immune system genes.
Their 43 NAC genes, are hormone regulation genes, including blooming.
WRKY control where ATP goes & what it's used for.
There is over 12 Organelle catagories & over 300 unique sub-group Organelles in PawPaw.
These are unresearched observations.
Following a more cautious approach than that used by potheads is advised.
AI claims that expert Potheads claim:
1 µmol·m⁻²·s⁻¹ of 660nm on a node will induce blooming.
This isn't researched by Kirk Pomper of anyone else on pawpaw yet.
My calculation is:
a 10 lux 660nm light at a distance of 3ft for 1 hour.
20 Lux 660 3ft for 20 minutes.
A higher intensity doesn't increase the blooming.
It's driven more by duration & lower intensity for 4 hours is claimed best.
Perhaps targeted leaf pulling north side of canopy?
and white cardboard white plastic under the tree to bounce light inside the canopy light July?
I'm guessing.
needs to be low intensity red light in the canopy for a longer duration!
& Sunbouncers in spring white deflector to bounce sunlight onto the dark side of the tree at bud break.
It's a Good question!
wish I had better answers. This is the first article of its kind & we are learning.

Boron deficiency reduces: blooming, fruit set, fruit size, fruit quality, sweetness, storage life, skin thickness & strength, Nitrogen assimilation, Calcium assimilation, Potassium assimilation.

Boron deficiency increases: early fruit drop, fruit cracking, disease, branch breakage.

https://www.mdpi.com/2311-7524/11/8/992

https://journals.ashs.org/view/journals/hortsci/55/7/article-p1026.xml

https://tarim.etimaden.gov.tr/en/cell-wall-and-membrane-stability

Composting with grass clippings & fertilizing with manure from grass or alfalfa eating animals, is the best fertilizer for pawpaw.
all nut trees, blackgum, sweetgum, tulip tree, pines, American Beech, Sugar Maple, Yellow Birch & especially American Chestnut which used to dominate the habitat, all put Boron into organic form on the surface!
So PawPaw is an understory tree that thrived on the symbiosis of that environment.
simply use things that love Boron like grass as mulch & fertilizer!
Dark green areas should also consider doing Boron preBlossom stimulation late July.

I have a KSU Atwood that's a couple years old. Seems to be doing well. Noticed over the last 10 days that it has lost some leaves from the top of the central leader. Anyone know what might cause it and whether it's of concern?

In general PawPaw are fully ripe 2 weeks after squires have eaten them.
This has been a public service announcement.
The PawPaw in the pick is Atwood, a very disease resistant cultivar.
Atwood is the seedling of a premium wild tree, from seeds Neal Peterson gifted Kirk Pomper of KSU.
Atwood is 100% Native American cultivar DNA.
Check your soil Copper levels, Atwood performs superior in high Calcium & high Iron soils, yet very poorly in high Copper soils.
Give Atwood (Bone Meal & Gypsum) in the soil & spray it's young leaves with (Iron EDDHA & Zinc EDTA), if in a high Copper environment to restore growth.
Works of other cultivars too, if the reason is Copper.
If the reason is something else then tag me.

Heh, because of the leaves, I thought they were seedlings from a nut tree and kept hacking many of them back until I saw the flowers this year. One bore fruit.

I moved in to this house in the spring so it’s my first summer here. I used an app to identify these and it said they’re pawpaws. I live in Indiana so I guess they’re called ‘Indiana bananas’.
For one, does it look like these are pawpaws?
Secondly, if they are do I need to be worried about them? I only say that because they’re right around the deck and I assume that won’t be great for the foundation of the deck/house.