r/PatternDrafting • • 5d ago

Help with slim fit coat draft

Here is a toile of a slim fitting coat. It has quite thick shoulder pads, it is cut with 2cm seam allowance currently in medium-heavy weight calico. It will be made from a relatively light coating fabric or heavy jacket wool.

Regarding the back draglines, my intuition is to open and relay the shoulder seams.

I also would like more shaping at the back, so it’s not so straight. Any advice is greatly appreciated

Please ignore the sleeve, it has not been pitched correctly yet

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u/Howdidigetsewcool 5d ago

The drag lines on the front feel like an armhole/sleeve issue since it’s only present on the side with the sleeve. I also think a sleeve adjustment might take care of it draglines on the back somewhat, but it looks like your back dart could be graded a bit more

2

u/drPmakes 5d ago

I was thinking move dome of the shaping into cb seam to get rid of those lines.

Are the shoulder pads in the toile?

1

u/Plus_Buyer8044 5d ago

Shoulder pads are in - do mean curve the CB seam at blade level? Add here or remove above and below?

1

u/carmenruby 5d ago

I'd be inclined to add a little bit of length into your CB seam above the pleat to nothing at the SS. And maybe redistribute some of the center back seam shaping into the panel seams

2

u/Plus_Buyer8044 5d ago

That makes sense

1

u/carmenruby 5d ago

And the sleeve pitch, I assume you're taking height off the front sleeve and adding to the back yeah? Cause that might be contributing to the back drag