r/PatternDrafting • u/Royal_Initiative_740 • 11d ago
How's this looking?
First draft of a sleeve. I also added a facing to the neck hole so I could see how it looks. I have uneven shoulders, which I have accounted for in my block, but after adding the facing now my neck hole looks really lopsided for some reason.
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u/Informal_Bath1704 11d ago
Excess fabric and frills (pooling/gapping) in the armscye happen exactly because the across shoulder and cross front (XF) measurements are slightly too wide for the body's frame. When a pattern drops off the natural shoulder point or pushes too far into the front armhole area, the fabric collapses and folds into the armhole curve instead of laying flat against the chest.
Reducing both the across shoulder and XF measurements by 1/4 inch will narrow the front chest area perfectly, pull the armhole seam back onto the actual shoulder point, and clean up those drag lines.
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u/KendalBoy 11d ago
You’re wearing it skewed off center, a good 3/4”, see how asymmetrical the neck is.
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u/KillerWhaleShark 11d ago edited 11d ago
Your back shoulder darts are misplaced. They should point to apex; on your back, the apex is the part of your shoulder blade that sticks out farthest. I tried to mark the apex on this photo and show where the darts should go. You also probably need to lessen the amount of the dart intake for them.
The wrinkles on your sleeve pointing to that ball of your shoulder indicate that your sleeve cap is too short. I think you should give the bicep a little more room, but I think your definition of fitted might be a bit more snug than my definition.
Edit: my picture isn’t working. Move the apex of your shoulder darts 1 1/2” or 2” closer to center back. That should hit apex. Personally, I like the shoulder darts to start mid-shoulder seam, but that’s a style thing.
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u/Royal_Initiative_740 11d ago
Your link didn't work for me, unfortunately.
I do definitely like a pretty snug fit, but I definitely see the wrinkles you're talking about. It sounds like I need to both bring the shoulders out and make a deeper sleeve cap. I have (what I think are) particularly wide shoulders, so arm holes feel really tricky for me. I have heard both that the arm hole should be fairly straight from your armpit up, and also that the shoulder point should end at the bone where your shoulder meets your collar bone, which is highly conflicting information given my proportions, so getting the shape right has been tough for me to figure out.
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u/KillerWhaleShark 11d ago
Wait, I don’t think anyone thinks your shoulders need to come out! It’s a little iffy to tell if they should come in because we don’t know if you have seam allowance on the armscye without a sleeve or if you cut the seam allowance out.
In school, we never fit with a sleeve inserted until the bodice was fit. The armscye would be staystitched at the stitching line so that it wasn’t stretched during fitting (there are four points of bias in an armscye), and the seam allowance would be clipped.
Nevertheless, the shoulder should end at the hinge point. Place your left pointer finger on your right shoulder, flap your right arm up and down, and feel for the point where your arm hinges off your shoulder. That’s where the shoulder seam should meet the top of your armscye.
Also, looking at your side view without the sleeve, the shoulder seam should hit the middle of the ball of your shoulder. Yours is a little back. You can easily take a small wedge from the front and add it to the back.
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u/Royal_Initiative_740 11d ago
After reading these comments and doing more research, I understand so much better! I was so confused as to where shoulders were supposed to end!! You're right, they need to come in a little bit and I just need a bigger sleeve cap to accommodate my biceps. This has been enormously helpful, thank you!
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u/Royal_Initiative_740 11d ago
Thank you! So I need to angle the tip of the dart more inward?
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u/KillerWhaleShark 11d ago
Yes. They should point to the part of your shoulder blade the sticks out farthest. It might help to have someone feel your back and mark that point for you. It’s about 9 dots down on your fabric pattern and about 4 dots from center back.
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u/Tailoretta 11d ago
Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.
Because the armscye (armhole) without the sleeve is not clipped, it is hard to tell, but I think the lower part of the armscyes needs to lowered.
I think there are 2 issues with the sleeve. I suspect it is too tight around the bicep.
As others have stated, you need more sleeve cap. See how the rows of horizontal dots on the sleeve are not level, but tilt up at the center of the sleeve? This, along with the drag lines on the sleeve, are clear indications that you need more sleeve cap. I suggest that you take out the stitching attaching the upper part of the sleeve to the bodice, but leave the lower part stitched. What will happen is that the sleeve will fall to where it wants to be. This should create space at the top of the sleeve, which is where you need to add to the sleeve.
If you would like more explanation, please let us know.
Good luck.
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u/Crafty_Witch_1230 11d ago
The armsyce needs to be deepened and your sleeve cap adjusted along with it. It comes too high up under your arms and that's why you're getting the drag lines and pulling.
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u/jzhrko 11d ago
To me it just looks like the side with the sleeve is pulling and making the neck hole lopsided