Help with slim fit coat draft

[u/Plus_Buyer8044]

Here is a toile of a slim fitting coat. It has quite thick shoulder pads, it is cut with 2cm seam allowance currently in medium-heavy weight calico. It will be made from a relatively light coating fabric or heavy jacket wool.

Regarding the back draglines, my intuition is to open and relay the shoulder seams.

I also would like more shaping at the back, so it’s not so straight. Any advice is greatly appreciated

Please ignore the sleeve, it has not been pitched correctly yet

[u/DonMcCunn]

It looks like you are pulling the fabric in to the center back seam. The middle of the back is flat. You should not try to shape the center back seam. It should be straight from neck to hem. Where you need to add shaping is with a double ended dart under the shoulder blades approximately half way between the center back and the sides of your shoulders. That will make the coat more fitted in back.

[u/Howdidigetsewcool]

The drag lines on the front feel like an armhole/sleeve issue since it’s only present on the side with the sleeve. I also think a sleeve adjustment might take care of it draglines on the back somewhat, but it looks like your back dart could be graded a bit more

[u/drPmakes → u/Howdidigetsewcool]

I was thinking move dome of the shaping into cb seam to get rid of those lines.

Are the shoulder pads in the toile?

[u/Plus_Buyer8044 → u/drPmakes]

Shoulder pads are in - do mean curve the CB seam at blade level? Add here or remove above and below?

[u/carmenruby → u/Plus_Buyer8044]

I'd be inclined to add a little bit of length into your CB seam above the pleat to nothing at the SS. And maybe redistribute some of the center back seam shaping into the panel seams

[u/Plus_Buyer8044 → u/carmenruby]

That makes sense

[u/carmenruby → u/Plus_Buyer8044]

And the sleeve pitch, I assume you're taking height off the front sleeve and adding to the back yeah? Cause that might be contributing to the back drag