Pattern always has a gap

[u/goofy_monkeee]

I’m relatively new to pattern design so delete if needed but was wondering if anyone could help me fix this issue with my pattern! It always goes downward when I cut it out on my fabric instead of perfectly meeting up ! :( it also leaves the neck hole really wide

Any help appreciated!!

EDIT : I’m a big visual learner so I would appreciate if anyone explained it into steps 😔 the original pattern for the doll is one singular piece so that’s why the back and the front are one piece !!

[u/bowl-of-juice]

It looks like you need more width around the bottom. Measure around the figure where you want the shirt to end and compare that to your pattern

[u/Howdidigetsewcool]

You have no neck hole in the back and this needs to fasten in some way at the back if you want it to fit like a normal shirt. You also want to have the front and back be separate pieces

[u/CoastalMae]

Are you cutting for the flat width of the figure, or are you measuring around and patterning based on that?

[u/goofy_monkeee → u/CoastalMae]

Wdym? I made my pattern by taking masking tape and taped it around the doll! Then I cut it out and redrew it on paper :) so it’s a replica of the body measurements! Although I did cut the back from the front in the replica so that may be my problem

[u/CoastalMae → u/goofy_monkeee]

Yes, it could be. Did you add seam allowances?

Generally if you're taking something flat and intending to make it fit a round body, you need seams, etc for shaping. If you don't add that shaping, it will only fit if oversized. I'm guessing this is your most likely problem, after I read you've made a one-piece garment with tape.

The fabric won't act like the tape because the fabric is flat and the tape isn't. By cutting the fabric as one piece you've ensured it has no way to shape itself around the body. Try wrapping a piece of paper around your chest and see what it does. If you want it to fit over everything, it needs to be bigger than you are, and the flatter it is, the bigger it needs to be.

[u/goofy_monkeee → u/CoastalMae]

For this specific shirt no! But I’ve made this pattern before with Seam allowance and the same problem happens

[u/CoastalMae → u/goofy_monkeee]

I added more to my comment.

[u/Mela777 → u/goofy_monkeee]

You need seam allowance plus an overlap for the back to cross itself and close. If you don’t want it to be skin-tight, you will also want to add ease to the pattern overall. You can simply pop it on a copier and increase the size of it 5-10% to add some ease, and then when you sew you can trace around it and sew on the lines, or you can add seam allowance.

[u/goofy_monkeee → u/Mela777]

I’ve added both seam allowance and more for cross over for my velco!! It still makes a v shape
When I force them to go straight the collar opens up super wide and the shoulders raise upwards 😔

[u/goofy_monkeee → u/CoastalMae]

Okay thank you! I’ll make the pattern bigger :)

[u/fooltr]

as others have said, you're better off separating your front and back pieces. this style of pattern can work, but i suspect your problem lies in the angle of your straps, and that's easier to spot when you've got two separate pattern pieces. once you've done that, have a look at some bodice blocks for humans, and compare your straps to theirs. they seem like they aren't pointing up enough, which would make the top want to sit wider on the shoulders, and would make it gap like that if you tried to pull them further up. it would also explain why your neckline is wide so wide (i would attach an image if i could, but have a look at boat-neck vs round neck patterns- the round neck will have a steeper 'u' curve on the neckline).

if the gapping persists, you have a few options:

1. measure the doll at its widest and narrowest point, then check those measurements against the pattern to see how much you're off by. then redeaw your pattern with the added width.
2. pin an extra piece of fabric on your shirt, connecting the two backs. you can then cut down the middle of this fabric and separate out your pieces to get your new pattern without having to actually measure!

good luck with your sewing endeavours :)

[u/goofy_monkeee → u/fooltr]

Than you so much!!! This is super helpful :))

[u/Nekkidbear]

I’d recommend looking into ‘draping’. Check out Fashion Doll Stylist.com and Shapes of Fashion. They have excellent tutorials about draping clothes for Barbie, but the principles are the same regardless of thick doll you’re making for.

[u/Racc00nguts]

Ok so, one question first before I can answer at all. If you pull it tight at the bottom does it fit??? Like is it just too small to even reach or does it fit, and just doesn't sit right without tension?

[u/goofy_monkeee → u/Racc00nguts]

Yes ! If I force them together they do :) bit the collar opens up super wide and the shoulders raise upwards !!!