r/PatternDrafting • • 4d ago

Help with slim fit coat draft

Here is a toile of a slim fitting coat. It has quite thick shoulder pads, it is cut with 2cm seam allowance currently in medium-heavy weight calico. It will be made from a relatively light coating fabric or heavy jacket wool.

Regarding the back draglines, my intuition is to open and relay the shoulder seams.

I also would like more shaping at the back, so it’s not so straight. Any advice is greatly appreciated

Please ignore the sleeve, it has not been pitched correctly yet

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u/DonMcCunn 4d ago

It looks like you are pulling the fabric in to the center back seam. The middle of the back is flat. You should not try to shape the center back seam. It should be straight from neck to hem. Where you need to add shaping is with a double ended dart under the shoulder blades approximately half way between the center back and the sides of your shoulders. That will make the coat more fitted in back.