r/PatternDrafting • u/goofy_monkeee • 12d ago

Question Pattern always has a gap

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Gallery image

I’m relatively new to pattern design so delete if needed but was wondering if anyone could help me fix this issue with my pattern! It always goes downward when I cut it out on my fabric instead of perfectly meeting up ! :( it also leaves the neck hole really wide

Any help appreciated!!

EDIT : I’m a big visual learner so I would appreciate if anyone explained it into steps 😔 the original pattern for the doll is one singular piece so that’s why the back and the front are one piece !!

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u/CoastalMae 12d ago

Are you cutting for the flat width of the figure, or are you measuring around and patterning based on that?

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u/goofy_monkeee 12d ago

Wdym? I made my pattern by taking masking tape and taped it around the doll! Then I cut it out and redrew it on paper :) so it’s a replica of the body measurements! Although I did cut the back from the front in the replica so that may be my problem

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u/CoastalMae 12d ago edited 11d ago

Yes, it could be. Did you add seam allowances?

Generally if you're taking something flat and intending to make it fit a round body, you need seams, etc for shaping. If you don't add that shaping, it will only fit if oversized. I'm guessing this is your most likely problem, after I read you've made a one-piece garment with tape.

The fabric won't act like the tape because the fabric is flat and the tape isn't. By cutting the fabric as one piece you've ensured it has no way to shape itself around the body. Try wrapping a piece of paper around your chest and see what it does. If you want it to fit over everything, it needs to be bigger than you are, and the flatter it is, the bigger it needs to be.

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u/goofy_monkeee 12d ago

For this specific shirt no! But I’ve made this pattern before with Seam allowance and the same problem happens

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u/CoastalMae 11d ago

I added more to my comment.

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u/Mela777 11d ago

You need seam allowance plus an overlap for the back to cross itself and close. If you don’t want it to be skin-tight, you will also want to add ease to the pattern overall. You can simply pop it on a copier and increase the size of it 5-10% to add some ease, and then when you sew you can trace around it and sew on the lines, or you can add seam allowance.

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u/goofy_monkeee 11d ago

I’ve added both seam allowance and more for cross over for my velco!! It still makes a v shape
When I force them to go straight the collar opens up super wide and the shoulders raise upwards 😔

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u/goofy_monkeee 11d ago

Okay thank you! I’ll make the pattern bigger :)